Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Camry AC Questions



  • mv52mv52 Posts: 4
    Yesterday, after driving about 10 miles on the highway (long enough for the AC to cool down), I noticed that the AC air blowing out of the front center-right vent (next to the center console) and front right side vent (next to the right front door) was blowing at the normal chilled AC temp of 38 degrees, BUT the air blowing out of the front center-left vent (next to the center console) and the front left side vent (next to the left front door) was luke warm (65 degrees). The two rear passenger vents (located between the lower backs of the two front seats) were also blowing luke warm air. Normally (for the past 6 years), all vents have blown chilled air of 38 degrees.

    There are no controls for separate right and left passenger temperature and there are no separate air temperature and fan speed control knobs. You set the desired cabin temperature with a climate control thermostat (like a home thermostat). The climate control seems to be working okay with regard to the air blowing out of the left-center and right side vents.

    Any ideas on what the problem may be and how to fix it, short of taking the car to the dealer? Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I'd suggest watching it for a bit to try to find additional failing symptoms. You really don't have a lot to go on, at this point.

    There are quite a bit of pieces to this control. There is a computer that manages this, which is also connected to the main engine computer. There are sensors like: thermister, room temp sensor, solar sensor, and outside ambient temp sensor. There are also a number of servo motors (think of an automated electrical door), controlled by the computer, to adjust air inlet, air mix, air vent,etc.

    I might originally suspect the air vent servo (air vent opened when it shouldn't have), but with only one failing condition at this point....I'd suggest monitoring it closely to see if you can identify different symptoms.

    Good luck.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    While you do not have "buttons" to select separate right/left control the climate control in your vehicle may be so equipped. I would suggest disconnecting the battery for ten or 15 minutes then cycling the system through all end points, max/min temperature, airflow routing, defrost/defog/demist mode, etc.

    Oh, you might try covering the solar radiation sensors with some object to see if that's what's modifying the right/left cooling. The fact that you cannot select separate right/left cooling effects does not mean the system cannot do it automatically.
  • mv52mv52 Posts: 4
    Thanks for your reply.

    When I turn the thermostat up (higher temp.), all vents open and close correctly and the warmed air temp. from all vents is 130 degrees--which is right on the mark. So it looks more like an AC problem. One of the first things I plan on checking is the refrigerant level.
  • mv52mv52 Posts: 4
    Just got back from a friend's garage. We saw through the refrigerant window that it was low on refrigerant. He topped it off and now all vents are blowing nice cool 38-40 degree air.

    My friend said that he has seen the same left vent hot air--right vent cool air problem on 2 BMW's, 1 Toyota, and 1 Bronco this year-and all were low on refrigerant. Intuitively, one would think it's a vent damper problem if 2 of 6 vents are blowing ice cold air and the other 4 vents are blowing warm air. Interesting, isn't it?
  • araenelaraenel Posts: 1
    Hi all. I have an 03 Camry XLE, which has been making strange sounds from the passenger side vents whenever I turn left, moreso if I'm braking harder/turning harder. At first this only happened when I had the A/C on. Now it happens when I have the fan on without the A/C going too.

    It is leaking on the floor underneath the passenger side glove compartment. At first it was a drop or two. Now more.

    Any thoughts/help?'

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Unclog the drain on the A/C, sounds clogged and hence is sloshing and draining inside the compartment as opposed to outside the firewall and under the vehicle. Every vehicle drips condensation, that is what you see dripping down under vehicles on hot humid days.

    Also check that the area under the windshield is free of debris and drains properly.
  • What if you are getting soaked carpets, especially driver's side. What could cause that. Ever hear of Camry Hybrids having this problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check for clogged sunroof drains if you have a sunroof, check the drains in the bottom of your doors (open the door up, look on the inside, down at the bottom).
  • I have a new 2010 Camry for (2) weeks now. The A/C air temp is not as cold as any of the cars I have owned in the past. On a 85 degree day I am having to run the fan at 2/3 speed just to keep the car tolerable.

    Taking it into the dealer this morning and will post what the outcome is.
  • grams1grams1 Posts: 1
    I have a brand new 2010 Toyota Camry XLE. I am experiencing all 4 floor mats leaking. Have been told that it is coming from the blocked tubes from the condenser off of the AC. I have also been told it cannot be repaired. Have had it in once to have the tubes cleared. Was told that it is a design flaw. Anyone else with this problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Hogwash, take it back to the dealer, ask that the service manager review your case. If you have to after the 2nd repair, open a case with Toyota help desk and ask that a Regional Toyota rep look at it while it is at the dealership.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,680
    Yes, total hogwash. My 2010 does not have this problem, my '07 does not either, and your problem is the first I have heard. If your dealer continues to be unresponsive, call Toyota. Sounds like something was wrong from the start (factory assembly error, I would bet.)
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Leaking or reeking..??

    Foul dirty gym socks odor due to mould/mildew formation within the A/C plenum would justify the dealer's statement.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,680
    There was a TSB released not long ago for people who have problems with a mildew smell. I read about it on another website.
  • clarkphxclarkphx Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2003 Toyota Camry XLE (35K miles). Occasionally, the A/C light begins blinking, at which time only hot air is emitted thru the vents. I live in Phoenix! Any ideas what is the problem & how to fix? One garage has said it is an electrical problem. They supposedly recalibrated a "sensor" or something, but now the problem has returned. I'm going on a road trip, so need the A/C.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    From your owners manual..........

    If the “A/C” button indicator flashes, there
    is a problem in the air conditioning system
    and the air conditioning automatically
    shuts off. If this happens, take your vehicle
    to a Toyota dealer for service.

    You may want to try a more experienced garage...........
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited July 2010
    Most common problem is that the compressor is not turning cognizant with engine RPM....

    Compressor clutch relay failed, failing, belt or compressor clutch slipping...

    Drove through puddles/rain...??
  • I have an 05 camry and had same leaking. Pulled up the floor mat on passenger side and find the drain tube connected to compressor. Is next to center console. Have shop vac ready and just pull off hose. Water will come out if clogged. Tube is only about 6inches long. Poke thru it with something. I found a small plastic ball. Not sure if part of AC or not but was blocking tube. Now just need to dry out under both sides as the sponge like material under carpet has a lot of water. Replace tube and should be fine if that's the issue.
  • When I turned on my car this morning, the AC was set to the 2nd of 4 levels. Suddenly I heard a low pop and then the AC stopped working. I shut it and tried it again, nothing. I tried all levels and only the high setting worked. Same with the fan and heat, only get wind blowing on the highest level.

    Could this be as simple as needing a fan blower resistor? Or does the motor also need to be replaced? Or any other ideas?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Suspect blower resistor.

    There's a 4 prong connector, pull that apart and measure the resistance between pins on the resistor.

    This will be a little hard to explain, but the plug is oblong. Holding it so that the length is horizontal, on one side you'll have pins 1 and 3, and on the other side you'll have pins 2 and 4.

    measuring the resistance from 1 to 3, it should be 1.74 ohms.
    measuring the resistance from 2 to 4, it should be .38 ohms
    and if you are able to figure out which pins are 2 and 3 (cadicorner diagonal pins), it should be 1.12 ohms.

    If you don't get those resistances, replace the blower resistor.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Posts: 293
    edited July 2010
    Need some advice please on whether to trust what the dealer is telling me..

    2003 XLE V6 with 94K. Over a couple of years the auto A/C had not been switching correctly between air and heat during the transition period to spring in March (we live in SC). It just would not heat when the outside temp. was in the 60's (yes the wife requires it). The first time we asked at the dealers they said something like it was designed like that (as if the car decided when we needed heat). Anyway this spring, it just would not heat, even when set on max heat, this time we were told it was due to a 'thermo regulator valve' or the mechanism that operated the valve that let the heat in. The advisor said it would cost $290 and also 'aren't you glad it's not the whole unit which costs $820.

    When I took it in today I'm told it is the $820 part, he descibed it as the heater head. I have a feeling it encompasses the cheaper part that was first recommended. The advisor today tells me they were 'either wrong in the spring, or wrong now (can't believe he'd say that). Advice anyone, thanks..

    (The unit was set permanently on A/C this spring and cools fine.)
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Looked in the factory service manual for you (my words in ()).

    For the symptom Temp Contol - no warm air.....

    The sequence of items to check/repair/replace are:
    - Engine coolant volume ( there hot water that is flowing thru the system)
    - Air mix damper servo assembly (this is a doorman who moves a damper door. Like there is a refrigerator on one side, oven on the other. It moves the damper from one side to the other to choose how much hot or cold gets mixed together)
    - Cooler Thermistor #1 (monitors the temperature, sends info back to control assembly)
    - A/C control assembly (the brains, and the damper)
    - Heater radiation sub-assembly (a little radiator, which takes the hot water and heats the air)
    - wiring harness
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Posts: 293
    edited July 2010
    Thanks for the quick reply kiawah. It looks like the first diagnosis we had in the spring was 'replace air mix damper servo assembly' and now we have moved on lower down the line to control assembly (my ticket says replace ac control head). Apparently this came from running a diagnosis. Could this be overkill, instead of just replacing the doorman they're doing the whole front entrance (so to speak).

    This has been giving intermittent trouble long before, but it was never written up or correctly diagnosed then.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    I do my own maintenance on all of our vehicles, but have never had to tear the dash apart in a Toyota (did my old Vette once, but that was a story in itself). If this was an extra car, where you had the luxery of time, you could take the dash apart and do a lot of diagnosing to find out exactly what small part was binding or not working correctly.

    Repair shops don't have the time, and you wouldn't want to pay their hourly rate either for them to do that. So they end up swapping out major FRU's (as we call them in the computer business - field replaceable units). You have a problem with your printer, you just swap the whole thing out, no matter how small the problem might have been.

    So they get your heating/ac diagnostics down to 4,5,6 major pieces that the techs can replace, and unfortunately those parts are larger conglomerates of many parts, so they can cost quite a bit. It also means less parts to handle, store, and inventory in the parts distribution channels.

    Dealerships/Repair shops have a tough job. Customers are sitting there waiting for the cars, mad that they are inconvenienced and have to even be there in the first place, and mad that they are going to pay what they feel are outrageous prices for labor and parts.

    So yes the parts are costly, but if they didn't fix it this way you'd have hours of labor instead that you'd have to pay for.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Posts: 293
    edited July 2010
    Thanks, last questions..., is the damper door a separately replaceable part? I remember the service people distinctly telling me in March that boy you better be glad we don't have to replace the whole unit just the damper. Some one else bought the dealership so the old crew is gone. I know how it works with electronics, but it seems like Toyota could have had the replaceable units down to smaller parts here rather than $1000 (which is what it will cost) piece. I was so glad I left the Ford days behind when I bought this and now I'm paying the same amount as I did on my Sable for A/C and it's not even the compressor. I'm going to have someone else look at it. Do you recommend that? Should I stick to a Toyota dealership or general A/C licensed tech?. Thanks again..
  • swanjswanj Posts: 1
    I have 07 camry LE with single climate control. With the A/C on you can tell a significant difference in temperture from the driver side and passenger side. The passenger side is really cold and works great but the driver side just puts out heat with no mixture of cold. i tried looking online for some manual to remove the dash so i can look back there and see if a valve is stuck or something but it makes no sense since i do not have dual climate control. i
  • mv52mv52 Posts: 4
    I've had the same problem on my '03 and '06 Camry, as well as other cars. Simple solution: it's low on refrigerant.
  • edchkedchk Posts: 1
    My air con suddenly act funny. The driver side is cold as normal but the passenger side was pumping warm air on a hot day.

    I was told it only have one heat exchange so if driver side have cold air then pump and others are working. My garage take it apart and cannot find what is wrong. Any suggestions?
  • adamw812adamw812 Posts: 32
    My 2008 Camry LE, has an offensive odor as if there is mold in/on the evaporator. The car is still under warranty, it has only 12,000 miles on it. Should I take it in and have them argue with me? Will they fix it without an issue? I have tried Ozium in the air intake at the base of the windshield and it is such a powerful odor of urine, the Ozium has a hard time combating it.
Sign In or Register to comment.