Toyota Camry AC Questions
I've had this problem for at least 1 year on my 2001 Camry with 30K miles on it now. I'm getting literally tired & sick of it. My 1990 Camry with 130K miles does NOT have this problem. It smells fine, even though its over 10 years older.
In the 2001 camry, the smell goes away, once I let the air run for a while(without recirculating it). We live in relatively dryer dallas/ft. worth.
anyone recommend a solution? Is it a "moldy evaporator"? My neighbor has 2 camrys both with over 45K miles on them(2001 and 2002) and he says he does not have this problem. So what gives here?
I'm "sick" of this new camry, almost thinking of selling it. Should not this be covered under the warranty? Please help.
thanks.
In the 2001 camry, the smell goes away, once I let the air run for a while(without recirculating it). We live in relatively dryer dallas/ft. worth.
anyone recommend a solution? Is it a "moldy evaporator"? My neighbor has 2 camrys both with over 45K miles on them(2001 and 2002) and he says he does not have this problem. So what gives here?
I'm "sick" of this new camry, almost thinking of selling it. Should not this be covered under the warranty? Please help.
thanks.
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Brent
#1 - get a piece of coat hanger wire or the like and send it up the drain tube to dislodge any obstruction. The drain tube is under the car behind and towards the center from the passenger's front tire.
#2 - if you have a shop vac, put the hose over the drain tube and suck out whatever is obstructing the drain. May need to jam in some shop rags to get a good seal.
Invest some time...save some $$$. Good luck.
I have a 1997 Camry LE with about 120000 miles on it. I have done pretty regular maintainence and oil changes on it. Recently I noticed that whevever I turn on the AC, engine makes more noise and while driving I can feel that pick up is affected if the AC is on. Now I know AC tends to load the engine but is this a bad sign. Is there a preventive action that I can take? I am going to change the oil in my car next week so I can include this too if there is something that you guys suggest. Thanks
There is something else off the topic that I want to know too. I just have a jack in my trunk and no other tools. I was wondering if there was any kit that I can keep in my car in case of emergencies. Thanks
2) have you look under the piece of board that sit on top of the spare? There should be a tool for you to remove the wheel nuts and wheel covers. I don't use that at all because it's so difficult to use that thing to losen the nuts. Instead, I got a impact wrench ($29), an air pump ($19), a travel kit (jumper cable, flash light, lighter)
I just purchased my Camry about 3 weeks ago and already had/have questions! Toyota Ken was nice enough to help me the first time and I wonder if he or other experts are still available?
I'm started to notice my Camry is leaving a pool (small) of water. I only notice this if I stop by home after work and then go out again. Usually I go to work and the car gets parked all day and then go home, so maybe it's doing it more often and I just didn't notice.
I use the A/C all the time because it's been so hot, could this puddle of water be condensation (as a co-worker suggested)? Or is it something I should worry about? Sorry to be so green about the whole thing, it's been so long since I've had a new car and my old one used to leak oil so I'm very wary of all leaks now!
Much Thanks!
As a recommendation in the future as well, anytime you have a leak you see under the car, place some newspaper or paper towel down where it's leaking. If there is only one leak, you'll be able to see what color it is (to tell what's leaking) and if there is more than one thing leaking, as it absorbs into the paper, the different fluids will separate as well so you can tell that too. If it's just water, it will evaporate so you'll know that too.
Hope this helps and certainly lets you breathe easier.
Ken
I will certainly try that driving home and place papers if I notice another leak. I hope that won't be for a looong time!
You are the BEST!!
Ken
They will both flow air (hot or cold) when the selection is set for both high and low air split.
You might check your owners manual for your 2005.
The XLE has dedicated vents in the rear of the console that do carry cooled air.
To get more a/c in the rear of the LE or SE, you have to increase the fan speed and direct the center vents to blow into the space between the two front seats.
Cooled air doesn't just sit on the floor when you are circulating air in a 102 ft3 space.
Short of going to a real knowledgeable specialist to get your system analyzed, you can measure the temperatures of the refrigerant lines using an infrared thermometer : Compressor outlet line, line after the condenser, return line.
You may have moisture in your system : Ice forms at the expansion valve, blocking the system until you stop it and it thaws. You may have a sticking expansion valve. You may also have lint on the radiator's face that reduces air flow - that usually reduces performance, but it is more of a gradual change than an on-off behavior.
If you don't have the required tools, ask your friends for a local technician who knows what he does. Otherwise, you may end up replacing many expensive parts.
Please tell me what to do.
Most likely electric fan(s) or thermostatic switch as/has failed.
Press again to return to outside air intake.
Last week my wife reported the AC not blowing cold and the AC button light blinking. I was just informed by my local Toyota dealer (to which I "had" to take it, according to both the owner's manual and the service tech where I first took it for diagnosis) that I need a new compressor and clutch to get my AC to work again. :mad:
Is this typical, or a problem Toyota had that year? Is there a TSB or "secret warranty" for this?
I am disappointed because this is my first Toyota, and I bought it over another Hyundai Sonata because of the perceived better reliability. Between this and the squawking steering column, it has not worked out very well.
Am I looking at any other "weak link" repairs before I hit 100,000 miles?!!
Thanks -- I appreciate any and all input!
Take it to an automotive A/C specialist for an educated opinion.
Or do you have the manual type (3 knobs) where you set the fan speed manually?
When you accelerate, for lack of a better term, it sends more "juice" or power throughout the vehicle.
I've noticed on many different cars that when you accelerate, and the rpm's go up, that the speed of the AC fans goes up to the maximum speed.
Thanks in advance!
Chris
Open that connection and the OAT would seemingly go below freezing. The A/C is totally disabled if the OAT is near or below freezing.
The second possibilty is the refrigerant pressure switch. On my car it is mounted just below the passenger side front headlight. A poor or open connection there would most definitely cause your symptoms.
I recently bought used 05 Camry LE with 44k miles on it. I have little to none about car knowledge. I have noticed even if I run my AC on max for an hour it only makes temperature ok not cool. Does that sounds fine? I guess something is wrong. Can any of you please suggest what to troubleshoot and what could be wrong?
Thanks in advance.
Take it to a shop to have them check your freon levels and pressures. They'll also check that your pressure switches are working correctly, turning your compressor on and off correctly.
Toyota dealership can do that, or a repair shop that handles air conditioners.
You may have a leak, which let your freon leak out and is now too low. They can also check for leaks.
Couldn't that a AC filter issue? Just another thought by someone.
Thanks again for your technical advice.
You run it an hour on max recirculate and the vehicle isn't cold, you have some freon flow related problem. Get it to a shop who can diagnose and repair AC issues.
You need a set of gauges to get even a basic understanding of pressures, an understanding of the principles of freon gas to liquid to gas conversion, the effect of pressures and pressure differentials which effects flow through and orifice, and leak kits to do it right. Some make the mistake of just throwing a can of freon in, which can cause problems. You can actually overcharge the system, preventing the compressor from pulling down the lowside pressure low enough, which then prevents enough flow to provide enough cooling. There is a set of proper pressures (on both the low side and the high side), that need to be in the system for it to work correctly. It's not really a DYI'er.
When it is very cold outside ,5 to 20 degrees, it gets to warm
after a short time when the thermestat is at it's lowest 65 degrees.
I have to keep turning the temp to "lo", to shut off the heat and then
it gets too cold and I have to go back to 65. I think the problem would
be elliminated if I were able to set the temp at 63-64, which I can't.
Thank you