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Chevrolet Cobalt General Care & Maintenance



  • The filter you are talking about is inside the gas tank with the sending unit (fuel pump). I am talking about the filter that is under the car above the metal beam that spans between the rear tires. That is a fuel filter.
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    gm parts does list a fuel filter for about 35.00 but no view of part. most gm fuel filter are near the tank and are mounted with a ban to the frame. the filter may have different was of retaining the fuel lines. most common are the filter with 22mm and the fuel line 5/8in. hexhead. i will look at mine and see if it has one.
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    harris- I'll have to crawl under my 2007, but off hand, the only component I know of above or near the rear axle beam is the EVAP system. The 'charcoal box' and associated plumbing/hardware is up in there. That's rather huge though.

  • Is there any lap top software that will read the car's coumpter? Read and reset & change the car's functions?
    Whae can I get it?

    E-mail me
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    well i did peek at mine and their is something that appears to be a filter. but it has three lines 1 in and two out. it is retained by the same kind of mounting sleeve as most gm filters. but i am not convinced it is pump to engine fuel filter. see if you can get in touch with poncho maybe he can help he seems to have alot of resources. these lines don't look like pressure lines. :confuse:
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    If that component has black poly/plastic lines, it's part of the evap system. It's not a fuel filter.

  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    yes it does and doesn't appear to have a common disconnect on the metal line at the unit. :)
  • Went under the car. I loosened the belly band with a 10 mm socket and there's a number: 15233476 on the filter. The AC DELCO number is GF 821 and the PURALATOR number is F-44605.
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    what is it and what does it due. i didn't think it looked like a regular filter. but i would like to know what it's function is. :confuse:
  • See

    for full description of Purolator fuel filter F44605
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    thats not what mine looks like
  • The PURALATOR number is wrong. Double checked the AC DELCO number and it is right. Sorry for the mistake.
  • AC Delco lists their GF 821 as follows

    GF surely stands for "gas filter" Is this what you've been looking for?
  • We have a certificate for a free oil change and filter at our local chevy dealer. When I asked the service manager what oil they used, he said they only use 10w-30 bulk oil. It is written in the owners manual that the car only uses 5w-30. It specifically says not to use 5w-40 and 20w-50 but it doesn't say anything about 10w-30. Will I get into trouble using 10w-30?

    The oil filter at the local chevy dealer costs $7.75 without tax.
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    your chevy dealer will say it is gm oil and will have a number of different bulk lubricantsmy cobalt it seems has to have mobil 1 and they stock it for gm cars with this requirement.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    GM Goodwrench oil used to be made be Mobil one, non-synthetic. I am not sure what they are using now, it could be still Mobil. I am surprised your manual doesn't show 10w-30 as an option. 10w-30 is a good summer weight, but I put in my winter/all around grade 5w-30 yesterday.
  • wr_guywr_guy Posts: 13
    They recomend 5/30 because it is easier to pump and gives better gas mileage year 'round. Also modern manufacturing tolerances are tighter than ever and they want the thin oil to reach all the tight spaces in the motor.

    I would not use 10/30 oil in a new motor, but I would use it in a car with over 40k miles in the summer at least.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Most of what I have read is that 10/30 and 10/40 weight are prefered during the summer, and 5/30 is good to put in during the winter or as a year round oil. I use 10/30 in the summer for better mileage.
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    You cant go wrong with sticking with what the manufacturer specs, which is currently 5w-30 for the 2.2L Ecotec. I have seen used oil analysis reports on an Ecotec 2.2L running 5w-20. The numbers consistantly came back spotless based on 7-10Kmi oil change intervals, so 5w-20 or 0w-20 also work perfectly in the 2.2L. Today's 5w-30 are so consistantly good, I don't see the point of 10w-30 anymore. Why start a cold engine on a 10wt when you can get oil pumping faster with a 5wt? They are both a 30wt at normal operating temps. There's no point in it and TONS of data to back that up.

  • The manual I am talking about is the one that comes with the car. On page 289 it says Do Not Use SAE 10w40- SAE 20w50 or any other viscosity grade oil not recommended which should include 10w30.

    We live in New Orleans and this Jan I will change to synthetic oil 5w30. The car still has factory oil and only 1200 miles.
  • Is anybody else having problems with the screw ends that go thru the door chipping the paint on the front posts?
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    Anyone else experiencing a flutter or RPM bounce when the transaxle shifts into 4th during moderate acceleration? This is on my 2007 2.2L, 4T45E equipped Cobalt. It seems to only happen once fully warmed and I'm not positive if it's happening on the 3-4 upshift or during torque converter lockup in 4th. There is no check engine light and other than that, it runs flawlessly and has been perfect. I have heard of one or two other 2007 owners with the same concern. No issue was found by their respective dealership service depts. I'm also not exactly sure if this is a throttle by wire problem, transmission problem, etc.. Basically the tach will bounce up/down about 500RPMs at about half second intervals during what feels like the 3-4 shift. You can hear it and feel it as well.

  • cmhj2000cmhj2000 Se, Pa.Posts: 372
    Hey Joel, good to see you over here.

    Your concern/issue is one I've not seen or heard yet. However, I'll put the word out.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    I always drove S.U.V.s and Vans in the past and I never had snow tires installed on them. I drove all year with all season tires. Now that I purchased a Cobalt I wonder if I should put snow tires on it. It's smaller and lighter compare to a S.U.V. or Van and I figure the weight of the car could make a difference in the snow.
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    You won't know until you try your Cobalt in your conditions. My experience with smaller FWD cars in Buffalo NY winters is, they are pretty good in the snow with OEM style tires. Nothing goes good on ice and not much will help you if you bottom out in deep snow.

  • If you can go 50,000 to 100,000 miles between transmission fluid changes, are they using regular or synthetic transmission fluid? And if you have to, can you use synthetic transmission fluid?
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    Dexron VI ATF is pretty much used across the GM line now. It's advantages are the capability of extended drains, so it has synthetic components in it. If you did a pan drop, cleaning and filter change somewhere before 50Kmi, you'd be good to go until 100Kmi or beyond. I wouldn't let my 4T45E go to 100Kmi if I was keeping the vehicle long term. These transaxles are decent ones, but none of them are bullet proof.

  • Hello Everyone...
    I drive an 06 Chev Cobalt SS, Although it is not supercharged...
    I am wondering what RPMs it should be running at when I'm driving down the highway...
    can anyone help me out??
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    60 mph at about 2000 rpm 80 mph at about 3000 rpm
  • Joel.... I have been experiencing the same problem. I have had my coblat back to the dealer several times, and they can not seem to find the problem. My Cobalt also is a 2007 2.2L. My problem also happens once the vehicle is warmed up.

This discussion has been closed.