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Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis General Maintenance



  • fordenvyfordenvy Posts: 72
    I just heard today that 5000 miles isn't going to be recommended by Ford on their new models anymore. Now it's going to be every 7500 miles.
  • my 93 crown vic has a loose steering wheel its the actual steering wheel on inside of car, its just kinda wiggly and i know there is a way to tighten it up could someone explain the process to me? thanks
  • jjohiojjohio Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem with my 2004 grand marquis.It has 35,000 miles.I have tried installing washers on mounting bolts.Removing steering wheel and welding beads on top and bottom of shaft hole on steering wheel.neither helped fix became so bad i wouldn't drive the vehical.I removed the steering column and had my local dealer rebuild it. cost me about $200 which wasnt too bad.The coulmn was tight when i reinstalled it.Although it is starting to work loose again. I was hopeing ford would have a TSB, or I would find something on the internet on how to fix it.
  • Just bought a 99 Grand Marquis. I am not terribly familiar with the Ford 4.6 and need to ask a dumb question: How do I get to the plug wires on this darn car?
  • ronald1ronald1 Posts: 11
    Your engine has an ignition coil setting on top of each sparkplug. The plug wires are small 12 volt wires that should last the life of the vehicle.
  • where is the fuel pump inertia switch located. 2004 crown victoria 4.6 engine.
  • hello,
    i bought a 99 merc GM with 59k last fall. since the beginning every once in a while it would have trouble starting. starter was fine ,it would sound weak upon starting like the gas isnt getting in there properly. after a few months on several occasions it would not wanna start, i would have to turn the key a second time and hold it for it to finally start. i heard it might be the fuel pressure regulator but since the prob was intermitten, and she always started, i kept putting it off. today i jump in and take off and i feel it slightly bucking and hesitating and after about 15 minutes the check engine light came on. i turned around and headed for autozone to get a read on the code and they tell me its a misfire. in my haste i didnt realize to ask the guy which cylinder was giveing ther misfire code, if any at all. is it possible for it to give a misfire code without specifying a cylinder and if so could that be related to the hard start issue i have been experiencing? where should i start first? paying back the irs has left me with little in the bank so im tryin to figure out the smartest and most economical way to go about this so any help would be greatly appreciated... thank you

    oh btw, she has almost 63 k on her now and last month i changed the oil/filter, fuel filter & air filter, if that helps at all
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Assuming the plug wires are original and almost 10 years old, bite the bullet and replace ALL of them. They are like shoe laces. Miles on them is not as detrimental as age. The plugs should last another 40K.
  • maytag87maytag87 Posts: 37
    Good evening folks,

    I have a 92 MGM that has a rotted oil pan, and requires replacement to remain operational. I know to perform this replacement, we will need to lift the motor. Is there a set of step by step instructions for this replacement available online? I have a new oil pan and gasket, and big engine hoist, and we took the hood off tonight, so we are ready to go. I expect we need to drop the exhaust, disconnect all coolant lines, and scads of other items. Having some detailed instructions would be great though, and we do not have a service manual. Can anyone point me in the direction of an online resource?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,360
    1. Disconnect ground and positive battery cables.
    2. Remove air inlet tube and drain cooling system. Remove cooling fan and shroud.
    3. Relieve fuel system pressure as described under MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES/FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELIEF. Disconnect fuel lines.
    4. Remove upper radiator hose, wiper module and support bracket.
    5. Discharge A/C system, then disconnect A/C compressor outlet hose. Remove bolt securing hose assembly to RH coil bracket.
    6. Remove engine electrical harness 42-pin connector from bracket on brake vacuum booster.
    7. Disconnect engine electrical connector, then disconnect transmission harness electrical connector.
    8. Disconnect throttle valve cable at throttle body.
    9. Disconnect heater outlet hose.
    10. Remove RH cylinder head ground strap attaching nut, then remove upper stud and lower bolt securing heater hose to cylinder head.
    11. Remove blower motor resistor, then the RH engine mount to lower engine bracket attaching bolt.
    12. Disconnect exhaust system from manifolds.
    13. Lower exhaust and secure to crossmember with wire.
    14. Position a suitable jack and block of wood below oil pan, rearward of drain plug.
    15. Raise engine approximately four inches, then insert two wood blocks, approximately 2.5-2.75 inches thick, under each engine mount.
    16. Lower engine onto wood blocks and remove jack from below oil pan.
    17. Loosen 16 retaining bolts and remove oil pan. It may be necessary to loosen, without removing, the two nuts on rear transmission mount and raise extension housing of transmission slightly to remove oil pan.
    18. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.

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  • maytag87maytag87 Posts: 37
    Thanks!!! On the motor mount step, we are having trouble finding the appropriate socket for the through bolts. Are they hex or something? Would anyone know the size? Once we get those two bolts out, the motor should lift up!

  • maytag87maytag87 Posts: 37
    Good evening folks,

    Still working on this 92 MGM oil pan swap. Motor mount bolts were 13 mm and we used a flex socket to get to them. We have the motor up on wood blocks over the motor mounts and the trans jacked up a bit. The oil plan is detached but we cannot extract it as the bell housing of the trans is in the way. We would like to avoid removing the trans. Should we pull the oil pan out the front? We may be able to get the motor a touch higher if we remove the wiper motor, but we dont think it will buy us enough clearance. Is this a neccessary step? Any more tips?

  • What are the best spark plugs to put in my 2004 P-71 Crown victoria Cop Car ???

    It has 126 thousand on it,,Runs like a top but I don't know if they have ever been replaced???

    Winter is coming so I would like to get them replaced as soon as possible...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,360
    Use AWSF-32P

    gap is 1.32-1.42 mm (0.052-0.056 in)

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  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Replace the wires as well as the plugs.
  • would that work on a 96 grand marquis Ls ?
    I just bought it and I don't know if I should Tune it up before winter.
    can I do it my self, I have tools to do the job.

  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    You bought a very nice motor car, but if it isn't broke, don't fix it.

    The seller probably did the necessary to have it run very well so as to market it.
  • AWSF-32P are no longer used. Ford is notorious for changing plugs. The plug was replaced with SP493. You would find that out when purchasing the plugs because the auto parts store would let you know that the AWSF was replaced.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,360
    Okay thanks for the update marty! I presume the parts books are updated.

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  • That's how I found out that the plugs were changed. It's best to tell the auto parts store the year and model of your car and that you want the platinum~Motorcraft plugs, they will tell you what the plug requirement is or call the Ford dealership. This forum is so so when it comes to specs. You were already given outdated info. The plugs in question fit my "99" GM but I don't know what the spec is for your year. "What's the best plug" to use relies on an opinion answer so I use what the manufacturer recommends. On my car the plugs are good for 100k.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,360
    The info came right out of Alldata, which mechanics use but when I look at the Motorcraft site, that number has been superceded.

    Motorcraft shows a variety of plugs for that engine actually, depending on what type you want and also depending on something called a "W engine code" which I don't know about. For that code they list a very similar number to the one from Alldata---AGSF32PM

    SP493 seems to be a platinum plug for the Non W code engines.

    Ford changes their plug numbers so often that by the time he reads this, there will be a new # :P

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  • My 01 MGM started missing at 94K miles and I installed the Bosch double platinum plugs I bought at Walmart. That was 22K miles ago and it has been running great ever since then.
  • My local dealer has an '08 CV with the commercial pkg. for sale. It's a bare bones car but seems to have all the essentials, which is all I need. Has the heavy duty package which inludes HD shocks, suspension (springs?), stabilizer bar, etc. Has the 2.73 rear axle & conventional engine. Anybody with any experience with one of these have an opinion? Thanks.

  • The 8th digit on the VIN designates the engine code. If it's a "F" them the motor is a 5.0L OHV V8 if it's a "W" then it's a 4.6L OHC V8. I can only repeat what the dealer told me. My 4.6 L engine takes the SP493 spark plug. The local auto parts store checked their computer for AGSF-32P and it cross referenced it to the SP493. The difference between the plugs has something to do with a full thread vs. a half thread. I didn't get into it with the dealer about the thread size. To add more to the confusion, my owners manual lists AWSF32P. That's why I stick to what the Ford dealer told me. If the person that has the cop car wants to know what plug to use, I recommend he contact the Ford dealership and go from there.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    The specs indicate a car that will corner like a locomotive while feeling tiny bumps & crack lines in the road. It will be slower on the take off, but higher in the gas mileage. Keep it out of mountainous territory.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,360
    sounds like your basic NY taxicab. I'd sit on a pillow if I were you, and don't expect to win any drag races.

    On the positive side, might be a comfy enough smooth-road, straight-line, long distance commuter.

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  • Is 2.73 the standard CV/GM ratio? Am interested in good economy, not speed. Thanks.

  • The 2.73 the standard ratio on the CV/GM unless you get the HPP (Handling and Performance Package). I have a 2001 GM LS with the 2.73 and it is plenty adequate. The only other mod I have is a K&N air filter, which has been on for 115K miles and I routinely get 27-29 MPG on the highway. It has been a wonderful car and amazingly still has the original battery, which will be 8 years old next March.
  • What is the method you use to check the miles per gallon you are getting?
  • I have used both the trip computer and actual gas used at fill-up. I have found the car trip computer to be quite accurate. In town driving is in the 17-20 MPG range.
This discussion has been closed.