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Lincoln LS Brakes

heyjewelheyjewel Posts: 1,046
edited August 2014 in Lincoln
I need to replace the brakes on my LS. Going to do it myself. I've read about a special tool that is necessary when working with the calipers on the LS. Does anyone have info on what this tool is?? Where I might get it?? Thanks
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Comments

  • Any suggestions on how to fix a strange noise in the brake pedal assembly of 03 V8? When the pedal is depressed with the engine warm and on a warm day, it sounds like old rubber creaking -- not a squeak. It naturally goes away on the dealer's lot and makes no noise when engine is cold.
  • lamarlamar Posts: 9
    My 02 V8 does the same thing. I haven't found out why.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    The universal version will work but not nearly as well as a dedicated Ford version from NAPA. It's a bit more expensive but probably worth it.
  • cwzcwz Posts: 72
    Only need it for the back brakes. I got mine at Napa. It is a square box (2"x2")looking thing with two tabs in various positions on each square to be universal for different makes and models brake calipers
  • heyjewelheyjewel Posts: 1,046
    Thanks.
  • notnutznotnutz Posts: 2
    My dash light indictaed right tail lamp out- I changed the bulb and there is no power to the socket. Before I leave it at an electrical shop I would like to see if anyone had a similar problem?
  • aiutoaiuto Posts: 46
    I would check to see that all connnections are good. Try another bulb.

    Also post this to the other LS bulletin board. More people look there. Good luck.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 5,014
    Oh, but when you post to that "other" bulletin board, bring money and no bad attitude.

    There is nothing free there, and much besides.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • I am not sure if you are still having this issue, but I have an 02 V8, had it at the dealerships and documented 4 times about the brake pedal crunching noise and every service advisor told me that it was how the car was made and I argued time and time again that I couldn't see how a nearly 50k car that was suppose to be luxury made this noise and there was no fix. About a month ago, I went in for my oil change and a very old friend of mine is now a tech at the dealership and pulled me aside and told me that they have since discovered that changing out the master cylinder & the brake booster fix the problem. I was able to get it covered under my extended warranty, I had to pay the $100 deductible which sucked b/c it had been documented for a very long time, but since having it replaced, the noise is gone. I am now having problems w/my brakes squealing and this is the 2nd set of pads they have put on in 3 wks. I hope that info helps.
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    Try a few (2-3) heavy stops from highway speed. Good chance squeal will go away.
  • crankkycrankky Posts: 45
    I was browsing all of the message boards for an answer to my problem and found your message. I have a 2001 Ford Windstar which, while certainly not a Lincoln, is at least part of the Ford family.

    We've had 4 brake boosters put on and the problem that was originally described (rubbery creaking sound) persists.

    Is that the problem that you had on your car? How did you convince them to change the master cylinder? I also have the Ford extended warranty, but the dealer insists that it's bad brake boosters (even after 4 new ones) and that the master cylinder is fine.
  • I have a 2003 LS and the power brake pedal sounds like squeaky rubber every time it is depressed. I have sprayed it with silicone spray, WD-40, etc. and it still squeaks. I have taken the rubber bellows from around the shaft and saturated the shaft itself with silicone spray, nothing seems to work. The sound is inside the car, not under the hood.
    Someone please help.
    Thanks, Shag2
  • Thanks a bunch.I believe that probably would fix the problem because I have lubricated every thing down there that I can reach. My warranty just ran out so this is going to be a battle royal to try to get it covered due to past complaints. Thanks for the response.
    I am in Charleston,SC by the way.
  • Can someone help me?
    I've had my 00 v6 for 3 yrs and every once in a while I attempt to fix the brake squeaking I've changed pads, rotors, etc. and no luck! Does anyone know the solution I would appreciate any help or advice.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    Try using an anti-squeal compound on the back of the pads where the caliper piston hits it. And every once in a while you should do 2 or 3 hard stops. You could also try a different brand of pad. Porterfield R4S street pads work great and produce much less dust than the stock pads.
  • 02linc02linc Posts: 11
    I have a 02 lincoln LS V8. I absolutely love this car but im a little scared of the problems its going to give me. :P Once in a while the engine will overheat and it makes a loud turbine noise and then will eventually cool back down to normal temp. Why is this? And also i have taken my car in 5 times because the front left brake is making a rattling noise when i go over bumps but it wont rattle if i have the brake on? :confuse: PLEASE help!! it is much appritiated!
  • 02linc02linc Posts: 11
    I have an 02 Lincoln LS V8 that i absolutly love but im alittle scared of what problems its going to give me. I have been taking it into a mechanic to figure out what is making a rattling noise on the front left brake. They think it is the caliper and they said it could cost up to $300 bucks..Any suggestions? It also over heats once in awhile and make a loud turbine type noise and will eventually slowly cool down to normal temp. Why is this and can i do anything to make it stop overheating??
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    Sounds like a bad thermostat which is the first thing to replace since it's the least expensive. After that you're looking at the cooling fan.

    Not sure about the brake noise but I'd replace the pads first and make sure all the clips are in place on the new ones - and check all the components for anything that's loose. The front sway bar bushings are prone to wear out but that's more of a clunk than a rattle.
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Posts: 793
    Actually, from my experience it is the fan. My fan was doing that for about a year before it finally gave out. Then it needed the fan motor and hydraulic pump! I didn't know it was the fan until my favorite, straight-shooting dealer told me that was one of the symptoms.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    I was afraid of that but was trying to be optimistic that it might be the much less expensive thermostat.
  • 02linc02linc Posts: 11
    well both are useful information..thanks bunches!! But lucky me,now my airbag warning light is constantly on :mad: any suggestions for that or should i just take it to the dealer??
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    It's the wiring harness under the seat. There is supposedly a TSB for it but I don't have the text.
  • 02linc02linc Posts: 11
    mk. is there anything i can do to fix it or should i just take it to the dealer?
  • 02linc02linc Posts: 11
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    You might be able to replace the harness but I'd at least let the dealer diagnose it. Airbags can be tricky and dangerous.
  • i recently went to replace a my lower ball joint and found out that i had to replace the searing knuckle also but to do this i had to remove the hub assembly wich is very stuck in the old part so i opted to buy a new one (this is where the problem comes in) ive purchesed a new one and it would not communicate with the car and gave me a abs light on plus the brake light and also the traction control so ij thought it was a bad part so i took it out and got a new one same problem so i went top the dealer and got a part from them thinking it would solve my troubles but ive got the same problem. the funny thing is that when i put the old part back in the car it works just fine am i missing some thing is there some thing that i need to do so that the car will see the new part?
    any help will be greatly accepted imn at my wits end
  • rebel90rebel90 Posts: 8
    I changed the rear break pads on my 02 ls last night and now I have to push the peddle all the way to the floor to get them to work. What exactly needs to be done?
  • rebel90rebel90 Posts: 8
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    You need to bleed the entire BRAKE system to get the air out, then your BRAKE PEDAL will work again.
  • It's been about a year since my last brake service, maybe more. I'm hearing some squealing and am hoping it's just the pads need replacing but when I took a look at the rotors, they look a bit rusted.

    Assuming the rotors just need to be resurfaced, how much do you guys think I'll be paying for an inspection and brake pad replacement? How about pads and new rotors?
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    Are you a "do-it yourselfer"? If so, I wouldn't bother with resurfacing the rotors. Good replacement rotors can be purchased at reasonable cost, and that would also minimize your "down time".
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    Absolutely - it's easier and cheaper to replace the rotors. Also turning the rotors removes mass making them more likely to warp. I wouldn't go with cross drilled though - plain or slotted only. Cross drilled rotors can crack if not done properly and you won't get any benefit on the street.
  • Nope, I'm in school for an automotive program at the moment so I'm just getting my feet wet.

    How much do you guys think would be the price to have it done at the Lincoln dealership?
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    Keystone, if you're in an automotive school program, personally I think it would be a good time for a little "hands-on" experience. As long as you don't have to open the hydraulic system, you won't have to bleed anything, so it's strictly a hand tool job.

    Going to a dealer potentially will be expensive. Most dealerships charge at least $60/hr. for labor, as well as charging FULL LIST for parts. So, for instance, if you indeed need new rotors, you'll probably pay over $100 each, I would imagine, and pads would also be marked up accordingly.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    Aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors were cheaper than the plain jane OEM replacements. You should be able to get good rotors for $75 and about the same for pads.

    All you have to do is remove the wheel, remove the caliper (2 bolts IIRC) and hang it off to the side with wire (don't let it hang by the brake hose), then remove the caliper support. This is the only tricky part - it's 2 bolts but they're big and can be hard to break loose initially. Use a long ratchet with an extension handle or pipe to get leverage. Pull off the rotor and put on the new one and reverse the procedure. Piece of cake.
  • dejecldejecl Posts: 1
    I'm thinking about changing the breaks on my 02 LS. I recently changed the breaks on a 02 Honda Accord and it was fairly simple. Is there anything special I need to know regarding changing the breaks on a LS?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    First you need to start spelling "brakes" correctly. That said, you'll need a special tool for the rear brake caliper piston - because of the parking brake mechanism you must turn the piston while compressing it. Get the dedicated Ford tool from NAPA - works much better than the multi-function generic tool at Autozone. And make sure the vehicle is running when you bleed the brake lines - otherwise the ABS valves won't fully open.
  • Hello, I am changing pads and rotors on a 2003 LS and have a few questions. I've done brake jobs since the late 60's but not on an ABS vehicle. I have the tool required to retract the rear caliper pistons on this vehicle.
    When I push in the pistons on the calipers is there any special procedure as a result of ABS. i.e, idle the vehicle, etc.
    Any special procedures as a result of the rear Electronic Parking Brake.
    Also do you know of a good maintenance/repair manual for this vehicle? I couldn't find anything in the Chilton/Haynes line and the Helm is high priced at $140.
    Thanks for your help.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    Only real change is to have the engine running when you bleed the brake lines to make sure the valves are fully open. Best to use the 2 person method with one pumping the brakes or get the speed bleeder valves. I never had much success with the vacuum bleeders. Other than that the procedure is the same.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    Allen, are you sure that you need the engine running? I've done mine with just the ignition in the "ON" position.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    No, I'm not sure. On might work, too.
  • jandpvmjandpvm Posts: 2
    i'm a very good dyi and my wives lincoln needs new front brakes. i have not done a brake job in 10 years. do you just pull off the caliper and depress the pistons replace bleed and go?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    For the fronts - yes. For the rear brakes you need a tool to turn the piston as you depress them due to the parking brake mechanism (use the NAPA tool). Make sure you have the car running when you bleed the brakes to activate the ABS/advancetrac solenoids.
  • jandpvmjandpvm Posts: 2
    right now i just need to do the front. do i need to have the car running with just the front pads?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    To bleed the brakes - probably. You could try it either way I suppose. Just FYI - I tried using a vacuum bleeder to pull the fluid out through the caliper and that did not work very well. Personally I'd get some speed bleeders, crank the car and use the pedal. That way you know it's going through the entire ABS system.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,019
    You probably shouldn't need to bleed them if you aren't disconnecting any brake lines.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • aannettetaaannetteta Posts: 1
    My service ((p)) light has illuminated on my 04 lincoln ls. At first it would come on after I drove for a couple of miles. Now it comes on right away. What could possibly be the problem. In my last post I had mentioned that both rear brakes and rotors have been replaced and I have reset the car.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    Which light???
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,019
    My service parking brake light was coming on. Someone on another forum said a discharged battery might cause this. I disconnected the battery, charged it, and reconnected it. The light hasn't come on since. I'm not sure if it was the low battery, or disconnecting the battery reset it, but problem solved.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
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