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Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis Climate Control
Our '98 GM makes a gurgling sound behind the passenger-side dashboard when the car is accelerating. This occurs in all conditions, whether air conditioner or heater is on. Is this something in the heater core and can I fix it myself in some way without too much trouble? Thanks. Chris.
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Comments
vmon
If the fluid on the floor is clear, it is probably condensation from the A/C system, which is normal.
On my last search of the www.crownvic.net Forums I turned-up a note from a fellow who said "[i]most guys just fix it with a little bit of solder[/i]" this turned-on a lightbulb for me and today I had a look at the solder-joints where the connector is attached to the Controller Board. Sure enough, I could see that the solder was cracked at one of the big lugs of the connector!
I heated-up the pins at all 5 connector lugs and flowed a little solder into the "gaps" around the pins. When I plugged the Board into the harness I found I have a Blower that once again works under control of the EATC!
Now all I have to do is re-install the Board into the Heater/AC Box - a real tight squeeze. Right now I have it tie-wrapped to something under the hood but the heat sink on the Power Transistor gets REAL HOT - I think the best place in it is back inside that Heater/AC Box...
This should make you feel better - it cost me $145 to have my mechanic fix it, including parts.
This fixed my air problem.
Good luck.
Brian
I have a similar problem with a 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis LSE with climate control (Electronic Automatic Temperature Control or EATC for short). I have checked the obvious including the inside passenger compartment fuses plus the power distribution box underneath the front hood with particular attention to both the blower motor relay and blower motor fuses. I even swapped them out with other working relay and fuses in the power distribution box. I then measured the voltage being applied to the blower motor itself under the hood. It read anywhere from 1 to 6 DC volts or so. I have a similar blower motor layout in a well maintained 1997 Ford Crown Victoria (without EATC) and that voltage reading was 13-14 volts whether the fan speed control was set on low or high. So I'm suspicious of the lower voltage I measured in my Grand Marquis versus my Crown Vic... why would there be this big difference?
While traveling down the highway yesterday at 50-60 mph with the a/c set to 70 degrees, I could feel cool air coming from the vents in my 2003 Grand Marquis probably because of some of the air being recirculated from the outside to the inside. The faster I went, the more cool air I could feel coming from the vents BUT still the blower motor wasn't working. So the A/C system is working, it just ain't blowing this cool air around the inside of my car!
I read about a EATC module self test today at: http://www.p71interceptor.com/eatcswap/selftest.html which I performed with NO Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) indicated. I then disassembled the fan speed control switch, cleaned it with a cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol, reassembled everything but still the same result... the heater and a/c is not blowing any warm or cold air whatsoever.
What else am I overlooking?
Let me tell you though that this was an absolutely "miserable" module to replace. It is under the hood sandwiched below the two heater hoses and underneath the vapor mangement valve and secured with two 8 mm screws. What should have been a 10 minute job turned into a 2-3 hour miserable job thanks (once again) to the forward-thinking engineers at Ford Motor Company. I don't know what those automotive engineers were smoking but it must have been damn good!
I did read somewhere that if this blower speed controller needed replacement, that something else (like the blower motor itself) may have been the real culprit. Anyone else have any opinions about this?
I paid $150 to get mine fixed by my local Mom and Pop garage. One advantage of the Grand Marquis is everyone knows how to work on it, so don't overpay for a dealer to fix it.
One suggestion is to find the garage your local police uses for repairs - they will know the car inside and out.
Thanks
Al Malone
I checked the system, all doors function and do not loose vacuum, supply holds vacuum even post car being off, so storage canister is fine, no leaks in connection.
What is left? EATC
Symptoms are that air is coming from vent but changes to def/floor or will just come from def/floor.
The only reason I can see after checking everything is that the solenoids in the EATC that regulate the vacuum to the different doors are not getting enough current. This in turn allows the opening to the outside air to open when the solenoid is activated and therefore loosing vacuum in that part of the system.
Does anybody know how to fix this, short of replacing the EATC and does anybody have an electric schematic of the EATC?
Mr5x5,
I've had the exact same problem in my 2001 GM LSE. Last year Feb. I had the blend door actuator replaced. I'm thinking that perhaps the mechanic bumped or somehow caused the Controller Board to have a solder crack. Until then, the blower worked fine. A short time after the repair I noticed that the blower was intermittent. My blower stopped completely last week.
I could not find anything on line to explain this until I read your post. Can you explain where I find the "Controller Board" to check it out. Naturally with the LSE it has the center consul making everything a bit harder to access under the dash. It sounds like it needs to be inside the heater/AC box to maintain the right temperature so it doesn't burn out.
I'd sure appreciate any advise you can give me.
Thanks,
Sweating it out in Phoenix Az. Whew!!!
KeatsArizona :shades:
Not in my Merc, I made it a 'manual' automatic climate control.
Since you have the same problem as I have I thought to fill you in on my fix.
I use the vacuum supply line to directly connect to the actuators of the doors. Since it is about 95 degrees I choose to have it all come out of the vents as the car would normally do. Initially not as good as 'factory' until I added vacuum to the Air inlet door as well. This gives you the well known blast of cold air from the vents.
The fix: Hope yours is like mine: Underneath the dash in the foot well there is a vacuum connector plug with multiple vacuum lines that goes to the Climate control unit. Disconnect this and use the male end to make the connections.
Here is what is what on my 03:
Black: Supply
Blue: Panel door
White: Air inlet door
Yellow: Floor/defrost door
Red: Floor door
As I said, I used a vacuum hose directly from Black to Blue and White, needed for this is a short piece of vacuum hose with one T connection since you will use three connections.
It works like a dream and the temperature control still works as before including fan speed control.
Enjoy.
Till I find a fix or a reasonable priced replacement unit I will live with this fix.
For winter driving you probably will have to connect black to yellow directly.
Happy cruising and playing with this manual fix. :shades:
I thought it was low on coolat which it was, it took like a gallon of coolant ... each time I fill it it goes down to nothing as i drive for a day until I finished a gallon and now It's stable (Level) but that noise is bothering me, you can hear the flow of the coolant with turbulence in it close to the firewall in the interior side of it.
Thanks
sam,
Your airconditioning should not be comming on when it gets close to freezing though! Hope it is of any help, nothing lost if not right?
Good luck.
I have also does the easy part - check all the fuses and relays but to no avail.
Help it get hot here in Houston
The problem was the EATC head unit. Apparently, as noted elsewhere here, the solenoids can go bad. The total cost was over $900 to fix. Roughly $650 of that was for the part, a little over $200 for labor. Then tax.
Not fun.
So be warned. It's a great car. I truly love it. But this hurt. The first unit lasted 87000 miles. I'm hoping this one lasts longer!!
Hate to sound stupid here, but when you say climate controller, are you talking about the in dash unit with the push-buttons on it?
Do you remember where on EBAY you find the unit?
Thanks,
Charlie
Thanks
thetaz