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Chevrolet Impala TSBs/Recalls/Problem Codes

maku337maku337 Posts: 15
edited March 2014 in Chevrolet
GM has now issued a Service Bulletin for the IP snaps and pops as has been discussed in this Forum. The service bulletin number is #06-08-49-011. The service fix is to remove the defroster panel, remove the attaching clips on its underside, install anti-itch tape to the clip post and re-install the clips. Anti-itch tape is also installed across the slots on the IP top pad where the clips engage. We have performed this fix on a number of GM company cars and all have been successfully corrected. Thanks to the customers in this forum. You were one of the sources for discovery of this problem.


  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 613
    There are 2 recalls that involve 06 Impalas.

    #05122-updated calibration for electronic brake control module (EBCM). On SOME Impalas with 17" or 18" wheels and ABS.

    #05083-replacement of ONSTAR module on some Impalas.

    You can call your favorite dealer and ask if your vehicle is involved. (have your VIN handy)

    There is a bulletin (06-06-02-002) about a clicking noise, heard from inside the vehicle, on the passenger side:

    Some customers may comment on a ticking or clicking noise heard inside the vehicle on the passenger side. The noise may be noticeable with the engine on and at idle, with the vehicle in PARK, and with the HVAC and radio off.

    The noise may be caused by normal EVAP purge valve operation. The EVAP purge valve operation may be internally grounding out, creating a noise path through the coolant inlet and outlet hoses/pipes

    The fix is to replace the coolant inlet and outlet hoses/pipes with updated parts.
  • jz68jz68 Posts: 61
    Where did you get the information for the TSB about the clicking noises in the dash? I called chevy and they have no record of it and said that the number format you give isn't even the one used for a TSB.
  • I found the 2 TSBs (OnStar and ABS) here. Didn't see clicking one though.
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 613
    My info comes from GMDealerWorld, a website that is the primary method of communication between GM and dealerships. (I work for a Chevy 'ship) Maybe customer assistance uses Document numbers. TSB 06-06-02-002 is AKA document #1754128, it came out on January 24.
  • jz68jz68 Posts: 61
    You are the man!

    I went to my Chevy dealer for the break recall and also gave them the information you provided. They knew nothing about it but after checking verified your information. Made me feel good to know more than they did (lol).

    Another question for you if you don't mind. My dealer called me back just a while ago and told me that the clicking sounds are indeed a result of the reason listed in the TSB. My question is how do they verify that? Is that something that would be diagnosed simply by plugging into the cars computer and reading a code?

    Thanks again for the info, you were able to tell me what Chevy customer support and my dealer could not.
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 613
    Well, I am the 'Woman' ;) , but thanks! I'm glad I could help.

    Your dealer tech probably listened to your car, trying to detect where the noise was coming from. He may have checked for codes. (There probably were none, codes are usually set because of oddball readings from sensors)
    Then he would have gone looking for bulletins, then tried the repair in the bulletin. They call you and say "Yep, that did it!" and you say "Yippee"

    Most diagnosis involves what I call 'tinkering'-check this measurement, wiggle that wire, push on this, try replacing that part, see what happens. Sometimes, the diagnosis takes as longer than the actual repair.

    The TECHII computer can only give data and send a tech in the direction of the problem, it can't tell that that P0440 code was set because the gas cap was loose, the evap canister is leaking, or a mouse ate the wire that goes to the sensor that detects evap leaks.
  • jz68jz68 Posts: 61
    Would it be possible for you to post the entire contents of the TSB? I'm curious to read all of the details (if there are any).
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 613
    It's a pretty long bulletin (several pages). It gives step by step instructions for the repair. My dealership doesn't give out copies of bulletins (considered GM's property), so I won't print whole ones here.
  • jz68jz68 Posts: 61
    I was just curious since my dealer doesn't seem interested in telling me to much about it. The clicking noises I'm hearing seem to be originating from behind the instument panel and not on the passanger side. I'm afraid that they aren't paying attention to the TSB at all and that when I pick my car up tomorrow I'm going to hear the same clicking noises. It wouldn't be the first time my dealer replaced something on a vehicle of mine without it having been the cause of the problem. :cry:
  • Is the gentleman on the forum who works with squeaks and rattles at the Impala factory addressing the clicking noise during the assembly process so the car will not have this problem when it is delivered? You would think that if a TSB was issued on this potential problem it could be corrected at the factory.
  • jz68jz68 Posts: 61
    He sent me an email a couple weeks ago and I haven't heard from him since. My car has been fixed and I haven't had another problem as far as the clicking behind the dash goes.

    Now if someone could tell me why my battery went dead in a 24 hour span I'd be really happy. :mad:
  • JZ68, glad to hear the fix corrected your vehicle. It, unfortunately, did not correct another car a dealer here in Oshawa had. As I said in my e-mail to you, we are evaluating two potential fixes and, obviously, mine doesn't work all the time. The other fix has worked in all the vehicles we have tried it in so far. We are working with the part supplier to incorporate the fix quickly because I think there are more out in the field than we have seen. Thanks for your patience. Once we have a definite fix identified, we will work through the service group to release a bulletin.
  • jz68jz68 Posts: 61

    Out of curiosity what is the other fix? If the problem was caused only by the weather it's wierd that the insulation fix wouldn't correct it. We've had some very cold days since my vehicle was repaired and I still haven't had any more problems.

    Another question if you don't mind. Are you aware of any problems with batteries draining for no apparent reason? My battery was drained to the point I couldn't start my vehicle after sitting for 24 hours. I bought a battery tester and it showed the alternator to be working and the battery holding a full charge. I haven't had the problem again which really has me puzzled. I'm positive that I didn't leave anything on but even if I had the vehicle has battery rundown protection. :confuse:

    Thanks for your help.
  • maku337, if you can share, how close are you guys getting to the definitive fix? I've had the dash clicking problem for the past two months on a 3LT (built in October) during the colder Midwest weather, but haven't brought it in yet as it didn't sound like you have an official fix yet. As a customer, I didn't want to play beta tester (I know that probably sounds harsh, but look at it from the customer's perspective.)

    FYI, it's almost spring here, and it would be nice to have it fixed before it warms up too much outside and the problem could disappear until next winter.

    If I may also ask, how invasive are the fixes so far? Are we talking about opening up the dash (not liking that one, they're never the same after that, with squeaks and rattles), or something less intrusive? What are the parts that are clicking during warm-up?

    Thanks, and we certainly appreciate all you folks working hard to nail this one!
  • jz68jz68 Posts: 61
    The adding of the insulation required them to remove the top of my dash. I can tell because there is a small scratch that wasn't there before :mad: . I haven't had any problems with other noises because of it.

    Maku337 mentioned in an earlier post that he had heard of another vehicle that had the insulation added but still had a problem with the clicking. I'm wondering if maybe they didn't add enough because I don't see what other kind of fix their could be short of replacing the parts responsible for the noies.
  • jcooleyjcooley Posts: 46
    This fix appears different than just replacing the insulation. 02A/index.html

    If the clicking is occuring on my car, I wonder if I don't do this repair since it doesn't bother me, if something will break in the future?
  • 66novss66novss Posts: 12
    That TSB applies to the 3.5 & 3.9 V6 engines. The Impala SS has the 5.3 V8, so I don't think thats whats causing those to make that noise. I doubt if it would cause any problems, but it sure is anoying! :(
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,241
    >Anti-itch tape

    what is anti-itch tape?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • cjm315cjm315 Posts: 1
    Thanks for posting this! I have been trolling this forum for a few weeks now looking to see if anyone else had experienced this. My situation: Took car to dealer twice, 1st got more insulation, 2nd was "diagnosed" as normal opening and shutting of the "blend doors". Obviously, that 2nd time, and information, was BS. I look forward to going back to the dealership armed with this info :-).

  • 06fasst06fasst Posts: 48
    gm has posted a newtsb on out famous ip cracking noise check it out link title
  • steve333steve333 Posts: 201
    I guess this is different than the clacking noise TSB from the engine. That required a different fix.
  • axle52axle52 Posts: 36
    I know this is a old issue, but does any owners of the 06 LTZ Impala experience popping noises coming form the dash and is there a permanent fix for this yet.
  • maku337maku337 Posts: 15
    There is a TSB issued for the popping noises coming from the defroster grille panel. The TSB number is 06-08-49-011. Yes, there is a fix being implemented in the plant for this noise. Thanks again to the Edmunds posters who tipped us off about this noise.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    maku337, do you know if there are any bulletins on dashboard noise in Cobalts? I have a Cobalt too, and it is new (2006 with a December build date), and has an intermittent scratching noise coming from the dash area - sounds like a loose wire moving around in there and scratching the inside of the dash. (It isn't consistent enough to take to the dealer yet, but when its there its loud and annoying; sometimes, but very rarely, I get a buzzing noise like a vibration, but never both at the same time.) I realize Impalas are from Canada and Cobalts are from Ohio, but I thought I'd ask.
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    You are the MAN (or woman)! I've already contacted my local dealer to verify with them that this TSB applies to my vehicle but it DEFINITELY sounds like it. You are my hero for the day! :)

    Thanks again!!! ;)
  • gzbenhurgzbenhur Posts: 4
    2003 Impala 3.4L engine, mileage 62000. This car begun bumping when deacceleration and acceleration. Bumping came in randonly when drive with one or two persons, but definitely came in when drive with 3 or 4 men. Got P0742 (Torque Convertor Circuit Stuck On). Anyone got this code on an Impala? When did you do to fix it? I will send this car to Chevy dealer. More to follow up. :sick:
  • larconelarcone Posts: 9
    This reminds me of the transmission on the Chevrolet Celebrity and the Chevrolet Lumina. It very well could be the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid, located in the outer casing of the tranmission of the driver's side. There is a gasket that goes bad, allowing fluid to leak into this outer compartment which is otherwise dry and allows the solenoid to work correctly. This outer compartment/casing ends up filling with fluid and subsequently shorting the TCC Solenoid. The end result is a shudder when decelerating off of the free way and the vehicle even dying at idle at a red light, etc.

    To isolate this problem, simply unplug the TCC Solenoid, which usually has a connector going into the outer transfer case since it is electronically operated. The only thing you will miss out on is the economical mode the transmission provides above 55mph.

    I have provided a couple of links to further explain this phenomena. The TCC solenoid from GM including the gasket are about $30-40. You can do it yourself but it can get messy as Transmission fluid will roll out of the case in order for you to repair and replace.

    If you are feeling extremely lavish, you can always buy a new transmission but this isn't really necessary.

    DTC P0742 TCC System Stuck On 3.8L

    Go to for info on this problem found on a Malibu:

  • gzbenhurgzbenhur Posts: 4
    Thanks Larcone, you gave all the answer to this problem.
    The Chevy dealer did diagnosis by Tech 2, found the TCC solenoid problem. The dealer wants $880 to replace the solenoid because the long hours to take the stuffs apart. It looks like a huge job to open the transmission side case cover after I read the service manual, cause you need some special tools to hold the engine and take transaxle apart.
    Most of my driving is on highway so I still want to spend the $880. Impala is a nice car, good size and gas mileage, but the transmission is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed].
  • larconelarcone Posts: 9
    You can always just disconnect the TCC Solenoid by disconnecting the wiring harness on the outside of the vehicle. You won't get the super cruise energy efficiency at highway speed but you will eliminate the problem for the moment.

    I just looked at all of the crap you have to do to replace anything in the side case cover. What a joke. Chevrolet has just officially turned into a joke. On the older Chevy's, you could have this done in under two hours with parts(TCC Solenoid & Case Cover Gasket) costing less than $50. If you have tools and are the slightest bit proficient, you can still do it yourself. I am and I would still do it myself. If you take your time and fully prepare you can save some real money. See my links below and good luck. Don't let them WIN!!!

    For GM parts quotes and a live database and very competitive parts prices, go to

    Lastly, and this is for the benefit of everyone reading this forum. I recommend you try any one the links below for a GM SERVICE MANUAL of your VEHICLE. It is such a small investment and a complete set offers about 4000 pages of information concerning your automobile from head to toe. It is detailed down to the last screw and how tight it should be tightened during reassembly. It has troubleshooting guides for everything. Unlike Haynes and Chilton's, these manuals are written is very plain English and come complete with illustrations. The used ones on eBay are great and all you need to do is one or two repairs to get your money back and from then on you can save lots of money.

    1. There are three full manuals that make a COMPLETE SET of the IMPALA Service Manual from 2000 thru 2005. Make sure there are three books with any set that you buy on eBay.

    2. All of the 2001 thru 2005 manuals are essentially the same with little or no changes between each year. The 200 Impala Service Manuals are white with ONLY two volumes and I use this for my 2002 Impala. It's great so far. Try to stay away from the GM Service Manuals on CDROM unless you are technically proficient on computers and have a decent system with higher than average resources.

    (shop,service) (2000,2001,2002,2003,2004,2005) impala

    LINK: - - - - refZC5QQfclZ2QQfromZR7QQfrppZ200QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ3QQnojsprZyQQpfidZ0QQsacatZQ2d1QQ- - - - - satitleZQ28shopQ2cserviceQ29Q20Q282000Q2c2001Q2c2002Q2c2003Q2c2004Q2c2005Q29Q20i- - - - - mpalaQQsofocusZbs

    In the event that you must have a NEW service manual for your GM car, then go to
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