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Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis General Maintenance
tritium_man
Member Posts: 3
I have a 2000 Grand Marquise with 50.234 miles. I see the 2005 and 2006 Grand Marquise call for 5w-20 motor oil. It’s the same motor as in my 2000 question is can I use 5w-20 in my 2000 Grand Marquise.
I currently use mobile full synthetic 5-30.
Any thoughts
I currently use mobile full synthetic 5-30.
Any thoughts
0
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Comments
tritium: my 04 Crown Vic 4.6L calls for 5W-20, but I use Castrol Synthetic 5W-30, same as I use in my 04 Ram Hemi...I fail to use how a 30 weight when hot can hurt the engine in place of the reco 20 weight...besides, is the actual difference even noticeable from 20 to 30 weight???...maybe in the cold tundra of Alaska/North Dakota and Montana, but in Georgia winters, where the temp spends two weeks below freezing and we call that "cold?"
Is Ford's 100.000 mile tune up good should I do sooner?
I'd say that MPG isn't too bad, though, for a 6 year old car.
Why 37psi for more fuel economy?
It also mitigates in favor of wearing out the rear tires at their centers. So you had better be sure you are saving more on gas than it is costing you extra for tires.
That would mean that you could put on larger tires and get better mpg?? I believe the reason for better mpg with increasing tire pressure is that it reduces friction. Just like if you were driving with tires more narrow. Just don't keep the pressure that high if it's snowing, because then you'll want more traction.
Excellent analysis. I wish I'd thought of that!
First, though, re your tire diameter remark:
Yes, of course larger tires will result in better gas mileage because, once again, rolling diameter is increased. This is equivalent to changing to a higher rear-end ratio. Done within the transmission this is called "overdrive". All three approaches yield more forward travel of the vehicle per engine revolution.
But your idea is cooler, more subtle, and I agree with it.
One can ask, for a fixed final drive ratio, including tire diameter:
With which tires will I get better mileage, those absorbing energy through added flex or those flexing less and running "harder"? I agree with you that absorbtion of energy by the softer tires, even when rolling diameters are meticulously held constant, will result in a larger throttle opening at the same vehicle velocity. It's because that lost energy, quite literally, has to come from somewhere. It WILL come from the engine and reduce mileage, just as you pointed out.
So it isn't just the rolling diameter which contributes to better mileage, but the reduction in rolling resistance as well, when the tires are run at greater pressure.
Here's a quote:
http://autos.msn.com/Advice/Article.aspx?contentid=4018909
"Even larger tires can have an effect. A tire with a larger "footprint" on the road that doesn't have a special rubber compound designed to improve fuel economy has more rolling resistance than a comparable smaller tire, and this can lower fuel economy"
A larger tire diameter effectively translates the rotation of the hub to a higher velocity at the outside. Just look at a record or CD as it's turning: the hub is fairly slow, but the circumference is moving very quickly. v = r*w, where "v" is the linear velocity (tangential to the circumference), "r" is the radius of the circle, and "w" is the angular velocity. Thus, the bigger the radius, the larger the linear velocity, which translates into a faster-moving car. Or, you could look at it from the other way: the less fast the hub has to turn in order to maintain a given speed, and thus the less fast the engine has to turn, thereby saving fuel.
That's my theory, anyway
Using your CD example, if you put your hand on the edge of the CD when it's spinning (like the tires on the road), it's easy to stop the CD from moving, as compared to touching the inner wheel moving. So for a given CD motor, you can stop it easier on the edge then close to the center. To make it so when you pressed against the edge of the CD, the CD kept moving, you'd need a more powerful motor, which is the same as needing more power coming from an engine, which needs more gas to get that power.
Anyway, I'm probably wrong.
However, in the case of a car, remember that it takes almost no power to keep a car moving - maybe only 15 hp or so to maintain a given highway speed. This is how the whole V8-6-4, "Multi Displacement System", etc. are able to be so effective at saving fuel. For us Panther folks who run on all 8, all the time, there are gobs of excess power that our motors make at highway speed that is virtually useless; thus, even though it may take more energy to get the outer radius of large tires spinning against the friction of the road, the engine doesn't need to spin any higher to transfer its already-excess power to the wheels. I think that that makes sense, anyway
Not being a mechanic myself, I always thought that if a car was using oil, you would see it and smell it. Not so in this case. What could be wrong to cause the car to start using that much oil with no symptoms? How serious/expensive could it be?
Thanks!
Dave
In worse cases, a cloud of obnoxious white smoke appears whenever one accelerates. Real oil burning vehicles are therefore easy to spot.
The 94 Town Car has 127,000 miles and is still going on it's 2nd change.
Just be sure to drain the torque converter too. Drop the pan? Wouldn't hurt if high mileage.
While I honestly did not see any improvement in tranny performance, I do not expect to, any more than chganging engine oil shows noticeable improvement...I just do it for routine maintenance, hoping that the tranny will shower me with $150K miles of service or more...
A clean tranny is a happy tranny...:):):):):)
Thanks, I have a water pump leak and I will replace it. Thank again for your help. I hope this fixes the problem, because the car runs cool.
This is my first Panther car and I'm not the typical age of MGM owners. I was going to give it a checkup. I know for sure I want the transmission fluid drained and changed in addition to the coolant. Is there anything else you guys think I should get checked out or be conscious of since it probably hasn't been driven more than 3,000 miles the last three years. Thanks in advance for your reponse!
Nice to hear of someone else close to my situation....my purchase was of a '94 MGM GS with only 23k on it. I replaced the wiper blades, brake pads, and flushed the coolant system myself. I took to the dealer to have them flush the transmission. It had that stuttering vibration at 52mph because the previous owner didn't use the proper fluid when he changed it. The flush took care of the problem. I live in FL with hot humidity and am weary of anything rubber as I can tell by touch it is rotting. I also dealt with a leak. Everytime we get a bad rain, the right rear of the car fills up with water. I've taken the floor board plug out for drainage. I've had the car in two different dealerships over the issue (it's leaking around the firewall/AC unit) and have spent a few hundred bucks on it....to get no results. It seems worse when the car is parked on an incline with the trunk lower than the hood. So I sometimes back in to my parking space and this seems to do more good than anything. Good luck with your nice ride!
The RWD thing takes a bit of getting used to as my last car was a '90 Pontiac Bonneville.
I have just discussed that last suggestions of tranny and torque converter flushing with my husband and we will definately try this as we have no record of this being done.
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This morning, the 'check engine' light came on.
Any suggestions?
Don't know what caused the Temp Gauge flick, or TC light to come on, but I went to Murrays, borrowed their OBD 2 diagnostic gear, said No 8 misfire. Changed No.8 coil. now fine!
Glad that was cheap and easy ($63 inc tax). I also treated it to a new set of plugs, as they weren't too great (though color was fine), they are due for replacement at 100,000 miles (car's done 85,000), and they were only $24 including tax.
Thanks in Advance.
Tyres are less than 12 months old and wheels have been aligned and balanced. Very annoying feeling but main concern is safety when driving at speed. Any suggestions please?
I have owned cars where the check engine light comes on at 60k just as a routine maintanence type thing. Is this true with the grand marquis also or does he need to be concerned and bring it in to the shop?
Thanks