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97 Chevrolet Silverado Complaints

maverymavery Posts: 6
edited March 2014 in Chevrolet
Has anyone had problems with their truck not
starting? I had an experience where my truck did
not start after the initial attempt and subsequent
attempts were fruitless. After 5 idle minutes, the
truck started up again. Dealer states it is most
likely the fuel filter. 22k miles and the fuel
filter needs replacing??


  • fredwoodfredwood Posts: 79
    It would help if you give more details on your exact truck and the situation. Did try starting your truck after sitting over night or just turned it off for a few minutes before starting it?

    FYI, I replace my fuel filter every 10,000 miles no matter what, $5 is a lot cheaper than new injectors.
  • maverymavery Posts: 6

    Details : 97 K1500 5.7L Problem happened after the engine was warm and I attempted to start it approx. 15 minutes after being shut off. Also, I've noticed a intermittent hesitation at freeway speeds.
  • hemiheadhemihead Posts: 8
    Try looking at your fuel pump. I have an uncle with a 96 and he had the same problem. When starting the truck, listen for the whine of the fuel pump when the ignition is turned on. If there is no whine then something is loose in the circuitry, you have blown a fuse, or you have a faulty fuel pump. The new Vortechs seem to have more fuel pump problems than the basic fuel injected throttle bodies in 87 thru 95. My dad has a 95 with a 350 and as much miles as my uncle's and has not had this problem.
  • I read with interest the recommendation to change the fuel filter at frequent intervals, sounds like good advice.

    I recently bought a 98 Silverado, 5.7 Vortec, and like it a lot. Noticed however the oil filter looks like it belongs on my old Astro van V-6. Kinda puny in comparison to the PF 35 on my 85 350.
  • fredwoodfredwood Posts: 79
    Sounds like the fuel filter is the culprit. Here is what is going on,

    1. the hesitation at freeway speeds is due to lack of sufficient fuel to the engine from the clogged fuel filter.

    2. since the engine is now nice and hot with a less than adequate fuel supply, the little remaining fuel in the line is causing vapor lock.

    Here is how to prevent it,

    Stop buying crappy gas, from little gas stations. If the dealer that you normally buy it from is a well known one or a large retailer, try a different brand. Perhaps they ran their storage tank low on the day you bought gas and got some sludge in your truck. Like I said before, change your fuel filter every 10,000 miles. Good luck.
  • stobarstobar Posts: 110
    I have a '97 C-1500 Silverado, 2WD, 5.7L, V-8. Haven't noticed any of the above problems, but it has made me stand up and take notice. Just went over 9,000 miles and wouldn't you know it, just had the oil changed the day before I read the previous messages. But thanks to your posts, I plan on having the fuel filter changed at the 12,000 mile service. Thanks again. Barry
  • maverymavery Posts: 6

    Well, dealer told me that nothing was wrong with the fuel pump or filter. I ALWAYS buy gas from a major dealer (Chevron) with no issues in the last 10 years or past year for my Chevy truck. Maybe their storage tank did get low.

    Don't get me wrong. I love my truck and wouldn't trade it for anything. Just wanted to know if anybody else had seen a similar issue. Doesn't appear to be the case.
  • fredwoodfredwood Posts: 79
    Did they find anything, give you an explanation or at least change the filter?

    Has your truck kept acting up or has the problem subsided?

    FYI, I have used chevron and arco in my area and have found that I get about two miles per gallon less with the chevron.
  • alchavezalchavez Posts: 28

    Yes, there is someone else out there with the same problem! My dad's 96 silverado 5.0 liter just quit on him last week. He said that he couldn't start it when he came out of the bank so the engine was already warm. He got it towed home and it started right up the next morning. Since it kept starting right up, he got brave and drove it to the store. When he was done shopping, he couldnt start it up again and he had it towed again. Bummer. He has suspected the fuel pump as well. At 44,000 miles his warranty won't help so he will replace it on his own to save money. (The fuel pump is in the gas tank.) I'll let you know what happens!

    Alex C.
  • maverymavery Posts: 6
    Alex C.

    Thanks. This is great feedback! Please keep me informed.
  • stobarstobar Posts: 110
    CUP HOLDERS. This isn't really a complaint - okay, maybe it is, but wanted to post here to see if other '97 Silverado owners have had the same problem. I have been looking high and low for cup holders for the rear bench area of my extended cab. I have two little ones who sit back there, and have tried the clip on holders and holders that have a strap that hangs down. Only problem with the two is that you have to open the pop-out window to put in place, and then when you're going down the highway, but then you hear a whistle from the window seal not being tight. Does anyone have suggestions for cup holders for the rear seat areas? The closest I have come to finding one that works was K-Mart had a ratchet type cup holder that uses a vice tightener to tighen or loosen the clamp on bottom. I was able to fit it in the handle area and the cup portion on top expands or recedes depending on the size cup. The portion that fits in the handle area is too tall, thus the cup holder hangs down slightly. J. C. Whitney, other truck accessory magazines, and your typical Auto Zone stores have been no help.
    Any suggesions?
  • cdeancdean Posts: 1,110
    If you have bucket seats with a center console, there are 2 cup holders in the center console that slide out for the back seat.
  • alchavezalchavez Posts: 28

    Well, my dad asked 2 dealers what they would charge to diagnose and fix the problem with his truck. One wanted to charge $80 to diagnose and $ 300 to fix the truck if it was indeed found to be a faulty fuel pump. The other dealer at least told him that it was very likely to be the fuel pump that caused his stalling (refreshing honesty.) but wanted $120 for the pump and $48 an hour for labor (estimated at 3+ hours.) My dad then called around and found an aftermarket fuel pump for about $80 and found a willing friend to help him install it himself. Now my dad's no slouch when it comes to fixing cars, after all he's installed a few Chevy small blocks in his day, but these new cars are sometimes unnessarily complicated and even require custom tools that you can't use for any other cars. Nevertheless, after only an hour and a half, he and his friend removed the fuel tank, swapped out that old pump, installed the new, and started the truck right up. Its been running fine all week! Now, I think he'll take care of that fuel filter this weekend.

    Moral of the story, those damn Dealers sometimes have your privates in their grip if you know what I mean. But, sometimes the little guy wins.

  • richflynnrichflynn Posts: 147
    Fourty eight bucks to diagnose seems like a rip off to me. Go buy a vacume guage, $10-12 range. Disconnect the fuel line high up in the engine, so the gas wont run out. Connect the guage to the fuel line. Turn the key to on. After a few moments you'll see the reading. On a carburerator engine, 7 pounds was considered normal, 3 pounds marginal and less than 3 was replace.

    I can't figure out why the dealer needs an hour to diagnose. Maybe the technician has to run to Kragan to buy the vacume guage????

  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    If you are having fuel problems and live in the area where they have winter (oxigenated) gas, a little advice: besides that gas cleans out any garbage from your tank, it also may desolve/clog your paper element in the fuel filter. Does not matter what the dealer said, I have seen cut up fuel filters with low milage.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    My '96 extended cab with the 5.7L vortec said goodbye to the first fuel pump at 16K miles. The truck is now in the shop having the same problem checked out at 29K miles. If this keeps up, I will by an aftermarket pump and put it in myself just for the peace of mind.
  • rfreyerrfreyer Posts: 1
    My '97 Z71 XCab has a pronounced driveline "shudder" between 42-45 mph. The dealer told me originally that many had the same problem; that it was a "frame vibration" that GM knew about. They have never fixed it, and despite continued complaints & taking the truck back many times they now say this is an isolated case! Chevrolet replaced the rear shocks under warranty, but the problem persists. Does anyone else have this problem? If so, what has been done to solve it? Thanks for any help.
  • FETZFETZ Posts: 51
    My '96 has the "shudder". But on mine it only occurs at around 15 MPH while accelerating under heavy load (when I tow my travel trailer). I've had it to the shop for this serveral times. The dealer was in communication with the engineers in Detroit for this problem. Chevy installed Rancho RS 9000 shocks on the rear, and replaced the torque converter under warranty. But the shudder is still there. Then Chevy wanted to remove the rear leaf springs and send them to a suspension shop to be re-arced, which would have taken two weeks. I said forget it. Because I'd rather drive my truck than have it sit in the shop, I gave up on the problem. Chevy doesn't know what's causing it. They were just grasping at straws.

    Besides this minor flaw (in my case anyway), I'm very happy with the truck.
  • ahuffahuff Posts: 4
    I have a 97 xcab Z71. I am having a serious problem with the wonderful "third door" feature. I have had the truck for a year and have gone through 3 times that the door will not open. The handle has no tension whatsoever. The second time I had it repaired was two days ago. Lo and behold, the door will not open once again today. We do not abuse the door. Frankly, we don't use it all that much. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, was it resolved to your satisfaction?
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    To FETZ. I also tow a light camper with a 97 Z71. A friend of mine owns a trany shop and told me not to use overdrive under 50 and NEVER take of in OD. It has something to do with the converter. So when I get on the highway I use 3rd and shift into OD over 50mph.

    Whay not have new springs installed by Chevy and tell them to &^%$^&*^ the old ones? It only should take a day.

    Another thought, I have replace the 245/75R16 factory big lug tires whith 265/75R16 highway tires. The truck runs a lot smoother with them. Your problem could be a combination of things.

    Do you have a weight distribution hitch?
  • cookie1cookie1 Posts: 68
    This message goes out to ahuff with his third
    door problem. I do not have trouble opening the
    third door, but I do have problems with getting
    it closed securely enough so it won't flex and
    make creeking noises every day that I drive it.
    I think there should be a definite recall on
    this so called popular third door feature seeing
    as I know more than one person who has had
    problems with this poorly designed third door.
    My problem has not been resolved yet, and I hope
    soon yours will. Good luck on finding a dealership
    who cares enough to fix your problem, I haven't yet.
  • I find this area most interesting as I am - possibly was - planning to trade my 95 x-cab 1500 for the 99 version with the third door. The third door is what I was excited about. I would be interested in hearing anyone's comments on this feature and am wondering if anyone knows if there have been design improvements for 99.
  • ahuffahuff Posts: 4
    I am thrilled to w/the presence of the third door. I've never owned an extended cab before this truck but cannot imagine why anyone would want one without the 3rd door. The passenger seat doesn't go up far enough to make even putting groceries back there easy. My husband and I have no children and we hardly ever take anybody else with us in the truck. I can't imagine what a pain it is to climb in and out of the back seat without the door. The dealer has solved my problem with my third door not opening. It works fine. We had some words about their poor service on some of their past work for me though. All in all I am completely thrilled with my truck. I went from a 95 Transam to the z71 a year and half ago. Big difference between vehicles. I still have the power to blow the doors off pretty much anything when I decide to. The handling is a bit different :), of course, but I eventually got used to not doing 70 around curves!
  • surzynsurzyn Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Extended Cab Short Box k-1500 and am having problems with the sterring feeling "loose" and wandering on the road intermittently. Anyone else have this problem?
  • cdeancdean Posts: 1,110
    What kind of tires do you have on the truck, Surzyn? Buddy of mine with a Z71 had very loose steering, so I advised him to tighten down on a set screw on the gearbox, which "pushes" the steering gears together, taking out slack. he said it helped a little. Then a couple of weeks later he bought a set of All season tires for the truck, replacing the heavy-lugged mudders he had on there originally. His steering became much tighter with the new tires. turned out that his steering didn't need adjustment after all, it was the tires.
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    cdean:!!!!!! The set screw you mentioned, does it exist on a 1977 Firebird steering box? I will look at my '97 Z71 to see if the box is similar to the 77's.
  • cdeancdean Posts: 1,110
    I've never seen a '77 firebird steering box, but i've never seen a steering box without one (not to say there isn't one out there.)

    I guarantee your truck has one. Its right on the top of the gear box, perpendicular to the steering column. There is probably a jam-nut on it. the best way to adjust it is to jack the front of the vehicle up, (get the weight off the wheels), loosen the jam nut, and screw down the screw about a quarter turn at a time. It doesn't take much to make a huge difference in steering feel. If you get it too tight, the steering will bind because the gears are too close together, and will lock-up your steering, so be very careful not to go to much.

    best thing to do when adjusting it is to make an adjustment, feel the steering wheel to make sure you can still feel *a little* slack, then tighten the jam nut and take the vehicle for a short spin, and see if the steering is tight like you want, and to make sure it is not too tight that the steering locks up.

    Note to anyone who wants to tighten steering on a Ford truck, that this will not work. Ford steering gets loose because of their suspension design, which can only be fixed by rebuilding the front end. don't want anyone screwing up their gearbox and then blaming me. :)
  • sjsporsjspor Posts: 10
    surzyn, you steering problem sounds like the steering position sensor for the speed senstive power steering. Take it to Mr. Goodwrench, they have the TSB's.
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    This may be too late to help the original questioner, but it may help others.
    There is also the issue of even though it “feels” snug and not binding, the lack of specified play can cause the steering gear to overheat due to excess friction and result in failure at the most un-opportune time.
  • The steering on my 97 Chevy extended cab feels "loose" on occasion, like maybe once or twice a month. The steering will feel normal, then for no apparent reason it will feel loose during the same trip. Then the next time I drive the truck, the steering feels normal (at least what I think is normal) and like I said, I won't have that problem again for several weeks.

    If the steering felt loose all the time, I think it might be the set screw on the gear box cdean mentioned, or am I wrong?

This discussion has been closed.