Chevrolet Impala TSBs/Recalls/Problem Codes
GM has now issued a Service Bulletin for the IP snaps and pops as has been discussed in this Forum. The service bulletin number is #06-08-49-011. The service fix is to remove the defroster panel, remove the attaching clips on its underside, install anti-itch tape to the clip post and re-install the clips. Anti-itch tape is also installed across the slots on the IP top pad where the clips engage. We have performed this fix on a number of GM company cars and all have been successfully corrected. Thanks to the customers in this forum. You were one of the sources for discovery of this problem.
This discussion has been closed.
#05122-updated calibration for electronic brake control module (EBCM). On SOME Impalas with 17" or 18" wheels and ABS.
#05083-replacement of ONSTAR module on some Impalas.
You can call your favorite dealer and ask if your vehicle is involved. (have your VIN handy)
There is a bulletin (06-06-02-002) about a clicking noise, heard from inside the vehicle, on the passenger side:
Some customers may comment on a ticking or clicking noise heard inside the vehicle on the passenger side. The noise may be noticeable with the engine on and at idle, with the vehicle in PARK, and with the HVAC and radio off.
The noise may be caused by normal EVAP purge valve operation. The EVAP purge valve operation may be internally grounding out, creating a noise path through the coolant inlet and outlet hoses/pipes
The fix is to replace the coolant inlet and outlet hoses/pipes with updated parts.
I went to my Chevy dealer for the break recall and also gave them the information you provided. They knew nothing about it but after checking verified your information. Made me feel good to know more than they did (lol).
Another question for you if you don't mind. My dealer called me back just a while ago and told me that the clicking sounds are indeed a result of the reason listed in the TSB. My question is how do they verify that? Is that something that would be diagnosed simply by plugging into the cars computer and reading a code?
Thanks again for the info, you were able to tell me what Chevy customer support and my dealer could not.
Your dealer tech probably listened to your car, trying to detect where the noise was coming from. He may have checked for codes. (There probably were none, codes are usually set because of oddball readings from sensors)
Then he would have gone looking for bulletins, then tried the repair in the bulletin. They call you and say "Yep, that did it!" and you say "Yippee"
Most diagnosis involves what I call 'tinkering'-check this measurement, wiggle that wire, push on this, try replacing that part, see what happens. Sometimes, the diagnosis takes as longer than the actual repair.
The TECHII computer can only give data and send a tech in the direction of the problem, it can't tell that that P0440 code was set because the gas cap was loose, the evap canister is leaking, or a mouse ate the wire that goes to the sensor that detects evap leaks.
Now if someone could tell me why my battery went dead in a 24 hour span I'd be really happy. :mad:
Out of curiosity what is the other fix? If the problem was caused only by the weather it's wierd that the insulation fix wouldn't correct it. We've had some very cold days since my vehicle was repaired and I still haven't had any more problems.
Another question if you don't mind. Are you aware of any problems with batteries draining for no apparent reason? My battery was drained to the point I couldn't start my vehicle after sitting for 24 hours. I bought a battery tester and it showed the alternator to be working and the battery holding a full charge. I haven't had the problem again which really has me puzzled. I'm positive that I didn't leave anything on but even if I had the vehicle has battery rundown protection. :confuse:
Thanks for your help.
FYI, it's almost spring here, and it would be nice to have it fixed before it warms up too much outside and the problem could disappear until next winter.
If I may also ask, how invasive are the fixes so far? Are we talking about opening up the dash (not liking that one, they're never the same after that, with squeaks and rattles), or something less intrusive? What are the parts that are clicking during warm-up?
Thanks, and we certainly appreciate all you folks working hard to nail this one!
Maku337 mentioned in an earlier post that he had heard of another vehicle that had the insulation added but still had a problem with the clicking. I'm wondering if maybe they didn't add enough because I don't see what other kind of fix their could be short of replacing the parts responsible for the noies.
If the clicking is occuring on my car, I wonder if I don't do this repair since it doesn't bother me, if something will break in the future?
what is anti-itch tape?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks for posting this! I have been trolling this forum for a few weeks now looking to see if anyone else had experienced this. My situation: Took car to dealer twice, 1st got more insulation, 2nd was "diagnosed" as normal opening and shutting of the "blend doors". Obviously, that 2nd time, and information, was BS. I look forward to going back to the dealership armed with this info :-).
You are the MAN (or woman)! I've already contacted my local dealer to verify with them that this TSB applies to my vehicle but it DEFINITELY sounds like it. You are my hero for the day!
To isolate this problem, simply unplug the TCC Solenoid, which usually has a connector going into the outer transfer case since it is electronically operated. The only thing you will miss out on is the economical mode the transmission provides above 55mph.
I have provided a couple of links to further explain this phenomena. The TCC solenoid from GM including the gasket are about $30-40. You can do it yourself but it can get messy as Transmission fluid will roll out of the case in order for you to repair and replace.
If you are feeling extremely lavish, you can always buy a new transmission but this isn't really necessary.
DTC P0742 TCC System Stuck On 3.8L
Go to http://www.NHTSA.gov for info on this problem found on a Malibu:
TSB #020730039E -- FIRM TRANSMISSION SHIFTS, SHUDDER/CHUGGLE, TRANSMISSION WON'T DOWNSHIFT ON DECELERATION, SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT ILLUMINATED, DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE P0742 SET. *TT UPDATE. *TT (NHTSA ID #10004756, AUGUST 01 2005)
The Chevy dealer did diagnosis by Tech 2, found the TCC solenoid problem. The dealer wants $880 to replace the solenoid because the long hours to take the stuffs apart. It looks like a huge job to open the transmission side case cover after I read the service manual, cause you need some special tools to hold the engine and take transaxle apart.
Most of my driving is on highway so I still want to spend the $880. Impala is a nice car, good size and gas mileage, but the transmission is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed].
I just looked at all of the crap you have to do to replace anything in the side case cover. What a joke. Chevrolet has just officially turned into a joke. On the older Chevy's, you could have this done in under two hours with parts(TCC Solenoid & Case Cover Gasket) costing less than $50. If you have tools and are the slightest bit proficient, you can still do it yourself. I am and I would still do it myself. If you take your time and fully prepare you can save some real money. See my links below and good luck. Don't let them WIN!!!
For GM parts quotes and a live database and very competitive parts prices, go to http://www.rockauto.com
Lastly, and this is for the benefit of everyone reading this forum. I recommend you try any one the links below for a GM SERVICE MANUAL of your VEHICLE. It is such a small investment and a complete set offers about 4000 pages of information concerning your automobile from head to toe. It is detailed down to the last screw and how tight it should be tightened during reassembly. It has troubleshooting guides for everything. Unlike Haynes and Chilton's, these manuals are written is very plain English and come complete with illustrations. The used ones on eBay are great and all you need to do is one or two repairs to get your money back and from then on you can save lots of money.
1. There are three full manuals that make a COMPLETE SET of the IMPALA Service Manual from 2000 thru 2005. Make sure there are three books with any set that you buy on eBay.
2. All of the 2001 thru 2005 manuals are essentially the same with little or no changes between each year. The 200 Impala Service Manuals are white with ONLY two volumes and I use this for my 2002 Impala. It's great so far. Try to stay away from the GM Service Manuals on CDROM unless you are technically proficient on computers and have a decent system with higher than average resources.
eBay SEARCH STRING:
(shop,service) (2000,2001,2002,2003,2004,2005) impala
http://search.ebay.com/shop-service-2000-2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-impala_W0QQcat- - - - - refZC5QQfclZ2QQfromZR7QQfrppZ200QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ3QQnojsprZyQQpfidZ0QQsacatZQ2d1QQ- - - - - satitleZQ28shopQ2cserviceQ29Q20Q282000Q2c2001Q2c2002Q2c2003Q2c2004Q2c2005Q29Q20i- - - - - mpalaQQsofocusZbs
In the event that you must have a NEW service manual for your GM car, then go to http://www.helm-inc.com
That helm link doesn't look right though.
Tried www.rackauto.com but could not find TCC solenoid. The Chevy dealer appointment is next monday. I really hope Larcone is running a garage near me. I tried to replace timing belt on my 2000 Camry, but failed to take off the crankshaft pulley bolt (22mm bolt). I am some kind of scared to do auto jobs.
Two, I just looked for the Solenoid and it says 'solenoid' in the parts selection tree, BUT it disappears after you select it. So the Rock Auto site is hosed for the moment.
CHEVROLET > 2003 > IMPALA > 3.4L > Transmission-Automatic > Solenoid
If you will call your GM dealership and ask for parts, you will find that the parts man can give you able price quotes for this part. The TCC Solenoid and the corresponding Transmission side case GASKET are all that is needed. I did this work on a Lumina as recently as a few years ago and these parts were about $38 or so.
Third, I agree that this job is not for the inexperienced. In years past, this used to be a lot simpler. To give yourself some time to decide, you can disconnect the TCC Solenoid by disconnecting the wiring harness for it just outside the Transmission case. I don't have the manual in front of me but this might not work in that Chevrolet has also two other solenoids inside this case area, that being the 1st-2nd shift and 2nd-3rd shift solenoids. So, even if you do get it apart, you may find that the TCC Solenoid is bad because of fluid contamination.....but that contamination may be a direct result of the one of the other two solenoids that will need replacing in order to prevent the dry side of the transfer case from filling up with fluid.
Noting your concerns, here is what I would do since you seem more predisposed to let a mechanic do it for you:
1. See if your car is still under warranty. After all, it is a 2003.
2. Ask the dealer for the Chilton hour-labor rating for this job. Chilton's make a manual that details what the labor rate should be for every job. This, combined with parts, will give you an idea of what the cost will be. I can't see more than 5 hours for this and parts are even less. You do the math.
3. I would be very reluctant to let any mechanic outside of a GM dealership do this work. The GM mechanics are well trained and they have the parts to get it all done right. You never said who gave you the quote but you might find a better deal at a dealership.
I'd be interested to know what you found out. I believe that $800 for this job is highway robbery but at least forces you to get two more price quotes to see if it is in line with the original quote.
Thu, Jun 8, 2006 Thu, May 25, 2006 01-02-32-001G Steering - Clunk Felt and or Heard From Front End on Turns
Several differences now. When both knobs selected for coldest air it automatically goes to recirculate. If you move both slight up it goes to outside air. Recent posts on Lacrosse board reflect this also.
The AC appears to be putting out even colder air now on recirculate that prior to TSB on recirculate.
Just curious...does your AC stay in recirculate even after shutting off the engine? Does it stay in recirculate as long as the temperature dials are set to the coldest setting? What trim level is your Impala? I would really like my AC to stay in recirc without having to set it each time I start the car. Has anyone else out there had this TSB service performed?
I have the car at the dealer now doing its first oil change and all 4 TSBs that came out on the Impala! The only TSB that really affects the car is the clicking noise coming from the engine at idle. I dont know if they are going to fix all 4 TSBs and not sure i want them to. They may screw something up!
They didn't replace my FOBs but said they were going to reprogram them. I had to bring both of them in and in the process, they mangled my spare key. I'm not at all pleased. I'd say my range is about 25ft at best (it varies) which makes remote starting worthless for me.
They claim to have checked my car and that the latest software was installed. Unfortunately, I have no specifics so I can't be sure they are AWARE of the latest software (like the TSB mentions).
Thanks again for the feedback. These forums rock!