Chevrolet Impala TSBs/Recalls/Problem Codes

maku337maku337 Member Posts: 15
edited March 2014 in Chevrolet
GM has now issued a Service Bulletin for the IP snaps and pops as has been discussed in this Forum. The service bulletin number is #06-08-49-011. The service fix is to remove the defroster panel, remove the attaching clips on its underside, install anti-itch tape to the clip post and re-install the clips. Anti-itch tape is also installed across the slots on the IP top pad where the clips engage. We have performed this fix on a number of GM company cars and all have been successfully corrected. Thanks to the customers in this forum. You were one of the sources for discovery of this problem.


  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    There are 2 recalls that involve 06 Impalas.

    #05122-updated calibration for electronic brake control module (EBCM). On SOME Impalas with 17" or 18" wheels and ABS.

    #05083-replacement of ONSTAR module on some Impalas.

    You can call your favorite dealer and ask if your vehicle is involved. (have your VIN handy)

    There is a bulletin (06-06-02-002) about a clicking noise, heard from inside the vehicle, on the passenger side:

    Some customers may comment on a ticking or clicking noise heard inside the vehicle on the passenger side. The noise may be noticeable with the engine on and at idle, with the vehicle in PARK, and with the HVAC and radio off.

    The noise may be caused by normal EVAP purge valve operation. The EVAP purge valve operation may be internally grounding out, creating a noise path through the coolant inlet and outlet hoses/pipes

    The fix is to replace the coolant inlet and outlet hoses/pipes with updated parts.
  • jz68jz68 Member Posts: 61
    Where did you get the information for the TSB about the clicking noises in the dash? I called chevy and they have no record of it and said that the number format you give isn't even the one used for a TSB.
  • jcooleyjcooley Member Posts: 46
    I found the 2 TSBs (OnStar and ABS) here. Didn't see clicking one though.
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    My info comes from GMDealerWorld, a website that is the primary method of communication between GM and dealerships. (I work for a Chevy 'ship) Maybe customer assistance uses Document numbers. TSB 06-06-02-002 is AKA document #1754128, it came out on January 24.
  • jz68jz68 Member Posts: 61
    You are the man!

    I went to my Chevy dealer for the break recall and also gave them the information you provided. They knew nothing about it but after checking verified your information. Made me feel good to know more than they did (lol).

    Another question for you if you don't mind. My dealer called me back just a while ago and told me that the clicking sounds are indeed a result of the reason listed in the TSB. My question is how do they verify that? Is that something that would be diagnosed simply by plugging into the cars computer and reading a code?

    Thanks again for the info, you were able to tell me what Chevy customer support and my dealer could not.
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    Well, I am the 'Woman' ;) , but thanks! I'm glad I could help.

    Your dealer tech probably listened to your car, trying to detect where the noise was coming from. He may have checked for codes. (There probably were none, codes are usually set because of oddball readings from sensors)
    Then he would have gone looking for bulletins, then tried the repair in the bulletin. They call you and say "Yep, that did it!" and you say "Yippee"

    Most diagnosis involves what I call 'tinkering'-check this measurement, wiggle that wire, push on this, try replacing that part, see what happens. Sometimes, the diagnosis takes as longer than the actual repair.

    The TECHII computer can only give data and send a tech in the direction of the problem, it can't tell that that P0440 code was set because the gas cap was loose, the evap canister is leaking, or a mouse ate the wire that goes to the sensor that detects evap leaks.
  • jz68jz68 Member Posts: 61
    Would it be possible for you to post the entire contents of the TSB? I'm curious to read all of the details (if there are any).
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    It's a pretty long bulletin (several pages). It gives step by step instructions for the repair. My dealership doesn't give out copies of bulletins (considered GM's property), so I won't print whole ones here.
  • jz68jz68 Member Posts: 61
    I was just curious since my dealer doesn't seem interested in telling me to much about it. The clicking noises I'm hearing seem to be originating from behind the instument panel and not on the passanger side. I'm afraid that they aren't paying attention to the TSB at all and that when I pick my car up tomorrow I'm going to hear the same clicking noises. It wouldn't be the first time my dealer replaced something on a vehicle of mine without it having been the cause of the problem. :cry:
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    Is the gentleman on the forum who works with squeaks and rattles at the Impala factory addressing the clicking noise during the assembly process so the car will not have this problem when it is delivered? You would think that if a TSB was issued on this potential problem it could be corrected at the factory.
  • jz68jz68 Member Posts: 61
    He sent me an email a couple weeks ago and I haven't heard from him since. My car has been fixed and I haven't had another problem as far as the clicking behind the dash goes.

    Now if someone could tell me why my battery went dead in a 24 hour span I'd be really happy. :mad:
  • maku337maku337 Member Posts: 15
    JZ68, glad to hear the fix corrected your vehicle. It, unfortunately, did not correct another car a dealer here in Oshawa had. As I said in my e-mail to you, we are evaluating two potential fixes and, obviously, mine doesn't work all the time. The other fix has worked in all the vehicles we have tried it in so far. We are working with the part supplier to incorporate the fix quickly because I think there are more out in the field than we have seen. Thanks for your patience. Once we have a definite fix identified, we will work through the service group to release a bulletin.
  • jz68jz68 Member Posts: 61

    Out of curiosity what is the other fix? If the problem was caused only by the weather it's wierd that the insulation fix wouldn't correct it. We've had some very cold days since my vehicle was repaired and I still haven't had any more problems.

    Another question if you don't mind. Are you aware of any problems with batteries draining for no apparent reason? My battery was drained to the point I couldn't start my vehicle after sitting for 24 hours. I bought a battery tester and it showed the alternator to be working and the battery holding a full charge. I haven't had the problem again which really has me puzzled. I'm positive that I didn't leave anything on but even if I had the vehicle has battery rundown protection. :confuse:

    Thanks for your help.
  • ivanadrivealotivanadrivealot Member Posts: 35
    maku337, if you can share, how close are you guys getting to the definitive fix? I've had the dash clicking problem for the past two months on a 3LT (built in October) during the colder Midwest weather, but haven't brought it in yet as it didn't sound like you have an official fix yet. As a customer, I didn't want to play beta tester (I know that probably sounds harsh, but look at it from the customer's perspective.)

    FYI, it's almost spring here, and it would be nice to have it fixed before it warms up too much outside and the problem could disappear until next winter.

    If I may also ask, how invasive are the fixes so far? Are we talking about opening up the dash (not liking that one, they're never the same after that, with squeaks and rattles), or something less intrusive? What are the parts that are clicking during warm-up?

    Thanks, and we certainly appreciate all you folks working hard to nail this one!
  • jz68jz68 Member Posts: 61
    The adding of the insulation required them to remove the top of my dash. I can tell because there is a small scratch that wasn't there before :mad: . I haven't had any problems with other noises because of it.

    Maku337 mentioned in an earlier post that he had heard of another vehicle that had the insulation added but still had a problem with the clicking. I'm wondering if maybe they didn't add enough because I don't see what other kind of fix their could be short of replacing the parts responsible for the noies.
  • jcooleyjcooley Member Posts: 46
    This fix appears different than just replacing the insulation. 02A/index.html

    If the clicking is occuring on my car, I wonder if I don't do this repair since it doesn't bother me, if something will break in the future?
  • 66novss66novss Member Posts: 12
    That TSB applies to the 3.5 & 3.9 V6 engines. The Impala SS has the 5.3 V8, so I don't think thats whats causing those to make that noise. I doubt if it would cause any problems, but it sure is anoying! :(
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,743
    >Anti-itch tape

    what is anti-itch tape?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • cjm315cjm315 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for posting this! I have been trolling this forum for a few weeks now looking to see if anyone else had experienced this. My situation: Took car to dealer twice, 1st got more insulation, 2nd was "diagnosed" as normal opening and shutting of the "blend doors". Obviously, that 2nd time, and information, was BS. I look forward to going back to the dealership armed with this info :-).

  • 06fasst06fasst Member Posts: 48
    gm has posted a newtsb on out famous ip cracking noise check it out link title
  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    I guess this is different than the clacking noise TSB from the engine. That required a different fix.
  • axle52axle52 Member Posts: 36
    I know this is a old issue, but does any owners of the 06 LTZ Impala experience popping noises coming form the dash and is there a permanent fix for this yet.
  • maku337maku337 Member Posts: 15
    There is a TSB issued for the popping noises coming from the defroster grille panel. The TSB number is 06-08-49-011. Yes, there is a fix being implemented in the plant for this noise. Thanks again to the Edmunds posters who tipped us off about this noise.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    maku337, do you know if there are any bulletins on dashboard noise in Cobalts? I have a Cobalt too, and it is new (2006 with a December build date), and has an intermittent scratching noise coming from the dash area - sounds like a loose wire moving around in there and scratching the inside of the dash. (It isn't consistent enough to take to the dealer yet, but when its there its loud and annoying; sometimes, but very rarely, I get a buzzing noise like a vibration, but never both at the same time.) I realize Impalas are from Canada and Cobalts are from Ohio, but I thought I'd ask.
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    You are the MAN (or woman)! I've already contacted my local dealer to verify with them that this TSB applies to my vehicle but it DEFINITELY sounds like it. You are my hero for the day! :)

    Thanks again!!! ;)
  • gzbenhurgzbenhur Member Posts: 4
    2003 Impala 3.4L engine, mileage 62000. This car begun bumping when deacceleration and acceleration. Bumping came in randonly when drive with one or two persons, but definitely came in when drive with 3 or 4 men. Got P0742 (Torque Convertor Circuit Stuck On). Anyone got this code on an Impala? When did you do to fix it? I will send this car to Chevy dealer. More to follow up. :sick:
  • larconelarcone Member Posts: 9
    This reminds me of the transmission on the Chevrolet Celebrity and the Chevrolet Lumina. It very well could be the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid, located in the outer casing of the tranmission of the driver's side. There is a gasket that goes bad, allowing fluid to leak into this outer compartment which is otherwise dry and allows the solenoid to work correctly. This outer compartment/casing ends up filling with fluid and subsequently shorting the TCC Solenoid. The end result is a shudder when decelerating off of the free way and the vehicle even dying at idle at a red light, etc.

    To isolate this problem, simply unplug the TCC Solenoid, which usually has a connector going into the outer transfer case since it is electronically operated. The only thing you will miss out on is the economical mode the transmission provides above 55mph.

    I have provided a couple of links to further explain this phenomena. The TCC solenoid from GM including the gasket are about $30-40. You can do it yourself but it can get messy as Transmission fluid will roll out of the case in order for you to repair and replace.

    If you are feeling extremely lavish, you can always buy a new transmission but this isn't really necessary.

    DTC P0742 TCC System Stuck On 3.8L

    Go to for info on this problem found on a Malibu:

  • gzbenhurgzbenhur Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Larcone, you gave all the answer to this problem.
    The Chevy dealer did diagnosis by Tech 2, found the TCC solenoid problem. The dealer wants $880 to replace the solenoid because the long hours to take the stuffs apart. It looks like a huge job to open the transmission side case cover after I read the service manual, cause you need some special tools to hold the engine and take transaxle apart.
    Most of my driving is on highway so I still want to spend the $880. Impala is a nice car, good size and gas mileage, but the transmission is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed].
  • larconelarcone Member Posts: 9
    You can always just disconnect the TCC Solenoid by disconnecting the wiring harness on the outside of the vehicle. You won't get the super cruise energy efficiency at highway speed but you will eliminate the problem for the moment.

    I just looked at all of the crap you have to do to replace anything in the side case cover. What a joke. Chevrolet has just officially turned into a joke. On the older Chevy's, you could have this done in under two hours with parts(TCC Solenoid & Case Cover Gasket) costing less than $50. If you have tools and are the slightest bit proficient, you can still do it yourself. I am and I would still do it myself. If you take your time and fully prepare you can save some real money. See my links below and good luck. Don't let them WIN!!!

    For GM parts quotes and a live database and very competitive parts prices, go to

    Lastly, and this is for the benefit of everyone reading this forum. I recommend you try any one the links below for a GM SERVICE MANUAL of your VEHICLE. It is such a small investment and a complete set offers about 4000 pages of information concerning your automobile from head to toe. It is detailed down to the last screw and how tight it should be tightened during reassembly. It has troubleshooting guides for everything. Unlike Haynes and Chilton's, these manuals are written is very plain English and come complete with illustrations. The used ones on eBay are great and all you need to do is one or two repairs to get your money back and from then on you can save lots of money.

    1. There are three full manuals that make a COMPLETE SET of the IMPALA Service Manual from 2000 thru 2005. Make sure there are three books with any set that you buy on eBay.

    2. All of the 2001 thru 2005 manuals are essentially the same with little or no changes between each year. The 200 Impala Service Manuals are white with ONLY two volumes and I use this for my 2002 Impala. It's great so far. Try to stay away from the GM Service Manuals on CDROM unless you are technically proficient on computers and have a decent system with higher than average resources.

    (shop,service) (2000,2001,2002,2003,2004,2005) impala

    LINK: - - - - refZC5QQfclZ2QQfromZR7QQfrppZ200QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ3QQnojsprZyQQpfidZ0QQsacatZQ2d1QQ- - - - - satitleZQ28shopQ2cserviceQ29Q20Q282000Q2c2001Q2c2002Q2c2003Q2c2004Q2c2005Q29Q20i- - - - - mpalaQQsofocusZbs

    In the event that you must have a NEW service manual for your GM car, then go to
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,482
    Thanks for posting all the helpful info!

    That helm link doesn't look right though.

  • larconelarcone Member Posts: 9
    You're right, here it is:
  • gzbenhurgzbenhur Member Posts: 4
    ">link titleHere is the service manual link:
    link title
    Tried but could not find TCC solenoid. The Chevy dealer appointment is next monday. I really hope Larcone is running a garage near me. I tried to replace timing belt on my 2000 Camry, but failed to take off the crankshaft pulley bolt (22mm bolt). I am some kind of scared to do auto jobs.
  • larconelarcone Member Posts: 9
    First of all, it is and not 'RACKAUTO' so that no one else on the forum is misled to the wrong site.

    Two, I just looked for the Solenoid and it says 'solenoid' in the parts selection tree, BUT it disappears after you select it. So the Rock Auto site is hosed for the moment.

    CHEVROLET > 2003 > IMPALA > 3.4L > Transmission-Automatic > Solenoid

    If you will call your GM dealership and ask for parts, you will find that the parts man can give you able price quotes for this part. The TCC Solenoid and the corresponding Transmission side case GASKET are all that is needed. I did this work on a Lumina as recently as a few years ago and these parts were about $38 or so.

    Third, I agree that this job is not for the inexperienced. In years past, this used to be a lot simpler. To give yourself some time to decide, you can disconnect the TCC Solenoid by disconnecting the wiring harness for it just outside the Transmission case. I don't have the manual in front of me but this might not work in that Chevrolet has also two other solenoids inside this case area, that being the 1st-2nd shift and 2nd-3rd shift solenoids. So, even if you do get it apart, you may find that the TCC Solenoid is bad because of fluid contamination.....but that contamination may be a direct result of the one of the other two solenoids that will need replacing in order to prevent the dry side of the transfer case from filling up with fluid.

    Noting your concerns, here is what I would do since you seem more predisposed to let a mechanic do it for you:

    1. See if your car is still under warranty. After all, it is a 2003.

    2. Ask the dealer for the Chilton hour-labor rating for this job. Chilton's make a manual that details what the labor rate should be for every job. This, combined with parts, will give you an idea of what the cost will be. I can't see more than 5 hours for this and parts are even less. You do the math.

    3. I would be very reluctant to let any mechanic outside of a GM dealership do this work. The GM mechanics are well trained and they have the parts to get it all done right. You never said who gave you the quote but you might find a better deal at a dealership.

    I'd be interested to know what you found out. I believe that $800 for this job is highway robbery but at least forces you to get two more price quotes to see if it is in line with the original quote.
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    To those out there still having issues with the Intermediate Steering Shaft, GM has revised the TSB. I don't know if that automatically means they'll cover the repair but I thought I'd pass along the newest info.

    Thu, Jun 8, 2006 Thu, May 25, 2006 01-02-32-001G Steering - Clunk Felt and or Heard From Front End on Turns
    link title
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    GM will not cover the repair if you are out of warranty. This issue started with the 2000 Impalas. They indicate that this is a maintenance item now for those with older Impalas. This is about their 4th attempt at trying to resolve this issue.
  • jcooleyjcooley Member Posts: 46
    Had the following TSB done since it had locked up on me at least 4 times in the 8 months I have had the car. 06/index.html

    Several differences now. When both knobs selected for coldest air it automatically goes to recirculate. If you move both slight up it goes to outside air. Recent posts on Lacrosse board reflect this also.

    The AC appears to be putting out even colder air now on recirculate that prior to TSB on recirculate.
  • 06fasst06fasst Member Posts: 48
    if you look at the 2007 panel for the impala you will see that they changed it, i wonder if that fixed the problem of not, i have had every tis performed to my car and i am hapy to say the only on going issue is the key fob distance issue
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    Just curious...does your AC stay in recirculate even after shutting off the engine? Does it stay in recirculate as long as the temperature dials are set to the coldest setting? What trim level is your Impala? I would really like my AC to stay in recirc without having to set it each time I start the car. Has anyone else out there had this TSB service performed?

  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    To be honest, Ive never really looked.
    I have the car at the dealer now doing its first oil change and all 4 TSBs that came out on the Impala! The only TSB that really affects the car is the clicking noise coming from the engine at idle. I dont know if they are going to fix all 4 TSBs and not sure i want them to. They may screw something up!
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    Actually, I was asking if anyone else has had TSB Number: 06-01-39-006 performed on their Impala. jcooley reported that his AC automatically switches and stays in recirc whenever the temp dials are turned to the coolest setting. I'm also curious as to whether the AC will remain in recirc after the car has been shut off and restarted. Has anyone else had similar results either with the vehicle new or after having this TSB performed? Thanks! :)
  • jcooleyjcooley Member Posts: 46
    Yes, the AC stays in recirculate when I start the car now. Since I've had the TSB done I leave it on the coldest setting and its on recirculate all the time. I have a LT1 with 10000 miles now. Its been close to 98 degrees and the AC is working good.
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    Thanks, buddy. I took my car in for service today and was told it was up to date. Needless to say, mine is exactly how it's always been. I also wanted the keyless entry fixed since mine only works when I'm within 20 feet. No change there either although they claimed to have found and fixed that problem. I'm going back with specific data in hand. Thanks for sharing that earlier. :)
  • 06fasst06fasst Member Posts: 48
    i had the tsb done on my ac and it does not do the recirculate mode and i checked the tis and there is no updates that relate to that issue at this time. quitepro what data do you have on keyfob distance issues if any yet becasue you know my only works from about 5 feet!
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    The information about the FOB/RKE range issue is called a Preliminary Information. The preliminary information number is PIC4026. It was in a post earlier is the thread. I got the dreaded, "we know exactly what you're talking about" line and trusted them.

    They didn't replace my FOBs but said they were going to reprogram them. I had to bring both of them in and in the process, they mangled my spare key. I'm not at all pleased. I'd say my range is about 25ft at best (it varies) which makes remote starting worthless for me. :(
  • 06fasst06fasst Member Posts: 48
    THERE IS NEW SOFTWARE PER TIS WHICH should correct all of our other issues with the air condiotioning not working, i suggest we all go back to dealership for this new software part number 15909082, this should do what jcooley says his car does!
  • 06fasst06fasst Member Posts: 48
    got back from the dealership around noon and had the new sofware put in and i am happy to say that the ac works real good and does exactlly what jcooley says it will do, its almost like having automatic ac now!
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    Thanks for the feedback. What did you tell the service rep to do? I got the "let us take care of everything" attitude last visit and nothing was fixed. I'll take the TSB and software part # you mention and see what happens. I have a feeling I'm going to have a fight on my hands and that will be sad. According to them, the software is up to date. Has anyone out there seen documentation on the improved behavior of the AC after the software update? Even with two sources from this forum, I won't have a strong arguing point and I like to go in with indisputable evidence. :)
  • 06fasst06fasst Member Posts: 48
    quitepro all you should do is tel them with tsb in hand that your car has lousy ac performace at startup and that this latest software flash fixes the issue so that your ac can be like mine and the other guy that had it done. the dealership just wants to make sure you have the issue before they can fix it as usual and i find that if i said i have an issue and come in there armed with information they are usual impressed with my research and are more than happy to do what i tell them, i have never been challenged with an issue except for my brake problem which is something i probably did myself, severe warping during braking above 100 miles per hour, but how oftern do i go above 100, lol. let me know if i can help!
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    Next visit will be with the TSB. Last visit I "trusted" them and got typical service. I take it as a lesson learned...that if I ever want warranty service done I'll need to be fully armed with the information.

    They claim to have checked my car and that the latest software was installed. Unfortunately, I have no specifics so I can't be sure they are AWARE of the latest software (like the TSB mentions).

    Thanks again for the feedback. These forums rock!
This discussion has been closed.