Lincoln LS Starting/Stalling



  • jeajosuejeajeajosuejea Member Posts: 2
    whats up guys
    i bought a Lincoln LS 01 with 41,000 miles
    after a week of having it it started messing up
    i was driving down the street at night then all of a sudden my stereo turned off and i wasnt able to turn it back on.
    Then all the lights on the car turned off and the gages went down to zero and didnt tell me how fast i was going
    it just stayed at zero
    i got to a gas station and turned of the car and when i tryed to turn it back on it wouldnt
    so i bought a new battery for it and it worked but after a day it did the same thing
    so we changed the alternater
    and it worked but then it did it again
    any idea whats going on?
  • jeajosuejeajeajosuejea Member Posts: 2
    did you ever get it fixed?
    cause i have the excat same problem
    we bought a new battery and changed the altinater
    and yet it seems to do the same
  • deanna7deanna7 Member Posts: 2
    I have a lincoln ls 02 and hav had many problems that ford dealerships cant fix or any other car places that are well known. It hesitates to start randomly, misses as if it has cut off for a split second in the cold weather, there is a knocking in the front end but when I hit my breaks it stops. Now my check engine light is on along with the airbag light and it studders when I hit inbetween 45 and 60mph. I have it at yet another ford dealership with another $700+ bill and the rest is yet to be told. I hope they fix it this time. It seems if the diagnostic machine they put these cars on doesnt say whats wrong then these new technicians can't figure out the real problem. I will post if the issues have been resolved and what was done when I get the car back Friday or Saturday. Until then I can only hope someone knows what they are doing or the car is just crap :confuse:
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    The diagnostic tests only give the symptoms - it's up to the mechanic to diagnose and fix the problem. Sounds like your mechanic isn't that great. Maybe taking it to a Ford dealer is part of the problem - this car is very different than other Fords because it shares a platform and engines with the Jag S-type. You might want to try a Lincoln dealer.

    If it's a V6 change the pcv valve. It's most likely the COPs - coil on plug. Have they replaced all of them yet?
  • deanna7deanna7 Member Posts: 2
    I have brought the car to many different dealerships, so as far as a crappy mechanic, they must all have had them. I have been to 3 different Ford dealerships and 3 other car shops. Goodyear, firestone, and ammaco. They all specify in different issues so I was just trying everything.
    Isnt the Lincoln a Ford? Thats why I have been bringing it to the Ford dealerships. And the dealerships I have brought this car to have been in 3 different states. Mississippi, Lousiana, and now Wisconsin. Somewhere along the line someone has to have had a different type of training or certification to help me with this car. But I will deffinetly look into a Lincoln Dealer if its not fixed this time. Oh, and I have had all 8 coil packs replaced during a tune up, is that what your asking about (COPs). its a v8
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    That engine was only used in the LS and Tbird and the Tbird numbers were low, so there's a good chance that Ford mechanics simply haven't seen a lot of them. Lincoln sold considerably more LSes over a longer period. Yes, they should be able to fix it.

    It's possible you have one of those strange problems like a frayed wire or bad PCM. Have they checked the fuel pumps and fuel filter?
  • bworthybworthy Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000LS V8 and sometimes when I start the car, it will act like it is being stolen, it will start and then kill and the alarm will go off. It will eventually start after awhile. I have the original battery in it (8yrs) could that be it? I am scare to drive it scare that it might not start. I'm in Texas. The only other problem I have with the car is the heater goes on when the a/c is on and I have had to replace all of the coils/plugs at a great expense, other than that I love the car and the style. Help me now I need to Xmas shop!!!!
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    8 years? Change that battery!
  • Bear205Bear205 Member Posts: 1
    I hope i can find answers here too. I have a 2000 LS v8 and i was driving and all of a sudden i couldn't give it any gas while i was diving. the gas pedal went limp. i shut the car off because i thought the Transmission was acting up but i couldn't crank the car up. it would start but would not turn over. I was told it was a fuel problem so i replace the fuel filter because it was blocked but the car still won't turn over, any more suggestions?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Fuel pump would be my guess.
  • Gabe58Gabe58 Member Posts: 1
    Were you able to resolve this problem? I have a 2001 LS that now won't start and am experiencing similar issues to you. It started first with the check engine light always being on. I had the engine rebuilt (thankfully under warranty) but now the engione wants to turn over and starts for a few seconds but then the car dies. People think it can be the security system, another a weak battery not holding a charge. Like you I've had the original battery since 2000
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    If it starts and runs for a few seconds it's not the battery or the security system. That sounds like a fuel problem (filter or pump).
  • bworthybworthy Member Posts: 2
    I bought a new battery and the car has not done it again since. A battery that last 8 years the guy said was unheard of. I guess Ford did put good batteries in our cars ! I love my car and will keep it until........
  • elars34elars34 Member Posts: 2
    What are the symptoms of a bad MAF sensor?
  • murphy35murphy35 Member Posts: 2
    I have a similar problem with my 2003 Lincoln LS V8. It seems that once in a while it won't start. It usually occurs when the outside temperature is above 90 degrees. I can stop at the local store, run in for a soda or whatever, come out and it won't turn over. No click, nothing. Radio works, gauges work, fan blows air, etc. If I let it sit for awhile (5-10 minutes usually) it will start. Yesterday, it sat for ~ 3 hours and still wouldn't start (but it was 104 degrees). Finally started.

    I have taken it to the Ford dealer, but when I get there, it works fine. It's really hit or miss. Hopefully this week, I can make it happen again. Determined to take it in every day until it won't start so they can diagnose it...
    Any other ideas? Thanks. :confuse:
  • ben96ben96 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2004 lincoln ls v6. it has started stailing all the time the rpms dip then jump and shuts off. the dealer cant figure it out its throwing no codes and the dealer is just throwing parts at it can anyone help
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Just a guess, fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator?
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • murphy35murphy35 Member Posts: 2
    Really an odd fix, but makes sense. When I was finally able to re-create the problem at the local Ford dealership, the error code was something like "Theft Deterrant System activated". Turned out to be the chip in the key. When the key got hot, it caused the chip to malfunction. Car didn't recognize key, and wouldn't allow it to start... Whoda thunk it...................
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Sometimes,you gotta take it to the dealer...... :sick:
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Just make sure you get a vented battery since it's in the trunk. It's best just to get a replacement from a dealer if they have them. IIRC the cost was comparable to any other name brand battery and you know it fits. Considering you got 8 years out of the first one (you sure somebody didn't break into your trunk and put in a new battery 2 or 3 times?) I'd stick with motorcraft.

    Don't remember if you lose the radio presets but if you do it yourself have the keyfob handy. Removing and reconnecting battery power tends to set off the alarm system (to deter a thief from cutting power to disarm the anti-theft system and then reconnecting power to drive it away).

    I started to say it would also lose the transmission shift pressures but since in your case those are in your head and left foot I guess they won't be lost (at least not for a few more years - hopefully!). :sick:
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    I think you can use an Odyssey battery on these. Sealed, so no vent. I dont think they are any cheaper than what you are seeing, though. My friend that has a Miata with a trunk-mounted battery swears they last longer because they're not exposed to the heat of the engine.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    $109? Yikes. Last price I heard was around $60 but that was probably a year ago at least and I don't remember where. I guess those aren't much in demand any more.

    Yep - still have my fusion. Bought the wife an Edge last year to replace the piece of crap Aviator and it's been great. That plus a kid in college and another one about to get her permit means I'll probably be driving it for awhile.....
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Tell your friend to save $6K and get the Edge. The interior is better and the only thing you're really giving up is the cooled front seats.
  • dliandlian Member Posts: 3
    I have the same issue, but it usually takes three times to get it start eventually!!!!!
  • lswasfreelswasfree Member Posts: 1
    just bought 2000 lincoln ls v8 from my aunt, its been on her drive way for 6 years. it has 21k miles on it almost new. but ive the change coolent,oil,battery and luckly gas tank was emty so i put 91 oct gas, check all fuses and cranked it, basically motor turns over but didnt fire up... what do you guys think i should check next??
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Check the fuel pump cutoff switch just to be safe. You could have water or varnish in the fuel tank unless it was actually run dry. The fuel pump may not be working properly. Check fuel pressure with a gauged on the fuel rail near the front of the engine.
  • dliandlian Member Posts: 3
    It usually takes three times for my 01 V8 to start. A heavy gas smell appears every time during and after starting. Can it be the starter issue or else?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Could be a leaky fuel injector.
  • dliandlian Member Posts: 3
    Then I should just take it to a dealer?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Any mechanic should be able to fix a leaky injector - or at least verify that's the problem.
  • ramble12ramble12 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 LS. Several times now there will be no power when trying to start it. No lights, no dash, no nothing. I wait 1-5 minutes and then it is fine, although sometimes, not always, the clock has to be reset and the trip odometers are back to zero. Yesterday it never did get power back and is still sitting in the garage with no power. The battery is fine. It starts my Explorer. All connections appear to be fine. Any thoughts before I open up my wallet at the dealership?
  • ajm751ajm751 Member Posts: 1
    So I have had this 2002 Lincoln LS for 5 years and since about 2 months after I bought is with 35,000 miles, I have been experiencing a delayed start. I have spent more money than this car is worth trying to fix the problem and still to no avail. I feel as though I have been down every road and still have yet to figure out the problem.
    About 1 year into owning the vehicle after experiencing the delayed start or crank issue, I was driving an the check engine light came on it almost immediately started blinking so I brought the car in. At that point the repairs really began... New spark plugs and wires and still a delayed start. ( There was raw fuel everywhere)Since then I have had many things replaced. I have had everything I have read in this forum fixed on this vehicle and it still does not start or run correctly. The battery issue can happen due to an old battery or not connecting jumper cables the right way. If you ground the negative to the battery and not the pin inside the spare tire it blows a chip (perhaps fuse) that starts to make the electrical seem off( i.e., radio control not working, no AC heat coming out of 1 vent and the check charging system light to appear. This chip or piece is about $150 and will resolve that issue without a new alternator... which I had already replaced trying to fix this problem.

    Now back to the delayed start, I have had 5 new sets of plugs, 2 new plug wire replacements, 2 new fuel injecters (2 and 8), a new fuel pump, a new fuel pressure sensor and fuel system flush twice, a transmission fluid flush, 2 new starters and a new alternator and all to no avail. The problem seems to be getting worse as now the car is stalling when I come to a stop after just spending another $800 trying to fix it.

    My next step is to have a Ford tech to my mechanics shop ( my 5th mechanic). If they cannot diagnose the problem there is no charge but if they can the charge is somewhere on the neighborhood of $150 per hour to figure it out. My money is on no luck sad to say but gosh is this perplexing or what?. If anyone has any input or suggestions I would love to hear them!
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    You need to get a good mechanic and stop throwing money at the problem. Take it to a Lincoln dealer who understands the vehicle.

    Did you replace the COPs (coil on plug)? There are 2 fuel pumps - did you replace both?
  • niki2niki2 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2001 Lincoln LS V6. When I put key into ignition, the car won't start and the alarm will sound. I hit the unlock to cancel alarm. After car sits for a few hours, I try again and car starts. This happens randumly. It happened about 6 or 7 months ago and then lately it seems to be happening more frequently. Any idea of why this is happening?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Try replacing the battery and check the battery connections.
  • frayeddecayedfrayeddecayed Member Posts: 1
    A few days ago i had some bad luck with my car, it started dieing out every time i would shift. When you start the car, it runs fine in park or neutral, but ,R,d5,d4,3,2,1 All make the car stall out , There is no time to to hit the gas it dies so fast. I recharged the battery and still having the same problem. No money for a mechanic , on my own for this one and any help is greatly appreciated .
    Also when i start the car sometimes, I smell a light gas smell?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    If you can rev it up in park and it runs fine but dies when you put it in gear, that sounds like a transmission problem - specifically the torque converter. The gas smell could be the evap cannister or a leaky fuel injector.
  • kgrzeleckikgrzelecki Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 LS and I took the CD player out to remove the jammed CD's hoping it would work afterwards. Well to make a long story short I had to disconnect the radio, climate control, and top vents. I put everything back together correctly (the plugs only fit in one way for all 3 components). After putting everything back together the next day I had problems starting my car. I had the battery checked out and it was good, had a bad negative battery connector and replaced it. This car is still giving me problems. When I start the car the mph and rpm gauges go all the way up (maxed out) for a second and then back down. Sometime the car starts great other days it takes like 8 times to start it and every time I try the alarm goes off. I had this similar situation happen with my 2005 ls when I installed my xm radio. I remember searching the internet for hrs to find out how to fix it. I found the solution back then and it worked and it was simple but now I have no clue what I did back then and of coarse I cant find the solution anywhere.

  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    I'm guessing bad battery ground to the car. I don't remember the specifics but that should help you find it. I think the solution was a strap of some kind.
  • kgrzeleckikgrzelecki Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info but I replaced my negative clamp that hooks to my battery post due to it being cracked. These problems didn't start until I took the radio out and then put it back in again. I thought it was the ground also that's why I replaced the clamp. Any other thoughts on this?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    I thought there was another strap that Ford added later somewhere in the trunk.
  • vaylkarievaylkarie Member Posts: 1
    sounds like a fuel pump relay with the delayed starting/ hard to start....
  • carlessinphxcarlessinphx Member Posts: 3
    The symptoms: The car sat for six months. I connected the battery. It would turn over but not start. I sprayed some starting fluid and it started. Occasionally, I would have to use starting fluid to start it. I thought it was old fuel working its way through. Now, It won't start. The fluid starts it for two seconds and then dead. I noticed the battery is low, so I charged it. Same thing with the starting fluid. Two seconds and dead.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well after 6 months you probably have rotten gas, but I can't say for sure. You might check for fuel flow from the fuel pump by either disconnecting a line or by installing a fuel pressure gauge.

    If you do have fuel flow but won't start without starting fluid, then either it is indeed rotten gas or your fuel injectors are not getting a pulse. In that case, you'll need to buy an inexpensive "NOID" light and test for fuel injector pulse from the car's computer system.
  • carlessinphxcarlessinphx Member Posts: 3
    edited October 2012
    I fixed it. It was the primary fuel pump. I started with the filter, but no gas was going to the filter. And I couldn't hear the sweet hum of the pump.
    Ford/Jaguar was nice enough, in this case, to locate access under the passenger's side rear seat. It comes up. Look for two tabs under the front crease. Slide them and the seat comes up. Slide the backseat to the side. Lift up the vinyl and you will see a 6 inch rubber Tab. Remove that and there is the top of the fuel pump case. Before you proceed, go to Auto Zone and buy the new fuel pump. It will have instruction on how to swap it out. Good luck with those fuel line connectors. They are a beoch. Also, I used a hammer and a 3/4" piece of pvc pipe to remove the ring at the top. If you have a better idea, please post.
    Buy the pump at Auto Zone, because it includes the two sump filters. O'Reily wants to charge you extra for them.
    Some articles say there are two fuel filters in the LS. Actually there are three. Two in the tank and one behind the driver's side tire.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd get rid of that gas, or at least swap out the fuel filter pronto and add fresh fuel immediately.
  • carlessinphxcarlessinphx Member Posts: 3
    I drove the car all night. It's like its new. No more missing. No more engine light. Everyone should swap out their old fuel pump, just for fun.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah, the proactive stance!

    But change the filter, just for laughs.
  • markls8markls8 Member Posts: 42
    Hi All!
    I've been away for a while, but happy to see some of the original members from the beginning still here.

    2000 Lincoln LS V8 Sport, 100,000mi, Feb 2000 build date, had since new. I still love this car!

    Searched the forums and couldn't find the following exact symptoms. 2 years ago had a no start event. Starter turns fine, but engine doesn't fire. After 6-8 tries, it fired and started. No gas smell, seemed like it just wasn't getting fuel. Then it runs perfectly, like nothing happened. Good power even at full throttle acceleration.

    Happened a second time about 2 months ago. Then 3 weeks ago. Then 2 weeks ago the battery ran low before it would start. Missed a dentist's appointment that time, it started 30 minutes later. Tried the following to no avail… gas pedal floored; gas pedal jazzed; lock and unlock doors a few times with fob; disconnect and reconnect battery; turn key slowly; turn key fast, start in neutral and park, then it just starts when it feels like it. Connectors on fuel pump under Px rear seat are clean and not corroded. Always happens on a cold start, not when engine is warm.

    No fault codes in the OBD - had a smog test a few weeks ago and they said it was all good.

    Replaced fuel pump relay in trunk with similar fog light relay under hood, but it still did the no start thing, so it's not that. I can't be sure because of other noises, but it seems like the fuel pump doesn't run for the second or two like it should when the key is turned, when I have the problem. I'll peel the seat back so I can hear more clearly next time. I'm suspecting the fuel pump, but I'm bothered by the fact that it runs perfectly at all other times - it's like intermittently the pump isn't getting the signal to turn on. Has anybody out there seen a fuel pump failure in this manner? Any other suggestions? Because it's intermittent, and the dealer is 30 mins away, it's iffy that the problem will happen at the dealer's. I don't want to replace the fuel pump and still have the problem, either.

    I might wire a voltmeter in parallel with the fuel pump to confirm it's getting voltage when the problem happens. Comments or your experiences appreciated.

    Thanks - markls8.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,411
    One of the numerous things I had to replace on my '00 LS (sold a year ago with 128K miles on it) was the fuel pump. That's what it sounds like to me.

    Good luck.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
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