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Toyota Avalon Engine Questions



  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    have to changed the spark plugs on it.
  • I have a 96 Avalon (130k). I know, I know...there's lots of discussions on this upon searching but I can't seem to find a solution to mine. I noticed the check engine light on yesterday while running. When I got home, I turned off the engine. This morning , the check engine still lights up. On the manual, it says to check the gas cap is closed tightly, which it is . It also said make sure there is enough gas, (it's half full), check electrical system.( A few weeks ago, I noticed on the dash that the rear bulb/s lighted up) Could this be the culprit? FYI, I had the car fixed for engine valve leak , rack and pinion replacement, and fuel injection cleaning a few weeks ago. Any ideas.?...thanks.
  • mikes.mikes. Posts: 336
    Hey Frisco, without the engine code there is a couple thousand things that it could be.

    1 thing to try is to disconnect the battery for about 5 minutes then reconnect and see if the light is still on. If so places like Autozone will hook-up a diagnostic unit and get the code(s) then they can tell you what that says. Around me they do this for free.

    Boy I miss trips to the city :(

  • richards1richards1 Posts: 1
    Engine light came on, VBS light came on, VBS "off "light came on. VBS light remains on no matter what position VBS switch is in. Car is performing perfectly. What can I do to correct this? And, is there a way to disable the computer and then re-boot it?
  • mohandusmohandus Posts: 1
    Thanks for the several strings on the Tokico HP's. I have a 200 XLS with 52 K and after install I think I am driving a new car. Quite the difference and well worth the cost. I did not put in the PU bushings, I believe this will eliminate some play in the linkages, another project for another day. Thanks again.
  • ava97ava97 Posts: 1
    My 97 Avalon chokes at startup when car is setting in heat, no problem when I start it in the morning. Car finaly starts while pumping gas padel, when it starts, I can drive and restart again, it works normal. I had my car tuned up 10K miles ago, fuel/air filters and ejectors have been changed/cleaned. Any idea what the problem might be?
  • mslatmslat Posts: 2
    today while driving home from work, my 1999 toyota avalon began suddenly idling hard. it almost felt like it was shaking. and when i would let off the breaks slowly, it became worse. i could even feel it on the highway a little.
    i know nothing about cars, and was wondering if anyone had any ideas for me before i go to the mechanic.
    last time i experrienced something like this on an older toyota i had it was something like radiator issues? maybe something like that?
    anyhow, suggestions anyone?
  • obafunqueobafunque Posts: 9
    A question for the members: My 2000 Avalon with 95K miles started showing
    the engine yellow light on. Tight the gas cap and light dissapeared. Two weeks later again the problem. Replaced the gas cap and didn't work. Went to a local dealer for a diagnosis. O2 sensors in bank 1 and bank 2 bad. Cost of replacement around $600........including parts and labor.
    1) A local auto parts offer what they call "an universal O2 sensor" to replace the one in the front close to the manifold......$ this a solution?
    2) How bad for the car is continuing running the car with this problem? It will affect the performance in the long run? The car is running perfectly.
    3) Is any cheaper way to around this problem and get it fix? I really can't afford such amount of money right now.
    Please, advise.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    You can give the aftermarket sensor a try and/or do nothing. However, it may effect the richness of the fuel mixture and if it does, can effect gas milage and/or the catalitic converter. I'd call around to get a few more quotes for the repair to see if there is anywhere that can do it a bit more affordably if you're on a tight budget though.

  • sanandtonsanandton Posts: 342
    Had the same issue arise in my 2000 Avalon recently. Have a friend who is a certified Honda mechanic check it out. It also said that the front bank O2 sensor was bad and that the mixture was "lean". He reset the light, and it came back on. I was suspicious as the light came on the day my wife filled the car with the cheapest gas around at a small Mom/Pop Gas station. I ran the tank to empty and refilled with a more trustworthy and higher ocatane gas and had my friend reset the light again. It has not come on since then. It has now been two months. We are back to using regular gas now, but avoid that station as I think it may have had some contaminate in the gasoline.

    That being said, My friend tells me that Toyotas O2 sensors do go bad, and it could have just as easily been a bad sensor.
  • mslatmslat Posts: 2
    after the idling really hard and acting like it was on a delay or something, my check engine light came on. does anyone have any ideas? please help! i am a girl and hate taking cars to the mechanic without having any idea of what could be going on!
  • mikes.mikes. Posts: 336
    Sounds like the MAF sensor and related componets need cleaned.Search this forum if you need more info on the MAF sensor.

  • obafunqueobafunque Posts: 9
    Thanks for the responses. Replaced the O2 sensor located in the front (manifold) with the universal one suggested by local auto part retailer. Clear the codes with the scanner and after few hours light came back again. It may be because I only changed one and the one after the catalytic converter needs to be changed as well? If so, which auto part is reliable to buy it from? Bosch or denso? Any experience with any retailer? I checked one in New Jersey and the price was $135.24 ( shipping free) but no warranty??????? Please, advise.
  • smata67smata67 Posts: 2
    WAIT! I just had the exact problem. The first thing to do is go to AutoZone and get their scan tool with which you can obtain the trouble code. You plug it into a socket that has a plastic cover just under your steering wheel on the door side. The code will come back telling you which "BANK" the bad sensor is in. Unfortunately, I can't tell you which Bank is which, you will need to look that up in a very detailed book AutoZone has for the trouble codes, ask them for it. The Avalon has 3 sensors, two near the engine (one at each bank of cylinders) and one underneath the car passenger side. The one that usually goes bad is the one at the engine in the rear side. It is mounted in the exhaust manifold. You changed the easy one in the front, and that is fine, if you have more than 80K miles or so, it needed changing anyway. The one in the rear is a little tougher to reach, it is screwed into the manifold. I got mine out with a crescent wrench. Wear a strong long sleeved shirt or you will scratch up your arms bad getting to it. If it is on too tight when the engine is cold, try running the engine for 2 minutes to warm it up, mine came out easily after this. It is a little tough to get at from the topside, you must snake your arm around stuff, but IT CAN BE DONE. On the connector end, slide the thingy upwards to take it off of the metal mounting tab, PRESS the plastic tab on the side and pull it out. Well, now that you have the sensor out of the car, get yourself a BOSCH universal o2 kit for about $60 (Advanced has them for $70). There is a current $10 rebate for these. Follow the directions. The kit uses the existing connector with a new sensor. I soldered my joined ends and shrink wrapped over the connections, but the little kit they give you for joining the existing connector to the new sensor is fine. If you are really hurting for $, install the one you took out from the front (hopefully you kept the one you took out!) to the rear. If the trouble code indicated the one under the car is the culprit, that one is easy to disconnect from the exhaust pipe, but the connector end is located under the passenger seat somewhere. I have not changed this one yet, but someone suggested that I take up the center console and look under the carpet at the hump and the connector is in that area. GOOD LUCK.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591

    You are very welcome. I thought it was very worthwhile myself. The PU bushings, made by Energy Suspension, are relatively easy to put in. Changing wheels, albeit a very expensive option, recurring expense, to a PLUS ONE size, will also give you a more transient response and a "tighter" feel to steering inputs. I DO NOT RECOMMEND, going MORE THAN, PLUS ONE sizing and neither does Comsumer Reports in there article last year. PLUS TWO OR THREE sizing, gives you very little more response, slow the car in acceleration, and drastically decreases the quality of the ride. Sometime the Avalon is very good at.

    I will be putting in a Powered Sub Woofer in the trunk and report on it in the future.

  • debrew264debrew264 Posts: 1
    My wife recently bought a 2000 toyota avalon xls. Last week, the engine light came on and the instrument panel went "dead". All the gauges and the center display stopped working. For a couple of days, it would work off and on. Now, it seems to be not working at all and the engine is running very rough. I checked the code for the engine light and it was P0500-vehicle speed sensor malfuntion-Can anyone tell me where this sensor is located and if it would cause the problems with the instrument panel. We have parked the car until we can figure out what's going on. Also, this car seems to run extremely hot in general. Is that normal? The temp gauge never seems to indicate any problem but I'm always amazed at just how hot the engine is even after a short drive.
  • jim3jim3 Posts: 19
    I have a 2000 Avalon which has been running hot lately. The gauge was at about 3/4 spiking up to halfway to the red so I took it in to the dealer who checked and found nothing wrong. Yesterday we went some place driving about 70, a few small hills, mostly level highway, outside temp about 98, and the gauge ran a fraction of an inch below the red. The dealer said don't worry if its not in the red. I'm worried the car will conk somewhere on the road. Anyone else have this problem?
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 591
    Several possibilities here:

    The thermostat is sticking. Engine is running hotter than it should. The gauge is right.
    The gauge is wrong. Sending unit or gauge is defective.
    Cooling system is plugged intermittenly with circulating trash. The gauge is right. Drain, power flush, refill.
    In any case, there is a problem to be found and fixed. Avalons do not run in the red area of the temp gauge under normal conditions, not even at 98 degrees.

    Others may have more ideas.....hope this helps.....
  • obafunqueobafunque Posts: 9
    I replaced the two O2 sensors diagnosed bad from the Toyota dealer. I used the "Universal" O2 sensors that Auto Zone sell for $89.99. Clean the codes with the scanner and next day engine light is on again. Read the codes and again gave me P1135 and P1155 also P1135 Pd and P1155 Pd ( pending). It means, that the "universal" O2 sensors I replaced do not work for Avalons or there is something I am missing? My Avalon is a 2000 XLS model with 95K on it. Other than that, the car is running OK but the annual inspection is coming ( live in Texas) and I am afraid it will not pass the inspection. Please, share with me your experience. NOTE: My budget is so tight right now, so I can not afford to go the dealer for fixing this problem ( around $600). Thanks to all in advance
  • Occasionally, my 1998 Avalon run very rough, both high speed and idle. I can turn the car off for ten minutes and restart he car and the problem is gone.
  • sparkle99sparkle99 Posts: 1
    My 98 Avalon is acting the same way.IT recently has had new timing belt ,new spark plugs and wires, new water pump and new crank sensor.I am now thinking my mechanic is guessing as to what the problem is.It has 180,000 thousand miles and I bought it new.I have already spent $1000 in repairs and wonder where it will end.I would like to keep the car a few more years.It misses after high speed driving and then when I drop the speed to exit the interstate the rough idle starts.After it sits awhile it is okay but does happen again under the same circumstances.If you find an answer ,let me know.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591

    The bushing will NOT relieve any play in the steering linkages. This is a separate part and issue. If they are bad, have them replaced with OEM Toyota parts. The sway bar PU bushings are another matter, and do not allow as much deflection, thereby leveling the car around turns, but also firming up the ride a little.

  • mikes.mikes. Posts: 336
    "Occasionally, my 1998 Avalon run very rough, both high speed and idle. I can turn the car off for ten minutes and restart he car and the problem is gone.
    Suggestions? "

    Yes, the MAF sensor probably needs a good cleaning. Do a search in this forum for more info on the MAF.

    Sparkle99, this goes for you too.

  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Good advice fin. I agree, there is something wrong, although a history on the car would helped, such as radiator changes, waterpump changes, etc.

  • Mikes,
    my 1998 Avalon does the same thing, unless of course I take it in when no one can find anything wrong. According to the diagnostic equipment, all sensros test fine, including the MAF. Any recommendations on how to clean; my mechanic said all they can do is clean it with pressurized air.
    I appreciate any suggestions.
  • My 95 Avalon engine light recently came on. By using an instrument from the auto part store it gave me only one code P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (bank 1). the parts store clerk couldn't give me any further information about what this code refers to or how to service it. Any help? Glen
  • My 2000 Avalon 80k is leaking oil from the oil pan. They tell me their is 2 oils pans one that runs the bottom of the engine, and a 2nd where the drain plug is..
    The leak is the larger pan where it bolts to the motor. Question is Have you heard this 2 oils pan story is it true just curious. Could it be a larger problem?

    Thanks in advance
  • i got this check engine on the dashboard, i send to the dealer for diagnosis it was the O2 sensor circuit malfunction, air intake temperature sensor circuit malfunction, mass air flow meter sensor circuit malfunction & evaporation vent sensor circuit malfunction, and also this whining sound when the rpm is around 1000 rpm-1200 rpm but if the car accelerates more than this rpm the whining sound is gone, can u please give advice ...
  • cdelcdel Posts: 1
    Would like to know if you had a fix on this problem i have the same car with the same issue
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