I just took delivery of my '99 Silverado Extended Cab 4x4 LS a couple of weeks ago, and so far the only complaint that I have with it is the AC. The weather here has been in the mid to upper 90's since I received the truck, and it seems that the truck never quite gets comfortable?
I go through the whole routine with the AC, open the windows for the first mile or so, start out with High/Recirculate, but if I then change to fresh air, the truck just never seems to get cool. If the sun is beating down on my side, it's just plain uncomfortable. If I leave it in recirculate, and set the fan to about 3, it seems all right, (at least I can hear myself think!), but it never reaches the point where I can simply turn it down. Granted, most of my trips are short, but the drive from work/home is about 25 minutes, and this should be plenty of time for things to cool off!
Is this just the nature of the beast (the "new" freon), or should I have the dealer check it? I have owned two other K1500's, an '86 and a '93, neither of which suffered this problem. Chevy also advertises in their literature that the Silverado has the "quickest cool down" of any half ton!
Thanks for any info.
By the way, what's up with the drive shaft! Is this thing going to hold up?
The new coolant used is not as good as cooling down. Just something we have to live with. also remember that everything in your truck is very hot after all day in the sun. the seats, the dash, and the sheet metal outside adding lots of heat also. The new Chevrolets are supposed to have a much larger AC cooling capacity than older versions.
I have friends with Fords that complain of the same thing.
Mine ('94) is much like yours, on a really hot day with the sun shining, the AC can barely keep you comfortable. but when the sun goes down, i damn near have to turn it off, it cools so quickly. I partially blame the dark colors of the paint and interior.
I have a 1999 Silverado Xcab Z71, I have a "clanking" sound when I go over small bumps at low/high speeds. Dealer said it was the spare, then the tailgate and then all make the noise and now GM rep says to replace rear springs... Also wind noise from 3rd door 1/4 glass, new latch did not help. Anyone with similar problems?
have you checked out the u-joints for clanking? My 98 had the same problem with the 3rd door and the dealer replaced the window latch and door weather striping. Hope this helps.
I installed Hyper-Tech tuning and at high speeds(above 90 mph) there is a roar coming from the back of vehicle. Gets real bad at 110. Also transmission will not perform a 3-4 full throttle upshift. Anyone had similar problems.
I've got a '96 C1500 and when it was getting up and over 100 degrees where I live, I would never run the air on high for long. In fact after a little highway driving, I'd have to turn the fan on low with outside air coming in or start to freeze. The '99s were supposed to have the "best air-conditioning" in all the new trucks, according to the propaganda, er, I mean brochure. Definately have it checked out, mabey not by the dealer, but by a 3rd party. Also, I don't have window tinting on my truck (other than the "too dark" factory rear windows), but it made a world of difference on my wife's car when we had it professionally tinted.
My '96 doesn't have the 3rd door. Sometimes I'd like to have it, but I've never been pleased with the quality of the craftsmanship on the doors I've seen from Chevy. The working is much like the old van rear doors. I've never known those to work well for long. But I've seen and used the Dodge 4 door ext cab pickup and those doors were solid as a rock. Opening and closing a passenger door on a Chevy with 3 doors and you feel if you do it too hard, it'll break!! Watch the 3rd door and body "bend" as you close it (soft or hard, doesn't matter). Makes me want to "open a can 'o whoopass" on a few GM engineers. I can live without the extra doors until they get it right.
On my new 99 Silverado I added a Lund bug deflector and now when I drive starting at 45 MPH the window gasket/trim flaps, changed dynamics of truck ? any suggestions or similar problems ?
Check out some of the other posts, I think everyone has had that problem with or without the deflector. I have seen two remedies, one is to use black sealer (some say this messes with the gasket) and the other is to put two sided tape underneath it. Chevy says this was designed to help the water flow up over the cab. I am taking mine in this week for this problem and the third window wind noise and driveline "clunks" at accel eration and low speed shifting. I have already had an "anticlunk" seal put in along with new rear springs and a latch for the window. Hope this helps and good luck.
I HAVE THE BIGGEST PROBLEM EVER ENCOUNTERED BY PURCHASING A CHEVY. I HAVE A SERIOUS VIBRATION COMING FROM THE REAR DRIVE TERRAIN OR THE PINION ANGLE. CHEVY DENIES THAT THIS IS A PROBLEM! I HAVE FOUR DEALERSHIPS TELLING ME THAT THEY ARE WORKING ON A FIX FOR IT. IF U CALL THE 800#, THEY SAY THEY HAVE NO REPORT OF A PROBLEM. I PULL GOOSENECK TRAILERS FOR MY BUSINESS AND I HAVE NO BACK-UP VEHICLE. I CANNOT AFFORD TO MISS A DAY OUT OF BUSINESS, AND THEY HAVE NO RENTAL OF THE SAME CALIAPER. I NEED TO GET IT FIXED OR GET IT BOUGHT BACK, THEN THEY CAN TAKE THE TIME THEY NEED TO FIX THEIR PROBLEM. I HAVE CALLED THE 800# 10 TIMES AND ALL I GET IS THE RUN-AROUND. WHAT NEXT? I JUST WANT OUT OF IT OR FIX IT THE FIRST TIME. I'M TIRED OF THE RUN-AROUND AND NOT GETTING THE ATTENTION THAT THIS MATTER NEEDS FROM CHEVROLET. THANKS FOR YOUR REPLYS. IF U HAVE ANY INFO, PLEASE E-MAIL ME AT WW225@GLORYROAD.NET THANKS
Has the problems with the fuel pumps been ironed out on the 1999 or 2000 models? We are considering buying a base model extended cab silverado but don't want to go there if the new ones have problems in those areas.
surzyn - Hey I have a 1997 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Z-71 and I have the loose steering problem too... Notify the dealer, it's a common problem with the new double pump steering system in 97. My truck is going in the shop tomorrow to get fixed. Hope this helps.
I am trying to decide wether or not to buy a 97 Chevy Extra cab Z-71 w/ the third door, 5.7ltr. I have heard a lot of complaints about the third. Has any one ever experienced any problems with the touch buttom 4Wd?
Thinking of purchasing a 94 chevy 1500 with a 350. Truck has 84,000 miles on it. anyone know of any problems with this rig?- I'm hoping to put on another 60,000 without breaking the bank= any help= or should I just buy new and trade in arounf 80,000 (roughly 4 yrs). I love the chevy's but have had a hard time finding a good price? This one is immaculate!!
MJHARRIS25: I have a '97 Z71 with the 5.7L third door and the Silverado option. With other than the brakes I have no problem, the third door is ok. So far I have 70K on the truck and it is fine, no repairs. Had to replace brakes and the front rotors.
One more thing: the push button 4wd works for me (it engages even when you stand still). It works on vacum and if the vacum intake is cloged the 4wd will not engage/disengage.
I have a 97 chev 3500 4x4 dually, this is the true pickup from hell!!!!!!! the first week I owned this vehicle , I went to the the dealership that I puchased it from and told them, that it wasn't turning in corners. It was hanging up, and I would have to jerk the steering wheel to get thru a corner. I also told them that it felt like I was driving on ice constantly, you know that the front end wasn't touching the ground. Just the fact that I am female, they felt that they could pat me on the head and tell me I was just imagining these problems. One month later I almost rear-ended a car, now the brakes aren't working. I returned to the dealer, guess what the steering gear had been broken and a chunk of it was hanging up when the pickup was turned. The brakes as of today 9/27/99 still don't work and I still feel that I am driving on ice. This is a scary thing as I haul a 3horse living quarter horse trailer 95% of the time. I fear for my daughter's life as well as my own and her horse's. I can't get anyone to figure the brakes, loose steering, the popping sound, or the shimy and shake that I experience. I forgot to mention that I also had rear axle seals leak, and the front brakes are the only ones working. I have had to replace them 3 times in 2 years and the rear brakes still have the factory stickers on them. Anyone want a headache for sale cheap.........
I also had the rear axle leaking and made the rear brakes useless. They had to replace the housing it was not manufactured correclty and the seal became oval, therefore the leak. Called the 800# and complained nicely but firm and GM even reimbursed me for the front break job after the warranty. it is a '97 K1500
I had a number of problems with my '97 Z71 with the 3rd door, including the following:
- 3rd door hung wrong (Hard lesson learned: When looking at a new vehicle, never assume something can be adjusted without verifying it!) This problem was never fixed because the dealer didn't want to mess with the welded hinges. They finally adjusted it where it would close properly but then it rattled incessantly. They said I could have it one way or the other.
- Steering problems -- Steering wheel would lock up during low speed maneuvering (parking, turning around, etc.). Took it to the dealer 4-5 times and they said "They all do that!" each time. This problem didn't start after about 15 mos/15k miles (past lemon law time limit) and it got progressively worse as time went by. The dealership never got this one fixed. The 800# "We're sorry" line is a joke. "It sounds like they're doing all they can...". Apparently, this problem afflicts some '97 and '98 speed-sensitive steering units. This is not the "sudden massive boost" problem that is a symptom of a bad speed sensor but quite the opposite kind of problem (there are about a dozen complaints on NHTSA regarding this particular problem).
- Blown fuel injector (finally fixed after 3 trips to dealer).
- Leaky rear axle.
- Pathetic brakes even after repeated adjustments by the dealership and myself. (I guess "they all do that!" after all...).
- Miscellaneous other problems not worth mentioning (weatherstripping falling off, etc.).
I got rid of the truck with 31k miles on it (thank goodness!). I test drove a new '99 Chevy Z71 3dr before coming to my senses (no more $$$ to GM!) and buying a different brand. That truck will be my last GM "engineering prototype" for a long time!
I thought there were no major differences between a 1996 and 1997 Z71. I have a 1996 Z71 with the 3rd door, has 95,000 miles on it and haven't had major problems with it. The only thing the dealer had to replace/fix under warranty was the fuel-pump relay. The steering wheel was replaced THREE TIMES. For some reason it kept peeling-off. Not suprise about the steering wheel, since I know GM leather is not exactly the best. With the exception of the fuel pump relay, I have not had any problems with it. It was even in a wreck. I thought it would not be the same, but it still keeps on going. Question. Where was your truck manufactured? U.S. or Canada?? (Look on the sticker on the driver's door jam). Another BB says vehicles built in Canada have better quality built into it. Mine was manufactured in Canada. I'm just curious to see if all those problematic Z71's were built in the U.S. I want to see how true the postings are on this BB. For now, I believe Candian automakers make better vehicles.
Hi, My '98 GMC Sierra Z71 was also made in Canada and it's been a dream machine so far (My only complaint is the mushy brake pedal, but I knew that before I bought it, and you do eventually get used to it). It only has 10,900 miles on it, but they've all been great. I'm even getting better gas mileage (averaging 20.6 mpg with the last 5 fill-ups) than most people with '99's and '00's are reporting. By the way, another way to tell if it's made in Canada is to look at your VIN. If it begins with a 1 it was made in the U.S. It it begins with a 2 it was made in Canada. It also says it on the window sticker if you kept that (I did!). I'm not sure if it matters too much where it was built, though. On other topics here, I've seen people complaining about the Canadian built ones. It's unfortunate, but I think there is a lot of luck involved in buying a new vehicle, and that goes for all makes and models, even Lexus, Cadillac, and BMW have their lemons (just read some of the posts in the Coupes and Sedans topics) and you pay a lot more for those. The best thing I can think to do is if you do get a car/truck that you like and has little or no problems, keep it for a long time. Most people are too eager to get new. -powerisfun
My truck has been fantastic! 51000 miles. Replaced rear pinion seal twice. Just had PMD (pump mounted driver) replaced because of intermitant stalling. All repairs under warranty with excellent service.
There is a fix for the alternating high low steering effort problem. The steering wheel positionsensor which is mounted on the base of the steering shaft inside the truck almost at the firewall. I had mine replaced under warranty and it fixed the problem. It seems they had a batch of bad ones.
I have a 1999 silverardo pickup truck. It has 29000 miles at this time,and it semms to be using a quart of oil about ever 1500 miles.Has anyone elelse had this problem'
Guys with the 5.7 hanging throttle problem, I too have that problem. I've got a '98 K2500 Ext.Cab with 4.10 gears. The truck has about 22K miles on it, about a third of the miles with a 6000# trailer attached. I noticed the problem after the first month (bought the truck last October), said something to the dealer and was told they couldn't get it to duplicate it for them. I take it back every couple of weeks for this problem, usually get the same response. This last time (3 weeks ago), I was told they have heard about this on other trucks, don't know what's causing it. Didn't ever say it was 'normal' to me, just that they couldn't finger the problem. My previous truck was a '93 K-5 Blazer same motor, but non-Vortec, and 700R4 tranny and NEVER had this problem. This is the ONLY real problem I have with this truck, so all in all I feel pretty luck compared to some of you out there, but man this one does get interesting at times. I'm downshifting to 2nd when it acts up, maybe not good for the tranny but it's better than running over a car.
Just out of curiosity where was your truck made? It should say it on the original price sticker if you still have it. Alternatively, you can look at the VIN number. If it begins with a 2, it was made in Canada, and if it begins with a 1, it was made in USA. Thanks. -powerisfun
The first number is a 1, built in good ol' USA. So, I guess that means I got one of the problem children huh? It's strange to me because I work on Canadian designed and built aircraft for a living and I always said that those were bassakwards in more ways than one.
I'm not sure if there REALLY is any relevance to where it was made, but it's been pointed out in some of the previous posts that the Canadian ones seem to be built better. Mine is Canadian-built and it's been a dream so far, but I only have 11,300 miles on it, so it's not really been tested yet. I've heard people complain about the Canadian quality in other subjects, so there's probably no difference. It's all just luck, I think. Good luck with the throttle problem and let me know if it ever gets fixed, in case mine starts doing it. -powerisfun
I have 67000 miles on mine and nothing but trouble out of the brakes. The front pads have been changed 3 times the roters turned once and the brake booster has gone out!
I had a clanging problem with mine, but come to find out it was just rocks in my skid plates. I found this out by accident, I was under the truck doing something else and happened to remove the rocks from my skid plates and there was no more clanging noise. I get rocks in there from time to time, but no longer worry about it.
Yeah, the brakes on these trucks are not up to par from what other owners have said. I've not had any trouble yet on my '98 Z71, but mine is too new to tell (11,350 miles). They probably should have put the same brakes that they put on the 3/4 ton trucks on the 1/2 tons. At how many miles did your brake pads first need replaced? I use my x-cab truck simply as a big car and with with a lot of trunk space (At 20.7 mpg it's not as big a gas hog as I was expecting either). Do you do a lot of hauling or towing and/or a lot of stop-and-go driving? I assume yours is a '96-'99 C/K pickup. Did the warranty cover any of your problems?
Other than the brakes, how do you like the rest of the truck? I love mine, and I like the looks better than the new ones, but I'm interested in others opinions. I'm really happy with the power and the gas mileage (especially since I'm at 5600 ft. altitude). Also where was your truck made? (See above posts if you're not sure).
That's interesting about the clanking of the skid plates. I'll have to remember to check that if I ever hear a rattling or clanking noise. Thanks. -powerisfun
Well after one "anti-clunk" seal, new rear springs and now new u-joints, the clunk noise is gone.....for now. Went out and drove around today and thought I heard a quieter version of it. It was not rocks in the skid plates, this was a definite "looseness" in the rearend/driveshaft. Still waiting on 3rd door 1/4 glass to come in. If that takes care of the noise inside, hell I just might keep the thing
I guess I am lucky when it comes to brakes. I am able to do all the repair work myself. I replaced my first set of front pads about 30000 and about 15000 for the next two sets. The strange thing is though that the back pads have not worn out yet, they are still the factory pads. The only problems I had, other than brakes, while under warrenty, was I had a short in the battery and the rear diff. seal started leaking. Those are nothing major, I could have done it myself, but said what the hell it is under warrenty. I do a lot of heavy hauling with mine and love it. In the Ozark mountains and a heavy load it is not that hard to forget that you have a load or trailer behind you. The only other thing I wish that I would have taken care of at the dealership is the tires. It came with Goodyear Wrangler RTS and I usually had a flat about every other week from about 5000 miles on. I finally sprung for some bridgestone 10 plys, no more problems. One more thing have you guys had problems with the spring and cable system of the passenger seat. Even though it has had its problems I still think that the Z71 space cab is the caddy of trucks and love it. More that enough power and comfort. I am 6'1" and my wife is 6'. when we test drove trucks we did the fords and the dodges. The Chevys definatly have the most cab space and the only one that I can strech out fully in it. When I grad college, like my wife we will definatly get another chevy, probably a SUV though. I am also planning on trading in mine when it gets about 150,000 mi on it.
canfield2, It's interesting that the back brakes are still the factory set. I wonder if that means the problem you're experiencing with the front pads is because the back brakes aren't engaging to the extent they should be when you step on the brake pedal. Maybe that's a problem with all of the pre'99 trucks. I know with my truck, when I use the parking brake, I really have to put it all the way to the floor to get it to engage. I wonder if that's related somehow. Regarding the Goodyear tires, someone here in my town told me that he had two flats within a few miles while "off-roading" on a gravel road. He had to get towed because he used his spare on the first flat. What a bummer. I was thinking it was just a coincidence or something (like maybe he ran over glass or nails and didn't realize it), but from what you say, it appears these tires really suck (or I guess "blow" would be the more correct word). I was going to replace my rims in a few months (just to give it a different look), maybe I'll replace the tires as well (and try to sell the rims and tires as a package). Yeah, I tend to like Chevy/GMC as well for trucks. However, if you go with the midsize SUV, go with the Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer. I had one and loved it. I traded it in for this pick-up though, because I didn't really need an SUV, plus I had a bunch of discounts for a GM product (GM card rebate, college grad rebate, manufacturer's rebate) that were about to expire and I'd always wanted an x-cab pick-up. For full-sized SUV, I'd go with Tahoe/Yukon over the Expedition. I don't know enough about the new Excursion to recommend that over the Suburban/Yukon-XL. What a monster, though! -powerisfun
I have a 97 k1500 and tow a 6,000 lb trailer. Truck has 24000 miles on it an love it. Heard a hum from the rear end and took it to the dealer. The replaced the rear carrier diff. bearings.
A mech. talk show says this is a common problem with 1/2 ton chevys.
I imagine towing would hasten that problem and I haven't yet towed anything with my '98 GMC. Plus I only have 11,300 miles on it as it is. Was it a loud hum? Like a grinding noise? Thanks for the warning and good luck with your Chevy. -powerisfun
Sorry to be the dissenting vote but my problem-plagued '97 was made in Oshawa, Ontario.
I'd forgotten that I experienced the "hanging throttle" problem. It used to stick right at 1500 RPM. It's like the computer was busy wondering if it should shift and forgot to check the TPS input to see if the gas pedal had been released. I never even got around to complaining about that one because I considered the steering and brakes to be the worst problem.
I even adjusted the brakes on that truck every 6,000 miles--a fat lot of good that did! Did automatic adjusters actually work back in the 80's and 70's or is it just the lack of asbestos in the brake pads now?
By the way, the dealer replaced the steering speed sensor on my truck at least once (I can't remember if they replaced it again on a subsequent visit--they had the truck 4 or 5 times for the steering problem without fixing it). It didn't do much, if anything to fix my "sticky steering" problem. I never had the "full unexpected boost" problem that is a classic symptom of the steering sensor's death. They also rebuilt, then replaced the steering gearbox upon the factory tech's recommendation. No difference either time. Finally, they offered to put an older (96 or beyond non variable-assist) unit on it but they warned me people had complained about those units, also (there's something I really wanted to hear!). I told them I'd get back to them and promptly traded the truck. My life has been much less stressful since then. I've only visited the dealership once with the new truck and that trip was to get a keyless entry fob. I've put 5500 miles on the truck with no service-related trips to the dealer--that never happened last time. Oh, by the way, did I mention the new truck is not a GM product?
Ironically, my brother-in-law has a '97 Chevy K1500 Z71 that was made in Michigan. The only difference between his truck and my former truck is his doesn't have the third door and he has leather interior. He's had almost no problems with his truck in 50,000 miles (he drives a lot) and he doesn't even take good care of his vehicles! I must just be a GM junk magnet... I wonder if you can buy "Official GM Beta Tester" T-shirts?
Well, that blows the Canadian theory! Sorry that you had so much trouble. You might want to give GM another try in a few years (wait till they've gotten the bugs out of the new trucks, though). Like I said, I haven't had one problem with my '98 (with 11,500 miles now). It's the best vehicle I've ever owned. Anyway, glad to hear your new truck is doing great! What brand and type (4WD, 1/2 ton, x-cab, etc.?) is it? -powerisfun
Since we're eligible for a discount on GM vehicles, I'm sure I'll back down on the anti-GM sentiment in a few years. I'd sworn them off twice before (due to vehicle fall-apart) but I relented because the discount places the cost of a new GM at about the same as a slightly-used competitor's vehicle. I even test drove a '99 Silverado Z71 Ext. Cab before buying something else. I was a little too afraid to buy a first model year GM considering the problems I'd had with the 9th model year truck. I'll see how they hold up in the long run.
My new(er) truck is a '99 Dodge Quad Cab 1/2 ton 4x4. This is my first Chrysler product. It was 6 months old when I bought it--it had 13,500 contractor-driven miles on it. I'm not sure how well it was cared for, but I'm hoping 13,500 miles is too few to harm it. The price was very reasonable, so I took a chance. The truck has a high step-in height, it rides like a truck (go figure), the 318 engine can't compare to the Chevy 350, and the cloth interior isn't as nice as the one on my '97 Chevy--basically, everything Popular Mechanics says about the Dodge trucks is true. If you want a truck that rides like a Lexus, don't buy a Dodge. On the other hand, I wanted a truck, not a family sedan. The truck handles amazingly well for something that's so tall (absolutely no body lean on curves), the steering actually works, and the truck stops when I hit the brake pedal (no squishy feel). You can stand in the engine compartment. Everything on the truck is simple (sans replacing the fuel filter). The four doors open and close properly without having to slam them over and over again. Best of all, I haven't had to visit the service department yet. Come to think of it, there's nothing I'd change so far. I don't know how it will hold up in the long run (these trucks seem to have lots of transmission problems) but it's been OK so far. I won't be trying to race any Chevys, though.
I too bought GM because of discounts. I had the GM card rebate (-$2300), the college grad rebate (-$400), the manf. rebate (-$1000), and it was bought when the first '99's just came out and the dealer still had a whole fleet of '98's left. He gave the '98 to me at below invoice just to move them out (all the rebates came off after the below invoice price, I figure he made about $400 on the dealer holdback in the end, though). I ended up getting a $29,658 MSRP truck for $21,500 including TTL. I couldn't pass up that deal. I think I could drive it for another year and still sell it for what I paid if I wanted to, but I don't. I just paid off the loan, and I'm hoping to keep it for at least 10 years. I hate auto payments! I knew too not to even think about a first-year vehicle (i.e. the '99 trucks) from GM. From what I'm hearing the 2000's aren't much better (still have vibrations and clunking drivelines). Probably won't have those bugs completely worked out till 2002 or so. I envy you your 4th door on your quad-cab. I have the 3rd door and that's such a great convenience. I wish it were on the driver's side, though. I occasionally do have to re-slam the passenger door because of the third-door flex, but it's not a problem yet. I'm also leary of the independent front suspension (IFS). The Dodges still have full-front axles, which is one reason they "ride like a truck", but they're bullet-proof. Dodge is supposed to be brining back the Hemi-head engine, so that may be worth looking into in a few years. Anyway, best of luck with yours. -powerisfun
Yes, the fourth door is very, very nice. Unfortunately, it does seem like the Dodge cab is smaller than the '97 Chevy and is definitely smaller than the '99 Chevy's cab. With a child seat behind me in the Dodge, I had to keep the driver's seat pushed too far forward to sit comfortably. Thus, I had to move the child seat to the middle of the back seat. I seem to remember having more room in the Chevy's cab although I'm not sure the back seat was as deep as the one in the Dodge...
I do like the solid axle and coil spring setup on the Dodge. I always wanted to stiffen the Chevy's suspension to control body lean--that's not an issue with the Dodge. That's interesting about the return of the hemi--I wonder if it can meet modern emissions standards?
I hope you get good service out of your Chevy. I've known several people who have had really good luck with them regardless of how they treated the vehicle. I thought the law of averages would catch up with me eventually! Maybe next time.
the dodge had a weak front end for plowing at least until 99 i think daimler did something about that though the showroom truck we just looked at seemed beefier
had 450 dollars in brake work done to my 91 chevy k1500 did not correct the dangerously weak brakes anyone know if this is common and any fix we are all thought out.
Well, I'm not sure how common it is. I have a '98 GMC Sierra. I agree the brake pedal is mushy, but I've never had problems stopping and I've had to panic-stop a few times. It has 4-wheel ABS, though. Maybe that's the difference. Also, I don't do any towing or heavy hauling (I have a hard tonneau cover so I basically use it as a big car with a huge trunk). Two possible suggestions: 1) Pay for the dealer to install the bigger brake components of the K2500 if possible, or 2) I noticed in the JCWhitney catalog that they have rear-wheel drum-to-disc conversion kits (cost about $650). Having rear disc brakes may help considerably.
Both of those options will be fairly costly, though.
Seems like some of you have experienced brake problems. I did with my 97 Silverado and each time the dealer would say that they took it for a road test and the truck was fine.
So I used my favorite tool, a pyrometer. Seemed like when the brakes acted up the right front brake rotor was always hotter than the left. The rear drums were always much the same temperature.
This took some explaining to the dealer and after several trips and a "show'n tell they realized that maybe there was a problem. Finally after one visit, the brakes seemed fine (still are, the pedal is firmer, no pull or wheel lock). Asked the dealer what they had done. the reply was that they suspected air in the brake hydraulic system. The ABS brake system evidently the process is difficult and must be done correctly. Never explained how the system got that way. I had the truck since new, unless they tried doing something when I first complained.
But the pyrometer tells me that both front rotors are close to equal temperature and have not had any problems for the last 12,000 miles.
Interesting experiment with the pyrometer. Would just a regular thermometer to the trick or are the brakes too hot for most thermometers? Thanks for the tip. If I ever have trouble, I'll check that. -powerisfun
No, I don't think a thermometer would be practical. Pyrometer are quick to give a readout and are safe to use in "hot spots"
Starting using the pyrometer on an earlier Camero that had a performance problem. Measure the exhaust manifold ports to quickly establish an average then the readings that are hotter than the average indicate the cylinder is running lean. If it is running cooler, then the cylinder is running rich.
It sure helped resolve my performance problems. The pyrometer, vacuum gauge and DVM are my favorite tools and always at the ready. It helps me deal with the dealer, especially when I have problems getting them to understand.
They seem to think that I have all the time in the world to deal with my vehicle's problems. It is also a shock to learn that most professional mechanics have problems with ohm's law.
Anyway it has been a help in dealing with the problems with GM vehicles that I have owned, especially the computer controlled ones.
You might ask why I keep going to GM? It is kinda like "it is better to deal with the devil you think you know"
I own a 1997 Chev Z71 with 71,000 miles. The trouble I'm having is that when I shift into 4-Lo, it pops out and it won't shift gears when it does stay in gear, which is not very often. I haven't had any other problems out of the truck and this problem just started. The 4-Hi works fine. Any suggestions?
Comments
I go through the whole routine with the AC, open the windows for the first mile or so, start out with High/Recirculate, but if I then change to fresh air, the truck just never seems to get cool. If the sun is beating down on my side, it's just plain uncomfortable. If I leave it in recirculate, and set the fan to about 3, it seems all right, (at least I can hear myself think!), but it never reaches the point where I can simply turn it down. Granted, most of my trips are short, but the drive from work/home is about 25 minutes, and this should be plenty of time for things to cool off!
Is this just the nature of the beast (the "new" freon), or should I have the dealer check it? I have owned two other K1500's, an '86 and a '93, neither of which suffered this problem. Chevy also advertises in their literature that the Silverado has the "quickest cool down" of any half ton!
Thanks for any info.
By the way, what's up with the drive shaft! Is this thing going to hold up?
I have friends with Fords that complain of the same thing.
Mine ('94) is much like yours, on a really hot day with the sun shining, the AC can barely keep you comfortable. but when the sun goes down, i damn near have to turn it off, it cools so quickly. I partially blame the dark colors of the paint and interior.
"clanking" sound when I go over small bumps at
low/high speeds. Dealer said it was the spare,
then the tailgate and then all make the noise
and now GM rep says to replace rear springs...
Also wind noise from 3rd door 1/4 glass, new
latch did not help. Anyone with similar problems?
My 98 had the same problem with the 3rd door and the dealer replaced the window latch and door weather striping. Hope this helps.
My '96 doesn't have the 3rd door. Sometimes I'd like to have it, but I've never been pleased with the quality of the craftsmanship on the doors I've seen from Chevy. The working is much like the old van rear doors. I've never known those to work well for long. But I've seen and used the Dodge 4 door ext cab pickup and those doors were solid as a rock. Opening and closing a passenger door on a Chevy with 3 doors and you feel if you do it too hard, it'll break!! Watch the 3rd door and body "bend" as you close it (soft or hard, doesn't matter). Makes me want to "open a can 'o whoopass" on a few GM engineers. I can live without the extra doors until they get it right.
My 2 cents...
everyone has had that problem with or without the
deflector. I have seen two remedies, one is to
use black sealer (some say this messes with the
gasket) and the other is to put two sided tape
underneath it. Chevy says this was designed to help the water flow up over the cab. I am taking
mine in this week for this problem and the third
window wind noise and driveline "clunks" at accel
eration and low speed shifting. I have already had an "anticlunk" seal put in along with new rear
springs and a latch for the window. Hope this helps and good luck.
THANKS
Truck has 84,000 miles on it. anyone know of any problems with this rig?- I'm hoping to put on another 60,000 without breaking the bank= any help= or should I just buy new and trade in arounf 80,000 (roughly 4 yrs). I love the chevy's but have had a hard time finding a good price? This one is immaculate!!
pickup from hell!!!!!!! the first week I owned this vehicle , I went to the the dealership that I puchased it from and told them, that it wasn't turning in corners. It was hanging up, and I would
have to jerk the steering wheel to get thru a corner. I also told them that it felt like I was driving on ice constantly, you know that the front end wasn't touching the ground. Just the fact that I am female, they felt that they could pat me on the head and tell me I was just imagining these problems. One month later I almost
rear-ended a car, now the brakes aren't working. I returned to the dealer, guess what the steering gear had been broken and a chunk of it was hanging up when the pickup was turned. The brakes
as of today 9/27/99 still don't work and I still feel that I am driving on ice. This is a scary thing as I haul a 3horse living quarter horse trailer 95% of the time. I fear for my daughter's
life as well as my own and her horse's. I can't get anyone to figure the brakes, loose steering, the popping sound, or the shimy and shake that I
experience. I forgot to mention that I also had
rear axle seals leak, and the front brakes are the only ones working. I have had to replace them 3 times in 2 years and the rear brakes still have the factory stickers on them. Anyone want a headache for sale cheap.........
- 3rd door hung wrong (Hard lesson learned: When looking at a new vehicle, never assume something can be adjusted without verifying it!) This problem was never fixed because the dealer didn't want to mess with the welded hinges. They finally adjusted it where it would close properly but then it rattled incessantly. They said I could have it one way or the other.
- Steering problems -- Steering wheel would lock up during low speed maneuvering (parking, turning around, etc.). Took it to the dealer 4-5 times and they said "They all do that!" each time. This problem didn't start after about 15 mos/15k miles (past lemon law time limit) and it got progressively worse as time went by. The dealership never got this one fixed. The 800# "We're sorry" line is a joke. "It sounds like they're doing all they can...". Apparently, this problem afflicts some '97 and '98 speed-sensitive steering units. This is not the "sudden massive boost" problem that is a symptom of a bad speed sensor but quite the opposite kind of problem (there are about a dozen complaints on NHTSA regarding this particular problem).
- Blown fuel injector (finally fixed after 3 trips to dealer).
- Leaky rear axle.
- Pathetic brakes even after repeated adjustments by the dealership and myself. (I guess "they all do that!" after all...).
- Miscellaneous other problems not worth mentioning (weatherstripping falling off, etc.).
I got rid of the truck with 31k miles on it (thank goodness!). I test drove a new '99 Chevy Z71 3dr before coming to my senses (no more $$$ to GM!) and buying a different brand. That truck will be my last GM "engineering prototype" for a long time!
between a 1996 and 1997 Z71. I have a 1996
Z71 with the 3rd door, has 95,000 miles on it
and haven't had major problems with it. The only
thing the dealer had to replace/fix under
warranty was the fuel-pump relay. The steering
wheel was replaced THREE TIMES. For some reason
it kept peeling-off. Not suprise about the
steering wheel, since I know GM leather is
not exactly the best. With the exception of the
fuel pump relay, I have not had any problems
with it. It was even in a wreck. I thought it
would not be the same, but it still keeps on
going. Question. Where was your truck manufactured? U.S. or Canada?? (Look on the
sticker on the driver's door jam). Another
BB says vehicles built in Canada have better
quality built into it. Mine was manufactured
in Canada. I'm just curious to see if all those
problematic Z71's were built in the U.S. I want
to see how true the postings are on this BB.
For now, I believe Candian automakers make
better vehicles.
My '98 GMC Sierra Z71 was also made in Canada and it's been a dream machine so far (My only complaint is the mushy brake pedal, but I knew that before I bought it, and you do eventually get used to it). It only has 10,900 miles on it, but they've all been great. I'm even getting better gas mileage (averaging 20.6 mpg with the last 5 fill-ups) than most people with '99's and '00's are reporting.
By the way, another way to tell if it's made in Canada is to look at your VIN. If it begins with a 1 it was made in the U.S. It it begins with a 2 it was made in Canada. It also says it on the window sticker if you kept that (I did!). I'm not sure if it matters too much where it was built, though. On other topics here, I've seen people
complaining about the Canadian built ones. It's unfortunate, but I think there is a lot of luck involved in buying a new vehicle, and that goes for all makes and models, even Lexus, Cadillac, and BMW have their lemons (just read some of the posts in the Coupes and Sedans topics) and you pay a lot more for those. The best thing I can think to do is if you do get a car/truck that you like and has little or no problems, keep it for a long time. Most people are too eager to get new.
-powerisfun
Replaced rear pinion seal twice.
Just had PMD (pump mounted driver) replaced because of intermitant stalling. All repairs under warranty with excellent service.
--
The Garage Mahal
http://uscom.com/~hoot/
Also, any ideas for improving tailgate function? Mine is hard to open and close.
Thanks,
Cathy
It should say it on the original price sticker if you still have it. Alternatively, you can look at the VIN number. If it begins with a 2, it was made in Canada, and if it begins with a 1, it was made in USA. Thanks.
-powerisfun
planemech
-powerisfun
Other than the brakes, how do you like the rest of the truck? I love mine, and I like the looks better than the new ones, but I'm interested in others opinions. I'm really happy with the power and the gas mileage (especially since I'm at 5600 ft. altitude). Also where was your truck made?
(See above posts if you're not sure).
That's interesting about the clanking of the skid plates. I'll have to remember to check that if I ever hear a rattling or clanking noise. Thanks.
-powerisfun
springs and now new u-joints, the clunk noise
is gone.....for now. Went out and drove around today and thought I heard a quieter version of it.
It was not rocks in the skid plates, this was a
definite "looseness" in the rearend/driveshaft.
Still waiting on 3rd door 1/4 glass to come in.
If that takes care of the noise inside, hell I
just might keep the thing
It's interesting that the back brakes are still the factory set. I wonder if that means the problem you're experiencing with the front pads is because the back brakes aren't engaging to the extent they should be when you step on the brake pedal. Maybe that's a problem with all of the pre'99 trucks. I know with my truck, when I use the parking brake, I really have to put it all the way to the floor to get it to engage. I wonder if that's related somehow.
Regarding the Goodyear tires, someone here in my town told me that he had two flats within a few miles while "off-roading" on a gravel road. He had to get towed because he used his spare on the first flat. What a bummer. I was thinking it was just a coincidence or something (like maybe he ran over glass or nails and didn't realize it), but from what you say, it appears these tires really suck (or I guess "blow" would be the more correct word). I was going to replace my rims in a few months (just to give it a different look), maybe I'll replace the tires as well (and try to sell the rims and tires as a package).
Yeah, I tend to like Chevy/GMC as well for trucks. However, if you go with the midsize SUV,
go with the Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer. I had one and loved it. I traded it in for this pick-up though, because I didn't really need an SUV, plus I had a bunch of discounts for a GM product (GM card rebate, college grad rebate, manufacturer's rebate) that were about to expire and I'd always wanted an x-cab pick-up. For full-sized SUV, I'd go with Tahoe/Yukon over the Expedition. I don't know enough about the new Excursion to recommend that over the Suburban/Yukon-XL. What a monster, though!
-powerisfun
A mech. talk show says this is a common problem with 1/2 ton chevys.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Thanks for the warning and good luck with your Chevy.
-powerisfun
I looked at the bearings and the races were slightly scoured. If it would have gone on it could have lunched the entire diff.
The load should not make a diff. since it is in the ratings for the truck IMHO>
I'd forgotten that I experienced the "hanging throttle" problem. It used to stick right at 1500 RPM. It's like the computer was busy wondering if it should shift and forgot to check the TPS input to see if the gas pedal had been released. I never even got around to complaining about that one because I considered the steering and brakes to be the worst problem.
I even adjusted the brakes on that truck every 6,000 miles--a fat lot of good that did! Did automatic adjusters actually work back in the 80's and 70's or is it just the lack of asbestos in the brake pads now?
By the way, the dealer replaced the steering speed sensor on my truck at least once (I can't remember if they replaced it again on a subsequent visit--they had the truck 4 or 5 times for the steering problem without fixing it). It didn't do much, if anything to fix my "sticky steering" problem. I never had the "full unexpected boost" problem that is a classic symptom of the steering sensor's death. They also rebuilt, then replaced the steering gearbox upon the factory tech's recommendation. No difference either time. Finally, they offered to put an older (96 or beyond non variable-assist) unit on it but they warned me people had complained about those units, also (there's something I really wanted to hear!). I told them I'd get back to them and promptly traded the truck. My life has been much less stressful since then. I've only visited the dealership once with the new truck and that trip was to get a keyless entry fob. I've put 5500 miles on the truck with no service-related trips to the dealer--that never happened last time. Oh, by the way, did I mention the new truck is not a GM product?
Ironically, my brother-in-law has a '97 Chevy K1500 Z71 that was made in Michigan. The only difference between his truck and my former truck is his doesn't have the third door and he has leather interior. He's had almost no problems with his truck in 50,000 miles (he drives a lot) and he doesn't even take good care of his vehicles! I must just be a GM junk magnet... I wonder if you can buy "Official GM Beta Tester" T-shirts?
--Tom
-powerisfun
My new(er) truck is a '99 Dodge Quad Cab 1/2 ton 4x4. This is my first Chrysler product. It was 6 months old when I bought it--it had 13,500 contractor-driven miles on it. I'm not sure how well it was cared for, but I'm hoping 13,500 miles is too few to harm it. The price was very reasonable, so I took a chance. The truck has a high step-in height, it rides like a truck (go figure), the 318 engine can't compare to the Chevy 350, and the cloth interior isn't as nice as the one on my '97 Chevy--basically, everything Popular Mechanics says about the Dodge trucks is true. If you want a truck that rides like a Lexus, don't buy a Dodge. On the other hand, I wanted a truck, not a family sedan. The truck handles amazingly well for something that's so tall (absolutely no body lean on curves), the steering actually works, and the truck stops when I hit the brake pedal (no squishy feel). You can stand in the engine compartment. Everything on the truck is simple (sans replacing the fuel filter). The four doors open and close properly without having to slam them over and over again. Best of all, I haven't had to visit the service department yet. Come to think of it, there's nothing I'd change so far. I don't know how it will hold up in the long run (these trucks seem to have lots of transmission problems) but it's been OK so far. I won't be trying to race any Chevys, though.
--Tom(fingers crossed)C.
I knew too not to even think about a first-year vehicle (i.e. the '99 trucks) from GM. From what I'm hearing the 2000's aren't much better (still have vibrations and clunking drivelines). Probably won't have those bugs completely worked out till 2002 or so.
I envy you your 4th door on your quad-cab. I have the 3rd door and that's such a great convenience. I wish it were on the driver's side, though. I occasionally do have to re-slam the passenger door because of the third-door flex, but it's not a problem yet. I'm also leary of the independent front suspension (IFS). The Dodges still have full-front axles, which is one reason they "ride like a truck", but they're bullet-proof. Dodge is supposed to be brining back the Hemi-head engine, so that may be worth looking into in a few years. Anyway, best of luck with yours.
-powerisfun
I do like the solid axle and coil spring setup on the Dodge. I always wanted to stiffen the Chevy's suspension to control body lean--that's not an issue with the Dodge. That's interesting about the return of the hemi--I wonder if it can meet modern emissions standards?
I hope you get good service out of your Chevy. I've known several people who have had really good luck with them regardless of how they treated the vehicle. I thought the law of averages would catch up with me eventually! Maybe next time.
--TomC
Two possible suggestions: 1) Pay for the dealer to install the bigger brake components of the K2500 if possible, or 2) I noticed in the JCWhitney catalog that they have rear-wheel drum-to-disc conversion kits (cost about $650). Having rear disc brakes may help considerably.
Both of those options will be fairly costly, though.
Good luck!
-powerisfun
So I used my favorite tool, a pyrometer. Seemed like when the brakes acted up the right front brake rotor was always hotter than the left. The rear drums were always much the same temperature.
This took some explaining to the dealer and after several trips and a "show'n tell they realized that maybe there was a problem. Finally after one visit, the brakes seemed fine (still are, the pedal is firmer, no pull or wheel lock). Asked the dealer what they had done. the reply was that they suspected air in the brake hydraulic system. The ABS brake system evidently the process is difficult and must be done correctly. Never explained how the system got that way. I had the truck since new, unless they tried doing something when I first complained.
But the pyrometer tells me that both front rotors are close to equal temperature and have not had any problems for the last 12,000 miles.
-powerisfun
Starting using the pyrometer on an earlier Camero that had a performance problem. Measure the exhaust manifold ports to quickly establish an average then the readings that are hotter than the average indicate the cylinder is running lean. If it is running cooler, then the cylinder is running rich.
It sure helped resolve my performance problems. The pyrometer, vacuum gauge and DVM are my favorite tools and always at the ready. It helps me deal with the dealer, especially when I have problems getting them to understand.
They seem to think that I have all the time in the world to deal with my vehicle's problems. It is also a shock to learn that most professional mechanics have problems with ohm's law.
Anyway it has been a help in dealing with the problems with GM vehicles that I have owned, especially the computer controlled ones.
You might ask why I keep going to GM? It is kinda like "it is better to deal with the devil you think you know"
Cheers