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Comments
I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me with more information about your situation so I can look into it further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Now my trunk light is not working. I believe the fuse is in the trunk fuse panel. How do I open the driver side fuse panel in the trunk. Do I prise it open or press it or what? Anyone try to replace such a fuse?
In cold weather the trunk lid does not stay up. It comes down hard. If one is not watching one can get hit on the head. Has this happened to anyone?
The problems are:
Remote start does not work
Remote keys do not work or sometimes work intermittently
The door lock buttons inside the car work intermittently
We're not very happy having these electrical problems on a car we're still making payments on. My 1993 Altima didn't have any electrical problems until 2007. :mad:
Just as an example, a friend who owns a garage had a customer who had a cruise control that wouldn't stay on. After exhausting other possibilities, they found that a brake light being out was the problem. (Since the cruise control turns off when you touch the brakes, this sort of makes sense since they're all on the same electrical branch) Just shows that it can take some more looking than you might expect before you find something.
As for the remote start, a few have found the hood safety switch has gone defective. You can either bypass the wires or buy a new switch. Search back and look on each specific item. There is a wealth of info that might have happened a year or so ago to others and will take searching on the item.
Not too difficult to fix - paying for the work it will be over $100 for one switch replacement.
The housing that the switch is mounted in pulls outward - no need to remove the interior door panel. Once housing is out the switches can be accessed to replace.
I bought two housings and 4 switches - that I pulled from a Maxx in a junk yard, for $20.
All Maxxes are having the same problems - don't seem to have much reliability built in. And now we're all paying to keep GM going - paid for the Maxx and paying again.
Yes the solder joints in the keyfob break - the joints that hold the battery in. I happen to know an expert solderer who was able to do the repair. Without special equipment it would be difficult to impossible to accomplish.
not all Maxxes have these problems...mine has experienced none of these..sans the keyfob, and its the broken joints that is the problem, not the car.....my 04 Maxx LT will be seven years old in Feb, and I have experienced none of these problems.....so either Im lucky, or my Maxx was built well when it came off the line....172K on it so far and no major repairs, one brake caliper, and two control arms in the front suspension is all the OEM components that have been replaced to date...I own two other GM cars..Pontiac and Cadillac and very happy with them as well.......
First I went to Autozone for a free scan – no codes were reported. From the comments on this forum the next best guess was the hood latch/switch. It may be a common problem since the dealer had the part in stock. I Installed the new assembly and now remote start functioning again.
To save some cash maybe should have just jumped the wires that sqr5516 mentioned and not gotten new part.
Remote Start
So this fall I went to start my '05 LT Maxx remotely and it wouldn't start. That sent me to the internet to look for solutions. (yes I checked the DIC, locked, hood, etc) I was guided to the wires for the hood latch. BTW- the fob worked, doors locked, and lights blinked once but no start. I tried to jump the wires and that did not seem to do it. I eventually went back and skinned the black and purple wires and twisted them together. That worked. I guess I could have bought and replaced the hood latch but this was much easier.
Another post
I have the manuals for a 2004 maxx. With remote start, the connector to the hood latch switch has 3 wires. The black wire is the ground. The purple wire signals the body control module that hood is closed, when it is connected to the black wire. The pink with black stripe wire signals the BCM that hood is open when it is connected to the black wire. So, remove connector and insert a jumper wire between the purple and black wires. If car remote starts, replace hood latch. If still no remote start, further check with ohm meter. Verify there is no open in the black wire. Verify pink wire is not shorted to ground (BCM will think hood is open). verify purple wire is not open (BCM will never get hood closed signal).
Since your lights flash when you hold the remote start button on the fob, the transmitter and receiver are working (the BCM knows you requested a remote start). The BCM must also sense the following conditions for remote start to work: Remote Start enabled in DIC; Shifter in park; key not in ignition; 4-way flashers not on; door lock button pressed before remote start button; check engine light not on; no DTC codes stored in history in the engine control module. If there is a problem in any of these circuits, remote start is disable until the problem is fixed and the codes are cleared from the ECM. Unfortunately, you almost have to take it to dealer or some other shop with scan tool and knowledge of how this all works.
It will light up upon initial cranking of the key, but then go out. This is a new situation, as of this afternoon.
Any thoughts/comments/suggestions on the cause? What's the solution to fixing this?
Thanks.
Please contact Transport Canada @ 1-800-333-0510
Its very simple, you speak to a safty rep, and they take the details down.
There should definatly be a recall on this problem!
there is a TSB addressing the issue as well I do beleive
How do you replace? And where do you access it from?
I apologize I don't have the information you are requesting. But if you don't have the antenna yet you can get it at http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/catalog/frameset.cfm. The antenna is under "Electrical" I hope this information helps.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Did you ever get an answer about this from GM?
I am having a similar problem. If I set my cruise control within the first few minutes or miles, it will set. If I have to disengage after that it won't allow me to resume or reset. Additionally if I drive past a few minutes or few miles after starting, it won't let me set.
However, if I stop and put it in park for a few seconds or turn off the car and turn it back on (again putting it in park), it will let me use it...as long as I set it "in time".
I have a 2004 Maxx with just at 70K miles on it. Since I purchased it at 40K miles I've had the following issue:
Car will do the infamous "hard start" where it will sound like it is going to start but won't turn over fully until I give it a bit of gas. Seems to happen most often will gas is half a tank or lower and/or it's super hot outside.
However, I have a special bonus of when it does this my A/C will turn on and blow but the air it blows is not cooled. Problem in the summer. Also when it does this (in the winter) my rear window defrost/defog won't turn on.
Beyond that I am having cruise control issues that started at about 65K miles. When I first start the car if I engage the cruise control within about 5 miles or 5 minutes, it will engage just fine. However, once I have to disengage (step on the break, hit the off button) it will not allow me to resume OR reset the cruise control until I have put the car in park (for just a few seconds) or restarted it.
Beyond that one night a friend who was traveling behind me mentioned my CHMSL was flickering and now it is out entirely. I've read that can be BCM related.
I have an appointment next week to have diagnostics run on the car at $100/hour. Before I walk into that expense, can anyone give me any thoughts or even suggestions at how much replacing a BCM would cost. One place told me $80 for the part and then labor to program it (which has to be done at a dealer???) and another place told me I might need to replace the whole grid (?) at a cost of around $2K but even just the BCM being $800.
To replace the CHMSL is $110 but I don't want to do that if it's not the part but the BCM that is the issue.
I never had it done....and my Maxx is about to roll over 187K...bought it new in Feb 04.....
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/GM-Chevrolet-Malibu-Brake-Pedal-Off-Tail-Ligh- ts-On-Repair-Guide/
basically, he says:
No tools are needed to fix this problem. Another person may be needed to test the brake lights after completing the repair.
Remove Center Console Panel
Locate Upper C2 or J2 Connector
"J2" BCM Connector
The GM technical service bulletin or "TSB" for this problem indicates that the cause of the issue is "terminal fretting corrosion" inside the BCM (body control module) C2 connector. On this Malibu and many others, the "C2" connector is actually labeled "J2".
Put simply, the metal pins on the BCM and the female receptacles inside the blue/grey J2 connector become slightly corroded and do not make a proper connection or there is a "high resistance condition" across the connection.
Flip Grey Clip Backwards
Gently Remove J2 Connector
Corrosion On Terminal Pins
To fix the problem, first gently remove the passenger side center console side trim or "kick" panel by pulling it away from the console. Underneathe the panel, you'll see two large blue connectors with grey latches and some fuses towards the front of the car.
Then flip the light grey latch on the top connector labeled either "J2" or "C2" and gently pull it away from the black plastic surface of the BCM (body control module). The best way to "clean" the corrosion off the male pins and female plugs is just to re-insert the connector and remove it several times. The friction of this action will rub off the built up corrosion on the metal and help create a better connection.
The TSB also mentions applying some dielectric lubricant or grease to the pins with a nylon bristle brush to help prevent the problem from re-occurring in the future.
Anyone have any kind of similar experience? She made it home with no additional issues, but this is obviously serious I think. I posted here under electrical because I have heard that the Malibu can have electrical problems and I believe our 06 Maxx has the electronic assist power steering. Please give any insight to this before I have to take it in to the shop and get hammered for some expensive repair that might not be necessary.
I appreciate any insight or assistance anyone can provide. Thanks in advance.
JS
Thank you for your email. I would recommend getting the vehicle diagnosed at a GM dealer. Please feel free to email me. Please include your VIN so I can look into this further.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I know I could replace the actuator or the relay, but here's what I don't get: Where the heck is the emergency release that they talk about in the owner's manual? It says that it is "in the hatch area beneath the body trim panel". I've folded down both rear seats and hunted all over yet I can't find anything that could be used to release the hatch manually (or mechanically). Does anybody know where this release is located, or is my manual wrong?
I purchased discounted, 0 deduc, 90K/6YR major guard ext warr. online when car was 1 yr old. I get free loaner car from my dealyer each time it's in shop for warranty repair. Glad I have ext warr as I've had many other problems with car, all fixed under warranty. Ext Warr ends 7/2013 at which time I'm selling it.
A less expensive solution, according to the independent shop I now take the car to, is a GM-approved lube kit that costs about $65 per application and makes the clunking go away for about a year or two. So far, it seems to have done the job.
Just FYI, and HTH.
If you're looking to check out your fuses, there's information on your vehicle's electrical system (including diagrams of the different fuse blocks) in your manual beginning on page 5-98.
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
i am having an issue with my lights on my 05 Chevy Malibu Maxx. the lights work, but the drivers side light is always dim. i don't mean on the dim setting, i mean when they are on, they are barely visiable as being on. the light bulb is very dim. i have replaced the bulb and checked fuses, and i'm lost now. i took it to 2 different mechanics, but they can't seem to figure it out.
any suggestions???
Thanks in advance!
Were either of the 2 mechanics with one of our GM dealerships? If so, we're available to follow up on any appointments. Please let us know!
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Any Ideas? Does anyone know of the correct wire in the skematic to check or ring out under the steering column or at a switch to see if I am making contact with the selector. I had complained years back to the dealer about this and they always said "cannot duplicate customer problem" I hope to find this paperwork and approach them now. D~
Separate issue...since you bought the car used from Drive Time and they assured you things were OK, then I guess it would depend how long you've had the car. If, for example, you've had the car a week and the shocks are shot, I'd think you have some recourse. But when you say you "haven't had it for a year", that sounds like at least six to 9 months to me, and as shocks are a "wear item", I'd bet their answer would be something like, "everything was checked out and passed inspection when we sold it". How many miles were on the car when you bought it?
We've had 3 recalls fixed, there is another one that I need to take it in for. Any information would be helpful
One is the ground if there is a separate ground for that headlight on that side of the car--or the connections in the wire going to the ground.
Two is the power line to the bulb may have a high resistance connection in it.
Are the high and low beam on the same bulb on that car? If so, are both lights dimmed somewhat. They both would use the same ground connection.
If you have a voltmeter/resistance meter, use those to measure the resistance to ground through the wiring at the bulb connector.
bbbind.com has a free access to circuit diagrams where you sign up and they send an email lettering you access their page that's good for multiple repeat visits.
Autozone.com also had wiring diagrams. You might have to sign up for their online access. I haven't used theirs in a long time.
You might get lucky and find an actual wiring diagram searching the internet for that year and model. But often those on the net are wildly mislabeled by the posters or the search engines.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,