Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Toyota Avalon Brakes, ABS, VSC, etc.



  • kpraveenkpraveen Posts: 22
    Hi Guys,

    I bought a used 95Avalon XL recently. Then i discovered there is a greece leakage in front passenger side wheel and when i took it to auto service center they have adviced to change the axle. But it does not make any noise. Can someone let me know can i take chance until i hear noise so that i can fix or is it risk driving with this spoiled axle. How much does it cost in replacing it, local service center had quoted $310.

    Thanks in Advance.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Since I have had to replace axles on my 02 unfortunately, I know a little. If you have the inclination, take off the wheels, and gently pull apart the outer CV joint boot and check for any rip and cracks. You should have your answer there. The price quoted sounds reaasonable. They may just replace the entire axle instead of the outer CV joint. If the car is in good condition, it is a good car and worth it..

  • keydellkeydell Posts: 1

    This is my first post. I recently bought a used 2001 Avalon. Has 120K on it but bought it after i read its reviews and found that it might be good for another 50 - 75K.

    I have two issues with the car:
    1. The ABS light keeps turning on and off. When it turns ON, and I shut off the engine and turn it back on, the ABS indicator turns OFF. The previous owner changed the tyres and they are supposedly bigger than the OEM indicated size. Would that be causing this problem.
    2. THe VSC light (basically it is not working!!) is permanently ON. The seller told me this is becasue of the tyre issue. But after reading a few posts I am beginning to have doubts about this claim.

    I am a relative newbie and this is only the second automobile in my life. Can sombody who knows / has tackled this problem help me out. Would greatly appreciate it.

  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591

    This is not my area of expertise, but I don't think it is the tire. It is either the receptor or the sending unit, or something else electronic. This is for the ABS. For the VSC, another electronic gizmo, I am not too sure. Maybe someone else who has more electronic troubleshooting expertise can join in here.

    It is a good car, though, if you can get past these issues. You should have the ABS tested and fixed. The VSC also a safety feature, IMO, is not as good as replacing the struts, which at the mileage that you have, might be a better way to spend money for repair/maintenance. Replace the struts with a premium aftermarket brand. You will get better stability control in more situations including emergency handling that with worn struts and VSC.

  • lisa39lisa39 Posts: 1
    hi-have a 2002 avalon xls with 43,000 miles. recently, i am hearing noise as i make sharp turns.sounds like slight brake grinding. also the brakes are starting to make the same noise. could it be related?I am the second owner and the first owner was very meticulous about the maintenance.
  • ajaybajayb Posts: 1
    Can't tell for sure from what you described but I suggest you check the oil level for power steering. I had the similar problem before and I had to add oil to get rid of that noise.
  • mstlogikalmstlogikal Posts: 1
    I have pulled the drivers side cv joint out replaced the boot to that and put it back in but I can't pull the passengers side out! Is there a C clip I need to know about? If so can someone please help me know if there is something I need to do.
  • tlkoertlkoer Posts: 7
    I have a 96 avalon xls and when I press the brake pedal I get a buzzing noise. I had read on another forum that low fluid in the ABS reservoir can cause this. First I need to know (which I don't know much about abs brakes) is there a separate reservoir for the ABS system and could this also be my problem? I have no problems stopping.

    Also my windshield wipers go too far to the right and makes a loud noise when in use. Is there away of adjusting the sweep?

    Thanks for the help!

  • whilstwhilst Posts: 19
    Hi all.
    00'xls has these lights come on bi-weekly.
    When they come on, it seems like ALL brakes are being applied!
    Checked brake fluid level,gas cap tight.NO "check engine light".
    Any responses out there?
    I just examined all 4 brakes and ABS sensors-cleaned.
    It seems to me,if system detects problem,brakes should revert to a conventional action1?
  • edwardwyedwardwy Posts: 1
    I am losing brake fluid every 2000 miles. There is no evidence of the wheel cylinders leaking. The last time I added fluid I got a lot of white smoke from the exhaust. It smelled like brake fluid could this be. Any ideas
  • claytonpclaytonp Posts: 5
    I recently bought a 99 Avalon with just over 119,000 miles on it. I drove it about 75-80 miles without any problems and all the sudden the "TRAC OFF" light came on? The owners manual says to take it to the dealer but the wheels are not spining when I step on the gas and there does not seem to be any indication of a problem. Any ideas here?
  • gomst1gomst1 Posts: 58
    Most likely there is a leak at the brake master cylinder. That leak goes to the brake booster and sucked by the engine from the vacuum line connected to the brake booster.
    I believe you should be able to visually see the leak if you can see/access that part of the brake pedal where the brake pushrod is seated. Good luck.
  • guestguest Posts: 770
    Just had one fail on my 05 Av. Under warranty but already this model has been back to dealer for more warranty work than my 96 Av was.
  • Anyone figure out how to fix the short buzzing noise that occurs when depressing the brake pedal?
  • Problem was bad Power Brake Booster.
    Air leak from around clevis pushrod allowed ambient air(14.7psi) to gradually push diaphragm to apply pressure on Master Cylinder and causing "Master cylinder pressure sensor" to cause ECU to light up ALL lights!
    I found this and repaired.
    Dealer wanted to diagnose for 3 hrs. and replace sensor to see what else was needed!!
    Screw that.
    $550 part and my 2.5 hrs. labor-Fixed.
  • the indicator in my dash says there is a brake light out but there isn't. a new switch is $200, just to tell me a brake light is out. is there a way to "jump" around the switch so i dont have to replace it
  • gomst1gomst1 Posts: 58
    You may have a brake light bulb that is not of the correct wattage. The amount of current draw from the brake bulbs is what is being monitored. I don't think your problem is with the brake switch. Good luck.
  • tomittomit Posts: 2
    Having been through this exercise several times with my '95, I went ahead & changed all rear lights - tail, stop (including the one in the rear window), turn signal, license plate, etc. The warning light in the dash has stayed out for 2 years now.

  • I concur. Change all your lights in rear and problem will be solved guaranteed.

    97 XLS w/ all the toys!
    Enjoy & Long Live The Avalon!
  • I can step on the brake but cannot release the handle from P position. Also, no brake lights come on. I checked all the bulbs but they are OK (!?)
    Anyone would know what could cause such problem? Avalon 97 XL.
  • What gives it away is your inability to shift out of park. Check your fuse box for a blown fuse that covers brake lights. Also check the brake pedal switch for your brake lights. The shift release works off the brake lights. One last thing, check the shift lever position switch. If you ever notice, the release lever doesn't activate while not in park. If the switch doesn't sense park, it won't release either. There is an emergency shift release you can use if you need to for the time being.

    ** 97 XLS w/ All The Toys! **
    ** My Baby! **
    ** Enjoy & Long Live Your Avalon! **
  • scgrnmomscgrnmom Posts: 4
    I bought my Avalon new in Feb 03. I have 63,200 miles and my car is shimmying when I brake. I just bought 4 new tires (not Michelins). I've had the car back to the tire dealer 3 times. Vibrated when on Interstate. 2nd time back they did a wheel alighment & rebalance. 3rd time they tell me that it's my rotors. They are very bright (I think on the back). I replaced rotors & pads (used ceremic pads) in Oct,05 with less than 40,000 miles. I checked with the dealer & asked how long do brakes last? Could be 60,000 but said it was probably MY driving. In June of 06 (47,346 miles)I had similar problems & was told it was my rotors again. I left my car in GA with my daughter while I was away & she took it to a Toyota dealer & they turned the rotors at a cost of $99 each. I've had my tires rotated, several wheel alighments & here I am again, in July 07 & dealing with the same thing. When I look at the rotors, one of them on the front is very rusty. Last visit to the Tire dealer said that the caliphers may be sticking & would need to investigate that. I have a private extended warranty & the brakes (pads & rotors) aren't covered, but the caliphers are. I am getting tired of this routine.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    The dealer could easily check for sticking calipers by using a type of thermometer that can measure rotor temperature. It is true that overheated rotors will warp. It is also true that cheap rotors will warp, or rotors that are under-engineered for the weight of the car.

    One possible and final solution for you...presuming your calipers are checked and NOT sticking (again, by testing the temperature after the car has been driven) to install a higher quality aftermarket rotor. Certainly many people have successfully beaten the "rotor dance" by doing this.

    I don't think turning your old rotors was a good idea as it creates a kind of vicious cutting the rotors they have less mass and with less mass they can heat up even faster, thereby warping faster, etc

    Visiting Host
  • scgrnmomscgrnmom Posts: 4
    The old rotors were turned with only about 10,000 miles on them. My daughter took my car to the Toyota dealer while I was away on a trip.

    I've been asking others about the brakes. I used blue ceremic pads when I put new pads & new rotors on. They were supposed to be the best. A friend says they cut into the rotors more & perhaps a softer pad would help.

    We checked the rotors for wear & they do not all look alike. One looks more worn than the other 3. Haven't taken it to the shop yet to check the calipers.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Well that's quite suspicious...perhaps the rotor is not moving properly on its slide (if that's the type your car uses---can't recall)...but pads should wear the same.

    Yes you're right, some pads are "very good" but hard on rotors.
  • scgrnmomscgrnmom Posts: 4
    I went in this morning for an oil change. The mechanic looked at the rotors & said they all looked the same to him. (I didn't think so) Anyway, they are the ones with the holes in them that would help them keep from overheating. The guy said he didn't think the caliphers were sticking, but I want a second opinion. The Parts place I bought the rotors said they are the best & so were the pads and she said she suspected the caliphers.

    If I have to buy new rotors, should I buy new pads too?

    I have to make a trip to Virginia in two weeks. The Toyoto Dealer I bought the car from is up there. Would it be safe to drive that far & look into getting the work done there?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Well drilled rotors might have chewed up your pads. Don't use drilled rotors!!! Get a good quality stock rotor and a pad like Performance Friction brand or some such.
  • mcclearyflmcclearyfl Posts: 149
    There have been many posts regarding the problems associated with overtightening the wheel lug nuts, invariably resulting in a heavy pulsation normally associated with warped disks or sticking calipers.

    I have just replaced the tires on my 55K 2003 Avalon XLS, and the pulsation was immediately obvious. The lugs on all four wheels were greatly overtorqued, and required considerable effort with a long lugnut rod to loosen them. I tightened them to a little more than finger tight, and drove round the block a couple of times. I then retightened them, taking great care to perform this operation very evenly and carefully, spreading the pressure across the whole wheel. I applied sufficient torque that I could easily loosen the nuts with the small wrench that comes as standard equipment.

    The excessive pulsation has gone. There is a very slight vibration that I consider normal for an Avalon that has never had a brake service, though my 2002 Saab (which has a much better disk system) is a smooth as the day I bought it.

    So check those wheel lug nuts !!
  • dpyerdpyer Posts: 1
    I had an oil change yesterday and was told that my front brake pads have less than 10% left with only 18k miles on my '06 Avalon. That doesn't sound right to me but was told that with city driving, the pads can wear down that quickly. Anyone else experience this?
  • I was driving at a slow speed with a fair amount of traffic and when I went around a curve I heard a noise from the rear of the car and the car felt like I had gone over a curb. I then applied the brake and the brake pedal was completely depressed but the car did not brake and I hit another car. The impact was not too great but the entire right front of my car crumbled, however, the air bag did not inflate. The car was on a busy street so the police moved it when they arrived. I assume the brakes worked at that time but there was no discussion about it. The car is now in the body shop and I spoke to the proprieter about having the brakes checked. Does anyone have any suggestions about what I should do. I am a recent widow and my husband always took care of the cars so I am at a loss.
Sign In or Register to comment.