Hey, we smoked out a real tech in here too. Thanks, Wtd. (although I'm not excited about crawling under my running Quest, especially since there's so little clearance under there to begin with).
Major good point! Maybe a set of ramps for the front wheels, or a couple of hydraulic floor jacks would be in order. Safety should dictate the procedure, at any rate. No sense getting hurt.
It was the fuel pressure regulator. So, $354 later I can rest easy that my wife wont be stranded somewhere with the kids.
The van has 54K on it this is the 2nd repair I've had done, both have been on the fuel system. I had a fuel injector replace under warranty and now the fuel pressure regulator.
GREAT GUESS .........probably the power transistor (ign. module) common problem with villager/quest "runs good cold, craps out as it warms up" usually trips no codes in obd1 systems usually costs around $40.00
I hope someone here has an idea. It is a 1995 villager and the only way to start the vehicle is to pump the gas repeatedly during cranking. It is especially worse during cold weather becomeing progressively better the hotter it get. In the winter here in Ohio it nearly kills the battery at times. Allowing and waiting for the fuel pressure to come up does not help. It has been to a dealer as well as 2 non-dealer machanic's. With no improvement at all. (unless you count my loss of money as thier improvement)LOL The injectors have been cleaned and no one has found any other problem at any of the shops. I have checked all the codes with none stored. All sensors have been "back probed" and all voltages are in range and the voltages vary with thottle change. I am out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks in advance.
It almost sounds to me like a fuel pump issue. Have you had that tested to see if you have adequate pressure? IIRC, I had the fuel pump replaced in my 1993 Villager for the same reason.
Thanks kymike, did you also have a good running engine after it was started? Mine runs fine after it starts. I am not sure if the fuel pump was ever checked.
I don't know if anybody have a similar problems that I experienced. Initially whenever I started the engine and put it in reverse/drive the car will not move and just shake. I have to turn the ignition OFF and restart so that it will move until such time that the car will just stalled and the check engine will lights ON. I brought the car to vespia and technician told me that the transmission and solenoid are bad. Agreed to replace the transmission and solenoid that cost me 1650.00. After driving the car home and test it for an hour power starts to degrade and stalled. Brought it back to vespia and tech do the tune-up, replaced the distribution cap but that didn't fix my problem. Decided to bring the car to the dealer and recommended to have the shaft sensor and fuel injector clean up that again gonna cost me 400.00 to my Nissan Quest GXe 1996. Any advice is appreciated.
Hi! I am having the same problems, just about. I have had the distributor, spark plugs, and fuel filter replaced. It surges and when it stalls, it's especially in idle, particularly when the air conditioning is on. Any advice is appreciated!!! :confuse: katts91@hotmail.com -Jennifer
I had a similar problem with My 93 Villager and it would come and go but basically after driving most noticeably on longer highway trips, I would see a lot of power and hesitation when trying to keep at a constant speed. Eventually, I had the oxygen sensor replaced and it has been fine ever since.
We just moved to Colorado from Florida and after about 2 weeks here in this higher altitude the van started stalling at any speed, but mostly when I had driven on the highway for a while and then it would stall after stopping. Gas hissed when removing cap. (It was also a hotter set of days in the upper 90's when this started happening) Would let set for 30 minutes or so and start again only to get 15 miles or so. Stopped car overnight at home and removed gas cap next day before driving and van seems to run better. Was told by someone problem could be with thermostat so just for cheap kicks I will go ahead and try replacing it. Have also tried injector cleaner and octane booster too, along with expensive premium gas. Any help would be appreciated as gas vapors get very heavy when we drive with the gas cap off.
Hi, We are in golden Colorado right now with the exact same problem. We have a 97 villager van. We just arrived from florida. The van stalled on the interstate 15 minutes before we entered colorado. It sat for 15 minutes, started up and we havent had the problem till we drove all day up look out mountain then to boulder and back and it did it again. Did your mechanic find the problem? Please help because we are baffled and are very scared to drive all the way back to Florida with the van acting this way. Could you give us the name of someone around denver area to fix the problem? Golden colorodo and the area are so beautiful- we just wish our van wasn't having such a hard time here! :-)
I have a 95 Villager that has exhibited the stalling at highway speeds in hot weather problem. I understand that Ford has a technical service bulletin (96-25-22) that explains that the fuel pump is suspect and an upgraded fuel pump is reccommended. This is difficult to test for in the shop,,,,but my understanding is that the fuel pressure drops low enough during highway driving in hot weather that the pressure is not high enough to keep the gasoline in the liquid state. This gasoline vaporizes and the engine stalls..........wait 20-30 minutes and it will start and run normally.......for a while.
Yesterday my van would not start. All the lights on the dashboard came on, but nothing happened when I turned the key - no clicking nothing. So I had the car towed to a gas station in my town. I was later told that it needed a new starter as well as an oil change. Bill came to $288. I said fine. Then 2 hours later I get a phone call from the mechanic telling me that my car now needs a complete tune up - that its misfiring and running on 5 cylinders instead of 6. Told me it must have been doing this before I brought my van in. I told him no - everything was fine until it would not start. He said complete tune up would cost $290 so my bill would now be $578. He said I did not have to get the tune up now that my van was driveable. I said ok I would wait and went to pick up my car.
I could not leave the parking lot. The van was shaking so much I thought my engine would fall out. And it smelled like rotton eggs. I asked the mechanic how he thought this was driveable. So I had to leave my car and now my bill is very high.
Is all of this normal because I feel like I got ripped off since I do not know anything about cars.
Sounds fishy to me, take it to another mechanic. It seems like because you refused the tune up he made sure you couldn't get away without it. The rotten egg smell is gas, to much is burning, gas has sulfur in it that causes the smell.
Ok, I've seen this message on here but no response as of yet that is conclusive.
1995 Mercury Villager LS. Van is great, bought it cheap due to Ford breaking the exhause manifold studs during the engine rebuild. Van now has 230k+ on it and everything is solid. Drilled them out, tapped, and everything is great. However, the problem I have is the van losing power and eventually stalling during driving. The problem gets worse as the air temp goes up outside and the longer the trip. As well, the fuel mileage gets worse! On my last long trip, it was fine for about 120 miles, then right before we got to the destination, it lost power up a hill and I barely limped it (via idle) to a turn off. Let it sit for 15 minutes, and it started right back up and we finished the trip. Usually, the problem is unnoticeable when the van is cold, running fine until it starts to come off cold enrichment.
The fuel pump is fine, as I have a test set for it and it runs 50-60psi with the regulator disconnected, and 28-32psi with regulator connected (reading taken from right before entry on the fuel rail). Also, when the van does lose power and stall, the fuel pump just runs like mad and you can almost watch the gas gauge go down, so I know it's pumping fuel. If you remove the fuel cap right after the stall, it nearly pushes fuel out and takes forever to bleed, as if there is excess pressure coming from somewhere. If you try starting it right after it stalls, you can definitely smell unburned fuel, which leads me to believe it's one or more fuel injectors. However, lately another symptom has been getting worse.
Stop at a light, when it turns green you put your foot on the gas, the van falls on it's face until it reaches 3200 or so RPM and then takes off like a race car! Not really, but it definitely gains power. Although, power in that range has been going down as the other symptoms continue. Gas mileage has dropped from 26-28mpg on the highway to 18-22. I have to press the pedal more every day to keep the van at highway speeds.
Is my fuel injector conclusion correct or not? Since the van still uses a distributor, I can't see how it would be anything ignition wise, as sparks tests on the plugs/wires are all good. The Service engine Soon light has only come on once, and that was when it stalled on a long trip. When I did check the fuel pressure, a large amount of air came out, then finally fuel. The only place for air to enter the fuel system and not be noticeably leaking fuel would be through an injector...I think. Please help...Love the van and everything works great on it besides minor worn out parts, like the electric locks and what not... If it's the injector(s), I can pick some up at a U-Wrench-It shop for less than $50/set, but it's a long drive and don't want to waste money and time.
I have Mercury Village 2000 sports van. Recently I started experiencing viered problem while starting the van.
When I start the engine (ignition) after 3-4 hours of gap(like heading for a office in the morning), it starts wtih out any problem. But, when I am starting the ignition after a small gap like after shopping, pick-up and so on, it sounds like gr.gr.gr..rr.r.r..r.r.r.. and won't start the engine. I need to keep the key in ignition and in on position for 15-20 seconds ( or more ) ignoring the gr..gr sound, then it finally starts . Once it starts, it is not going down during the drive ( i.e. good for me).
I found this forun is very helpful in resolving the problems. My earlier problems were answered exactly (better than a technician) by the people and it worked. Please help me in answering the solution for this problem.
Your problem sounds similar to mine. My 2001 Villager starts fine when cold, but if it's warm or I leave it for a few minutes it is very hard to start. You might try holding the gas pedal down slightly when starting; This helps mine to start much quicker. I just posted this problem in the "Maintenence and Repair: Car Won't Start" forum. If I get a reply, or figure it out, I'll post back. I'd appreciate it if you could do the same.
2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
I have a Nissan Quest 1996 with 74,000 miles. I have a mysterious problem that is driving me nuts, and the Dealer cannot figure out the problem either. The engine runs very well but then it stalls when it gets warm, only upon deceleration. That is, when I left my foot off the pedal. Particularly, when I am turning. It does not happen all the time -- an intermittent problem. However, the engine does start again easily. The CHECK ENGINE light goes on and then later on off. I went to the Dealer three times: the first time they adjusted the idle choke, the second they found debris in on the airflow meter, and the third they found nothing! In all cases the diagnostic machine indicates LEAN FUEL. They are reluctant to change something else, which may turn out to be the wrong thing gain.
I tried new plugs and an air filter and i've recently cleaned the throttle body and neither seemed to help. It's going to the shop Friday; my mechanic seems to think injectors. I'll post back when I get it back.
2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
I have a 96 Quest that just started a similar problem. I've been told a service bulleting is out on the fuel pumps for the Quest. Our van also has a gas smell at higher temperatures which also may be due to a faulty fuel pump. I'm getting a tune up to see if that helps first. If not, my mechanic is pretty sure it's the fuel pump.
I have a 96 quest that may need a new fuel pump. Have your mechanic check that also. Injectors are pretty expensive. I had a Chevy Corsica that had to have new injectors. Just the injectors were about $300 a piece. And don't forget the outrageous labor costs. OUCH!
You can get remanufactured injectors from FuelInjectorsDirect.com for $59.00 with shipping, for most late models. I am very happy with them. I have a 98 Villager with check engine light on. The code read missfire on cyl #5. Of course #5 is in the back and hard to get to. Swapped to # 6, and the code changed to missfire on cyl 6 Replaced injector, no more low speed miss, idles great. Just my two cents worth.
Thanks for the info. I looked up my old receipt and the injectors were actually $123 a piece. I don't know where I got $300. You still found a much better deal.
my car will not start, i was driving and it shut off in a restaurant parking lot. i had to start it several times to make it home. Once I got it home will try to start but has not started as of yet I have a 1996 Mercury Villager. Can anyone please help me?
We had a similar problem on our 95 a few years ago. Besides not starting, several other things did not work, such as radio, wipers, lights. Turned out to be a relay under the hood. There were two identical relays, the dealer swapped them until the replacement was shipped. This may not be your issue, but could be.
Have you tried resetting the fuel pump reset button on the left foot panel? Does the fuel pump run for about 5 seconds when you turn the key to the on position? Check these ideas and get back for more info. Earl
my 1996 Nissan Quest gxe has check engine light ON over the weekend. took it to for initial diagnostics. Technician told me 3 error codes 1 for knock sensor, 2 for 1st gear sensor, 3 is 3rd sensor problem. Advised to take it to dealers for fixing. When I called dealer, they don't know about 1st and 3rd gear sensors For knock sensor the price is varying 600-1000$. Is this right price for fixing. This is in CA.
I'm no expert, but I can tel you my 96' Villager had the knock sensor set the code a couple of times. After a full ignition tune up, it stopped setting that code. So, I think the code being there doesn't mesn the sensor is out of range, just that a "hard" code is set, meaning the sensor keeps sensing knock over and over. I don't know about transmision codes though. Resetting the "Check Engine Light" is easy, just remove the two push on wires you see on the + battery post, no tools required, just push down the clip and pull off both of them. Leave them off for about ten minutes, as quick remove and replace will not clear the codes.
Thanks Hend, your information is useful for resetting codes. Any way I want first dealer to read error codes again. This could be possible the my van is lost power (radio, clock are set to default) few times in 2005. It recovers it self, it could be the problem for knock sensor to detect some problem in ignition.
I have a 96 villager. I love the thing. only problem i have ever had is random RPM failures. One time stopped running all together. Mechanic told me dirty sensor in distributor. well that was fine and dandy, but still random problem. It seems to run ok at cold temps then worse when warm then it will start to miss fire and then chug to stop. Ok here is something to think about. Wife was driving van and it stopped. When I arrived on the scene i opened the distributor cap and found that the screw that holds the rotor in place wiggled loose. I put the screw back in and it seem to run fine. but started jerking towards the end of the trip back to the house. Checked screw still tight. Now it will run but will start to fight for rpms when it gets warm. Last time it chugged to a stop the engine developed a loud screech at 1900 rpms and higher. It almost sounds like a belt but is coming from the back side of the engine towards the fire wall. The thing has had an engine light on randomly for about 2 years Maybe I am crazy but it almost sounds like a vacuum leek.
Recap. Screw came out of the rotor. Replaced screw ran fine for about 5 miles then started to chug. Runs ok when cold then worse as it warms up. The engine fights for RPM until it stops running all together. Last time it stopped it developed a loud skreech at 1900 rpm and up. Sounds like b52 taking off. It still runs with loud screech but has noticeable loss of power when it does run ok. :sick:
The loud screeching sound could be one of the belt tensioners, there is one for the air conditioner, and one for the power steering/water pump. The loss of power after warmup sounds to me like a faulty/ wearing out fuel pump. The bearing in the tensioners are the same, about $7.00 at auto part store (here locally Gogal's). I had the same problem with the dist screw coming loose. To fix, I put a little silicone gasket sealer on the threads. Good luck with the repairs, and please post the resulting repairs. Earl
Since it seems that there hasn't been an answer here, you might try asking the folks in the Idle or Stalling Problems: All Vehicles discussion. Just click the link to get there.
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Thanks for the reply. But I wanted to tell you that I've faced this problem on cold mornings & what I do now is to heat up the engine by revving it up to 3500 rpm for like 2 mins. After that there are'nt any stalls. Besides I find the exhaust smells of gas. It does not come inside the van but when I step out it smells quite a bit. Do you have a clue? I was thinking of replacing the spark plugs, fuel filter & maybe the oxygen sensor.
Hi Rich, I'm not a wrench turner but I'd clean my throttle body first to rule that out. It's a issue with my '99 Quest every year or so, but my symptoms are a sticky throttle, not a stall when I'm coasting.
Another easy thing to do is swing by an auto parts store and ask them to see if any codes are being thrown off - lots of places will do that for free.
You could have something flaky going on with one of the computer modules or something too I suppose. There should be some ideas over in the stalling discussion that Claires linked to.
I'm having the same prob with my 94 Villager (140K). It just started a week ago. It intermittently stalls on turns, while coasting, and after you start to pull away after a stop. It doesn't matter if the engine's warm or cold. It also has the strong exhaust fuel smell someone else mentioned, if that's related. Did you get it figured out on your van? Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks, will have it checked. Mechanic found out the stalling issue is due to the "idle air control valve". One of the solenoids on it is broke. Will put it in this week and see what happens! Just wanted to update in case someone else has this prob.
Hi Villagerwoes, were you able to verify that your fuel pump was the cause of your starting issue (post #1826)? My 95 Quest has exactly the same problem as you described, and my mechanic is stumped. :confuse: He has tried replacing the mass flow sensor and the ignition coil so far, but these have not solved the problem
Here is my problem. 1997 Villager 98k miles. Nothing major repaired on it. I know I know, bad owner. Okay, check engine light always on. I have pulled the codes myself and it is the 3rd gear ratio problem. Okay, got it to go away before deployment to Iraq. When I got back it was fine, lasted about 3 months, then boom check engine light. Okay, now I have some other symptoms. Sometimes when I take off from stop it surges then stalls. Starts back fine in N and I take off. The idle acts like it sticks. RPM about 200 above normal with foot off gas, I rev it up a bit and comes back down to normal. I have some ideas what it might be but just wondering if anyone else has this problem. Thanks
Ok, another prob. Just recently returned from long road trip. Van ran fine the whole time except for a couple of stalling issues and high idle problems. Okay, returning through the dallas area I was driving about 7O MPH when I noticed engine surging. Like a idiot I stomped on the gas. It picked back up and I thought all was well. I was wrong. The first time I let off the gas it died out. So I pull to the side. Tried to restart and got the really rough idle and really low. No throttle response, and when you gave it gas, it died. Ok, had this issue before about year ago, popped the hood and checked all plug wires. Two things found. The bottom three plug wires seemed to be really loose. The top left one, the hard one to get to, same thing. Pushed them all on except top left one, engine was a little warm. Did the best I could. Got back in and started it up, seemed fine. I resume driving and about 5 minutes does it again. Now I have established something, engine bay warms up and problem occurs. I am thinking plug wires, ok so find autozone, replace all wires. Take off again and it last about 15 minutes and does again. Well, it was close to evening and I knew the weather would cool off. Waited till almost night fall and tried again, did not have a problem again for the remaining 200 miles. So here is my question, do I still have issue or did the gremlins take a break. Anyone else dealing with this. Please give me ideas. Thanks
If your Villager is hard to start, have your mechanic check your fuel pressure regulator. My 2001 was very hard to start, especially when warm, requiring me to pump the accelerator to start/keep it running. The fuel pressure regulator fixed that, and I get better mileage also.
2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
Comments
Steve, Host
It was the fuel pressure regulator. So, $354 later I can rest easy that my wife wont be stranded somewhere with the kids.
The van has 54K on it this is the 2nd repair I've had done, both have been on the fuel system. I had a fuel injector replace under warranty and now the fuel pressure regulator.
Thanks for all the help- Pat
Maybe you need to try a different service station!
Steve, Host
common problem with villager/quest
"runs good cold, craps out as it warms up"
usually trips no codes in obd1 systems
usually costs around $40.00
It is a 1995 villager and the only way to start the vehicle is to pump the gas repeatedly during cranking. It is especially worse during cold weather becomeing progressively better the hotter it get. In the winter here in Ohio it nearly kills the battery at times. Allowing and waiting for the fuel pressure to come up does not help.
It has been to a dealer as well as 2 non-dealer machanic's. With no improvement at all. (unless you count my loss of money as thier improvement)LOL
The injectors have been cleaned and no one has found any other problem at any of the shops.
I have checked all the codes with none stored. All sensors have been "back probed" and all voltages are in range and the voltages vary with thottle change.
I am out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks in advance.
I am not sure if the fuel pump was ever checked.
Please report back once you confirm that this was the issue or you find another solution.
Any advice is appreciated!!! :confuse:
katts91@hotmail.com
-Jennifer
Jenn - when you say distributor you are referring to the distributor cap or the distrib itself?
Hope this helps!!
Climate Control Problems: All Cars
Idle or Stalling Problems: All Vehicles
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Did your mechanic find the problem?
Please help because we are baffled and are very scared to drive all the way back to Florida with the van acting this way.
Could you give us the name of someone around denver area to fix the problem?
Golden colorodo and the area are so beautiful- we just wish our van wasn't having such a hard time here! :-)
thanks!
I could not leave the parking lot. The van was shaking so much I thought my engine would fall out. And it smelled like rotton eggs. I asked the mechanic how he thought this was driveable. So I had to leave my car and now my bill is very high.
Is all of this normal because I feel like I got ripped off since I do not know anything about cars.
1995 Mercury Villager LS. Van is great, bought it cheap due to Ford breaking the exhause manifold studs during the engine rebuild. Van now has 230k+ on it and everything is solid. Drilled them out, tapped, and everything is great. However, the problem I have is the van losing power and eventually stalling during driving. The problem gets worse as the air temp goes up outside and the longer the trip. As well, the fuel mileage gets worse! On my last long trip, it was fine for about 120 miles, then right before we got to the destination, it lost power up a hill and I barely limped it (via idle) to a turn off. Let it sit for 15 minutes, and it started right back up and we finished the trip. Usually, the problem is unnoticeable when the van is cold, running fine until it starts to come off cold enrichment.
The fuel pump is fine, as I have a test set for it and it runs 50-60psi with the regulator disconnected, and 28-32psi with regulator connected (reading taken from right before entry on the fuel rail). Also, when the van does lose power and stall, the fuel pump just runs like mad and you can almost watch the gas gauge go down, so I know it's pumping fuel. If you remove the fuel cap right after the stall, it nearly pushes fuel out and takes forever to bleed, as if there is excess pressure coming from somewhere. If you try starting it right after it stalls, you can definitely smell unburned fuel, which leads me to believe it's one or more fuel injectors. However, lately another symptom has been getting worse.
Stop at a light, when it turns green you put your foot on the gas, the van falls on it's face until it reaches 3200 or so RPM and then takes off like a race car! Not really, but it definitely gains power. Although, power in that range has been going down as the other symptoms continue. Gas mileage has dropped from 26-28mpg on the highway to 18-22. I have to press the pedal more every day to keep the van at highway speeds.
Is my fuel injector conclusion correct or not? Since the van still uses a distributor, I can't see how it would be anything ignition wise, as sparks tests on the plugs/wires are all good. The Service engine Soon light has only come on once, and that was when it stalled on a long trip. When I did check the fuel pressure, a large amount of air came out, then finally fuel. The only place for air to enter the fuel system and not be noticeably leaking fuel would be through an injector...I think. Please help...Love the van and everything works great on it besides minor worn out parts, like the electric locks and what not... If it's the injector(s), I can pick some up at a U-Wrench-It shop for less than $50/set, but it's a long drive and don't want to waste money and time.
Mitch (Missouri)
When I start the engine (ignition) after 3-4 hours of gap(like heading for a office in the morning), it starts wtih out any problem. But, when I am starting the ignition after a small gap like after shopping, pick-up and so on, it sounds like gr.gr.gr..rr.r.r..r.r.r.. and won't start the engine. I need to keep the key in ignition and in on position for 15-20 seconds ( or more ) ignoring the gr..gr sound, then it finally starts
I found this forun is very helpful in resolving the problems. My earlier problems were answered exactly (better than a technician) by the people and it worked. Please help me in answering the solution for this problem.
Thanks
Turned out to be a relay under the hood. There were two identical relays, the dealer swapped them until the replacement was shipped.
This may not be your issue, but could be.
When I called dealer, they don't know about 1st and 3rd gear sensors
For knock sensor the price is varying 600-1000$. Is this right price for fixing. This is in CA.
thanks.
thanks again.
Recap. Screw came out of the rotor. Replaced screw ran fine for about 5 miles then started to chug. Runs ok when cold then worse as it warms up. The engine fights for RPM until it stops running all together. Last time it stopped it developed a loud skreech at 1900 rpm and up. Sounds like b52 taking off. It still runs with loud screech but has noticeable loss of power when it does run ok. :sick:
Any help would be great.
I had the same problem with the dist screw coming loose. To fix, I put a little silicone gasket sealer on the threads. Good luck with the repairs, and please post the resulting repairs. Earl
I have the same problem with my 94 Mercury Villager. Still trying to figure out what the problem could be... Any luck??? Please let me know.
Since it seems that there hasn't been an answer here, you might try asking the folks in the Idle or Stalling Problems: All Vehicles discussion. Just click the link to get there.
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Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review
Regards.
Another easy thing to do is swing by an auto parts store and ask them to see if any codes are being thrown off - lots of places will do that for free.
You could have something flaky going on with one of the computer modules or something too I suppose. There should be some ideas over in the stalling discussion that Claires linked to.
Did you get it figured out on your van? Does anyone have any ideas?
Mechanic found out the stalling issue is due to the "idle air control valve". One of the solenoids on it is broke. Will put it in this week and see what happens! Just wanted to update in case someone else has this prob.