On either the 2 or 4 valve Focus motors the oil filter is quite hard to reach. It's on the back of the engine next to the firewall. I drive the car up on ramps and crawl underneath to get to it. Once down there it's not too bad but the darn thing leaks all over the place when you loosen it. I tried a tip I saw in Popular Mechanics and wrapped it in a sandwich bag before I loosened it but I somehow managed to get only about 10% of the oil in the bag and the rest dripping down the back of the engine and other components below the filter. I wish someone would offer a "remote" location for this darn thing. Since I only change it twice a year (5,000 miles) though I just grit my teeth and make sure I have plenty of paper towels handy!
Scootch I have yet to do mine (see above). Try picking up a dish pan cleaning bucket from a discount store. There only a couple of buckets but offer a large enough plan view to catch most of the oil. I've had the same one for 15 years now and it cleans up just fine.
dvc1492s - Good point about the cleaning bucket. I do use a pan to catch the oil from the engine drain plug and what leaks from the filter. It's the darn stuff that runs down the back of the enginethat's a nuisance. I think I've wiped it all off the parts below the filter only to find a couple of stubborn drips on the garage floor the next day. This is obviously not a big deal. Just wish Ford had found a better location for their filter. What frustrates me more is that the SVT version of the Focus hasn't shown up in LA Ford dealers inventories yet. I want to see the EPA mileage ratings on the window sticker for myself to see if they're really as bad as the guy at 800-FORD-SVT told me they were i.e. 21 city/25 hwy. Ouch!
Hey kids -- I haven't been on the board for a while, so I hope this isn't an old topic that I couldn't find.
anyways, after closing my hatch lid today, and getting in to proceed on my merry way, the door light on the instrument panel lit up. "oh," thought I, "I must not have closed it all the way" so I hit the button on the dash and got out to close it again. It didn't work. I turned the car off and used the button on the key fob. No luck. I used the key in the lock on the door, no luck. No matter what I tried I could not convince the door to open. Now, I have no way of opening my hatch door. And the car still registers it as open, because the light turns on on the dash when you get in to drive it.
Anyone have any bright ideas about what's going on and what I can do about it? I'd appreciate any advice I can get. Thanks in advance.
I had a 2000 ZX3 with stick and a 2001 ZX3 with auto. The stick delivered an average of 28.5 mpg over 7,000 miles driven. I got rid of it due to an air quality problem. Since it was a great handling, quiet, economical car, and I was carrying a $2k credit from Ford, I bought the 2001 right after 9-11 when they were giving away cars.
It was an auto (you take what they advertise!) and although it shifted great and would cruise quietly at 90mph on the interstate, it only got 24 mpg during breakin and 26 thereafter. Apart from occasionally hitting high speeds on the interstate, my driving was mostly freeway at 70mph. I was disappointed with this mileage, since the stick and the auto were actually close on the EPA ratings, and I expected to get closer to 30mpg.
Maybe my expectations were too high. The car was great. At least it still got 26mpg on the interstate, the high speeds knocked 4mpg off my stick shift Golf (dropped it from 30mpg to 26mpg).
Once you are out of your warranty period, you might think about a 5-30 oil instead. The 5-20 is just an easy way for Ford to squeeze an extra mpg or two for CAFE purposes.
If you switch to 5-30, it still needs to satisfy Ford's W-something specification. This specification is actually tougher to pass than the new tough SL specification! So you need to either go synthetic or find a rare oil, like Valvoline Synthetic Blend, that has the spec on the label. The spec has to do with hours the oil with pass two sequences of tests. The number of hours is twice the comparable SL spec test. So another way to satisfy the requirement is to make sure to change the oil at 3K. Then any old SL oil should work...it won't be in the motor long enough to create a problem.
I tried to replace my rear stop/turn signal bulb and cannot figure out how to do it. The bulb looks like it sits high in the lens cap. I tried to take the lens off but only one screw is showing and it will not move when that is removed. I read the owners manual but the access panel looks too far down to get to the bulb. I tried to uncrew the phillips head screw but it just turns without moving. Looks like a little access door in the plastic there.
The little door was actually the door for the seat belt spool. Sigh. Not sure what the manual is talking about. Seems the direct route would be to remove the lens.
Is it possible the 'other' screw is hidden under the triangle on the outside, that forms the point of the side window?? I'm afraid to force it.
"take off that screw when you open the hatch.. and reach around for a plastic wingnut inside a circular cutout in the interior panel behind the taillight... after those two things are off you can then wiggle and jiggle the housing off."
"take off that screw when you open the hatch.. and reach around for a plastic wingnut inside a circular cutout in the interior panel behind the taillight... after those two things are off you can then wiggle and jiggle the housing off."
posted by IcemanZX3.
or layed out more step by step.
"To remove the taillight assembly: 1. Open Hatch 2. Remove screw (philips) that is visible when you open hatch. 3. Look behind taillight assembly inside hatch and remove nut on backside. 4. Pull taiilight out. There is one pin that will pop loose. 5. Remove taillight bulbs."
I found the 'wing nut' which is kinda hidden away in the cutout. After that it was real simple. The instructions in the handbook say nothing about removing the screw on the tail light...
Wanted to get that taken care of as the Police are very vigiliant these days looking for ANY infraction as an excuse to pull you over so they can check for your papers. No insurance, registration or license and your car will be towed on the spot!!!
I'm legal but who needs the hassle?
Yesterday was the first day of this program and they nabbed 96 cars and one cycle.
am i paranoid ? our are these cars all losing the front left cap ? has anyone heard that this might be a factory problem, i live in san diego and nearly every zx3 i see needs one. i asked the dealer ,but they just pointed the way to parts.
Hello fellow focus drivers, been a while since I posted a message, everything has been good so far, until the break issue came up. Ny question is that when I press on my brakes with alot of pressure, I hear this grinding sound. The brakes work fine except for this noise. I am going to take the car into the dealer, it is a 2000 zx3 with 21000 miles on it. The sound only occurs when the brakes are hot, and at times they dont make a sound.. They work fine, I get good stopping distance, but it is the noise, it only sounds inside, wierd I am telling you guys. Wasnt there a NHTSA service number to have the brakes serviced free of charge. The last thing I want is the dealer to say it is normal wear and tear, give me a break, wear and tear with only 21000 miles only.
I am assuming front brake noise,as back noise is usually a squeal. Check both sides of your front rotors for scoring or a groove. Bits of pad compound metal can ball up on the pad surface and grind into the rotor (I think it's called galling)every time you brake. Sounds like a rock under the pad.It will quickly grind a groove into the rotor. Pull the pads and check for a small cavity ,possibly you will see the metal bit drop out. Change to different pads and you will get less brake dust also. Happened to my ZX3 at 21,300 miles.Don't bother with the Ford dealer,as they are all incompetent.
Hi. This looks like my first ZX3 problem (other than the recalls). Any experience with this one? My rear wiper washer has stopped functioning. I have fluid (I assume it sucks from the same fluid tank as the front washers.)
Yes Ed, I had this happen last month, about 10,000 miles. Thought it was odd also. Have been having vibration from left front wheel before it disappeard and now. Going to take it in and get it looked at. Rear is making alot of noise now. Getting that looked at also. Oh went to parts and got another one.
Hi there, have a Focus ZX3 with about 1200 miles on it (still a baby, I know). Intermittently a kind of "buzz" or almost electrical shorting sound comes from the dash. It just started a few days ago and has only happened twice. It's not linked to engine or road vibration. Any ideas? Should I call the dealer?
I am having the same problem with my 2000 ZX3. The brakes are making noise. I took it to a Firestone Mastercare service, and they told me that it requires new rotors/pads... the whole thing, more then $500. And the car has only 20000 miles. It is really frustrating...
What did you end up doing? What are my alternatives here?
Have been having a problem with a sticky ignition. I try to turn the key and it works smoothly sometimes and other times I must try to jiggle it back and forth for 30 seconds and finally it releases and turns. Grrrrrrrrr. Made an appointment for Monday with dealer to look at. Anyone have any thoughts in the meantime? WD-40? TIA Frank
My friend's '96 Impreza had the same ignition trouble (which she claims to have not experienced) when I drove it last year. I finally found that it wouldn't operate properly unless the steering wheel was rotated a bit from the locked position.
20000 miles here, and I had the same brake problem this past week. I took it into the dealership, and they changed the rear brakes, and it isn't making that noise anymore. When I dropped it off they told me that if it was the brakes it wasn't covered under warranty, and when I picked it up, it was. I think they found something wrong that they just don't want anyone to know about, and just told me it was the brakes. I couldn't figure out why they told me it wasn't covered, and then paid for it.
I bought a 2002 focus ZX3 on 9-30-02. The day after I bought the car, I had it idling in the carwash bay and the car died. The car has continued to die while idling, not all the time...just every once in a while. The dealership where I bought the vehicle say that they can't duplicate the problem, therefore there's no fix. The DID replace the fuel pump driver, cleaned the spark plugs and replaced the sparkplug wires. This is my very first brand new car...and I'm scared to death that I've been stuck with a lemon. They have had my vehicle for 5 days now and still no results. They say the car has missed once. I don't know what to do...
I remember having an old '80 escort that would fog up if I ever turned on the defrost, it then blew it's heater core. I hope the focus is not about to follow suit. I looked at the TSBs and my year (2002) Focus some cars have had issues with a heater core leak. The weather was cool when it happened (about 55 degrees) and occasionally continues to happen. There is an odd smell coming out the vents which I assume is the AC working, it smells like rubbing alcohol. Should I contact the dealer and see what's happening?
I had removed the spark plug covers and when I started up it ran a little rough. Figuring I did't have them on snuggly I redid and drove off. Noticing it a little rough and now the CEL [Check engine light ] came on so I pull over and once angain re do the spark plug caps. Now the engine purrs like it has for the previous 40k but the CEL is still on . Can somebody tell me how to reset it without having to go to the dealer?
If the problem is fixed, the light may go off by itself after a few drive cycles stops/starts). You can also disconnect the negative battery cable for a several minutes, then reconnect it. This should clear any codes the computer has stored. If the light goes on again, then you know the problem still persists. Others here may have more to add.
Here's another discussion from our Maintenance & Repair board you may also want to check out: "Check Engine" light. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your situation.
Hi all. Well, I've run into the first killer problem with my beloved little Z. It is a 2001 with only about 15,000 on it. Tryed to start it yesterday, and couldn't. The battery was not dead, but the sound when I turned the key was just a repetitive medium pitched chuga-chuga. Not the engine trying to turn over, just this empty unconnected sound. Had AAA try and they didn't know, so they towed the car to my Ford dealer. (The AAA man said that he thought it may be the starter, but it seemed like just a guess.) Called the dealer today and guess what? They said the car started right up for them, they don't have any idea why it didn't start for me, or the AAA man. I must have tryed 10 times or so before giving up and having the car towed.
Any ideas? I fear this is one of those problems that will burn me again soon if I just pick up the car and go on my merry, worried way.
The problem probably lies in the fuel pump. If the engine turned over but never fired the fuel pump is likely to be the culprit. My neighbor's 2000 ZX3 had the same issue with about 28,000 miles on it and a new fuel pump solved the problem. The 2000/2001 Foci have had many problems with the fuel pump (do a search at focaljet.com and be prepared to do a lot of reading). The problem can be intermittent but is potentially dangerous as it will tend to make the car die when cornering. I'm sure that TSBs have been issued to the dealerships and they have run across the problem numerous times before. The movement of the car while being towed was probably enough to jar the fuel pump into semi-functionality by the time it got to the dealer. I would be very insistent as to having the fuel pump replaced as it is a potential safety issue.
Well I picked up the car today from the Ford dealer. They just couldn't reproduce the problem and basically gave up. I read your post about the pump after I picked it up, but I tend to doubt that they would have replaced it. Anyway, here's the real kicker....they charged me 45 bucks just to look at the problem (the car only has 15,000 and is still under warranty). They called it a diagnostic fee. I complained but they insisted that Ford will not give them any money if they don't find and fix a problem. Can you believe this?
I've never heard of a customer being charged a diagnostic fee under those circumstances. Not to mention, it sounds like you can provide documentation from AAA that your vehicle was not able to start.
Also, the dealer not getting paid by the manufacturer for problems they can't find/duplicate... pretty much goes with the business. In other words, the burden is usually not passed onto the consumer when the vehicle is still under the full factory warranty.
You may want to try speaking to someone a little higher up the ladder at that dealership (Service Manager or General Manager) about getting a refund. If that doesn't work, you should try speaking directly (file a complaint) with Ford's customer service. You should be able to find the 800 customer service number in your owner's manual. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your situation.
This dealer is pulling your let and ripping you off. Call Ford Customer Service. Go into the dealer during a busy time and complain loudly in front of other customers (this worked for me and they gave my money back). Write a letter to the editor of your local paper. Call the Better Business Bureau. Make hundred of copies of this article from Detroit Free Press front page and hand them out at the dealership.
Hi All, It's me again. Guess nobody's had the same problem as me. :-( Anywho, the dealer has had my vehicle for 11 days now. Keep in mind...I've only owned the 2002 Focus since 9-30-02. It started dieing the day after I bought the vehicle. Several of the Ford employees at the dealership have driven my car home (while I drive a ugly green piece of junk) and say that the car doesn't miss a lick. That it runs "TOP NOTCH". I called customer service and have made 2 complaints as of this morning...and nobody seems to have any suggestions on what I should do. I've been told that if "ford can't duplicate the problem, then they are not liable to fix it". ISN'T THAT CONVENIENT!!!!! I really need help on this. If anybody has any suggestion, big or small, I will accept with open arms.
By the way....they've had a flight recorder installed on my vehicle for 3 weeks now. It only records 4 recordings at a time. When he read the last set of recordings...all four recordings came back that I was sitting still at an idle of 760 rpm's. Well, EXCUSE ME....but wouldn't the rpm's read slightly higher if you were doing 65 mph on the interstate???? It seems like that appointment with the lawyer will be coming alot sooner than expected....
Here is my story I am not trying to bash the Focus or any focus owners. I just want my story to be heard and get peoples feedback on any similar situations and outcomes.
I spent much of the summer of 1999 working in Europe and fell in love with the focus. Even got to take pictures with the ralley car in Ireland. I was so excited to arrive home to find out the focus was coming to the US. I went to the dealer immediately to order my Focus. I was lucky to get my focus with every option I wanted except power windows, for some strange reason the early ZX3’s didn’t have that option. I do all highway driving, about 120 miles to work everyday . I must say that the car drives wonderfully and is economical and very stylish.
Then the problems started. I was subject to the brakes wearing out way to early as outlined in www.fordfocusbrakeproblems.com . I just ate the cost and replaced it with aftermarket parts and have not had a problem since. I wish this was the only problem I had.
In August of this year my ZX3 was up to 50,000 miles, I replaced the 10 AMP fuse that controls my rear brake light. Later that evening I smelled smoke coming from under the dash.and pulled over. I shut off my car and removed the keys. To my amazement the car continued to run. I had to stall the car to get it to turn off. I then restarted the car to make sure it would still run and it started right up. Again to my amazement the car would not shut off. I then removed the fuse and the car shut off right away. I replaced the fuse and the lights all came on again. Then removed the fuse again for good. I continued to smell smoke occasionally. Another side effect from this is that my hatchback pops open every time I shut off the car. I then called my dealer, Ford Customer Service and the National Highway Safety Administration.
I met my service manager to review the problems with my car. He stated that he would look at my car, but informed my that an extensive review would require removal of the complete interior including the dash. He estimated the dismantling would cost close to 3000 in labor alone. I told my service rep that I was not willing to pay due to the fact that I believe that this was a quality defect and asked for a free estimate only. I expressed my disappointment to him and informed him I would never purchase a Ford again. I also said that I didn’t know what to do now , fully knowing that electrical problems can be a nightmare. My service rep said the best thing I could do would be to trade it in. I reiterated that I would never purchase a Ford Motor Co vehicle again. He said he didn’t blame me and that the dealership sold every type of car. I asked him what he would give me for the car and he said nothing. My service rep recommended that I open up a claim with my insurance co. After analyzing the car they informed me that they would not pay due to the fact that it was faulty equipment from the factory. I returned later that evening to the dealership to pick up my car. Much to my surprise my car was all apart. My Service Rep informed me that they had found burnt wires in 2 locations, under the dash and in the deck lid wire harness. He informed me he would see what he could do and provided me with a rental car.
I returned the following day to pick up my car and was told that he could not due anything until Ford authorized the repair. The service rep informed me that parts would cost 908.50, labor would be in the neighborhood of 3000 and costs could be higher if they found anything else. He then tried charging me 10.33 for some wires he had replaced in the deck lid. I refused to pay and he finally removed the charge. I found it odd that the estimate was hand written and was informed that is how they do their estimates. He claimed he called the regional rep and should have an answer in a week. Of course I never heard back and then was informed they could do nothing I drove the car home and found the trim above the license plate in my back seat. I called the dealership and was informed that the part broke off during inspection of the vehicle and they would get me one soon. I wish I was just informed that this happened instead of discovering it for myself. On the ride home the vehicle continues to smoke occasionally and now the hatch pops open anytime I apply the brake or use the turn signal. I tied down the hatch as best I could and am forced to still drive this piece of crap.
I was forced to pursue legal actions and filed a 93A, Consumer Protection Act, and Ford denied it. I am now awaiting a court date in the MA Superior court system. Hopefully things will work out. I still love the way the focus looks and drives I just now hate Ford. I will also never purchase a vehicle in the first model year of production.
I noticed yesterday that there is a strange creaking noise coming from my dash...I think. I know this sounds crazy, but it almost sounds like a rocking chair creaking. It doesn't seem to have anything to do with the speed I am traveling, or the braking system...it comes and goes. I have banged on everything I can reach, but it is still creaking. Has anyone else had a problem like this, or can anyone give me any advice?
I've noticed that as well, it comes and goes intermittently and kinda sounds like a "rocking chair noise" I wonder if it's a creaking plastic thing or (hopefully not) an electrical component shorting out. I've done nothing about it yet, mainly because I cannot make it happen on command. I do have to take the car in for an oil change at the end of the month and I'll ask the tech about it and an engine vibration that I have seem to have picked up on my 1000 mile christmas trip.
Well, it has stopped for now...hopefully it won't start back. I am right at 24000 miles, and the only problem I have had with my ZX3 is that the rear brakes were replaced by the dealer...I just hope this isn't the beginning of all of the problems that so many others have had.
I own a 2000 ZX3. I have driven it 45,000 miles. I have replaced 2 tires, brake pads, battery and now I'm told my rear wheel bearings are bad and there is danger that the wheels may fall off. They check the recall and advised that my car was not made in the factory that had the recall on the wheel bearings. Anyone have this experience? I'm astounded that they have a recall on rear wheel bearings at one factory, but not another when it's an obvious recall problem. Rear wheel bearings should not need to be replaced at 45,000 miles.
I've had just about all the problems with the focus most of you have been having. It's frustrating. Aside from these quality control niggles, I still think it's a great car. It'll be hard to part with it next month when my lease runs up.
I just started getting the creaky buzzing from somewhere in the dash - it's intermittent and seems to occur only during idle when it's really really cold out.
Incredibly shrinking tank: I'm afraid to run past a 1/4 tank nowadays as my focus has died on me 3 times now at about 1/8 tank. The last time - the low fuel light never even came on! It's died only when i've been below 1/8, but above E and the car was cold. When I take it straight to the gas station after throwing in a gallon, she takes only 9 - i wonder what happens to the other 2.5 i'm supposed to have.
It's not. All cars have this built-in "feature"(approx 2 gal of gas remaining with the fuel gauge at E) to avoid fuel pump overheating. Your stalling problem sounds like a dying fuel pump though.
Hey GAZX3IN,Ihave been having the same problem w/mine 2002 focus zxf, they tell me at the dealership that they don't here nothing,i guess they think I'am stupid or something ,but anyway's I'am glad somebody is having the same problem I'am having
I have a 2000 Focus ZX3, and have gone through the umpteen recalls, with no hassle, until now. I got the letter, regarding the wheel bearing recall, made an appt with Sunrise Ford in North Hollywood, CA, for yesterday, Feb. 25th. When I took it in, the Service Tech said they'd "road test it, to see IF there was a problem, and then see IF they needed to replace anything." HUH??? I read from the letter, in my hand, stating simply, "Your dealer will replace your rear wheen bearings at no charge to you under the terms of this program. An additional bearing seal will also be installed." I said that sounds to me like the work would be done, period. He replied, sharply, "Like I said, if we think it needs to be done, we'll do it, ok?" Instead of arguing further, I came back to work, and called the Ford Customer Relations Center, and spoke to someone who also wasn't much help, so I called back again, and got a representative who seemed to care, and agreed with me, that, per the letter, the work should be done. To make a long story shorter, I spent most of the day yesterday, on the phone with various reps at Ford Customer Care, trying to have them contact Sunrise Ford, to assure that all work would be completed. At about 4pm, the service tech called, and said they were still "looking at it, to see if anything should be done." I lost it, and demanded to speak to the Service Supervisor. He finally came on the line, and was very rude. He said, "Look, I'll do what Ford pays me to do, and that's it, no more, ok?" At about 5:30, the service tech called again, to say (nicely, this time) that all work had been performed, at no charge (wheel bearings, seal, and battery cable routing), and I could pick it up.
I picked it up this morning, and it drives like new...there also used to be a "plastic popping" sound when driving at low speeds, from the rear wheel area, but that's now gone.
When I came back to my office, a supervisor from Ford called (as I'd requested yesterday) and he seemed concerned, until I started to mention my ongoing BRAKE PROBLEMS, such as having to replace them at 19,000 miles, at a cost of over $500, and the constant "creaking" sound, when releasing the brake pedal, which I've always had. When I mentioned www.fordfocusbrakeproblems.com, and the class action law suit, regarging Focus brakes, he said, "oh yeah, class action suits are filed every day, about something." I replied that I was confident we'll ALL be compensated, one of these years, for Ford's faulty brakes. I found the brake problem web site, almost by accident, and couldn't believe that all of us...hundreds (or more) having the SAME problems with Focus brakes...some people having to replace brakes at 10,000 miles!!! When is Ford going to recognize their problem, and try to rectify it???...and compensate us for all the $$$$$$ we've unjustly had to shell out so far???? Anyone know of the current news / status of the class action law suit??
Why so much of drama? What were you driving before? Just in case you didn't know, the front brake pads IS a wear item. They DO need to be replaced on the regulare basis. Some people are very hard on their brakes. I know several that wore down their brakes during a single day while autocrossing. Some are much easier and get more than 50,000 miles out of their FACTORY Focus pads. 19,000 miles for the OEM front pads is a reasonable period. Uneven pad wear is a legitimate problem though.
Comments
I have yet to do mine (see above). Try picking up a dish pan cleaning bucket from a discount store. There only a couple of buckets but offer a large enough plan view to catch most of the oil. I've had the same one for 15 years now and it cleans up just fine.
Thanks for the 5W20 oil above.
Jack
I haven't been on the board for a while, so I hope this isn't an old topic that I couldn't find.
anyways, after closing my hatch lid today, and getting in to proceed on my merry way, the door light on the instrument panel lit up. "oh," thought I, "I must not have closed it all the way" so I hit the button on the dash and got out to close it again. It didn't work. I turned the car off and used the button on the key fob. No luck. I used the key in the lock on the door, no luck. No matter what I tried I could not convince the door to open. Now, I have no way of opening my hatch door. And the car still registers it as open, because the light turns on on the dash when you get in to drive it.
Anyone have any bright ideas about what's going on and what I can do about it?
I'd appreciate any advice I can get.
Thanks in advance.
-zonaz
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
It was an auto (you take what they advertise!) and although it shifted great and would cruise quietly at 90mph on the interstate, it only got 24 mpg during breakin and 26 thereafter. Apart from occasionally hitting high speeds on the interstate, my driving was mostly freeway at 70mph. I was disappointed with this mileage, since the stick and the auto were actually close on the EPA ratings, and I expected to get closer to 30mpg.
Maybe my expectations were too high. The car was great. At least it still got 26mpg on the interstate, the high speeds knocked 4mpg off my stick shift Golf (dropped it from 30mpg to 26mpg).
If you switch to 5-30, it still needs to satisfy Ford's W-something specification. This specification is actually tougher to pass than the new tough SL specification! So you need to either go synthetic or find a rare oil, like Valvoline Synthetic Blend, that has the spec on the label. The spec has to do with hours the oil with pass two sequences of tests. The number of hours is twice the comparable SL spec test. So another way to satisfy the requirement is to make sure to change the oil at 3K. Then any old SL oil should work...it won't be in the motor long enough to create a problem.
The bulb looks like it sits high in the lens cap. I tried to take the lens off but only one screw is showing and it will not move when that is removed.
I read the owners manual but the access panel looks too far down to get to the bulb.
I tried to uncrew the phillips head screw but it just turns without moving. Looks like a little access door in the plastic there.
Any help??
TIA Frank
Sigh.
Not sure what the manual is talking about.
Seems the direct route would be to remove the lens.
Is it possible the 'other' screw is hidden under the triangle on the outside, that forms the point of the side window?? I'm afraid to force it.
posted by IcemanZX3.
posted by IcemanZX3.
or layed out more step by step.
"To remove the taillight assembly:
1. Open Hatch
2. Remove screw (philips) that is visible when you open hatch.
3. Look behind taillight assembly inside hatch and remove nut on backside.
4. Pull taiilight out. There is one pin that will pop loose.
5. Remove taillight bulbs."
posted by TCR Motorsports
I found the 'wing nut' which is kinda hidden away in the cutout.
After that it was real simple.
The instructions in the handbook say nothing about removing the screw on the tail light...
Wanted to get that taken care of as the Police are very vigiliant these days looking for ANY infraction as an excuse to pull you over so they can check for your papers. No insurance, registration or license and your car will be towed on the spot!!!
I'm legal but who needs the hassle?
Yesterday was the first day of this program and they nabbed 96 cars and one cycle.
Any help would be appreciated in advance!
rotor. Pull the pads and check for a small cavity ,possibly you will see the metal bit drop out. Change to different pads and you will get less brake dust also. Happened to my ZX3 at 21,300 miles.Don't bother with the Ford dealer,as they are all incompetent.
Thanks for any help.
I had this happen last month, about 10,000 miles. Thought it was odd also. Have been having vibration from left front wheel before it disappeard and now. Going to take it in and get it looked at. Rear is making alot of noise now. Getting that looked at also. Oh went to parts and got another one.
-Rob
What did you end up doing? What are my alternatives here?
Thanks
-Nihat nguven@hotmail.com
I try to turn the key and it works smoothly sometimes and other times I must try to jiggle it back and forth for 30 seconds and finally it releases and turns.
Grrrrrrrrr.
Made an appointment for Monday with dealer to look at.
Anyone have any thoughts in the meantime?
WD-40?
TIA Frank
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
Anybody had this problem???
-Rob
I had removed the spark plug covers and when I started up it ran a little rough. Figuring I did't have them on snuggly I redid and drove off. Noticing it a little rough and now the CEL [Check engine light ] came on so I pull over and once angain re do the spark plug caps. Now the engine purrs like it has for the previous 40k but the CEL is still on .
Can somebody tell me how to reset it without having to go to the dealer?
Here's another discussion from our Maintenance & Repair board you may also want to check out: "Check Engine" light. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your situation.
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
Any ideas? I fear this is one of those problems that will burn me again soon if I just pick up the car and go on my merry, worried way.
Thanks for any advice.
Rich
Thanks for the help.
Also, the dealer not getting paid by the manufacturer for problems they can't find/duplicate... pretty much goes with the business. In other words, the burden is usually not passed onto the consumer when the vehicle is still under the full factory warranty.
You may want to try speaking to someone a little higher up the ladder at that dealership (Service Manager or General Manager) about getting a refund. If that doesn't work, you should try speaking directly (file a complaint) with Ford's customer service. You should be able to find the 800 customer service number in your owner's manual. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your situation.
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
"Ford Fights to Fix Tarnished Focus"
http://www.detnews.com/2002/autosinsider/0210/13/a01-611243.htm
Your Ford Focus has caused you enough problems and is draining money from your pocket faster than you think due to poor resale value.
http://www.fordfocusbrakeproblems.com/index.htm
I spent much of the summer of 1999 working in Europe and fell in love with the focus. Even got to take pictures with the ralley car in Ireland. I was so excited to arrive home to find out the focus was coming to the US. I went to the dealer immediately to order my Focus. I was lucky to get my focus with every option I wanted except power windows, for some strange reason the early ZX3’s didn’t have that option. I do all highway driving, about 120 miles to work everyday . I must say that the car drives wonderfully and is economical and very stylish.
Then the problems started. I was subject to the brakes wearing out way to early as outlined in www.fordfocusbrakeproblems.com . I just ate the cost and replaced it with aftermarket parts and have not had a problem since. I wish this was the only problem I had.
In August of this year my ZX3 was up to 50,000 miles, I replaced the 10 AMP fuse that controls my rear brake light. Later that evening I smelled smoke coming from under the dash.and pulled over. I shut off my car and removed the keys. To my amazement the car continued to run. I had to stall the car to get it to turn off. I then restarted the car to make sure it would still run and it started right up. Again to my amazement the car would not shut off. I then removed the fuse and the car shut off right away. I replaced the fuse and the lights all came on again. Then removed the fuse again for good. I continued to smell smoke occasionally. Another side effect from this is that my hatchback pops open every time I shut off the car. I then called my dealer, Ford Customer Service and the National Highway Safety Administration.
I met my service manager to review the problems with my car. He stated that he would look at my car, but informed my that an extensive review would require removal of the complete interior including the dash. He estimated the dismantling would cost close to 3000 in labor alone. I told my service rep that I was not willing to pay due to the fact that I believe that this was a quality defect and asked for a free estimate only. I expressed my disappointment to him and informed him I would never purchase a Ford again. I also said that I didn’t know what to do now , fully knowing that electrical problems can be a nightmare. My service rep said the best thing I could do would be to trade it in. I reiterated that I would never purchase a Ford Motor Co vehicle again. He said he didn’t blame me and that the dealership sold every type of car. I asked him what he would give me for the car and he said nothing. My service rep recommended that I open up a claim with my insurance co. After analyzing the car they informed me that they would not pay due to the fact that it was faulty equipment from the factory. I returned later that evening to the dealership to pick up my car. Much to my surprise my car was all apart. My Service Rep informed me that they had found burnt wires in 2 locations, under the dash and in the deck lid wire harness. He informed me he would see what he could do and provided me with a rental car.
I returned the following day to pick up my car and was told that he could not due anything until Ford authorized the repair. The service rep informed me that parts would cost 908.50, labor would be in the neighborhood of 3000 and costs could be higher if they found anything else. He then tried charging me 10.33 for some wires he had replaced in the deck lid. I refused to pay and he finally removed the charge. I found it odd that the estimate was hand written and was informed that is how they do their estimates. He claimed he called the regional rep and should have an answer in a week. Of course I never heard back and then was informed they could do nothing I drove the car home and found the trim above the license plate in my back seat. I called the dealership and was informed that the part broke off during inspection of the vehicle and they would get me one soon. I wish I was just informed that this happened instead of discovering it for myself. On the ride home the vehicle continues to smoke occasionally and now the hatch pops open anytime I apply the brake or use the turn signal. I tied down the hatch as best I could and am forced to still drive this piece of crap.
I was forced to pursue legal actions and filed a 93A, Consumer Protection Act, and Ford denied it. I am now awaiting a court date in the MA Superior court system. Hopefully things will work out. I still love the way the focus looks and drives I just now hate Ford. I will also never purchase a vehicle in the first model year of production.
-Dyn
They check the recall and advised that my car was not made in the factory that had the recall on the wheel bearings.
Anyone have this experience? I'm astounded that they have a recall on rear wheel bearings at one factory, but not another when it's an obvious recall problem. Rear wheel bearings should not need to be replaced at 45,000 miles.
I just started getting the creaky buzzing from somewhere in the dash - it's intermittent and seems to occur only during idle when it's really really cold out.
Incredibly shrinking tank:
I'm afraid to run past a 1/4 tank nowadays as my focus has died on me 3 times now at about 1/8 tank. The last time - the low fuel light never even came on! It's died only when i've been below 1/8, but above E and the car was cold. When I take it straight to the gas station after throwing in a gallon, she takes only 9 - i wonder what happens to the other 2.5 i'm supposed to have.
Have any of you experienced similar problems?
All cars have this built-in "feature"(approx 2 gal of gas remaining with the fuel gauge at E) to avoid fuel pump overheating.
Your stalling problem sounds like a dying fuel pump though.
I picked it up this morning, and it drives like new...there also used to be a "plastic popping" sound when driving at low speeds, from the rear wheel area, but that's now gone.
When I came back to my office, a supervisor from Ford called (as I'd requested yesterday) and he seemed concerned, until I started to mention my ongoing BRAKE PROBLEMS, such as having to replace them at 19,000 miles, at a cost of over $500, and the constant "creaking" sound, when releasing the brake pedal, which I've always had. When I mentioned www.fordfocusbrakeproblems.com, and the class action law suit, regarging Focus brakes, he said, "oh yeah, class action suits are filed every day, about something." I replied that I was confident we'll ALL be compensated, one of these years, for Ford's faulty brakes. I found the brake problem web site, almost by accident, and couldn't believe that all of us...hundreds (or more) having the SAME problems with Focus brakes...some people having to replace brakes at 10,000 miles!!! When is Ford going to recognize their problem, and try to rectify it???...and compensate us for all the $$$$$$ we've unjustly had to shell out so far???? Anyone know of the current news / status of the class action law suit??
Thanks....
What were you driving before?
Just in case you didn't know, the front brake pads IS a wear item. They DO need to be replaced on the regulare basis.
Some people are very hard on their brakes. I know several that wore down their brakes during a single day while autocrossing.
Some are much easier and get more than 50,000 miles out of their FACTORY Focus pads.
19,000 miles for the OEM front pads is a reasonable period.
Uneven pad wear is a legitimate problem though.