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Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis Transmission/Suspension
Hi everyone. Hope someone can help me out. My son was driving the Crown Vic one night this summer & suddenly the engine started to rev way up but the car was slowing down. Now you have to rev the engine way up before it will start to move. It seems to shift ok once it is going. I haven't had the time or money to look at it so it has just been sitting. Then one day I decided to move it in order to mow the grass under it. When I started it up, the engine started to make a terrible knocking sound, run ruff, smoke & developed a fast drip of oil from the rear r/h side of the engine. The oil level is still ok & have good oil pressure. I'm afraid that it may cost more than it is worth to fix it. Any ideas? Thanks!!
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I'd guess the tranny or torque converter is a goner, and the engine could be as well. I'd be tempted to take your lumps and find another used CV.
I know my old 1994 Grand Marquis was quieter and smoother than my 2002. The 2002 performs much better, but I still miss the old girl.
I recently purchased a 2005 Grand Marquis (would'nt have bought anything else)
I drive a lot of miles....since my purchase I have noticed that I have a vibration in the floor both driver and can feel the same in the passenger seat. Mostly at 60-70 mph but can also be felt at lower speeds. For what it is worth....I don't feel the car is as quiet as my 95.
Has anyone else experienced the same? So far the dealership has replaced the drive shaft (indicating they thought it was out of spec) Foreced balanced the tires..(found no real problem)
I have driven another 2005 from there lot and feel some of the same but not near as severe. There indications are that they do not know what to look for next.
Anybody have any help..experiences....or suggestions.
Thanks
Be sure the rear transmission mount is secure and tight.
Also be certain your exhaust system, from the manifold all the way back, is 100% tight, secure, and right. Be certain ALL muffler clamps are fully tightened.
You are describing what perhaps might be a harmonic vibration. Can you get it to happen just by revving the engine, or must the car be in motion?
Try driving the car in a lower gear and see if the more severe vibration happens at a lower speed. The objective is to see if the problem is connected purely to vehicle velocity, or connected instead to engine RPMs.
Report results/outcomes, if any, to your tech/service person.
Good luck!
The car is a really sweet one owner car that had 77,000kms on it. I got it for $11K CDN and it still has 2000kms (about 2 months driving for me) to go on a factory extended warranty purchased by the previous owner.
I've prowled the 'Net but I haven't found anyone describing the same problem who has found a solution.
A "transmission service" cured the vibration for me.
Do not let a mechanic tell you the torque converter is bad - it almost never is. Fresh tranny fluid, including draining the torque converter, will fix it.
Assuming that is the problem.
Honest.
But have you considered taking the car to a different dealer? That's what I would do. Your present dealer sounds like a snake.
And I mean no disrespect to snakes, either.
Indicators of the package include: dual exhaust, oversize tires, higher rear end gear in the differential, 3.55 instead of a 3.25, thicker stablizor bars, extra heavy duty shocks that are stiff. Decoding the numbers on the door will help you know what you have.
If you can adjust to the above, you will appreciate its qualities over time. Improved handling is safer than yawing and pitching.
My only suggestion is to possibly swap out the rear air bags with those that go on the Town Car - any year should work. Or, I would see if the dealer has a different part number for a new model Grand Marquis - maybe they have softened the settings in later model years.
I think the problem was addressed in later years. I am not sure if they used softer suspension bushings, different shocks, or what. I have rented newer GMs and TCs and found the ride much better than the 03's. You might want to explore this with a high volume dealer. I guarantee you they had some buyer reluctance to the ride of the 03's and they might have suggestions regarding shocks or other fairly simple modifications.
The car rides like a truck but it corners like a sports car. In addition to my MGM I own three British classic sports cars, all now antiques, as well as a Ford F350 mason dump with the dual rear wheels. So I speak with some experience on this.
I can live with the stiff 2005 MGM ride because of my sports car background. But I am very sympathetic to those who bought an MGM expecting a softer, big car, ride. What a surprise for them!
Really when I bought my car earlier this year I was attracted by the O/D, the rack-and-pinion steering, the Michelins, the V-8, and the leather. I settled for the watts-linkage rear; what I really wanted was IRS. But the MGM did seem like sort of a sports car, cloaked as a big fat hunk of "Detroit Iron".
Little did I realize the (relatively) hard seats and tight suspension would give my MGM more of a sports car feel than I ever anticipated.
Folks who like the MGM but want the traditional softer ride need to locate and purchase a low mileage example of a 2002 model year MGM. I'm pretty sure the 2002 cars are free of the dreaded intake manifold problem found in 2001 cars all the way back through 1996. If I have the years wrong somebody here will correct me. But I never would buy a car having a coolant crossover made of plastic (this was part of the intake manifold); not unless the seller gave me a $750 discount so I could have that problem fixed.
BTW my 91 year old grandmother thought the ride of my '04 CV was exemplary - I don't even want to guess how old you guys must be LOL! :P
Yes, that one took me by surprise, too. Not sure if he was serious or kidding. By the way, your Grandmother is just a kid. When she gets a little older, she might find your CV a bit rough for her tastes.
Seriously, I know the '03s were firmed up but I think I read somewhere that later models had some retuning done on shocks, swaybars, and bushings to soften things up a bit. That change (unless I dreamed it) may have been on the '04 and newer ones. I recall chatting with my Lincoln dealer after driving the '03 TC and he told me that they were getting a lot of complaints about the '03 TC and GM ride.
More bad news for Canadian consumers: starting in 2007, even Grand Marquis are fleet-only!
I just bought a 1999 Marquis. I test drove around a little and it was fine, but after I bought it, driving has revealed a stiff ride. I have had several Lincoln/Mercurys and the the ride was outstanding. The bumps are like jolts in this car. I have read the suspension was changed in 1998, but I am wondering if there are different softer shocks I can buy. Help.
If you want to ease the pain of hemorroids, lower the air pressure in softer side wall tires, but it will never ride like it didn't have the "Touring Package".
Was running at 35psi as recommended on door panel, ride a bit to harsh on rough surfaced roads. Have dropped to 32.5 psi. A much better more comfortable ride. Am I shortening the life of the tires?
Is there a much greater risk of side wall damage at the lower pressure? The tires read 35 psi, maximum pressure so I am assuming that the slightly lower pressure is not going to either shorten tire life or leave me very vulnerable to side wall damage. Am I correct in these assumptions? What pressure do others use on town cars, and what results have you had?
While I'm here, am I the only one who can't help but laugh at the notion of replacing springs in these cars with SOFTER ones? The typical thing to do when modifying a car to get it lower, make it stiffer, etc. and yet there's so much talk of going the OTHER direction on Panthers. It's just kinda funny ^_^.
And, Panthers are an excellent start for a performance car. Lots can be done with the 4.6L (or stuff a supercharged 5.4L under the hood?), and just think of the wild sleeper you could make!
Any suggestions so that I can try to avoid getting raped by unscrupulous mechanics would be greatly appreciated.
Labor might be a little higher, but if you use high quality fluid (like Amsoil), you should be good for another 100,000 miles.
This could be done by an average shadetree mechanic, but trying to remove 14 bolts from the transmission pan while on my back is no longer something I'd like to try.
Thats funny, I have single exhaust and the handling package, so that statement would be false, just wanted to correct you on that.
I inherited my father's '91 CV wagon, LTD, w the 5.0 and it's been great, but the tranni has been whirring at about 40 mph for the last 2 yrs. or so. To compensate, I start in overdrive, 0 to 40, hear the whir, switch to drive, then accelerate to 60, when I can get back into OD again to save gas. If I don't do this, the trani makes this slipping sound and the car hesitates. I switch the gears cuz I don't want to wreck the transmission. ( I had an '85 Buick Cent. T that took 6 rebuilt tranis,(GM 440's), but got 185K miles out of it.) Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks. Teacher in San Jose
The poster above is correct in regards to the fluid to use - Mercron V is backwards compatible with all Grand Marquis back to 1992.
This is just my personal preference, but when I change the fluid, I drop the pan and change the filter as well - in my mind power flushing just forces all the dirt in the filter back into the transmission. That will also allow your mechanic to see how much trash is attached to the magnet in the pan, and whether there is something more serious to fix.
I have a 99 Grand Marquis that has had major issues, but only has 44K miles on the engine. I should preface this that my mother bought it back in 2001 with 21K miles on it. She knows nothing about cars, and the ford dealer at the time took advantage of her (IMHO). She never did a carfax (not that she would know what that is) on it, but I have since. It was originally owned by a "major car agency" (I believe that's speak for a rental) in Virginia. They shipped it to MA and she bought it. Over $6,000 later (not including the cost of the car) I have had numerous issues.
I have an extremely trustworthy mechanic and excellent diagnostician when it comes to cars of all makes - but this one has stumped him for the past 4 months. We had a total of 21 bad codes on the computer and after taking things apart we found evidence of salt water corrosion. Anywho, the car would drive at any speed and suddenly shut off - very dangerous. He was able to fix that. Down to one last problem - could use your thoughts:
When driving in OD, usually b/w 30 and 60 MPH, the car shutters a bit and the trac control light comes on. It happens occasionally when I'm driving with the OD off, but very infrequently. My mechanic has replaced every module and computer and bypassed wiring harnesses with clean, direct connections, to no avail. He brought it to a local Ford dealer, explained the situation, and they were at a loss as well. They mutually decided to replace (I believe) the traction control/ABS (?) module and reflash the computer. Still no joy.
Any thoughts? I'm thinking it's a tranny issue, but he already flushed and filled with Merkon V. He has gotten to the point where he has stopped charging me any labor, but that always puts me on the back burner when it comes to him fixing cars. I don't want to go somewhere else and start over again, and I certainly am not interested in going to Ford dealer as they seem to not give a crap.
Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions ????
Please - If this car had theft on it I'd actually consider drastic measures....
Also, do you think it's rational to want to keep the ol' girl running? The engine is strong,5.0L/150 hp, and it needs about $1500 in body work. Interior's very clean. This is the most comfortable riding car I've ever had, and I'd like to drive it for a couple of decades more, maybe even past that!
Thanks for all the tips.
I just got the car out of the shop yesterday. They rebuilt the transmission. The torque converter was the real culprit. It burn out out the overdrive band in the tranny. By talking to the tech that fixed my car, this is a common problem with these transmissions. Luckily for me I had 40 miles left on my extended aftermarket warranty and the repair was covered. The cost of the repair was just under $1900.00.
Hope this helps.
Thanks to everyone for your input.