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Comments
I have yet to do mine (see above). Try picking up a dish pan cleaning bucket from a discount store. There only a couple of buckets but offer a large enough plan view to catch most of the oil. I've had the same one for 15 years now and it cleans up just fine.
Thanks for the 5W20 oil above.
Jack
I haven't been on the board for a while, so I hope this isn't an old topic that I couldn't find.
anyways, after closing my hatch lid today, and getting in to proceed on my merry way, the door light on the instrument panel lit up. "oh," thought I, "I must not have closed it all the way" so I hit the button on the dash and got out to close it again. It didn't work. I turned the car off and used the button on the key fob. No luck. I used the key in the lock on the door, no luck. No matter what I tried I could not convince the door to open. Now, I have no way of opening my hatch door. And the car still registers it as open, because the light turns on on the dash when you get in to drive it.
Anyone have any bright ideas about what's going on and what I can do about it?
I'd appreciate any advice I can get.
Thanks in advance.
-zonaz
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
It was an auto (you take what they advertise!) and although it shifted great and would cruise quietly at 90mph on the interstate, it only got 24 mpg during breakin and 26 thereafter. Apart from occasionally hitting high speeds on the interstate, my driving was mostly freeway at 70mph. I was disappointed with this mileage, since the stick and the auto were actually close on the EPA ratings, and I expected to get closer to 30mpg.
Maybe my expectations were too high. The car was great. At least it still got 26mpg on the interstate, the high speeds knocked 4mpg off my stick shift Golf (dropped it from 30mpg to 26mpg).
If you switch to 5-30, it still needs to satisfy Ford's W-something specification. This specification is actually tougher to pass than the new tough SL specification! So you need to either go synthetic or find a rare oil, like Valvoline Synthetic Blend, that has the spec on the label. The spec has to do with hours the oil with pass two sequences of tests. The number of hours is twice the comparable SL spec test. So another way to satisfy the requirement is to make sure to change the oil at 3K. Then any old SL oil should work...it won't be in the motor long enough to create a problem.
The bulb looks like it sits high in the lens cap. I tried to take the lens off but only one screw is showing and it will not move when that is removed.
I read the owners manual but the access panel looks too far down to get to the bulb.
I tried to uncrew the phillips head screw but it just turns without moving. Looks like a little access door in the plastic there.
Any help??
TIA Frank
Sigh.
Not sure what the manual is talking about.
Seems the direct route would be to remove the lens.
Is it possible the 'other' screw is hidden under the triangle on the outside, that forms the point of the side window?? I'm afraid to force it.
posted by IcemanZX3.
posted by IcemanZX3.
or layed out more step by step.
"To remove the taillight assembly:
1. Open Hatch
2. Remove screw (philips) that is visible when you open hatch.
3. Look behind taillight assembly inside hatch and remove nut on backside.
4. Pull taiilight out. There is one pin that will pop loose.
5. Remove taillight bulbs."
posted by TCR Motorsports
I found the 'wing nut' which is kinda hidden away in the cutout.
After that it was real simple.
The instructions in the handbook say nothing about removing the screw on the tail light...
Wanted to get that taken care of as the Police are very vigiliant these days looking for ANY infraction as an excuse to pull you over so they can check for your papers. No insurance, registration or license and your car will be towed on the spot!!!
I'm legal but who needs the hassle?
Yesterday was the first day of this program and they nabbed 96 cars and one cycle.
Any help would be appreciated in advance!
rotor. Pull the pads and check for a small cavity ,possibly you will see the metal bit drop out. Change to different pads and you will get less brake dust also. Happened to my ZX3 at 21,300 miles.Don't bother with the Ford dealer,as they are all incompetent.
Thanks for any help.
I had this happen last month, about 10,000 miles. Thought it was odd also. Have been having vibration from left front wheel before it disappeard and now. Going to take it in and get it looked at. Rear is making alot of noise now. Getting that looked at also. Oh went to parts and got another one.
-Rob
What did you end up doing? What are my alternatives here?
Thanks
-Nihat nguven@hotmail.com
I try to turn the key and it works smoothly sometimes and other times I must try to jiggle it back and forth for 30 seconds and finally it releases and turns.
Grrrrrrrrr.
Made an appointment for Monday with dealer to look at.
Anyone have any thoughts in the meantime?
WD-40?
TIA Frank
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
Anybody had this problem???
-Rob
I had removed the spark plug covers and when I started up it ran a little rough. Figuring I did't have them on snuggly I redid and drove off. Noticing it a little rough and now the CEL [Check engine light ] came on so I pull over and once angain re do the spark plug caps. Now the engine purrs like it has for the previous 40k but the CEL is still on .
Can somebody tell me how to reset it without having to go to the dealer?
Here's another discussion from our Maintenance & Repair board you may also want to check out: "Check Engine" light. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your situation.
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
Any ideas? I fear this is one of those problems that will burn me again soon if I just pick up the car and go on my merry, worried way.
Thanks for any advice.
Rich
Thanks for the help.
Also, the dealer not getting paid by the manufacturer for problems they can't find/duplicate... pretty much goes with the business. In other words, the burden is usually not passed onto the consumer when the vehicle is still under the full factory warranty.
You may want to try speaking to someone a little higher up the ladder at that dealership (Service Manager or General Manager) about getting a refund. If that doesn't work, you should try speaking directly (file a complaint) with Ford's customer service. You should be able to find the 800 customer service number in your owner's manual. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your situation.
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
"Ford Fights to Fix Tarnished Focus"
http://www.detnews.com/2002/autosinsider/0210/13/a01-611243.htm
Your Ford Focus has caused you enough problems and is draining money from your pocket faster than you think due to poor resale value.
http://www.fordfocusbrakeproblems.com/index.htm
I spent much of the summer of 1999 working in Europe and fell in love with the focus. Even got to take pictures with the ralley car in Ireland. I was so excited to arrive home to find out the focus was coming to the US. I went to the dealer immediately to order my Focus. I was lucky to get my focus with every option I wanted except power windows, for some strange reason the early ZX3’s didn’t have that option. I do all highway driving, about 120 miles to work everyday . I must say that the car drives wonderfully and is economical and very stylish.
Then the problems started. I was subject to the brakes wearing out way to early as outlined in www.fordfocusbrakeproblems.com . I just ate the cost and replaced it with aftermarket parts and have not had a problem since. I wish this was the only problem I had.
In August of this year my ZX3 was up to 50,000 miles, I replaced the 10 AMP fuse that controls my rear brake light. Later that evening I smelled smoke coming from under the dash.and pulled over. I shut off my car and removed the keys. To my amazement the car continued to run. I had to stall the car to get it to turn off. I then restarted the car to make sure it would still run and it started right up. Again to my amazement the car would not shut off. I then removed the fuse and the car shut off right away. I replaced the fuse and the lights all came on again. Then removed the fuse again for good. I continued to smell smoke occasionally. Another side effect from this is that my hatchback pops open every time I shut off the car. I then called my dealer, Ford Customer Service and the National Highway Safety Administration.
I met my service manager to review the problems with my car. He stated that he would look at my car, but informed my that an extensive review would require removal of the complete interior including the dash. He estimated the dismantling would cost close to 3000 in labor alone. I told my service rep that I was not willing to pay due to the fact that I believe that this was a quality defect and asked for a free estimate only. I expressed my disappointment to him and informed him I would never purchase a Ford again. I also said that I didn’t know what to do now , fully knowing that electrical problems can be a nightmare. My service rep said the best thing I could do would be to trade it in. I reiterated that I would never purchase a Ford Motor Co vehicle again. He said he didn’t blame me and that the dealership sold every type of car. I asked him what he would give me for the car and he said nothing. My service rep recommended that I open up a claim with my insurance co. After analyzing the car they informed me that they would not pay due to the fact that it was faulty equipment from the factory. I returned later that evening to the dealership to pick up my car. Much to my surprise my car was all apart. My Service Rep informed me that they had found burnt wires in 2 locations, under the dash and in the deck lid wire harness. He informed me he would see what he could do and provided me with a rental car.
I returned the following day to pick up my car and was told that he could not due anything until Ford authorized the repair. The service rep informed me that parts would cost 908.50, labor would be in the neighborhood of 3000 and costs could be higher if they found anything else. He then tried charging me 10.33 for some wires he had replaced in the deck lid. I refused to pay and he finally removed the charge. I found it odd that the estimate was hand written and was informed that is how they do their estimates. He claimed he called the regional rep and should have an answer in a week. Of course I never heard back and then was informed they could do nothing I drove the car home and found the trim above the license plate in my back seat. I called the dealership and was informed that the part broke off during inspection of the vehicle and they would get me one soon. I wish I was just informed that this happened instead of discovering it for myself. On the ride home the vehicle continues to smoke occasionally and now the hatch pops open anytime I apply the brake or use the turn signal. I tied down the hatch as best I could and am forced to still drive this piece of crap.
I was forced to pursue legal actions and filed a 93A, Consumer Protection Act, and Ford denied it. I am now awaiting a court date in the MA Superior court system. Hopefully things will work out. I still love the way the focus looks and drives I just now hate Ford. I will also never purchase a vehicle in the first model year of production.
-Dyn
They check the recall and advised that my car was not made in the factory that had the recall on the wheel bearings.
Anyone have this experience? I'm astounded that they have a recall on rear wheel bearings at one factory, but not another when it's an obvious recall problem. Rear wheel bearings should not need to be replaced at 45,000 miles.
I just started getting the creaky buzzing from somewhere in the dash - it's intermittent and seems to occur only during idle when it's really really cold out.
Incredibly shrinking tank:
I'm afraid to run past a 1/4 tank nowadays as my focus has died on me 3 times now at about 1/8 tank. The last time - the low fuel light never even came on! It's died only when i've been below 1/8, but above E and the car was cold. When I take it straight to the gas station after throwing in a gallon, she takes only 9 - i wonder what happens to the other 2.5 i'm supposed to have.
Have any of you experienced similar problems?
All cars have this built-in "feature"(approx 2 gal of gas remaining with the fuel gauge at E) to avoid fuel pump overheating.
Your stalling problem sounds like a dying fuel pump though.
I picked it up this morning, and it drives like new...there also used to be a "plastic popping" sound when driving at low speeds, from the rear wheel area, but that's now gone.
When I came back to my office, a supervisor from Ford called (as I'd requested yesterday) and he seemed concerned, until I started to mention my ongoing BRAKE PROBLEMS, such as having to replace them at 19,000 miles, at a cost of over $500, and the constant "creaking" sound, when releasing the brake pedal, which I've always had. When I mentioned www.fordfocusbrakeproblems.com, and the class action law suit, regarging Focus brakes, he said, "oh yeah, class action suits are filed every day, about something." I replied that I was confident we'll ALL be compensated, one of these years, for Ford's faulty brakes. I found the brake problem web site, almost by accident, and couldn't believe that all of us...hundreds (or more) having the SAME problems with Focus brakes...some people having to replace brakes at 10,000 miles!!! When is Ford going to recognize their problem, and try to rectify it???...and compensate us for all the $$$$$$ we've unjustly had to shell out so far???? Anyone know of the current news / status of the class action law suit??
Thanks....
What were you driving before?
Just in case you didn't know, the front brake pads IS a wear item. They DO need to be replaced on the regulare basis.
Some people are very hard on their brakes. I know several that wore down their brakes during a single day while autocrossing.
Some are much easier and get more than 50,000 miles out of their FACTORY Focus pads.
19,000 miles for the OEM front pads is a reasonable period.
Uneven pad wear is a legitimate problem though.