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Chevy Express/GMC Savana: Brakes

jcintcjcintc Posts: 3
I have a 2001 Chevy Express
The brake lights LT, center, RT will work fine until I turn the parking lights on & then when you apply the brakes the LT & RT go out & only the center will light up as a brake light. As soon as you release the brake pedal the center goes out & the LT & RT will light up as parking lights. If you or anybody has an answer please reply.
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Comments

  • sparky55sparky55 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I drive a 1997 GMC Savana 1 ton van. The two outside rear brake lights don't work, but the upper center bar brake light does. I've checked the fuses and the lamps and they are OK. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? Thanks in advance for your replies.
  • Hi
    I have an Express and I encontered the same question.
    It might be the same answer, I took a look into the lamp socket and found that there where no contacts for the braklight!!!
    This means I have two taillights on each side and just one brakelight on each side.
    BRGS Stein
  • jcintcjcintc Posts: 3
    sparky55,
    Did you find an answer to your problem?
    I have a 2001 Chevy Express & am having a simular problem.
    The brake lights LT, center, RT will work fine until I turn the parking lights on & then when you apply the brakes the LT & RT go out & only the center will light up as a brake light. As soon as you release the brake pedal the center goes out & the LT & RT will light up as parking lights. If you or anybody has an answer please reply.
  • n70121n70121 Posts: 2
    I've got the same problem on my '99 Express. I haven't found the cause of the problem either, so I would also appreciate any information anybody can offer.
  • n70121n70121 Posts: 2
    I found the solution! The problem was that with the lights on, applying the brakes would cause the lower lamps to go out and only the center light would come on. With the lights off, I would only get the parking lights and the center light. The solution was to replace both of the lower lamp sockets.
  • vaturbovaturbo Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me were the fuel pump is located on a 2000 chevy express van V6?, Thanks.
  • It's in the fuel tank
  • Hi! Thanks for your post. It looks like I am having the same problem with my 99 Express. Did you find out what was wrong with the lower sockets? I had my tail lights apart last night and could not figure out what was wrong. Then I did a search and found this forum. Did you notice any differences between the upper and lower sockets? Thanks!
  • exnerexner Posts: 2
    Thank you for posting this! It was the fix for my brake light problem as well. I found my replacement sockets at NAPA, part # LS6505, but I was a little shocked at the price for them, $30 each!! And they are the same exact part. I couldn't find a suitable replacement at any of the other auto parts stores, I'm sure the dealership has them, but they are probably even more expensive. I just hope they don't start doing they same thing as the old ones!

    My van is a 2001 3500 with the 5.7. It's got 121,000 on it right now. It is leaking coolant on the right side of the block. Looks like the head gasket, but it could be an intake gasket (hopefully).

    Has anyone had this problem?
  • I had this problem on both my99's. The Express was leaking externally, the Suburban had water in the oil. Both needed to have the intake gaskets replaced. Factory originals turned to dust-
  • I had this exact problem. Both lower tail light sock (R&L) had slight corrosion that caused the ground to no longer make contact. I replaced both sockets and it all works now. I replaced the sockets by buying a tail light wiring harness from a GM dealer and using the two sockets on the wiring harness, one for each side. I just clipped the wires, attached the new sockets, taped it all back up, and was done. To replace the complete wiring harness requires taking inside panels off, etc. Too much work. Just replacing the lower tail light sockets is all that was necessary and splicing them into the existin wiring harness worked fine. A wiring harnes cost around $70 from the dealer, so save yourself &70 and just buy one of them.

    It looks like the GMC vans must have a problem with water getting into the lower socket since there a number of people posting with the same problem.
  • I had this exact problem. Both lower tail light sock (R&L) had slight corrosion that caused the ground to no longer make contact. I replaced both sockets and it all works now. I replaced the sockets by buying a tail light wiring harness from a GM dealer and using the two sockets on the wiring harness, one for each side. I just clipped the wires, attached the new sockets, taped it all back up, and was done. To replace the complete wiring harness requires taking inside panels off, etc. Too much work. Just replacing the lower tail light sockets is all that was necessary and splicing them into the existin wiring harness worked fine. A wiring harnes cost around $70 from the dealer, so save yourself &70 and just buy one of them.

    It looks like the GMC vans must have a problem with water getting into the lower socket since there a number of people posting with the same problem.
  • jetman1jetman1 Posts: 1
    My 1999 gmc savana cargo van had the same brake light problem. What I did instead of splicing in new light sockets was release the contact terminal inside the socket itself, due this by using a pick type tool or small screw driver etc. and guide it down the terminal until it pushes and releases then i took some small stranded wire and wrapped it around the terminal and pushed it back into the socket. the wire stuffed in there puts more pressure and gives more contact area.
    Hope this reply can help out and i hope i'm being accurate enough as it has been two years since i did the repair. It is still working perfectly today.
    I notice these vans every day on the road with brake light problems. Don't know if it's moisture related or under rated/inferior materials
  • vinnyb3vinnyb3 Posts: 1
    I am experiencing braking problems. During slow driving conditions only, i.e. heavy traffic, excessive braking, the ABS and Emergency brake indicator light is coming on with an error beep./signal. This is causing brake failure for brief periods of time, bunny-hop, etc. and on two separate occasions, potential pedestrian and vehicle accidents. I have had the van at the dealer on two separate occasions and they cannot find anything wrong with the vehicle. Has anyone else experienced this? Please assist.
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    Hi, vinnyb3,

    You can try asking in the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes discussion if you don't get an answer here. Hope you get this resolved soon :-)

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  • I've got a 2001, 3500 Chev. Express and I decided to change the brake shoes on the rear dually axle. Question: Is the hub and drum make together on this big truck? I've been reading the shop manual, but I swear they are working on a different truck, perhaps the 1500 or 2500, where the hub and axle are clearly separate. I've already pulled the axle on one side, but it looks like I will have to take off the "axle nut retaining ring" and "adjusting nut" and "key" and finally the "wheel hub" WITH the big drum.
    This doesn't seem right--the bearings will be falling out just to change the rear brake shoes. I guess I could take a digital picture of the situation and ask at a brake shop, but I thought a would try this forum. Maybe there is a forum out there for mechanical questions. If someone knows of one let me know--I've got a lot more work to do on this truck.
  • After some investigation today, I can answer my own question: The dually hub and drum are one item. The axle nut must be taken off then the whole assembly comes off as a unit, bearings and all. I did have to buy a special socket for the axle nut though, #OTC 1929, for $38.
  • I have a 2000 Chevy Express 3500 Custom Van that the ABS Control Module or the ELECTRONIC BRAKE CONTROL MODULE or the ECBM depending on who I talk to is bad. I have had the codes pulled from two people and they both said it is bad. What goes wrong is it will not shut off when I turn off the vehicle. And over the course of the night, drains the battery. As a wheelchair bound former Marine, this is a pita..and since I am on a budget that a 1200.oo dealer repair bill blows clean out of the water I was looking for some advice.

    1st off does anyone know where it is located at?

    Maybe a Chevrolet Part number I can cross referance OEM versions

    And thoughts of obtaining one from a Salvage yard...it there a way to test one from a salvage yard with a meter if I talk my meter with me?

    Thx for any help.

    Respectfully,

    Auto Marine on Wheels :)
  • I have a 2001 Express also
    Having the same problem, confirmed myself that the socket are bad, the actual problem with the sockets are the way "they" attach or make contact with he ground wire to the socket. Its a pressure fit and my guess is dissimular metals. Add moisture to the picture and you get corrosion. I replaced both sockets to correct this problem. Using a NAPA replacement part.
    You would think this would call for a re-call.
  • (2003 express cargo 3/4ton, 34k miles, not heavy-duty use.) about 10mph the brake pedal mushes. mechanic diagnosis: replace front wheel bearing assy as the sensor is within that. 1)it seems this is premature for $500 repair. 2)could a pressure washer washing under the wheels have triggered it? 3)if not replaced, can brakes go out, or what are other bad can come of this? suggestions/thoughts?thanx in advance.
  • I have a 2001 Chevrolet Express 1500 LT van with 90,000 miles. I like the van, however, when I release the brakes, there is a "thud" in the rear brakes. Two different mechanics have looked at them, replaced the pads, adjusted them, but cannot eliminate this annoying noise. They tell me that there is nothing they can do to stop it. Are you all experiencing the same thing and have just gotten used to it? Or is there something that will fix the problem? What is the problem? Thanks for any advice that will help stop the problem (pun intended).
  • jcintcjcintc Posts: 3
    I need to thank everyone for the answer to my chevy express van brake light problem. After I posted & no one replied I forgot about the post & the dealer wanted $480 to fix it. Since I only drove the van a couple of times a year I didn't have it fixed. This week I decided to tackle the problem, did a search on google & my original post came up. I had totally forgot it. But thanks to you guys the answer was here. Replace the 2 lower sockets, which I got @ NAPA for $39 & that solved the problem. Thanks again everyone.
    jcintc
  • mfagg49mfagg49 Posts: 3
    anyone know how to adjust the emergency brake on a 2005 chevrolet express cargo van
  • My brakes are acting super sensitive and will lock up if even moderate pressure is put on the pedal. I thought it was the front ones only as the van stays in a straight line, so I replaced the front pads, cleaned and greased the bushings. This only helped a slight amount. Anyone got any ideas?
  • You might need new rear wheel cylinders....i have 2 express vans...my 2000 has almost 400,000 miles...and my 02 has 295,000. GREAT VANS!!!
  • Hello there. First post. While we should all know that protecting (not over using the brakes) will help prevent warping and vibration, this post is different.

    '06 Express 3500 12 passenger van. Loaded up with people coming down a 9% grade (Jackson Hole, WY). I am a conscience driver and pay close attention to the vehicle, especially around extreme conditions. I was descending this grade with moderate speed and typical braking. The more I used the brakes, the more they became pulsating and alternating in the front (steering wheel shook back and forth ever more aggresively). I became very nervous as it became very severe and quickly downshifted the transmission and avoided the brakes as much as I could. I was certain that I had over used the brakes (even though I was paying attention and didn't think I had). I was certain I would have to have the rotors turned and brakes replaced in Jackson, WY. Silly think is once I was on level ground, the vibrations completely disappeared. With shaking that violent, there is no way that the brakes could have been that hot and the rotors that warped and not remain that way. Once rotors are warped, they are warped. But I tell you that I have not taken it in yet and they are as smooth as the day I purchased the van. It is like nothing ever happened. I do not understand why this could be.

    Any help? :confuse:
  • My 98 chevy cargo van has no brake lights. The regular tail lights work fine,but when I press the brake pedal,nothing.Now I have checked all the usual suspects like the bulbs,fuses and even brake light switch.I would appreciate any help with this problem.
  • I am having this same problem with a 1997 3500 express Van. The brakes are super sensitive after the van sits overnight. Slaming on the brakes at 10 miles per hour makes the problem go away for the day. I pulled rear drums and looked at front rotors. All looked good. No fluid leaks. Van only has 9,000 miles on it. No anti lock lights on the dash? Can any one help?
  • praughpraugh Posts: 3
    I've had the same exact problem with my '05 2500 12 passenger van. Going down an extended grade, while using the brakes, I'll get a vibration that gets worse and worse. It seems like it must be heat related, because it doesn't do it in the winter and when it does do it in the spring, summer, and fall, it goes away as soon as I'm not using the brakes much.

    Have you found out the problem with yours?
  • I have a 1997, 3500 with 412+000 miles on it and the intake manifold gaskets were leaking. Replacing them did the trick but while all of that was apart I also had the fuel pressure regulator replaced also. It's alot easier to do it now than later since it is located inside the intake manifold. If you've noticed it takes a few more cranks for the engine to start that's usually the problem.
  • 1320jon1320jon Posts: 18
    FYI, I did a part trade with a denali owner for his Baer brakes. They went right on, baers aluma sport 14 inch rotors front and rear. My gmc awd van brakes went ringht on his 06denali. awd for trade in.

    So, if you need parts you can use denali awd brake parts, or if you want exceptional braking you can purchase or get lucky and trade like I did for a baer like system that is for the 1500ck trucks....all the same, and most of the suspension if its a torsion bar front end truck, like the awd denali, awd escalade etc...
  • I saw your post about replacing the intake gaskets on your 99 Chevy Express. I have a leak and wasn't sure if the intake gasket is the gasket between the water pump and the engine? Please confirm. Thanks.
  • I have a '03 2500 AWD Express cargo. I do land surveying and the truck has been wonderful in off-road applications with slightly over-sized Pro-comp MT's . I am fully aware that it isn't a full 4 wheel, and do not ask it to be one. I would like to put heavy duty shocks on it, however, it being a somewhat rare item KYB list their gas-matic only for the front, and state the do not have a shock for the rear. I have, on my own on the internet, cross-referenced KYB's applications, and it appears that the the Tahoe, 00-06, Denali 00-06 might be of the same front end construction. Any help on Bilstein, or KYB Monomax, heavy duty truck shock applications, and a 1"-2" lift system would be appreciated.
  • 1320jon1320jon Posts: 18
    The front ends are the same as all gm independant tortion bar front ends. You can not per say lift it....butyou can increase traval slightly by raising the tortion bar spring rate. All it takes is an adjustment.......I could do it in under 30 minutes for the front end, but I build and fabricate stuff for race cars. Any decent shop should do it for a pretty small charge. The rear can be raised also pretty easiliy but I d have to check into it. Problems could arise with driveshafts, yoke spline engagement etc...Ill have to look.

    Shocks, will not and do not raise the ride height, but may help aot with wheel control and ride. We have done shocks on a friends 04 awd, and a rear sway bar. The shocks helped, they are the strongest bilstiens we could get. Ill have to get the number. They work well, but for all around comfort and performance we were thinking of trying the edelbrocks on mine. A lot of shocks are made by one company and reboxed etc ....ie rancho's are really monroes I think. They are about 90% sales pitch and 10% good shock. The guy that owns the 04 I referenced is a suspension guy. I rely on him for alot of information.

    Since your using it offroad, if your worried about getting stuck, find out if your awd is equipped with a positraction in the rear. I think it was an option, but not sure. Id bet most are open anyways. Lots of options there, but costly also.

    I se you have a 2500 awd? I researche dit abit, and found that (I think) the 2500 is really just 1500 with options. It was unconfirmed but I think the "2500" gets different spring rates and thats it. The tow package gets 3.73 gears, and teh stiffere springs I think. A true 2500 should have gotten 8 lug wheels(or a 6lug 2500 diff), the 4l80 e trans with a 6.0 engine, but I m nearly 100% sure they never built such a van.

    Anyways Ill try to remember to talk to my friend, he has teh part numbers, interchangability etc all memorized somehow.
    He is sorta like an encyclopedia on allthings suspension/van and truck related. His back ground is very very heavily offroad, and rock crawling etc.
  • Thank you for replying, I appreciate it, I've gotten frustrated trying to research, find out suspension data on this van. It has the 6 lugs, therefore, I also think it is basically a 1500 with some extras. If you would be kind enough to provide me with Bilstein, Eldebrock shock numbers I am grateful. The idea of a rear sway bar is wonderful too, do you have a manufacturer #, or info on it? I had the truck on a lift and rotated one of the rear wheels, and the other rear wheel turned the opposite direction, therefore, I concluded that it is not a posi, I was hoping it was. Again thanks, for your reply. The other day I was at a job, and the owner pulled up in a diesel 4 wheel, looked at me, I said I'll follow you into the muddy field, I maneuvered a whole lot easier that him. He was slipping, and sliding, I was driving straight on.
  • 1320jon1320jon Posts: 18
    I talked with my best friend, that also owns an 04 awd. He actually got me into them. He isnt very computer literate, and said just call him. He can give you the part numbers etc.....just email me and Ill send you his number.
  • I can't see how to email you privately.
  • 1320jon1320jon Posts: 18
  • 1320jon1320jon Posts: 18
    [email protected]

    I thought it showed it, sorry.
  • 1320jon1320jon Posts: 18
    the intake gasket is two large peices and two small bridges. The intake is the peice that is directly in the center top of teh engine. On a 99 the tbi bolts to it. The end gaskets are just rubber bridges that most mechanics never use. Most used permatex instead as a bead along the top of the engine block. I use "the right stuff"

    The side (actual intake gasket) sits on the cylinder heads on each side, the intake bolts down to the heads with the bridge of the block itself in the middle at teh front and back about 7 inches across.

    An intake gasket leak would be rare, and might be possle to fix just by tightening the intake down a bit. Most common is an oil leak from the back along the bridge area. I think the information regarding the fp regulator being in the intake is incorrect. Most are on the the intake, but on a tbi injected 99 model I dont think its even near the tb. It ma even be regulated in the tank.

    The gaskets are about 20-30$.......and it would take awhile to do. In my van I have to remove the front seats just to get the dog house off.......
  • jrg38jrg38 Posts: 6
    This will sound over simplisticbut double check your fuses there is one that says brake,. and one on the bottom that says stop.
  • jrg38jrg38 Posts: 6
    I have a 1999 gmc savana conversion van that I would like to convert the rear brakes to disc, it has 11in drums currently. does anyone know of a kit that will convert without mods??
  • 1320jon1320jon Posts: 18
    most of the stopping power is on the front. Itmat serve you much better to do the front first. There are many options, I know there is a 14 inch rotor kit for about 650$ that goes on the front. This will substantially improve braking. Drums actually work very well (even better then discs) when only used once. For one stop drums are fine. For repeated stops, racing, trying to slow a heavy load going down a hill is where drums fade, and discs shine.

    you do need atleast 18 wheels to clear the large rotors. I scored a bear brake systems aluma brake system from a guy with a denali trading it in. The bear system is (4) 14 inch rotors with 4 piston calipers, I ve never been into brakle systems....I build power for going fast. So far the bears have saved it twice from accidents....and the stopping is incredible. I run 20 inch wheel with 275 tires too.
  • jrg38jrg38 Posts: 6
    Does anyone know what conversion kit ( drum to disc rear) will fit this vehicle?
    It has a 10 bolt diff.
  • jrg38jrg38 Posts: 6
    What year was the denali & did the rear disc work without any mods?
  • mas1169mas1169 Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 Savana 3500 cutaway box truck with 5.7 L gas. The other day I noticed my speedometer seemed to be hanging up and not working correctly. When I got out of the truck with it still running my daytime running lights(which in 2002 is still part of the headlights) were alternating like an emergency vehicle. When I turned the actual headlights on at the switch the alternating stopped but when switch was turned off they started alternating again. This has happened only one time since but both times it involved the same symptoms with the speedometer acting up and the drl's alternating. Anyone have any ideas?
  • Hello,
    I have a 2003 Express 3500 with both the ABS and Brake light on. Before going to a dealer and paying 90.00 to diagnose, is there a fuse for the ABS under the hood? If so, location?
    Thank You,
    Shawn
  • Our 2003 van had the same problem. Turned out that the ABS brake module failed and had to be replaced... $700. Ouch. Make sure no after market electronics have been wired into that circuit as it can rob amps from the module causing the problem.
  • markee1markee1 Posts: 1
    Our 2005 Forrest River motor home has this same symptom. My mechanic said it sounds like over heating but I never ride the brakes and 99% there is no sign of vibration. It only shows up when you need good braking the most, going down steep passes even if I'm crawling. I have had the brake lines replaced because they collapsed and the antilock brake control board has been replaced. These repairs had no effect on this problem.
  • I have 2003 chev 1 ton dump that I replaced all the brake lines at that time the abs light was out but came on shorthly after and then i bleed the lines that go into the abs unit wich is under the cab now when you start it after runing the light goes out but then comes on and stay,s on can you help what do I do next and also checked the fuse it is good
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