Performed my first oil change on my 2000 Intrigue (3.5). Pretty uneventful with all the information the board (minus the full oil filter canister falling out of my hand).
Drain Plug - Fram Sure Drain system (SD-4). I'll let you know how that works. If it weren't for the black plastic shield along the front, you could probably drain the oil without lifting the vehicle.
Filter wrench - Rite Fit A258 - 74 mm/15 flutes (purchased at Pep Boys). Perfect fit for the canister. Almost too perfect as I needed a screwdriver to pry it off the canister. AmPro 74/76 mm/15 flutes or Oil wrench "A" (forget the brand name but sold at AutoZone) will work as well as long as the canister was not overtightened like mine was.
Oil filter - Purolator 8765. Fram sells this filter for $9 while everyone else is $5 or less (purolator, AC Delco).
Engine Oil - I used Walmart oil for High Mileage vehicle hoping the thicker oil will help with the "burning". Also did the engine flush prior to changing. Figured no harm and it only cost $3.50 for the bottle.
Overall very easy. Will be even easier the next time now that I have all the tools and no where everything is.
I asked this question awhile ago, but guess everyone thought I might be kidding. So, here's the deal: I have a dog who sheds a lot and various bugs have died in the back window of my Intrigue (these two things ARE related...). Over the past few yrs, dog hair and bug parts (gross) have accumulated in the rear shelf IN FRONT of the rear brake light. Now, I am talking inside the car...rear window. So if you look in my car's rear window, you can see dog hair and...those nasty bug parts. I finally decided to use a damp rag, unfolded, and run it flat against the window in front of the brake light and try to pick up some of the crud by moving the rag from side to side. Are you still with me here? Ok. Well, it didn't work, but I DID succeed in loosening the felt-like fabric from around the brake light. So now it looks worse. How the heck do you clean that w/o dismantling the whole back shelf/seat??? I know this is boring compared to the good stuff like trouble codes, bad trannies, etc, but are there any takers on this one??
I know what you mean about trying to clean the back window out. I have tried but can never figure it out. So I leave it. I will give it a look tomorrow to see. I have the factory spoiler but I still have the back brake light.
Thanks for the suggestion Deke! I will check it out...there has to be a way to replace the bulb without taking apart the whole backseat and rear shelf! I am betting that lubricating the steering (my next project) will be easier than this one though Di
I know the 3.5 can burn oil. My 00 GLS, approaching 80k has started to need 1-2 additional quarts between 3k oil changes which is new. Any body else have similar consumption???
My 99 GL has been using at least 2 quarts between 3K oil changes since about 35,000 miles (now @ 97,000). Kept taking it back to the dealer to have them document and check the oil until the extended warranty ran out (75K). The mechanics always gave me a funny look, as if to say, yeah, it's crazy, but that's the way it is and we can't say anymore. The dealership people just said that's normal for the engine. What they didn't say was what I recently read on this forum...something about the fact that the aluminum engine is the cause (don't know if this is the only reason, but it did make sense). The bad part of the oil consumption problem was that I had no idea I needed to check the oil on my relatively new, low mileage vehicle between oil changes (more than just once!!)... could have caused huge damage...I learned to pay attention to all those warning lights!!!
I have a 99 GLS with 156k miles, oil usage started at 70k. Dealer said that was from carbon build up in the engine on some cars. I had oil changes every 2 months at 4k miles. Had top engine cleaner done at 75k which improved it to a quart at 2800 miles, but oil use progressed and top engine cleaner at 120k gave no improvement. I need to add 2.5-3 quarts every 3000 miles. I've learned to live with it. Unfortunately, you can maintain a car properly and still have problems.
Wow is all I can say. I have been having this same problem now for a few years. I have a 99 GLS. I have just learned to live with it as well. I am looking at foreign cars now because I have spent mucho dinero on this vehicle. It is in the shop now because it seems to be misfiring. Perhaps it is the spark plugs but to be honest I just don't know anymore. I have had the alternator, the battery (2X), & the starter replaced. Now, the check engine light, the anti-lock brake light, and the traction control light is on and I'm told it is the right wheel sensor. Another $400-$500 worth of repairs. I used to really like this car, but now, I can't wait to get rid of it. Thanks for letting me vent.
Needed to replace my wiper blades recently, thought I'd pass along some info.
The OEM blades are the typical black-metal frame style. They worked OK except that sometimes at highway speeds they seemed to lift occasionally and were an absolute disaster in winter. The frames froze with ice and that meant the blades wouldn't flex, which in turn meant that they didn't contact the windshield. Not good.
Last year I replaced the OEMs with a set of aftermarket Canadian Tire "Aerofoil" blades. These looked like a wing and instead of the multi-piece metal frame they had the blade mounted to a continuous length of springlike metal. These did well in winter, but the blades themselves were absolute crap and were useless after about 9 months.
Yesterday I went back to my dealer and found a sympathetic parts guy. I asked him if the new OEM style blades GM is now using on the W-body would work on my Intrigue. He didn't know, but went out back and came back with the 3 choices he had to offer: the original Intrigue OEM metal frame type, the new GM OEM type as used on the LaCrosse and Impala, among others, and an AC=Delco replacement type, which I immediately dismissed as ugly and clunky.
The new GM OEM blade looks something like the Aerofoil blades I had, except the exterior is all rubber, almost like a winter blade, but with a raised lip on the trailing edge. A very clean look. He let me open one up and try it for fit, and it fit perfectly, so I bought a pair. They look and work great. Different part #s for either side: 10350075 and 15146561. Paid $17.96 Cdn each.
I'm on the second pair of Pylon wiper blades which I bought on sale for a mere $2.00 each one and they lasted 2 years and surprisingly worked well. You don't have to be so picky as long as the blade width is the same as the OEM and the wiper arm and spring are in good condition. I found the metal pivot point on the OEM blade was rusty and this was affecting the contact with the windshield. Up to that point I had always replaced the refills in the past and never the whole blade.
Not sure where you are but $2 wiper blades are nonexistent here. You used to be able to purchase the refills but I haven't seen those in years. Some of the new style blades don't seem to be made to be refilled.
I agree..I went back to OEM (Delco?) blades 2+ years ago and never looked back. They fit the best and have lasted! I think I will get new ones next month before the snow flies.
They are a little more than other brands (I think I paid about what you paid ~C$18), but it's worth it.
I have a 2002 Intrgiue with 85,000 miles and it has just started to make a tinny/whinning/vibrating kind of sound when I first start to press on the gas at pretty much any speed. If I keep the gas pressed down only a little bit I can have the sound conitnue but it goes away when I accelerate a little more heavily. The transmission shifts great and everything elese runs great (except for a quart of oil every 1,000 miles). Any ideas?
The 3.5 engine requires a less than usual oil and filter, at least to the myriad of oil change stores. I've had my share of having to ask to have the oil flushed because 5W30 wasn't used or to have to wait because the store didn't have the filter in stock.
I started to buy the oil and filter to take to the store for a change, but now I'm feeling ripped of, for I get a discount of a measly couple of bucks, if any.
I'm just back from one such place, where I was returned a car with oily palm prints everywhere. :mad:
Changing the oil myself is getting more and more tempting, but the space under the car is quite restrict. How do those who change it themselves do? Any tips?
I just did mine myself for the first time. You can jack up the car from the front, and use jackstands. The filter cover can be removed using an oil filter wrench (I had a cap-style wrench from a 1986 pontiac 6000 2.8V6 that fits perfectly) and unscrewing it. You can do the filter first: remove/replace it, replace the cover. Then do the drain plug, which faces you as look from the front of the car. Being long-armed and 6'6", I think I can reach everything without jacking up the car off the ground. I guess I'll find out in a few months. You can get the filter at Autozone, which sells the STP brand.
Make sure the oil is somewhat hot so that it drains well. My 2001 is a 6.5 quart fill. I added 6 qts, and then topped off to fill it up.
My previous car was a 1997 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L V6, and its filter was accessible from above the engine under the hood, and I could reach the drain plug without jacking up the car. That was an easy change.
I have a oil change collection pan to collect it (check any auto parts store, and I take the oil to the Advance Auto Parts store (formerly Discount Auto) where they have a oil recycler container to pour the oil into.
I just started chanign my oil back in July. Pretty easy. I use ramps. You can get the Puralator filter at Advance Auto parts for $4. I use Walmart 5W-30 oil ($7.28 for 5 quarts bottle). Remember you need 5.5 quarts. You may as well get an extra quart to add in about 1500 miles.
I think my engine is using about 2 qts between oil changes, the first quart i used was 10w-30, the second I added was 5w-30 (without an oil change between adding the two) Was this wrong? :confuse:
I have a 2000.Wondered the same thing. Asked around and was told that it is the make of the car. Just keep a check on your oil. Mine has done this for along as I have had it 8 years.
1999 with 170k miles been adding since 70k 2.5 to 3qts oil every 3k 10w30. Engine runs great I don't want to switch to a heavier oil. By the way the tranny just went without any warning.
No problem. A quart every 1,000 miles? You could keep doing that for a long, long time yet.
The only "danger" is forgetting to add it on long trips, etc. or presuming that consumption rates are going to be the same in summer, winter, going to the mountains, in hot climates, etc.
For a car like yours, I'd certainly check the oil every second fill up.
I keep a 5 quart jug of Walmart 5W-30 in the trunk at all times to keep the oil full. I average about 1.5-2 quarts per 3000k miles. I normally change my oil every 7500 miles since my commute is 70 miles (round trip). I have 143k miles, my last two tanks of gas were 29 mpg and 27 mpg. I don't want anyone touching the engine.
Interesting thing is my old commute was 45 miles (each way), 95% interstate highway. I woudl average 26-27 mpg. Of course i was traveling about 70-80 mph. My current commute is 35 miles each way and I travel two lane roads the entire way, averaging 45-60 mph. I get better slightly better gas mileage. I also noticed the rpms are down around 1500-1700 instead of 2200. I guess excessive speed does hurt gas mileage.
Check oil light goes on when about a quart low. I keep 2qts of oil in the trunk. Been doing this for 100,000 miles. And you are right oil usage varies with temp, type of driving and who knows what else. I'm currently working on the mathematical equation E(ngine oil)=m(otor)c(onsumption)2.
HI, I JUST CHANGED MY TRANSMISSION MOUNT AND IT WENT PRETTY EASY! CHECK OUT THE GUIDE I PUT UP HERE ON THE EDMUNDS CAR SITE FOR MY FELLOW OLDS INTRIGUES OWNERS!!! :P
MY 01 INTRIGUE BEING FIXED SLOWLY BUT SURELY , AND NOW SOMETHING ELSE IS ACTING UP. THE A/C LIGHT WOULD COME ON & OFF BY ITSELF AND SUDDENLY YESTERDAY IT WOULD NOT GET COLD. THE NEXT DAY TURNED ON A/C AND SEEMS THE CLUTCH ON COMPRESSOR SQUEALS AND WILL NOT COME ON, STALLING THE ENGINE. aNYONE CHANGE THE A/C COMPRESSOR? IS IT THE COMPRESSOR? aLSO CONSTANT VIBRATION IN DRIVE WHILE STILL DRIVING ME CRAZY...i CHANGED THE WHEEL BEARINGS, TRANNY MOUNT, AND STILL VIBRATING, COULD IT BE IN STEERING COLUMN TO BE CAUSE? i AM ORDERING STRUTS NEXT BUT REALLY DRIVING ME BANANAS!!!!!
There was a TSB for vibrations in the steering column, commonly referred as the ISS (Intermediate steering shaft). Initially Oldsmobile was replacing the shaft but of course you know what happens when you replace a defective part with the same designed part....it also will become defective. Now it is recommended to grease the shaft. GM instructs that you have to physically remove the ISS from the car before greasing it which involves a lift and special equipment. A couple of years ago someone posted directions on how to grease the ISS from inside your car. I did this almost 3 years ago and noticed immediate improvements in driving the car. If you can't find it searching this forum (Use ISS in the search box), I may be able to give you the directions.
It's a simple and cheap ($3.50 for the can of grease).
i pulled back the rubber and sprayed the section but not sure if done right... is there someone who has done it and provided pictures? let me know thanks!!!! :confuse:
It very hard to see the actual shaft. Of course with me being an XL, damn near impossible. I went by feel. I could feel the connection of the steering wheel to the intermediate shaft. I held the rubber sheath down with one hand and positioned the spray can with the other (I used the straw on the nozzle). I sprayed about a 1/4 of the can into the connection. Like I mentioned earlier, I felt an immediate improvement.
My '99 Intrigue has 97,000 miles on it and has the original serpentine belt, hoses, and struts on it. Should these items be replaced due to age/mileage or is there some way for me to determine IF they need to be replaced? Thanks
All depends on what u can spend, I have a 2001 instrigue and the recomended for the intrigue is double platinum NGK,(if originals are still in car you will see them when you pull them out) same as the originals in car, but on mine i upgraded to the NGK tridium, which are a lil more expensive but not by much. Try going online to several companies and check prices out before buying them. I bought them for about 6 or 7 bucks each at a great deal online. Hey, try this out: (copy & paste)
www.ngk.com , www.autopartswarehouse.com , www.autopartsgiant.com , match prices & then order from parts giant or warehouse at least price, w/free shipping and price match!!!! thats how i got my deal.... :shades:
Comments
Drain Plug - Fram Sure Drain system (SD-4). I'll let you know how that works. If it weren't for the black plastic shield along the front, you could probably drain the oil without lifting the vehicle.
Filter wrench - Rite Fit A258 - 74 mm/15 flutes (purchased at Pep Boys). Perfect fit for the canister. Almost too perfect as I needed a screwdriver to pry it off the canister. AmPro 74/76 mm/15 flutes or Oil wrench "A" (forget the brand name but sold at AutoZone) will work as well as long as the canister was not overtightened like mine was.
Oil filter - Purolator 8765. Fram sells this filter for $9 while everyone else is $5 or less (purolator, AC Delco).
Engine Oil - I used Walmart oil for High Mileage vehicle hoping the thicker oil will help with the "burning". Also did the engine flush prior to changing. Figured no harm and it only cost $3.50 for the bottle.
Overall very easy. Will be even easier the next time now that I have all the tools and no where everything is.
So, here's the deal: I have a dog who sheds a lot and various bugs have died in the back window of my Intrigue (these two things ARE related...). Over the past few yrs, dog hair and bug parts (gross) have accumulated in the rear shelf IN FRONT of the rear brake light. Now, I am talking inside the car...rear window. So if you look in my car's rear window, you can see dog hair and...those nasty bug parts.
I finally decided to use a damp rag, unfolded, and run it flat against the window in front of the brake light and try to pick up some of the crud by moving the rag from side to side.
Are you still with me here? Ok. Well, it didn't work, but I DID succeed in loosening the felt-like fabric from around the brake light. So now it looks worse. How the heck do you clean that w/o dismantling the whole back shelf/seat???
I know this is boring compared to the good stuff like trouble codes, bad trannies, etc, but are there any takers on this one??
My old 'Trig had the factory spoiler, so no window-mounted stop light on mine - but those LEDs were expensive!
Deke
Di
Almost all Accords and Camrys have both - seems like the spoilers were not offered as factory-installed pieces.
Deke
Kept taking it back to the dealer to have them document and check the oil until the extended warranty ran out (75K). The mechanics always gave me a funny look, as if to say, yeah, it's crazy, but that's the way it is and we can't say anymore. The dealership people just said that's normal for the engine. What they didn't say was what I recently read on this forum...something about the fact that the aluminum engine is the cause (don't know if this is the only reason, but it did make sense).
The bad part of the oil consumption problem was that I had no idea I needed to check the oil on my relatively new, low mileage vehicle between oil changes (more than just once!!)... could have caused huge damage...I learned to pay attention to all those warning lights!!!
The OEM blades are the typical black-metal frame style. They worked OK except that sometimes at highway speeds they seemed to lift occasionally and were an absolute disaster in winter. The frames froze with ice and that meant the blades wouldn't flex, which in turn meant that they didn't contact the windshield. Not good.
Last year I replaced the OEMs with a set of aftermarket Canadian Tire "Aerofoil" blades. These looked like a wing and instead of the multi-piece metal frame they had the blade mounted to a continuous length of springlike metal. These did well in winter, but the blades themselves were absolute crap and were useless after about 9 months.
Yesterday I went back to my dealer and found a sympathetic parts guy. I asked him if the new OEM style blades GM is now using on the W-body would work on my Intrigue. He didn't know, but went out back and came back with the 3 choices he had to offer: the original Intrigue OEM metal frame type, the new GM OEM type as used on the LaCrosse and Impala, among others, and an AC=Delco replacement type, which I immediately dismissed as ugly and clunky.
The new GM OEM blade looks something like the Aerofoil blades I had, except the exterior is all rubber, almost like a winter blade, but with a raised lip on the trailing edge. A very clean look. He let me open one up and try it for fit, and it fit perfectly, so I bought a pair. They look and work great. Different part #s for either side: 10350075 and 15146561. Paid $17.96 Cdn each.
Hope this helps someone.
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
They are a little more than other brands (I think I paid about what you paid ~C$18), but it's worth it.
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
DL
I started to buy the oil and filter to take to the store for a change, but now I'm feeling ripped of, for I get a discount of a measly couple of bucks, if any.
I'm just back from one such place, where I was returned a car with oily palm prints everywhere. :mad:
Changing the oil myself is getting more and more tempting, but the space under the car is quite restrict. How do those who change it themselves do? Any tips?
TIA
Make sure the oil is somewhat hot so that it drains well. My 2001 is a 6.5 quart fill. I added 6 qts, and then topped off to fill it up.
My previous car was a 1997 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L V6, and its filter was accessible from above the engine under the hood, and I could reach the drain plug without jacking up the car. That was an easy change.
How do you collect the oil, what kind of recipient do you use? How about its disposal?
TIA
How long do you turn the engine on for to get the oil warm enough to drain easily yet without burning your hand?
TIA
The only "danger" is forgetting to add it on long trips, etc. or presuming that consumption rates are going to be the same in summer, winter, going to the mountains, in hot climates, etc.
For a car like yours, I'd certainly check the oil every second fill up.
Interesting thing is my old commute was 45 miles (each way), 95% interstate highway. I woudl average 26-27 mpg. Of course i was traveling about 70-80 mph. My current commute is 35 miles each way and I travel two lane roads the entire way, averaging 45-60 mph. I get better slightly better gas mileage. I also noticed the rpms are down around 1500-1700 instead of 2200. I guess excessive speed does hurt gas mileage.
dieselissy's guide is here:
http://www.carspace.com/guides/
Visiting Host
2000 up ---it is on top of the gas tank.
I think the engine type dictates location
It's a simple and cheap ($3.50 for the can of grease).
:shades:
Thanks
www.ngk.com , www.autopartswarehouse.com , www.autopartsgiant.com , match prices & then order from parts giant or warehouse at least price, w/free shipping and price match!!!! thats how i got my deal.... :shades: