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Toyota Avalon Brakes, ABS, VSC, etc.



  • toydrivertoydriver Member Posts: 227
    Need information.

    My car has warped front rotors, with front vibration when applying brakes at speed over 40mph

    What would the "ball park" cost of replacing front rotors (and probably pads) with labor charge??

    Anybody with recent experience with this??
  • bigbluekybigblueky Member Posts: 11
    Toydriver, I myself have a 1997 Toy Avalon and the front brakes is a relatively easy and inexpensive fix. The pads run between $20 - 50, and the rotors are usually between 25-60 depending where you get them. I baught my last set of rotors at NAPA for $28 a piece. Ebay has drilled rotors for a good deal and as far as the pads I highly recommend Ceremic pads which cost about $50 for the fronts and are worth every penny, because they don't squeek or put off much brake dust. Drilled rotors are going to cost more but are nice for keeping the brakes nice and cool, it just depends on what kind of driving you do to justify the added cost of the drilled rotors. As far as labor is concerned it shouldn't take no more than an hour to do both sides of the front. Let me know if I can be of any help to you, you could probably fix them yourself with know problems.
  • jgeorgejgeorge Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 03 Avalon with 20k on the clock. In March my wife complained about several idiot lights on at once. The dealer suggested checking the brake fluid level I did and was very low so it was filled (about half a pint sized container). Then again in mid-June the same thing happens. There are no leaks or puddles in the driveway. The dealer says the reservoir is rather small and this usage could be normal. I have scheduled a appointment next week to have the brake system looked at. My question, is this consumption of fluid normal in this amount of time? i have never had a vehicle use this amount of fluid in this short a time. Thanks in advance.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Of all the things an Avalon can consume, jgeorge, brake fluid is *not* one of them. You have a problem. All those lights can't be wrong.

    If there is absolutely no fluid leaking under, or on, any part of the car then you have two possibilities: the engine is sucking it out of the brake system (could this even happen?) OR you never had enough when the car was new and are still filling up the lines each time you add fluid (more likely).

    Whatever, the dealer should fix the problem immediately as air, like water, will NOT work in a fluid brake system. A quick drain and fill of the brake system, to remove trapped air, may be the easiest solution. Or maybe the first step in finding the trouble.

    Others in the forum may have more ideas... but fluid consumption like this is not normal. My '03 XL has 37k on it... a wonderful car, it does not consume brake fluid. Enjoy your Avy...
  • stocktxstocktx Member Posts: 2

    I also have a 97 avalon and am getting ready to do the brakes. Any special tools required for the Avalon? I've done my Suburban and Grand Prix before. I have 75K miles. Will new rotors be required or can I just turn? Thanks.
  • toydrivertoydriver Member Posts: 227
    Thanks to nomad56 and bigblueky for cost estimates for my '95 Av front brakes.

    This will be the second front brake job (140K mi).
    The first, at 80K mi included new pads and had the rotors turned. Since then, major VIBRATION when braking hard at speed over 40mph. The Toyota service mgr claims that the original rotors can be turned 2 or 3 times before needing replacement.

    Question is, do I risk having the same vibration if I have them turned again, or should they be able to smooth out the imperfections that must be the cause of the vibration? (Different shop people this time around). The estimated difference in cost for new vs. turned rotors is
    around $250.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591

    IMO, do NOT turn rotors. Besides getting more vibration when applying the brakes, they will have thinned the metal enough to have them start to warp sooner, and this becomes a viscous cycle. To answer you question, it can smooth out the warpage, but it is not the same thickness anymore, and the rotor cannot cool the same. In addition in may cause the rotor to be out of balance so you never achieve a good balance in your wheel/tire combination anymore.

    I have found the OEM parts (Toyota parts) regarding brake components to be INFERIOR, NOT SUPERIOR in quality. Many manufactures have "cheaped out" contracting to lesser qualtiy companies to manufacture there brake parts.

    I recently had to replace my rotors and pads after about 48K and used all aftermarket parts with the exception of TRD (Toyota Racing Development) front pads. I put on SP Rotors, slotted and drilled in the front and back with new pads all around and also flushed and changed the brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 but NOT DOT 5). There is a place on the net, called Raceshopper, out of Syracuse, NY that carries higher quality parts, albeit, not cheap, but reasonable. My brakes are sure, solid, and strong better than what came originally on the car.

    IMO, don't compromise on this part of the car!!! It is one of the most important parts and can mean the difference b/w life and not life. Use the best components and either do it yourself or have someone do it, who is knowledgeable and meticulous in details. You notice you Avalon never braked better.

    Good luck.

  • nnz2llnnz2ll Member Posts: 1
    You may be able to help me. I've done brake jobs on Chrysler Corp. vehicles for years. However, I now own my first Toyota, a 2003 Avalon. I'd like to replace the front pads, but would like to know what's different on Toyota. Anything special about removing the caliper or rotor? I refuse to spend $175 for the shop manual to find out. Thanks for your help.

  • will6will6 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. One mechanic told me that I got the rotors to hot and change the metal on the surface. He wanted to turn the rotors.


      Another said I probably let the care set outside where there was a lot of moisture (like

    near the ocean) in the air and it caused a rust film to form on the rotors and this causes the squeaking.


    I haven't done anything, I just continue to drive the car. The squeaks seem to have gone away.
  • zone1zone1 Member Posts: 11
    Condensate will build up in the brake system of any car. You're right, the system is sealed, but it's not that tight. Moisture can get into the reservoir. And if I'm not mistaken, hot brake fluid is hydrophyllic, and will attract water vapor from the air. As the fluid cools the water will precipitate out. Left long enough, the water will pit the cylinders and cause leaks and spongy brakes. Happens on all cars.
    Now, whether 38,000 miles is when the system should be flushed, and whether a "power flush" is required are good questions.
    My experience has been to have the brakes bled to push the water out. Maybe the power flush does a better job.
    I guess what you should research is how much brake repairs can cost versus having the system flushed.
    I'm not real big on using Dealers for maintenance. If you still have suspicions, find a good mechanic and ask him.
    As to the transmission, I have heard that Toyota transmissions can be pretty brutal on the fluid so its a good idea to keep up on the changes. I also know that if you have an oil cooler, (most cars have one in the radiator; others may have a separate unit) that filings from the transmission can migrate there and then settle out in the bends of the tubing, where they begin to restrict the fluid movement. The effect can be that your transmission gets hotter than it should, and that's not good at all. So flushing once in a while is a good idea. Again, whether 38,000 miles is enough to cause a build up that you should be concerned about is something I don't know. But keep in mind that this stuff happens to all automatics, not just Toyota.
  • dbowedbowe Member Posts: 6
    Am sure that adding new brake fluid, transmission fluid, or coolant results in degradation of metal parts. (Ions in the fluid cause breakdown of the metal until equilibrium is established.) Therefore, you should either change the fluids regularly (40k miles) or not at all. Not changing them at all is probably better for your parts in the long run. Flushing will therefore re-excite the bits of metal gunk that are settled out. Alternatively, it will create more metal gunk that will stop up things. If your car is 10 years old and hasn't had the fluids changed, you run a big risk with your head gaskets by suddenly having your oil change guy "flush the system" for you. 2001 car, probably okay to change the fluids if you want to.
  • tashkentbtashkentb Member Posts: 6
    Stong shanking on 98' Toyota Avalon XLSHi,

    I’ve had my 98’ Avalon for almost 2 years and didn’t drive it much or had any major issues. It currently has 99,000 k on it.
    Recently when I drive for at least for half an hour on a highway, the car engine starts to shake vigorously and I fill the car going back and forth while on the highway speed(almost like power is loosing and coming back). When I’m stopping at the light or at a stop while this is happening, while I am breaking, the engine’s power is sounding (like I am pressing on the gas and breaking at the same time and releasesing, which I am not)
    When I drive in the city it does not happen. But when I’m on the highway something must trigger the engine to act this way.
    After I turn off the engine and wait, then start the car back on; the problem disappears until I go back on the highway.

    Has anyone else experienced the same issue?

    Any suggestions or comments?

  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    I can think of a number of possible suspects, but the first that comes to mind is the fuel delivery system - fuel pump would be my first place to start.
  • smata67smata67 Member Posts: 2
    I am hearing the squeal and its time. What are the best brake pads to put on this car? My dealer is asking for $269 for the front, so I am thinking of doing the job myself or going to an independent. I have had the front pad "clicking" noise due to pad shift, and I believe there is a dealer kit to stop this from happening (TSB BR004-00). Any comments on what brakes to go with and the clicking issue to make sure I don't get it again after this brake job?
  • lee17lee17 Member Posts: 1
    It doesn't really matter what brake pads you should go for up to your desrcetion. With the clicking noise it could also be caused with your rotor. It may be uneven or something. If you are unsure get a repair manual to make sure you have all the information to fix that problem. Check your brake calipers. It may be uneven to have the brake pad shift. Check them out and hopefully this does the trick. You might save a hundred or so doing it by yourself than at the dealer.
  • gbinplanogbinplano Member Posts: 65
    I had a similar problem with a 1994 XLE Camry. After cleaning the injectors and replacing plugs, I had the fuel filter replaced. That fixed the problem. During warm-up, the engine is fed a richer mixture. Once warm, the mixture leans. If fuel delivery is blocked, due in my case to a clogged fuel filter, it starves and displays the symptoms you describe.

  • fun2drivefun2drive Member Posts: 2
    The mechanic is mostly right. If the brake pads are not bedded in correctly they will glaze the rotors and that will squeal with light application. However other things that cause brakes to squeal are pads being too square where they form a 90 degree angle to the rotor and chatter. Taking the edge off the pads so that there is not such a sharp angle also helps. The other is not using a good brake pad dampener. The usual stuff is a high temp silicon that looks red. Apply the silicon to the back side ot the pads while the silicon is still uncured and that will help dampen the vibration.
    Some pads do squeal but there solutions I mentioned above that work.
    I hope this is of some help. I am going to be changing the Avalon front rotors and brakes with factory pads and rotors which are more expensive but work well.
  • harley1340harley1340 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Avalon with 147000 miles. I bought the car new and it has been the best car I have ever owned. Recently on a road trip I experienced a noise that sounded to my wife and I like a flat tire. We excited the interstate to check it out and found nothing visably wrong and decided to hit the road again. Smooth as silk for another 200 or so miles then it happens again. Same story, check around a little, back on the road again and she runs like a top. The only clue I can give you is that as we pull off the road to check this noise out, the first time you apply the brakes, they feel soft and make the same sound that we hear as while traveling down the highway. The second time you apply the brakes they feel perfect and the noise is gone. This always happens at highway speed, never around town. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • sanandtonsanandton Member Posts: 342
    Had this same type of noise when I accidently left the parking brake engaged recently. I thought I had a flat tire, and it would only occur when I got up to a certain speed. It took me two pull over and car walk arounds to remember I had left the brake on. (Yes I was blissfully unaware of the warning light, which was working :surprise: ) By chance have you had any recent tire, or brake work on the car? I guess the brakes didn't have enough strength to actually heat up as normally they would be smoking when I pulled over.
  • jherrerajherrera Member Posts: 1
    Rear struts were replaced and was told by mechanic that ABS sensor needs to be replaced. Light went on "after" struts were replaced.
    Need help to test/replace the rear left ABS sensor of my 1998 toyota Avalon.
    How to test it? Are the wires for the sensor near the back seat?
    Does the wires go all the way to the front by the motor?
    I think that there is probably a loose connection to the sensor since problem started after struts were replaced. :confuse:
  • fragmirefragmire Member Posts: 97
    I bought a Toyota certified used 2001 Avalon XLS in January this year. Since then, I've had to have the front-left caliper dig out of rust, the rear rotors and kits replaced due to the complete wear-out of brake pads caused by the brake kits getting stuck in rust, and as of today, I'm experiencing problem with one of the front brakes again. :mad:

    Visually, the calipers and the rotors (not the contact surface) have a lot of rust, but appraently the car was in upstate NY before it came to me, so this can be explained by the preivous owner being too lazy to do under-carriage wash frequently. :sick:

    I've argued with the dealer who did the certification several times, but they claim that this is not their responsibility since this kind of problem can never be "predicted," thus they had no reason to replace the brake system during certification.

    Now, my question is, is this kind of problem normal? Should the dealer who did the certification be held responsible? How can I deal with this problem? I've already contacted several lemon law lawyers, but they say that there isn't much I can do based on the lemon law, and the only option I have is to write an angry letter to Toyota and hope for the best.
  • mikes.mikes. Member Posts: 337
    What kind of warranty did you bget with this car. Does the Certified part of the deal spell out what they inspected and certified? Are the brakes included or specifically excluded?

    I'd have to agree with the lawyers, this isn't a lemon law case but it could be argued under other articles. Especially if the Certified covered the brake systems. Pads wouldn't be covered more then likely since they are a normal wear item. Rotors and calipers might be covered under a Certified plan.

    Sorry to hear of your problems.

  • fragmirefragmire Member Posts: 97
    The warranty only covers the powertrain, so brakes are not covered. The certification process does include inspection of the brake, but as I said, the dealer repeatedly claimed that when they did the inspection, the brake was still working, and that they could not predict the failure of the brakes (even though the amount of rust on there is more than excessive and warranted a complete replacement). Any other suggestion?
  • triton88triton88 Member Posts: 4

    I own a 99 Avalon XL with 66k. I was driving the vehicle the other day and noticed two things. First, there was a burning metal smell coming from the drivers side
    tire or wheel well. I've also noticed that there is a clicking noise on tight turns
    say in a parking lot. It's most noticable with the windows down.

    Any help on as to what it could be?

    Thanks in advance. :surprise:
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    I'd have a shop check two things. First is the front brake pads, rotor, and caliper. If they're frozen, they may be burning up the brakes, causing the smell. The second thing to check is the CV boot and joint. Often a clicking noise when turning is a first sign of a bad CV joint.

    Please tell us what you find out.

    Toyota Ken
  • jkbjkb Member Posts: 2
    I recently had the 60,000 mile service where the plugs were changed, fluids were serviced and so forth. Toyota dealer recommended replacing timing belt and replacing valve cover gaskets (he said they were leaking). I didn't let the dealer do either one because I have never seen any oil on the garage floor nor have I ever had to add oil to the car. Anyway, I took the car on a trip to Galveston and the car started acting funny after about an hour or steady highway driving at 70+ mph. Started out as the same noise I would hear if I had accidently left the parking/emergency brake on (but I hadn't this time). Noise got more and more noticeable until I decided to slow down. Slowing down did not make it go away. I then decided to pull off of the highway and stop. As I tried to stop, the car resisted and the steering wheel began to pull to one side which I resisted. As the car slowed down below 40 mph, normal steering control returned. Stopped car and examined under the hood and looked at the wheels, but couldn't find anything wrong. Drove around the city streets for 10 or so minutes and then got back on the highway. Problem didn't reoccur even at 80+ mph. Stopped and had lunch (about an hour). Got back on the highway. Drove for an hour or so, problem repeated. Again, pulled off and stopped. Got back on the highway, no reoccurance of the problem. When I got to Galveston, took it to a Toyota dealer. He believed the problem stemmed from the rotors needing turning. Car had never had a brake job (I am the original owner of the car (car was a demo unit)). So, I let the dealer turn all the rotors, cost $288. Car did drive and stop smoother. Anyway, I thought the problem was fixed. On the return trip home, driving on the highway at 70+ mph for about an hour, problem reoccurs. Get off of highway, cruise around, get back on the highway, no reoccurance. Question is what can be causing this? There was no problem with the car before I let the Toyota dealership do the service. Now, my wife is afraid to go over 60 mph and basically doesn't want to drive the car except to run errands nearby. Anyone got any suggestions on where to look or what to do? (When I said the car resisted, I mean the car acted as if the cruise control was on, but it wasn't).
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Have them check the front brakes thoroughly.

  • lennyzlennyz Member Posts: 1
    leased an '02 avalon xls new in '02. purchased off lease 3 months ago. had brakes done at 25,500 miles and they have never been the same. dealer said rotors did not have to be changed and turned them down. after brake job was done various noises coming from brakes. returned to the dealer several times. delaer could not identify problem. went back again and dealer heard noise (tic, tic, tic) coming from left side of car. he said it was the tires and rotated the tires. noise went away for several hours and is now back again. also, when applying the brakes (not at all times) a clicking sound has now started. the ride is also starting to get bouncy as i think the struts are wearing. this car is not driven hard and has only 29,500 miles. any help would be appreciated.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591

    Many Avalon owners have similar problems. My opinions are based on real life circumstances you can find in various posts.

    1. Change struts to a premium brand, either TokicoHP or KYB. You will notice a very demonstrable improvement in handling, emergency handling, stability and braking. A 4 wheel alignment is needed at that time. Do not bring it to a Toyota dealership unless they can use aftermarket premium parts, which the OE are not.

    2. Brakes. Never turn rotors.They are never as effective as dissipating heat. Again, the OE rotors are most likely made not in Japan(you get the message). Go buy premium rotors, and new pads, have them lube the appropriate bolts that the caliper slides on, and probably change/bleed the brake fluid(every 3 years regardless of mileage).

    You should see a vast improvement as well. Slotted or drilled rotors, will even give you more bite, but at the expense of money, a low moan when the pedal is applied and increase pad wear.

    Good luck. If you cannot perform the brakes, look for a shop that does this all the time.

  • qman1qman1 Member Posts: 1
    I am having problems with growling when braking fairly hard not like an emergency stop I understand the ABS will effect the braking . the brake pads have 75% or better and my parking brake won't hold the vehicle at all. Where is the adjustment I can't seem to locate that either. any Help would be appreciated.
    Thanks in advance
  • coop3coop3 Member Posts: 3
    I have that tick too...also, my VSC light, and VSC off light came on...took to dealer, they said their computer can't talk to my Avalon computer, so my computer needs to be replaced...$1800!!! Have you heard of that???
  • coop3coop3 Member Posts: 3
    My vsc, vsc off and abs lights all came on. Took to dealership. Their diagnostic scanner could not read our Avalons computer...they say we need a new computer in our car...$1800.00. We're getting a 2nd opinion at local electrical place in town. We have a 2000 Avalon with all the whistles and bells. I'm regretting this purchase! Also, my remote keyless key doesn't work!
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591

    Taking it to a independent who knows Toyota is a great idea. They may be able to fix it for much less. I know you probably know this now, but buying (not leasing) a first year model, no matter what the brand, with all the bells and whistles is not a good idea, statistically. Even more so if the car is not garaged.

    I own an 02 Avalon XL, and an 04 BMW 325ci, both of which I got the least amount of electronic features I could stand, and both are garaged. Both are not first or second model years although the BMW year has been problematic, I have had no problems to date. Sure I will but not now.

    I hope you have good luck othewise, it is a fine car.

  • avalon2000avalon2000 Member Posts: 25
    Yup, have had same problem with my 2000 Avalon XLS for years, all serviced at Toyota dealer only, though vehicle always under warranty, incl. Toyota Platinum no deductible 100k miles/7yr extended, but I ALWAYS had to pay $:

    6/11/03 52,567 miles
    bad charcoal canister VSV, total cost incl labor to repair $152.11

    10/16/03 56,694 miles
    clean sensor, reinstall clear code, total cost incl labor to repair $130.50

    6/24/04 60,252 miles
    same as above, total cost incl. labor $43.50 [they say they gave me a break]

    1/11/06 77,807 miles
    same as above, in the Toyota shop tonight, I assume will cost me $120 or so [wife left gas cap loose].

    Bought this car for cash, took delivery 12/24/99. Major problems:

    above VSC [will be about $470 out of my own pocket]
    sticking right rear brake caliper [$700 under warranty]
    new radio/CD player [$650 under warranty]
    new front ball joints [$500 under warranty]
    new computer [$2,000 under warranty]
    new struts [$800 under warranty]
    four batteries
    three sets of tires [finally junked crappy Michelins for excellent Goodyears]
    usual change transmission, coolent, brake fluid flushes
    new platinum plugs
    three a/c filters
    usual oil/filter changes every 3,000 miles
    numerous wiper blades
    new headlights

    NEVER buy an Avalon, just lease one for a max of three years!
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Avalon 2000:

    Couple of deserving comments here. I have a 02 Avalon now with 77K on it. And yes, I have had issues some of them similar to yours, but not nearly as exhautive. As mentioned numerous times in this forum, the 00-04 Avalon brakes especially the rear discs, are an inexpensive/inferior design and the calipers freeze up quite easily, espeically when exposed to cold weather extremes. Without looking and expecting the brakes for wear and function, this overloads the fronts and there you go. The VSC, mostly on the XLS never gives me headaches since I didn't have it, and replaced my inferior struts with a set of premium struts, allowing increased stability NON electronic, with better emergency braking and avoidance, about $700 with the alignment, more expensive than your $470 repair alone but you had to replace the struts anyway. Premium struts are guaranteed for the lifetime of the original owner, not the labor I may add.

    Again, buying a first year model, especially ladened with excessive electronic gizmos, statistically was not a manuever that should be practiced when automobile shopping. Waiting to the third year of that models provides to be much more a conservative, but less aggrevating move. Those that emotionally reserve are usually rewarded. I really am not impressed with the adage, but this is a Toyota or Honda. All you have to do is read the very interesting other forums, even a car like the Honda Civic and Accord and look at the new model year reliability records. Front brake problems abound as well as other electronic issues. Your year Avalon had a number of seal problems I believe with water leakage, not found in later models. Believe it or not, mine had a bad innner not outer CV joint, which I had to diagnosis myself sinc ethe dealership nor the corporation did not have the acutely to diagnosis it properly.

    In any event, my 02 runs better now, at 78K that it ever did before, albeit very aggrevating iin the first two years and this was the thrid model yeear. I am going to see if I can get it to 300K, as my last car, Civic 90 I got to 236K.

    Time will tell. I still enjoy this car, and I do have a 04 325ci BMW as well, but this one is way move comfortable as a daily driver that also tows.

  • avalon2000avalon2000 Member Posts: 25
    Well, got a call from my Toyota dealer this AM. Will cost me $605, incl. tax, to repair the VSC/Check Engine light problem re replacing canister again, valve, et al. They said that all were contaminated with gas due to a fuel overfill. But the definition of overfill should be, to any reasonable person, when the gas escapes the in-fuel pipe of the vehicle and spills all over. Merely filling a tank up until the pump clicks and then having this problem, and/or when the gas cap is not tight appears to be a significant vehicle defect wherein all repair should be paid for by Toyota, at least under warranty and extended bumper-to-bumper warranty which I have.

    I presume that such problem has been eliminated on new/subsequent year Avalons, and merely doing so reveals such defect to begin with. Saying that, I presume it would cost Toyota a $million+ to refund such VSC repair costs to consumers, easily instituted with a mass mailing to registered owners. I'll be first on line . . . "Ya owe me $957 in total!"]

    Best brand new car I ever owned . . . 1962, 1967, 1968, 1974 Cadillacs! Hum . . . time to visit GM once again!
  • denise4525denise4525 Member Posts: 1
    1996 Toyota Avalon, 3.0 liter, automatic, 4 wheel abs.

    Having problem with ABS coming on at slow speeds when applying brakes. Have replaced 3 out of 4 wheel speed sensors. No codes in memory. Checked remaining speed sensor with lab scope - has good pattern. Also, a slight buzz noise from front of vehicle every time you hit the brake when coming to a stop, this noise only last a second or 2.
    Please help.
  • champion3champion3 Member Posts: 6
    2006 Avalon 2800 miles noticed today while driving in the rain for the first time that when the brakes where applied had a roaring noise from the front brakes. It sounded alot like wore out pads rubbing the rotors but i know thats not it. Doesn't do it in dry conditions, could be caused by the abs system but not sure. Has anyone noticed this on their o6 avalon?
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    Did it feel like something was hammering the front axle under the car?

    If that was it, it was the ABS hammering the brakes with modulation to prevent the tires from skidding while the brakes are applied. It should happen only on wet road. If your tires are bald then it could happen on dry road during hard braking.

    That's proof that the ABS is working in your car.
  • champion3champion3 Member Posts: 6
    No it was not hammering or pulsating it sounded like riding on a road paved with rock.You no how it sounds when you go from smooth paved road to a rock paved road you get more tire noise. This was braking normal not agressively. This is a new car only 2800 miles . All i can guess is the brake pad material must be affected when wet to cause this.When it not raining they make no noise.
  • kpraveenkpraveen Member Posts: 22
    Hi Guys,

    I bought a used 95Avalon XL recently. Then i discovered there is a greece leakage in front passenger side wheel and when i took it to auto service center they have adviced to change the axle. But it does not make any noise. Can someone let me know can i take chance until i hear noise so that i can fix or is it risk driving with this spoiled axle. How much does it cost in replacing it, local service center had quoted $310.

    Thanks in Advance.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Since I have had to replace axles on my 02 unfortunately, I know a little. If you have the inclination, take off the wheels, and gently pull apart the outer CV joint boot and check for any rip and cracks. You should have your answer there. The price quoted sounds reaasonable. They may just replace the entire axle instead of the outer CV joint. If the car is in good condition, it is a good car and worth it..

  • keydellkeydell Member Posts: 1

    This is my first post. I recently bought a used 2001 Avalon. Has 120K on it but bought it after i read its reviews and found that it might be good for another 50 - 75K.

    I have two issues with the car:
    1. The ABS light keeps turning on and off. When it turns ON, and I shut off the engine and turn it back on, the ABS indicator turns OFF. The previous owner changed the tyres and they are supposedly bigger than the OEM indicated size. Would that be causing this problem.
    2. THe VSC light (basically it is not working!!) is permanently ON. The seller told me this is becasue of the tyre issue. But after reading a few posts I am beginning to have doubts about this claim.

    I am a relative newbie and this is only the second automobile in my life. Can sombody who knows / has tackled this problem help me out. Would greatly appreciate it.

  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591

    This is not my area of expertise, but I don't think it is the tire. It is either the receptor or the sending unit, or something else electronic. This is for the ABS. For the VSC, another electronic gizmo, I am not too sure. Maybe someone else who has more electronic troubleshooting expertise can join in here.

    It is a good car, though, if you can get past these issues. You should have the ABS tested and fixed. The VSC also a safety feature, IMO, is not as good as replacing the struts, which at the mileage that you have, might be a better way to spend money for repair/maintenance. Replace the struts with a premium aftermarket brand. You will get better stability control in more situations including emergency handling that with worn struts and VSC.

  • lisa39lisa39 Member Posts: 1
    hi-have a 2002 avalon xls with 43,000 miles. recently, i am hearing noise as i make sharp turns.sounds like slight brake grinding. also the brakes are starting to make the same noise. could it be related?I am the second owner and the first owner was very meticulous about the maintenance.
  • ajaybajayb Member Posts: 1
    Can't tell for sure from what you described but I suggest you check the oil level for power steering. I had the similar problem before and I had to add oil to get rid of that noise.
  • mstlogikalmstlogikal Member Posts: 1
    I have pulled the drivers side cv joint out replaced the boot to that and put it back in but I can't pull the passengers side out! Is there a C clip I need to know about? If so can someone please help me know if there is something I need to do.
  • tlkoertlkoer Member Posts: 7
    I have a 96 avalon xls and when I press the brake pedal I get a buzzing noise. I had read on another forum that low fluid in the ABS reservoir can cause this. First I need to know (which I don't know much about abs brakes) is there a separate reservoir for the ABS system and could this also be my problem? I have no problems stopping.

    Also my windshield wipers go too far to the right and makes a loud noise when in use. Is there away of adjusting the sweep?

    Thanks for the help!

  • whilstwhilst Member Posts: 19
    Hi all.
    00'xls has these lights come on bi-weekly.
    When they come on, it seems like ALL brakes are being applied!
    Checked brake fluid level,gas cap tight.NO "check engine light".
    Any responses out there?
    I just examined all 4 brakes and ABS sensors-cleaned.
    It seems to me,if system detects problem,brakes should revert to a conventional action1?
  • edwardwyedwardwy Member Posts: 1
    I am losing brake fluid every 2000 miles. There is no evidence of the wheel cylinders leaking. The last time I added fluid I got a lot of white smoke from the exhaust. It smelled like brake fluid could this be. Any ideas
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