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Pontiac Grand Am Brakes



  • i have a 95 grand am 3.1 liter v6 automatic. a few days a go this problem started. the car brakes fine until i almost come to a complete stop and then the car surges forward, its almost like the bakes let off the rotor or something. it still does this problem when i slow down in neutral so its gotta be the brake i know it is because i can feel the pedal, well the problem went away and now its back, no abs light is on and brake fluid reservoir is full.brake pads looks doesn't do this when i slam on the brakes and if i could describe it it almost feels like a car when you slam the brakes and the abs kicks on.
  • tcravertcraver Posts: 1
    I'm new here and in need of help and info. On my daughters car a 92 Grand Am, The brake lines blew. Along story short the lines were cut of the cylinder on the engine. I just shook my head. It has 4 lines coming out.
    1. Does it matter which line goes to what wheel?
    2. If it does, from the front of the cylinder which line goes to what wheel?

    Thanks for any help
    Robert befudled in Iowa
  • I have been looking online and have found many posible causes from warped rotors to needing to set my e-brake everyttime i park to keep the brakes adjusted. the e-brake solution seemed silly to me but it does seem to help alittle but does not fix the problem at all. it also does not vibrate when i use the e-brake to stop making me think the problem is in the front end. looking for a cheat easy solution since i have a brand new baby boy. please help!!!
  • If you feel the vibrating or pulsing when braking then the problem would be warped front rotors. I'm replacing mine today on my '01 Grand Am because of the same problem. The only solutions are to replace the rotors or have them turned which means the rotors are ground down to smooth them out. That can be done at most auto parts stores.
  • I have an 04 and my rear drums keep warping?.?.?
    Why is that. I was told they are near impossible to destroy.
    I am working on my second drum in 2 years.

    Can anyone help?
  • ok heres the thing; my car has a 4cl engen and i was wasnt watching much and was told i had a 6cl engan so i got breaks for a 6cl will mess up my car i have drove about 2000 miles sence i changed breaks. and will it mess my car up useing a house sub hucked up to back speaker
  • is any one going to halp?!?!?!?
  • :( is any one going to halp?!?!?!?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    There's no difference in brake linings based on engine. As for your other question, I believe your asking if connecting a subwoofer in parallel to the back speakers will cause any problems. Yes, the overall impedence will be lower to the rear channel overall and it will damage the amplifier if not done right.
  • eliz4eliz4 Posts: 5
    After reading the rotor posts, I'm sure I have the same problem. My '02 GA has intermitten shaking while on the highway and will shake when I brake from 55mph to a stop.

    What is the typical cost of rotor replacement ( ball park) and would it cost less if I could pick the rotors up myself and if so, what would I need to know about buying them?

    Thanks much!
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    In my experience, a good set of rotors will run about $80 - $90, and brake linings about $45 or so (for good quality). If you replace the rotors replace the pads also.
  • eliz4eliz4 Posts: 5
    Thanks bd......

    That's what's happening, I brought her in and they are doing both rotors ( both warped) and pads. Incedently, my calipers had to be done as well a few years ago. I'm also replacing all my tires.

    From these posts, I see these are very common problems w/ GA's. Anything else I need to know before I invest more $$$?

    Thanks a mil!
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Don't use the cheap $20 rotors that some supply houses sell - they are all from China or South America where there's known deficiencies in the casting process. A good set costs more but will last longer and has much less tendency to warp.
    If you drive in a lot of traffic then slow down and keep off the brakes as much as possible. N-body cars (Grand Am, Alero, etc) are hard on front brakes to start with. GM didn't help by buying cheap rotors to start with, but that's water under the bridge now.
  • I have 2002 Pontiac Grand Am, 102K miles. Starting in mid-December the brakes would not work when the car was first started. You had to pump them a few times to get them to work after the car sat for a long time (roughly 3 hrs). Took it in and had the brake fluids flushed and brake pads checked out. It has lifetime brake pads and those are fine but Dealer cannot find anything wrong with it. Any ideas?
  • eliz4eliz4 Posts: 5
    Finally got my car done last week. Rotors, brakes, new tires, etc...Over 500$!
    But THAT is not the half of it.....

    I picked up the car to see the front bumper damaged. I was so upset and bottom line, the owner said I did it and it was all my fault. I was so livid and finally gave him his check. I contacted an attorney and he said my word against his. I reported the garage to the BBB and they are unable to help, they said out of their jurisdiction. So, now this rotor problem has turned into a body problem...Geeeesh ( btw- they didn't have any insurance, only for the garage not the property, I guess this is legal)....

    Lesson learned....your family mechanic might be more expenny, but in the long run they know how to take care of your auto after repair.....
  • theodormtheodorm Posts: 1
    I have been having the exact same problem this year! I have a 2000 Grand AM with about 62K miles. Can someone please point us in the right direction? I don't want to take it into the shope without having a good idea what the cause is. I read a couple of articles that seemed to point to the "accumulator" but I am no expert. Also, I have not received any indication via idiot lite or other sensor from my car that something is wrong. However it seems that the colder the weather, the more pumps required at start-up; like 10+ on a typical winter day. Some please advise!
  • tnk530tnk530 Posts: 1
    My husband went to change my front brakes on my 2001 Grand AM (which he has doen many times before). When he went to remove the calipre. He could not get it off. What does this mean? He tried pulling on it with force but that did not work. Is this an expensive problem to fix?
  • debtdebt Posts: 10
    Yes I do. I have a 1999 Grand Am SE and just had the front and back rotors turned and new brake pads on front and back. When I brake, I hear a grinding noise that was not there before. My mechanic thinks that is is coming from the rear and feels if they take off the 1st layer of the ceramic pad that it might stop the noise. I've always had brake issues with this car from the day it was new. Good Luck :mad:
  • sorin1sorin1 Posts: 4
    i have a 2004 grand am se with a 2.2L in it. just bought it second hand. the brake pedal is kinda soft. i have to push it down to the metal to get reaction from it. the car has about 22 kmiles on it so i guess it sat around quite a lot. maybe some contamination in the lines? air trapped in the lines? some mechanic was saying something about the master cylinder being bad, something common for these cars. does any of you know if this might be the case?
  • sorin1sorin1 Posts: 4
    i agree with you. dont get cheap stuff, because it's your safety. me, i never turn the rotors, because this makes them thiner and this causes them to warp faster. i paid premium for lifetime warranty oversized brake pads (change them every year, just before fall, weather i need to do that or not) and usualy about every 2 years i put in new rotors. the last ones i put in are drilled and slotted for better cooling and gas venting. it didn't cost much and i think it's gonna do a better work. one way to do it is to take the ones from the store (if you dont want to buy from certified) and take them to local mechanics. there are a few out there which have fixtures for drilling the rotors.
  • sorin1sorin1 Posts: 4
    what issues did he have with the brakes? soft pedal? long travel?
  • t0yb0yt0yb0y Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Grand Am GT that has the front passenger brake caliper not releasing properly and smoking after short drives. I have replaced the caliper and brake pads but the issue is still happening. I did notice when I had the brake line off no fluid drained out of it, however when I bleed the caliper it did release fluid then. I haven't ruled out the possibility of the new caliper being bad as well. Any ideas?
  • amh1amh1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Grand Am (Love it!). I've had it for 8 years and now have over 130,000 miles on it. My brake light was coming on when I was turning corners then turning itself off within 2-3 minutes. I took it to my friend who's a mechanic and he said the brake fluid was low. He couldn't find any leaks so he told me that it was probably a Master Cylinder (about $65 at auto parts store) and said it was an easy enough fix that it could be done at home if you have a friend that knows a little about cars. He topped off my brake fluid reservoir and showed me where it was so I could watch to see if it got low again without an apparent leak (if it did then it was the cylinder). Hope this helps someone!!
  • Its your Wheel speed sensor . it keeps the car from locking up when car decelerates
  • Did you ever figure this out? I am having the same problem!
  • Brakes make a grinding sound and act like the abs is activating when I brake. This all seemed to happen after a car wash. someone said that the sensor may need to be replaced. Anybody have any Ideas? Thanks Russ
  • I have this exact problem today... was there ever a solution here????

    PLEASEEE Help!
  • rodricusrodricus Posts: 1
    i have replaced abs pump, master cylinder, front rotors, calibers..pads and rear wheel cylinders,,,brakes still going to the floor dont know what else to do.... also, is there a special way to bleed them?
  • I was having brake problems with my 2004 grand am. After I changed the brakes, they would wear out on the outside of the passenger side. I changed the caliper and the pads. Still didn't fix it. I changed the brake hose and bled the brakes. Still had wear on the brakes. :mad:

    I brought my car into a few mechanics and they couldn't figure it out. Finally at Brakeway in Louisville, KY, they found out that I installed my brake pads backwards and the hardware (clips) weren't fitting properly. Each time I changed my brake pads, I would match them up with how they were previously. This way, they were always put on wrong! :blush:

    So, if you have problems with the brakes wearing faster than normal, they may need to be properly installed. I hope this helps you! :)
  • bob252bob252 Posts: 48
    I hope this helps, I would look at the brake switch above the brake pedal, as if you recall when applying the brake it disconnects the cruise control (like it does on the highway) as for the dummy (warning light) check to make sure the emergency brake handle is all the way down, it may be a combo of both. The switch usualy is only pushed into its' holder and is adjustable. at least this is where to start, don't know of any more things I can think of, but I hope that this helps.
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