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Chevrolet Malibu Electrical/Lighting

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Comments

  • Yes we live in south Florida
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Thought that might be it, you get more 90+ weather in one week in Flordia than in Maine all year.
  • Starting about a week ago the "BRAKE" light on the dash of my wifes car (1998 Malibu) wont turn off when the brake is released. Sadly, the light comes with the most heinous warning chime to remind you to release the brake. Has anybody figured out how to replace the sensor or to disable it altogether? The car is nearly paid for and runs great, I just have to get this one problem sorted out and I'll be happy. Any ideas?
    MTN
  • e2helpere2helper Posts: 1,002
    It is a simple mechanical switch so it might need adjusting
  • 04bu04bu Posts: 16
    For the second time my left front directional bulb failed. I'm coming up to the end of my warranty period so I'll be looking closely at the lens assemblies.
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    you probably need to replace the socket assembly...mine was done two years ago and havent had a problem since them..the other option is changing to LED bulbs....lower power..not necessarily as bright and requirements a change out of the flasher unit to an electronic one for LEDs......im looking into this option now.....04 Maxx LT...86K
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Not sure but will the LEDs be compatible with the BCM. Lighting goes through the BCM.
  • 04bu04bu Posts: 16
    I finally tried replacing the bulb and it still doesn't work. I'll be insisting on a new socket. I'm scheduling an appointment for that and my rack and pinion inspection. I'm very short time on my warranty.
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    I dont know..does the malibu have an electronic flasher or are they controlled completely by the BCM as you mentioned..I honestly dont know...

    The LEDs should light...its the rapid flashing that has to be corrected since the system will detected a decreased electric requirement and consider it a blown bulb..thus the rapid flashing....

    you get either add a resistor to each bulb circuit..or change out the flasher circuit ......changing the flasher is obviously the easiest...if we have one.....
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    I know very little about it except that I once burned out a after market cruise control. I put a cap on my truck with a LED stop light, costly error.
  • 04bu04bu Posts: 16
    OK, when I took it in to the dealer Friday I had the original bulb with me and in the light of mid-day I noticed a scorch mark on the base of the bulb. Yes, the socket had failed. It was replaced at no charge. March 8 will be the end of my warranty period.

    Monday 2/5/07 I have what will hopefully be one last appointment. I want the steering rack examined due to the clunking sound.
  • rvothrvoth Posts: 147
    Has anyone had their rear turn light/stop light stop working. Mine has,only the marker light of the turn/stop light works. I replaced the bulb 3075 as per chev manual, checked the wire connection between the wire assembly and still no left rear turn/stop signal. Checked the rear fuse box and there is no listing for the turn/stop light fuse ,it might combined in a relay mini fuse, not sure .

    I guess it's down to the dealer later this week to solve the problem. Dam my 05 has been plagued with little electrical problems, from driver's seat switch, a loose fuse not allowing the pedals to move. The tap switch on the gear shift had a broken connection and the excessive long starting time. Only 41000km .
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    rvoth: on the "loose fuse keeping the pedals from moving," was the switch totally dead, or did you hear power going to the pedals, but they simply did not move? I have the latter problem. There is definitely power but the pedals are stuck at the bottom.
  • rvothrvoth Posts: 147
    It simply did not move, there was power to it just minutes before and then nothing. The dealer quickly had the car looked at by a tech and they said "it was the fuse not making proper contact". Maybe it was some other small electrical connection, twenty minutes later the problem was gone and never has occurred again.
    Funny it happened when we were taking delivery of the the new car, only 10 km on the odometer and the pedal went dead. A sign of things to come for our car. Russ
  • e2helpere2helper Posts: 1,002
    There is not a separate fuse for turn signals. The BCM drives all of the turn signals directly with solid-state drivers (1 for each corner).

    When you try to operate the left turn signal does the indicator in the instrument cluster flash fast (indicating the BCM is sensing a problem)?

    Just to make sure it isn't a ground problem does your back-up lamp work on that side? The marker lamps might be working because they are lower power filament and getting grounded through the other lamp filaments.
  • rvothrvoth Posts: 147
    Yes the left turn indicator flashes faster than when the right signal is used.

    The back-up lamp works on both sidesand I noticed that the blub was grey looking on the glass but the element wasn't broken.

    What is the BCM? What does it control ? Thanks Russ
  • e2helpere2helper Posts: 1,002
    Body Control Module - It controls a lot of stuff - to many things to mention here.

    I should have suggested putting your foot on the brake when you turn on back-up lamps. If left rear back-up lamp still illuminates then I guess the potential problem with your left rear lamp is either the wiring from BCM to the lamp or with BCM itself.
  • rvothrvoth Posts: 147
    I just completed your test for the backup lights,the left rear lamp back-up lamp still illuminates ! My guess is wiring harness.

    Where is this Body Control Module located, in the trunk near the fuse box ? Thanks Russ
  • e2helpere2helper Posts: 1,002
    OK - I just wanted to rule out everything. I agree likely wiring. Do you have ability to do any type of resistance check of a wire to ground? The BCM is located underneath "center stack" on front passenger side. You will see a panel that likely has a fuse symbol molded on it. The circuit from BCM to the rear lamp is actually 2 wires. One goes from the BCM to the "rear bussed electrical center (BEC)" in trunk. The second wire goes from Rear BEC to the actual rear lamp connector. the weird thing is that the connector at BCM and rear BEC are bolt-on so unless someone has been taking your vehicle apart for some reason I wouldn't think the connectors themselves are loose. I guess always possible a wire got chafed to ground or something.

    So for left rear stop lamp the wire color is Yellow. At BCM (red connector) it is in cavity A9 going to Rear BEC White Connector cavity B2 and then coming out of Rear BEC (red connector again) cavity C11 going to rear lamp cavity B. In addition to acting as a fuse/relay center the rear BEC is used as a junction point for multiple wiring harnesses to come together (in this case the rear lamp, body and headliner) so the rear left turn signal circuit just passes thru the cavities mentioned to get from main body harness to rear lamp harness.

    I am just laying out the access points. Hopefully you understand how you would actually test for continuity to ground. I don't want to have to try to explain that ;)
  • rvothrvoth Posts: 147
    Thanks for the detailed layout of how the BMC is connected to the rear BEC and the detailed wiring codes/wires to look for . This will help.

    The only people that could have moved the wires is the body shop when they replace the left truck hinge, maybe they disturbed the wiring harness!

    Out comes the voltage/ohm meter to test the for continuity. ;)
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