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Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis Transmission/Suspension



  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Stiff Ride usually is associated with the CV, GM, & TC that has the "Handling Package" or "Touring Package". Depending on the year of the car it can also have dual exhaust, plus size tires with stiff side walls, heavier duty suspension, larger diameter stabilizer bars,and an axle ratio of 3.27 instead of 2.89 or a ratio of 3.55 rather than 3.27. The trade off of a firm ride is the car corners more like a locomotive & has quicker steering as well. You may feel the cracks in the pavement, but the overall handling is considerably safer.

    If you want to ease the pain of hemorroids, lower the air pressure in softer side wall tires, but it will never ride like it didn't have the "Touring Package". ;)
  • From what I'm reading on this forum, the 2003 rides stiffer than the other years including the 1999. Perhaps a previous year will seem acceptable compared to the 2003 for you. For me, this is a big disappointment, having owned 3 others previous to 1998 when the suspension was changed. I understand it was changed again in 2003. My previous year cars floated along without feeling bumps in the road. I discovered the stiffness in my 1999 car ride traveling down roads that I have traveled on for over 20 years that I didn't even know were bumpy before. Would be great if there this could be improved because the car is beautiful otherwise.
  • After doing reading on the internet, I have decided that I am going to look for another car. When I find that car, I will sell my 1999 Grand Marquis. I think you should consider doing the same with your 2003. Why keep something where you are not happy? I still cannot believe that a car that looks how the Grand Marquis looks and is so nice otherwise, has such a stiff ride. The bumps are way too noticable. Yes, I admit it corners better than any car I've had, but 2 things, I am normally going forward and not turning constantly, and if I wanted a preformance car, I wouldn't have thought of a Grand Marquis. Such a disappointment.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    #1493 of 1493 TIRE PRESSURE FOR LINCOLN TOWN CAR 2005 MODEL? by bremertong Oct 10, 2006 (10:26 pm)
    Was running at 35psi as recommended on door panel, ride a bit to harsh on rough surfaced roads. Have dropped to 32.5 psi. A much better more comfortable ride. Am I shortening the life of the tires?
    Is there a much greater risk of side wall damage at the lower pressure? The tires read 35 psi, maximum pressure so I am assuming that the slightly lower pressure is not going to either shorten tire life or leave me very vulnerable to side wall damage. Am I correct in these assumptions? What pressure do others use on town cars, and what results have you had?
  • While not necessarily a defence, what you're probably experiencing is the frame transmitting vibrations throughout the car. I love body on frame, but that is one of its drawbacks. To say that these cars ride harshly (or handle like sportscars - still an astonishing thing to say!) is certainly an over-reaction, though. Pre-2003 Panthers are perhaps the softest, most wallowing machines made in the last decade! My 2004 Crown Victoria runs 37 psi in the tires, and the ride is still very nice: you feel the bumps, no doubt, but it's still softer than my '85 Grand Marquis with the handling package was.

    While I'm here, am I the only one who can't help but laugh at the notion of replacing springs in these cars with SOFTER ones? The typical thing to do when modifying a car to get it lower, make it stiffer, etc. and yet there's so much talk of going the OTHER direction on Panthers. It's just kinda funny ^_^.

    And, Panthers are an excellent start for a performance car. Lots can be done with the 4.6L (or stuff a supercharged 5.4L under the hood?), and just think of the wild sleeper you could make!
  • I recently purchased an '01 Grand Marquis LS with the 4.6 in it. It had 67,00 miles on it. I have noticed lately that anywhere from 40 to 60 mph it sometimes "chugs", or jolts when I slowly accelerate. My uneducated guesses have led me to believe that it is either the transmission or something to do with the electronic ignition, but in reality I have no clue.
    Any suggestions so that I can try to avoid getting raped by unscrupulous mechanics would be greatly appreciated.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Having experienced the "shudder" - it is recommended you change the oil in the transmission and torque converter. You should then be good for another 40,000. ;)
  • 14 quarts of Mercron V transmission fluid - make sure they drain or pump out the fluid in the torque converter. I think the 2001's still have a drain plug in the torque converter. If you don't have a drain plug, the mechanic might have to disconnect a line at the transmission cooler and let it pump out. My opinion is to not "flush" the transmission, but drain the fluid, drop the pan and check for debris, clean the magnet, and change the transmission filter.

    Labor might be a little higher, but if you use high quality fluid (like Amsoil), you should be good for another 100,000 miles.

    This could be done by an average shadetree mechanic, but trying to remove 14 bolts from the transmission pan while on my back is no longer something I'd like to try.
  • Have you had your spark plugs and especially your spark plug leads checked or changed? A spark plug lead which breaks down can cause the engine to miss and the car to chug, jerk, or jolt. Sometimes this engine miss from a faulty spark plug lead happens under light acceleration rather heavy acceleration. Two or more bad spark plug leads can cause the car to really jerk, chuck, etc. Fouled spark plugs can cause the car to jerk, chug, etc.
  • fordenvyfordenvy Posts: 72
    If you have the single exhaust you do not have the handling package

    Thats funny, I have single exhaust and the handling package, so that statement would be false, just wanted to correct you on that.
  • Hi everyone,

    I inherited my father's '91 CV wagon, LTD, w the 5.0 and it's been great, but the tranni has been whirring at about 40 mph for the last 2 yrs. or so. To compensate, I start in overdrive, 0 to 40, hear the whir, switch to drive, then accelerate to 60, when I can get back into OD again to save gas. If I don't do this, the trani makes this slipping sound and the car hesitates. I switch the gears cuz I don't want to wreck the transmission. ( I had an '85 Buick Cent. T that took 6 rebuilt tranis,(GM 440's), but got 185K miles out of it.) Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks. Teacher in San Jose
  • hyphyhyphy Posts: 2
    yes i have a 97 vic. and sometimes when i excelerate the engine revs for a few second then it will shift. what could the problem be and how and how much does it cost to fix
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    If you have over 40,000 or it has been 40,000 since, change the transmission oil including the turbine. If you plan to keep the car change to a semi synthetique, it's costly, but lasts longer and performs better. Mercon V is the one.
  • It's hard to say - usually the sign that the transmission fluid is old is you will start to get "stuttering" when the transmission tries to shift into 4th gear. As mentioned above, it is the torque converter that gives you warning of that issue.

    The poster above is correct in regards to the fluid to use - Mercron V is backwards compatible with all Grand Marquis back to 1992.

    This is just my personal preference, but when I change the fluid, I drop the pan and change the filter as well - in my mind power flushing just forces all the dirt in the filter back into the transmission. That will also allow your mechanic to see how much trash is attached to the magnet in the pan, and whether there is something more serious to fix.
  • Hi Folks,
    I have a 99 Grand Marquis that has had major issues, but only has 44K miles on the engine. I should preface this that my mother bought it back in 2001 with 21K miles on it. She knows nothing about cars, and the ford dealer at the time took advantage of her (IMHO). She never did a carfax (not that she would know what that is) on it, but I have since. It was originally owned by a "major car agency" (I believe that's speak for a rental) in Virginia. They shipped it to MA and she bought it. Over $6,000 later (not including the cost of the car) I have had numerous issues.

    I have an extremely trustworthy mechanic and excellent diagnostician when it comes to cars of all makes - but this one has stumped him for the past 4 months. We had a total of 21 bad codes on the computer and after taking things apart we found evidence of salt water corrosion. Anywho, the car would drive at any speed and suddenly shut off - very dangerous. He was able to fix that. Down to one last problem - could use your thoughts:

    When driving in OD, usually b/w 30 and 60 MPH, the car shutters a bit and the trac control light comes on. It happens occasionally when I'm driving with the OD off, but very infrequently. My mechanic has replaced every module and computer and bypassed wiring harnesses with clean, direct connections, to no avail. He brought it to a local Ford dealer, explained the situation, and they were at a loss as well. They mutually decided to replace (I believe) the traction control/ABS (?) module and reflash the computer. Still no joy.

    Any thoughts? I'm thinking it's a tranny issue, but he already flushed and filled with Merkon V. He has gotten to the point where he has stopped charging me any labor, but that always puts me on the back burner when it comes to him fixing cars. I don't want to go somewhere else and start over again, and I certainly am not interested in going to Ford dealer as they seem to not give a crap.

    Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions ????
    Please - If this car had theft on it I'd actually consider drastic measures....
  • compatible w that car, too? I bot over $200 worth of Amsoil fluids and want to make sure they're okay for my old "tuna boat". The factory rep said they wear.

    Also, do you think it's rational to want to keep the ol' girl running? The engine is strong,5.0L/150 hp, and it needs about $1500 in body work. Interior's very clean. This is the most comfortable riding car I've ever had, and I'd like to drive it for a couple of decades more, maybe even past that!

    Thanks for all the tips.
  • tdocktdock Posts: 1
    I too had the same problems with my gm. At speeds of 38 to 42, mostly going up a hill the temp light would come on followed by the traction control light. I could feel the transmission not locking up. My gm is a 2000 with 67200 miles on it. And was also a former rental.

    I just got the car out of the shop yesterday. They rebuilt the transmission. The torque converter was the real culprit. It burn out out the overdrive band in the tranny. By talking to the tech that fixed my car, this is a common problem with these transmissions. Luckily for me I had 40 miles left on my extended aftermarket warranty and the repair was covered. The cost of the repair was just under $1900.00.

    Hope this helps.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Excessive heat is the No. 1 enemy of AT's. At only 67000 miles, an auxillary transmission cooler is an excellent idea. Examine the 10,000 lb model.
  • My problems were many, but what ultimately got the traction control problem solved was a new ABS module and a reflash of the PCM. Turned out that the part # on the ABS that was provided to Ford for the replacement months ago was the wrong part #, albeit this part # came right from the module installed in the car. The only explanation that makes any sense is that the original ABS module was replaced with the wrong one. So replacing the wrong module with the wrong module again obviously doesn't solve anything. We proved it to the Ford service dept (they tried charging me another $700 for a different module), but got them to relent and take back the wrong one and replace with the correct one. Everything seems to be back on track, to use a bad pun...
    Thanks to everyone for your input.
  • take some electrical contact cleaner and spray the mass airflow sensor. This will clean it, and might solve the driveability situation.
  • I have a 2003 Crown Vic Police Interceptor with 35000 miles on it. It was a light duty car for the Sheriff and his deputy, and never used for patrol. My problem is that it seems the engine and transmission roar louder than they should on acceleration. I have a 1995 CV and it is quiet and does not roar on acceleration. I know the 1995 car has lot's of insulation whereas the cop car has a vinyl mat and very little sound damping. Everything works correctly and the car runs issues with tranny or motor..except they seem a little loud.
    Also, the gas pedal is hard to seems to have a lot of resistance, and gets very tiring on long drives without cruise control. It doesn't seem like it is binding, just hard to push. Can the accelerator cable be adjusted?
  • i have a 2007 Crown Vic with 33K on it. I am having a problem whereby anytime the roads are wet, the powertrain seems to act out. It will usually happen when snow or ice are on the ground, but this makes no sense to me. First, the car will feel like a skip hits it. Then eventually, a lit wrench appears on the dashboard. The engine lihgt also illuminates and remains on. The cruise control also goes out. If i restart the car, everything is back to normal until the skip happens again.

    I had this on my 2006 crown vic, and the dealership didn't know what the problem was because I could never get it there with the wrench lit. Anybody know what i'm talking about or have experiences with it?
  • 2001 Grand Marquies 4.?L engine 32 K miles. The service engine light came on and the overdrive on/off light began to blink. Took it to autozone for a scan and it came up with the output speed sensor insufficient input code P0720. Is this possible it's just a bad sensor or can this be an input problem to the sensor? I can cycle the O/D button on the shifter a few times and the light will stop blinking on and off. Does anyone know where the sensor is located? Is this something I can change while changing the transmission fluid?
  • Hey just wanted to say that i have a 1991 crown vic and the tranny went out and i believe what your probably expering is either the od band is out or there may be a throttle valve which is a cable that goes from the top of the motor to the tranny and the top piece is mad out of teflon and it has gotton hot and burnt up. if those are not the case check the rear end my went out with the same shuddering and when it went out i was going down the insterstate and the axle and all flew out so be carefull. anyway i have work on tranny for the ford people for 19 years and there just saying they dont know couse they don't want to work or they want to wait for the right time so they can rip you off. just chek those couse after i fixed mine rear end and tranny i have never had trouble. i have owned 3 crown vics and all have had tranny trouble. good luck
  • deangelotldeangelotl Posts: 3
    Ok I have a 94 grand marquis and the trans just started acting up on me yesterday. It wouldn't shift into park and the gears fear loose when I shift to them. I found a bolt in the driverside floor board and it have no idea what it goes to. Please give me some kind of feedback on this problem.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    1. Not shifting into Park may require a minor linkage adjustment.

    2. Not knowing how many miles since you had a fluid change, perhaps that is due. Remember to also drain the torque converter and install a new filter in the transmission.

    3. The bolt found on the floor board may be related to the need for linkage adjustment, but I doubt it. Your Mercury dealer parts manager would know by showing it to him.
  • deangelotldeangelotl Posts: 3
    what kind of transmission does a 94 grand marquis have. Im thinking about buying a whole new one, if anyone has that is in good condition contact me
  • Hey guys,

    My 2005 Mercury Gr Marquis LS with 111150 miles sometimes feels like the wheels are going to fall off at any moment. I'm pretty sure I have a warped brake rotor, but would that cause the car to shudder like nervous Nelly while the brakes aren't engaged? Otherwise I have had the alignment inspected (multiple shops say it's fine) and the only items that aren't stock are the tyres, the Michelins have been replaced with Goodyear TripleTreads. I keep the car well serviced - engine and transmission fluids and filters changed, as well as the rear differential fluid... All in accordance with the owners manual. I'm kinda lost here because I'm starting to set off seismometers.
  • It sounds like broken bushings or busted ball joints, or maybe the tie rod.
    The tie rod, often must be replaced frequently on the MGM.

    The other issue with the tires may be the cause - make sure the tires are the same
    size and wideness.

    Best luck.
    The Legendary Danny O'Doul
  • pepperdogpepperdog Posts: 3
    First thing you do is replace the fuel filter located on the frame rail. Get a motorcraft filter for about $16, and have an oil change place put it in for about $40. You will be amazed the difference something so small and forgotten can make. Be sure to have the mechanic show you the condition of the gas and water and sludge-like fluid flowing out of it after it has been removed so you can see how much sludge you may have in your tank. If your fuel filter is very sludged up, you will need to remove your gas tank and replace the filter inside the tank as well as clean out the tank so you get all the sludge and slime. This is something you will want to do to any car that has been sitting un-used for a long period of time, or if you buy your gas at out of the way mom and pop stations who never change their gas tank or pump filters.
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