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Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • tonerbonertonerboner Member Posts: 7
    Really? That's all just the plastic and the belt? That seems simple. I don't have to do anything special to the sensor?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited September 2012
    > I don't have to do anything special to the sensor?

    Make sure it doesn't rub on the balancer when you reinstall. After 93, from what I've read, the CPS is not adjustable in any way. I haven't done one, but I've kept reading about them because my 98 has 193,000 miles and I've expected it to give problems, but it hasn't. Runs so well I can't get rid of it.

    The other thing it could be is your ISC under the coil packs. Check the wire connector on it for a good connection.

    An anecdotal test for CPS is to pour cold water on it when it won't start after a hot soak sit. See if that speeds up the cool down and resulting improvment in the magnetic field so it can trigger the ISC.

    Also, take off a plug wire and put in a spare spark plug from anything, lay the plug on engine metal, and have someone crank while you watch for spark. That will tell you if you spark and it might be fuel. If you get no spark, then you know you're in the right area in the ignition system.

    But if it were mine, I'd start with the CPS with your repetitive symptoms. Lots of people have fought various other parts and replaced by guessing only to end up with the CPS.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    makes sense to test something before you replace it.
  • tonerbonertonerboner Member Posts: 7
    edited September 2012
    I have a 1990 le sabre, will It just be a plug an play? Sorryfor all the newb questions just trying to get it all sortedbefore I go do it. Were would the ICS be located on v6 3800? How would I go about testing the cps. Just dump cold water on it just like that? Lol sorry just always thought water messes with electonic components.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's not so easy to replace. You have to pull off the harmonic balancer (engine pulley).

    I like the idea of testing a few things while the no-start condition is happening---testing both for spark and for fuel pressure.
  • tonerbonertonerboner Member Posts: 7
    How would you test for fuel? I know how to test for spark. Another thing I've noticed is that when I'm trying to restart it will smell like gas. That's the main reason I've been focusing on the sensors. I think there's something telling the brain to not turn on(for unknown reason) when hot. That's why my initial thought was cts.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited September 2012
    This link shows your coil pack and your control module for the spark.

    link title

    This shows the coil and module on the engine (#89)

    link title

    This link shows the crankshaft balancer (#53) and the crankshaft position sensor (#58).

    link title

    Puller for the harmonic balancer on crankshaft from Autozone. I do NOT believe this is in their loaner tools--you'd have to ask the local store.

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Heavy-duty-harmonic-balancer-pu- ller-set/_/N-26b8?itemIdentifier=532440&_requestid=3077447

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    thanks for posting all that useful info imidazol! Very kind of you to help out.

    As for "testing for fuel", you (the owner) might pull a spark plug to see if there's fuel on it---if so, that pretty much tells you that the issue is ignition related.
  • tonerbonertonerboner Member Posts: 7
    Thank you both for the help guys. I tested and ended up with no spark. Changed the cps and problem solved. I really wasnt that hard to remove, but nonetheless it's done thank you guys. God bless
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Thanks for posting what you found, good or bad.

    For others reading this, your description seemed very consistent that it would shut down after hot. Then had to cool for restart. As Mr. Shiftright suggested, there may be other causes. But because this one gave one type of symptom, I felt the CPS was a good start.

    The fuel pumps that I've read about aren't as consistent in their symptoms posted by folks on H-body forums I frequent. The ISC, spark control unit under the coils, also is not consistent in most symptoms.

    This particular car did have the Magnavox coils which are a unit rather than 3 coils like later 3800's. These can give problems, but not consistent as a cutoff.

    Diagnosis is key.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • sagemoonsagemoon Member Posts: 2
    edited December 2012
    Hello, I have a 1993 Buick Lesabre 90th anniversary edition. I got it 4 years ago and had about 55,000miles on it. It now has about 115,000. It started several months ago where in the morning it will start fine and then shortly thereafter driving between 25-30 mph in would just die. Hwys it does not do this. Sometimes it would restart right away but most of the time I would have to pull over and let it sit for 10-15 minutes and them it would start. I would also turn the ignition forward and hold for about 5 seconds and then off and I would do this on and off during the 10-15 minute wait. It would then start and drive fine. It did this maybe once or twice a month. Just recently, the check engine light came on and it wants to die when ever the gas is off, slowing down to stop. Put it in neutral and will restart right away but keeps wanting to die. It also cuts out a lot when going up hills and when wanting to accelerate fast. Also, the gas petal was sticking just a little bit and when put in park the engine would rev up. Turned car off and back on and it stopped. any suggestions? thxs
  • bobbydingbobbyding Member Posts: 7
    Mine was having similar problems.... Die while driving. Sometime I could restart it right away (while coasting in neutral) and sometimes I had to pull over and let it sit for 15 minutes. It turned out to be the crank sensor, or at least the wiring going to it. I found that if I jiggled the wires leading to it, it would restart immediately. I think it cost me $150 for a mechanic to change the sensor. No problem since. Good luck!!
  • sagemoonsagemoon Member Posts: 2
    thanks, I put in a new mass air flow sensor today and drove the buick around the block, I could tell it was acting happier, accelerated good and did not cut out going up a 45 degree slope. Went up a little more steeper slope and very lightly tried to cut out plus was not trying to die every time I slowed down. However, my check engine light is still on! Maybe the next thing is the crank sensor, looks really involved to try and change myself though.
  • whoppawhoppa Member Posts: 1
    Well, I had a new starter put on my vehicle thinking that was the problem as to why it would not start. So, it started about 3 or 4 times since the new starter has been put, but currently is not starting. Also, when I started it for the 1st time since putting the new starter on, the engine was a little shaky. After, I drove it a few miles and turned it off and on, the shaking gradually stopped. So, then I ran a few errands and the car was fine, but after running my last errand the car would not start. That has been 2 days ago and the car still will not start. Could somebody please tell me what the hell is going on?
  • seltzergalseltzergal Member Posts: 3
    I'd like to know if the original wiper arms on the 1993 LeSabre were the hook or peg style. I purchased a pair of Bosch Evolution #4822 wipers which are "supposed" to fit the 1993; but they don't. The hole isn't big enough to fit over the peg. When I phoned Bosch they asked if they were the original arms. I can't answer that because I bought the car used about 3 years ago. The Bosch tech was surprised I didn't have the hook style. When I last had wipers put on, the mechanic had problems getting a size with a hole that would fit the peg. So I'm wondering if these are the original arms. Thanks for any help you can give me!

    :D
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    There are many things that could be the problem. Diagnosis may help find it. Are you able to do things to diagnose?

    You are saying it will not start. Is that it will not crank or that it will crank but won't fire up and run normally?

    If it won't crank, do you have more than one key? Try the other key to see if the security system likes that key.

    If it cranks and won't start, does the exhaust smell like gasoline? Hold the accelerator to the floor while cranking to clear flooding. Then pull of the vacuum tube on the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and see if you smell raw gasoline in the tube. If the car does start, pull off the tube and see if gasoline comes out the opening of the FPR after 2 minutes of idling or more? There should be none.

    If it cranks and it won't start, take off one of the front spark plug wires and lay it against metal. Have someone crank the car. The spark should jump the 1/4 inch gap with a blue spark. If there's no spark, then you have narrowed down your problem to a bad spark control module (ignition control module under the three coils) or the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) which is one thing that triggers the spark.

    Is there full fuel pressure? Weak fuel pump? Or a badly plugged fuel filter? One test would be to spray ether or carburetor cleaner into the throttle body as someone cranks. You must take off the rubber tube leading up to it from the air filter assembly.

    Another thing is the MAF. The test is to take off the leads to the MAF and see if the car starts.

    If it runs really badly, it could be spark plug wires (test by spraying water with a bit of salt in it over the wires while car's running to see if you get sparking). Or it could be the EGR, and that can be tested by tapping on it with something heavy like the end of a screwdriver to make sure the opening is closed off by the plunger.

    http://www.greatautohelp.com/sensor-location/3800.html

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bildabonebildabone Member Posts: 4
    while driving my car stalls.IT will not stsrt.I changed the fuel filter ,put a new mass air flow sensor,and a fuel pressure regulater.It started right up and ran fine.I turned it off and it till not start. I checked the fuel pump with a fuel pressure gage and it read 43 psi.Like its supposed to . I dont know what else to do.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Does it start after it has sat for a time, say 30 minutes? If it cuts off like a switchw as cut off but then restarts after a time, the crankshaft position sensor is a likely culprit. You can try moving the wires to it and squeezing the connector for those wires to see if it's a connection or a break in a wire to the crankshaft position sensor--with the car off, of course.

    If it stalls, you can try throwing cold water on the crankshaft position sensor to cool it. That sometimes speeds the restart.

    The other possiblility with an electrical shut off like that is the spark control module connections or the module itself under the coils.

    To test for the crank or spark control, remove one of the spark plug wires on the front and lay it on engine metal. With someone cranking the car, there should be spark to ground. No spark means you're not getting that.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bildabonebildabone Member Posts: 4
    i forgot to mention that when I put some starting fluid in the intake it fires up for a second
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited May 2013
    That's a good test and helps.

    What year is your car?

    So, you need to test the injectors to see if they are firing. People say you can use the two leads of a 194 bulb and put those into the connector for an injector while cranking and you should be able to see the very short flash as the 12 volt pulse hits. Or use a voltmeter.

    From what I read, if you have no pulse to the injectors that can be related to the crankshaft position sensor as well. Or there is a fuse, according to this article, on the passenger side A pillar below the dash where there are relays and a few fuses. There is a 10 amp fuse on that inside board on my 98 for the injectors power. The injectors are fired by grounding through the PCM. I've been assuming your car is a 92-99 model. If you have a 94-95, the PCMs occasionally have more problems than other years, but those often involve rough running or barely running.

    Here's a long 5 page discussion of a problem that might include diagnotic steps that will help you. Good luck with this one.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bildabonebildabone Member Posts: 4
    Before I go any further .Please tell me if this is possible,with all of the injecters out but connected to the fuel rail,if I crank the engine will the injecters fire off and release fuel,ifr everything is working correctly.And by the way its a 94 lasabre
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited May 2013
    The injector is grounded through the black wire to the connector and gets power on the other line, so it should spray fuel: doesn't need to be connected to engine. But I don't know if that's safe, because it will be spraying out fuel in a vapor in a very explosive form if it finds a weak plug wire, etc.

    But since the car runs with ether, you're doing the right kind of troubleshooting.

    If you have a voltmeter try testing for a pulse when the PCM grounds each injector while cranking. Did you read the link I put in the prevous post? Is your injector fuse okay providing power? Note that you have a 94 with the higher failure rate on PCMs.

    BTW, did you disconnect the MAF sensor to see if the car would run with it off putting the car back in a different mode? MAF sensors get replaced because they are easy to blame. I've never had to do one on 4 cars that have had one even with high mileage. I read more about problems with replacement brands in Bonneville and leSabre discussions. AND disconnecting it and the car working in a limp mode does not mean the MAF is bad. It's only a diagnostic step. A longtime shade tree mechanic up the road from me worked on another neighbor's Monte Carlo, 95, and symptoms of running rough and occasionally dying. Disconnected MAF, ran. Replaced. Still had problem. Disconnected MAP. Ran. Replaced. Still had problem. Took to transmission buddy who knows diagnostics and had engine tools, and it turned out to be something else. But they had put hundreds into the MAF and MAP sensor on the 24-valve engine.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bildabonebildabone Member Posts: 4
    edited May 2013
    I DID READ YOUR EARLIER POSTS AND i DONT HAVE THE REQUIRED VOLT METER BUT i WAS TESTING THE INJECTORS WITH A TEST LIGHT AND BY ACCIDENT THE INJECTER RELEASED FUEL INTO THE PORT .i KNEW THIS BECAUSE i STILL HAD THE FUEL PRESSUER GAGE STILL ATTACHED SO AS I CHECKED THE REMAINING IJECTORS i PURPOSLY RELEASED FUEL IN ALL POTS,NATURALLY IT FIRED UP BUT NEVER RAN. SO THE INJECTORS ARENT RELEASING FUEL.AND YOU SAY THEPCM'S CONTROLL THIS ?.FORGIVE ME BUT WHERE ARE THE PCM'S.AND ALL FUSES ARE GOOD
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited May 2013
    The PCM is the computer controlling the powertrain.
    It's under the air intake or inside the air intake in the engine compartment.

    Or it's against the passenger side of the A-pillar inside the car under the dash.

    Without rereading all your posts, remember if the crankshaft position sensor is not sending certain pulses, there will be no spark and no injector pulses.

    I'm beyond my troubleshooting ability here, so I may not be able to be of help. But are you getting spark on a plug when you lay the wire against metal on the engine or you lay an old spark plug with the plug wire attached against metal, do you get the spark across the gap?

    When you say your car runs if you use ether, that would indicate it's getting at least a weak spark.

    I gave you one test for pulses to an injector using a 194 bulb wires plugged into the injector lead.

    I forget what year your car is now... aaah, 1994.

    The problem with just replacing parts, is you can spend up a lot of money with guessing. And it requires a test device to really see what's not happening that is giving you the problem.

    Does someone you know have a 94 where you can switch the PCM to see if yours is the trouble?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,142
    It's awesome, patient, and comprehensive responses like this series that got you the "Spotlight Member" nomination & win.
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f277491
    Thanks for all you do to help!

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  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    On the injectors with the key ON, there should be voltage to each of the pink w/black stripe wires. You will need a cheap voltmeter to verify that. The PCM will ground each of those to fire the injector. The PCM may be defective in the circuit for the ground for those (called quaddrivers If I Recall Correctly). Or the process that tells the PCM when to fire which cylinder may not be working right.

    When the PCM senses the engine starting to crank, all injectors are fired in unison one time to put some fuel into the intakes to be ready for the first firing cycle.

    This is getting beyond my ability level. I think it needs some circuit checking and probably needs a TECH II scanner that dealers use and some shops have equivalents for.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • tndayotndayo Member Posts: 4
    This recently just started happening.
    I have a 1991 Buick LaSabre with 76k miles. The car turns on just fine, it drives just fine, but when the car becomes idle, as in I stop at a red light or stop sign, the engine just cuts off. I took it to an autoshop and they told me it was the Idle Air Control Valve so I got it replaced. Drove it down the street and it stalled again. The mechanic did a power check on the valve and says there's some electrical issues short circuiting the valve. They put the old valve back in and I took it to another auto shop because they don't deal with electrical issues. The second auto shop told me just by looking at the engine that it seems like there's a vacuum leak but didn't know where. I called the first auto shop and they didn't believe that it was a vacuum leak. Has anyone else had this issue or may know what the issue is? I'm not that savvy with cars.

    The engine doesn't cut off every time when I'm idle. When it doesn't cut off, it sounds like the car is struggling to stay running, like you can hear the engine drop then go back to normal. I have changed the oil, refilled the coolant, and changed the car battery. My next step is to get the car tuned up because it has been a while. Another thing I noticed is that my temp light would flicker whenever I have the AC on.. I don't know if they're related or not. At first I thought the car was overheating but it doesn't seem like it since my radiator fan is working and its taking the coolant. Anywho, does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
  • bildabone1bildabone1 Member Posts: 1
    I am currently going thru the same problem.The guys here have given plenty of suggestions and they have been really helpful.For me the mass air flo senser ,fuel pressure regulater the crank shaft position senser no doubt were all excellent suggestions,but didnt solve the problem.the fuel punp puts out 43lbs at time of initial start up d rops to 35 while running.I dont know if thats sufficient .I'm frustrated and now the gas tank is out and I'm changing the pump.I'll be pissed if it still doesn't solve my problem
  • sandismomsandismom Member Posts: 1
    I also own a 1997 Buick Lesabre & have had very similar problems. I would be driving 35 mph and it would just cut off. when it first started doing this last year, after sitting for 5 minutes it would crank back up. It started happening more frequent and then wouldn't start back up. I had to call aaa to come tow me. 2 different mechanics could not find the problems. then the car would act like it wasn't getting gas & then would cut off. the steering wheel wouldn't turn for me.I eventually parked it, not knowing who to take it to. I got tired of donating money to mechanics. from what I hear on this discussion board it is a major problem with buicks. was there ever a recall on anything pertaining to this "problem"
  • bobbydingbobbyding Member Posts: 7
    Yep. My Buick would just die while driving and would typically restart within a few minutes. In my case it was the crank sensor. My mechanic did not find this issue, it was predicted here on this forum and I had to specifically request it be replaced. I don't remember how much it cost but it wasn't more than $200 (maybe around $150) for the time and parts. Of course it may or may not be what's wrong with yours, but it may be worth a try.

    Bobby
  • tndayotndayo Member Posts: 4
    It has been a month now and I still haven't found the solution. Neither has the autoshops. Shortly after my last post, the brakes went out so I had to get them replaced.. along with a new heater core because there was an anti-freeze leak in the dash. As for the stalling issue, it has still not been resolved yet. I gave the autoshop in the condition they wanted it: The point where it would just shut off whenever I turn it on, like, it starts up fine then a second later, cuts off. I had to push the car into the parking spot because I just wasn't able to drive it.

    The autoshop is doesn't know what to do. They put all their test equipment on the engine and everything checks out fine. They said something is causing the car to produce rich air, or something like that. Basically the car's air is too rich and causes it to stall. Note this only happens when the car is HOT. When it is cold, it runs just fine. They tried swapping out the CPU and the ignition module and that did not help. Frankly, they have no idea and its driving them nuts and its driving me nuts too.

    Has anyone had similar issues or have any suggestions? Would replacing the crank sensor work out?
  • ytdh314ytdh314 Member Posts: 1
    I've been down this same road, and it turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator, do some research on it and it might just be your issue too.
  • shergraham49shergraham49 Member Posts: 3
    I have had many of the same issues that seem to be floating in this forum with my car stalling. Since May, it has stalled more than I care to think so towing bills have been outrageous. It started while I was traveling at 30 mph on a major street. The car turned itself off while driving. It started and then stopped. The intake valves were replaced and other items under the hood but that did not help. It ran for several days and then started again. It ran for a week and stalled again while driving. Then it would not start. I have been to 2 mechanics and nothing shows up on the computer. Coils were changed. It started and ran without hesitation for several weeks. The CPU was checked. That is not the issue. I have taken notes on what others have said to see if we can find what is wrong. My engine light and gas tank lid light have stayed on for two years. I have replaced the gas tank caps from both generic and dealer and nothing works. This all began after Pep Boys changed my spark plugs in May 2010. Problems started in summer 2011. Could it be the key? The irony is that both times the car was towed, after it cooled down for over 4 hours, it started. I can't continue this hesitation as I travel and it causes me money to tow and the possibility of a major accident could occur.
  • tndayotndayo Member Posts: 4
    By any chance, did you get the crank sensor replaced? That seemed to be the problem with mine. Except my problem was that my car stalled when I was idle and not while driving. Whenever I stopped at a red light, the car would stall. I caused so much traffic that way, its quite embarrassing. Whenever I let it cool down for a couple of hours, it would run fine. It did stall on me when I was driving sometimes though. But anyways, after spending tons of money at the car repair shop. They figured out it was the crank sensor. After they replaced it, the car ran has been running fine and it has been a couple of weeks now. I hope I didn't jynx it. The crank sensor won't pick up on their testing equipment. They tested everything, even the CPU and for vacuum leaks. As for your engine light and gas tank lid, I'm not sure what those are. The whole time I was having issues with mine, no lights were on. Well good luck.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    The gas cap loose is probably a P0440 which means a leak in the tubing when the car tries to check for a leak by pulling a vacuum on the tank and watching how fast the air moves in to replace the lower pressure. It requires having someone trouble shoot the exact code and then checking the rubber parts of the vacuum tubing on the top of the engine to the purge valve. There are parts that crack as they harden with age. When Pepboys worked around the engine they may have wiggled the tubes and caused the cracks to leak. ONe part is a U-shaped turn on mine. I ended up putting a heat shrink tube around it to seal it.

    The leak can also be some other tubes such as the rubber tube from the carbon canister to the vent valve which closes so the vacuum can be drawn OR the vent valve itself may not be closing. That would set a different code.

    Not sure what the "intake valves" are that you mean. But I vote for the crankshaft position sensor. The test is to pour cool water over the sensor which is under the edge of the large pulley low on the engine with the belt around it. If that cools it quicker when your car shuts off, then the $40 part can be replaced by taking off that large pulley--maybe a maximum 1 hour job.

    The other could be the Igniton Control Module which is under the 3 coils. It has wires to the end of it. You might wiggle them to see if that improves contact, but they were very well held in place. The module might be getting hot and cutting out.

    The real test for the last two is to test a plug wire to see if you're getting spark while the car is cranked when it has just cut off. That requires having a spark plug wire you can pull of and lay on top of the metal to look for spark.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • shergraham49shergraham49 Member Posts: 3
    THanks for your email advice. This is one piece I saw on the forum that people recommended. I am talking to my mechanic today to see how we can get that done. Someone also suggested a new key but that is expensive. My car went through four different computers and everything tested well and working. I hate the fact that Buick does not see this as a major issue as it could cause an accident or death if it happens at a high speed. I will try that.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    I did forget to mention an ignition switch contact may be the problem. But those would often fail at random times or when a sharp bump affects the switch. Now I'm talking about the actual ignition switch with the electrical contacts and _not_ the key cylinder itself, unless those are the same on our 2000-5 cars. I haven't checked my factory service manual.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • kennmcgovkennmcgov Member Posts: 1
    where is the vat modual located on 92 la saber
  • shergraham49shergraham49 Member Posts: 3
    I am not sure if they are the same or not. I will check it out in my manual. Thanks. I talked to my mechanic and we have replaced some of the parts you suggested. The crankshaft sensor has not been replaced. It is the cheapest to try as the ignition switch is $125 to replace. I appreciate your help. I love my car but stalling is costing me money and time.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Does the Security light come on when you turn the key to ON?
    Does it start flashing for 3 minutes? If so, then you know the computer did not read the right resistance for the chip in the key when it's in the lock cylinder.

    Search for VATS (vehicle anti theft system) on the internet and how to bypass it. Use an ohmmeter and measure the resistance of the chip in your key. There are lists of the 15 possible resistances that GM used on the net. Get resistors at Radio Shack in pack to put in series to equal that resistance. Solder them together and then solder the ends onto the wires from the computer instead of the key in the lock.

    Be sure to cut the wires high up on the steering column to get extra lead to work with. You are looking for the yellow tube that looks solid until it goes to the connector group up on the firewall by the left foot and instead becomes two tiny white wires that go to the pins in the connector.

    Search for some articles and videos. Here's one.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQPBRD2T85Q

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • buick1999buick1999 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Buick Lesabre. I was having the same problem. We were told it was the security system. So we got a new steering column - still happened. Ended up fixing several small stupid things, and it was stillhappening. One day I was stuck, and just started messing with things. I turned the heat/vent on HIGH, started the car and BAM, it worked. The car will be fine for weeks, then do it constantly for a week. And the heater/vent trick works every time. Sometimes I have to do it 2, or 3 times - but it works. Not sure what it is, but whatever, it works! Good luck!
  • tndayotndayo Member Posts: 4
    I tried the same thing when my car was having the issue. Turning the heat on high helps the engines air flow in r something like that. It didn't work too well for me too though. I got the problem fixed though. Turned out to be the crank sensor. It only took them a grand later for them to figure it out -_-
  • buick1999buick1999 Member Posts: 2
    So here is another problem that has started, maybe you might know.. The car is chugging HARD, and will stall out of no where. Started the day after a coolant flush. Oh, and PS: I bought the car for 2k about 18 months ago - I've put about 1500 into it. Its ridiculous.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    >I bought the car for 2k about 18 months ago - I've put about 1500 into it. Its ridiculous.

    When you bought it, what did the mechanic say that you took it to for inspection before purchase? That inspection will tell you likely problems coming ahead for that model.

    A prepurchase inspection is really important. You can't trust the used car salesman or lot or curbstone seller to be honest about a vehicle's past and future.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • seltzergalseltzergal Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 Buick LeSabre (150,000 mi.) that has run very well for years. Never stalls. Til now. I was idling the other day and the car died out with black plumes of smoke coming out of the tailpipe. I can restart it, but within seconds the car dies out. The mechanic has tried fixing the problem by replacing the computer. He's tried three so far thinking the first two may be faulty. We tried different keys in the ignition. He's also tried several other "fixes". Now he's going to check the harness wiring. Are there any other things you might suggest? In case this may have any bearing on the problem I want to mention that we recently had a new starter put in. Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    If your mechanic is trying different keys as a remedy for black smoke out of the tailpipe, you need a different mechanic.

    And insisting that 2 replacement computers must both be bad when they don't fix a symptom is another problem.

    Time to move on to a different mechanic.

    Also, I'd look for leaking injectors along with the injectors commanded ON all the time to give too much fuel. That might lead back to the drivers in the computer, but I"m not seeing how the current fellow is coming up with computer as the problem.

    And I'd check the indicated temperature from the temperature sensor that the onboard computer uses. If it is telling the engine that the temp is COLD, the computer puts too much fuel in and you would be running rich. My scanner can tell me the temperature--your current or future mechanic should have one capable of that. The temperature gauge in the car may give a different reading from another sensor so the computer's temperature gauge needs to be checked.

    My places to start would be too look at the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel line that can leak fuel through its diaphragm and suck that leaked fuel into the intake manifold directly, richening the mixture.

    I'd also try starting it without the MAF sensor connected. If it runs then, the Mass Airflow Sensor might be bad.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • seltzergalseltzergal Member Posts: 3
    I am going to make sure that what you have suggested gets checked. Thanks so much for the time you took for such a detailed response. I really appreciate it.
  • buickjenbuickjen Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2013
    92 buick lesabre with 144k. Doesn't leak oil. The spark plugs are new. Its never happened while driving only when I park turn it off and come back out to start it. And its random but sometimes it will turn over but chug and the whole car shakes and it turns off. I wait 30 mins and itll start up and run fine.and i thought it had something to do with the key cause my chip on my key was worn down so I replaced it. Ran fine for a few days but now its doing it again. Any ideas? Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited September 2013
    Since you don't mention any running symptoms at any other time, I assume there are no other periods of rough running, stumbling, etc..

    My _guess_ would be crankshaft position sensor_. Usually people have the car stall on them and it won't restart for 10 or more minutes until the engine cools and the sensor is able to operate correctly.

    Watch the tachometer when it starts to stumble. The tach should go to zero because of the lost signal to the ignition system. Or it will swing wildly from 0 to 500 or more on the cycles where it's catching an electronic signal.

    The position sensor (CPS) is under the edge of the harmonic balancer. That is the lower pulley on the engine with the serpentine belt. It has a couple of wires and is about the size of a thumb under the edge of the harmonic balancer.

    Your sensor, I believe, has to be positioned using a gauge for the right air gap. Later ones just fit into a positioning hole.

    An anecdotal test is to pour cold water on the sensor which cools it down quicker. The magnetic effect returns and if will start the engine. You might carry a thermos of water with you on a trip or a large cup of ice water.

    See if you can locate the CPS on the back side lower of the lowest pulley. Engine off, of course... :)

    Could also be the ISC, ignition spark control, under the 3 coils on the front of the engine top. You could also try cooling it with water; water over the coils and the metal unit under them will not hurt anything.

    Good luck.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • travis236travis236 Member Posts: 2
    edited May 2014

    Hi i have a 92 buick lesabre custom 3.8 first of all when starting i have to give it gas to keep it running but only usally for 15-30 secs then its fine also when driving at 55+ it will randomly stutter only a few times and its completely random and usally goes away but check engine light doesnt usally come on while it does this. but i do have a randomly occuring check engine light any idea what this could be? and now it sometimes doesnt want to stay running but starts every time no problem just as soon as i let go of the gas it stalls out until i get it just right or something and it stays running after letting go of gas pedal. just recently replaced plugs and wires and fuel filter ** figured out to make seprate discusing not sure how to delete**

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