Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Have you purchased a new car in the last year and had it delivered to your home/office from a dealership? If so, a reporter would like to talk to you about it. Please reach out to [email protected] by end of day Sunday, December 9, and the Edmunds PR team may connect you with the journalist.
If you experience loading issues with the login/register form, please completely disable ad blocker or use an incognito or in-private window to log in.

Mazda MPV Starting/Stalling Problems



  • What ever came of this issue? Did you replace all coil packs and it start working fine or was it something else? I have the exact same issue.
  • Yes, in all instances I had to get each coil replaced and it fixes the problem. I asked the Mazda tech and they said this is a common problem. Which stinks because I still have 3 more coils to go. So the next coil to go (3, 4, or 5) will run me another $250 (parts/labor). I also found out that the part is cheaper at a Mazda dealer than a Ford dealer.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,505
    Coils #4 and #5 are in the front, towards the radiator, that's an easy 5 minute fix. The coils in the back are the ones that will cost a lot, due to having to take the upper manifold off, best to replace the ones in the back at the same time.
  • did you change the plugs and wires yourself. It looks like it would be tough job. what is the order for part removal? what about the dhoc.
  • The dhoc looks like it could make changing the spark plugs and wires a tough job. can anyone tell me the order of removal of parts to change the plugs and wires?
  • I have a 1994 mazda mpv and i'm having the same type problem. I've replace fuel pump + filter + spark plugs + igniter what else to do
  • stevef16stevef16 Posts: 1
    I just had what sounds like the exact same problem with my 2002 MPV. Hopefully tilde05 is back on the road by now, but in case anyone else has the same problem, here's what happened to me. Being a "fix-it" kind of a guy, tried to fix it myself first. The when the idle went high, I first replaced the idle air control valve ($92), no difference. I then replaced the MAF sensor ($209 from the dealer, the only one that would fit), no difference. I then replaced the throttle position sensor ($34), no difference. All the while, no codes were set. I then gave up and took it to a repair shop. They found that the "coolant temperature sensor" was bad, replaced it ($180 total), and now the van runs like new. Hope this helps someone. Maybe next time I'll just bring it to the shop right off.
  • nic39nic39 Posts: 1
    Hi, I've got an '03 with 138,000 clicks. So far, it's been extremely reliable and we've had no real problems. Now it "shudders' when I'm at a red light and it feels like it's going to stall out. Also acts the same going up a hill. Just had the coolant thermostat and seal replaced, as well as a "platinum plug" (#2 I believe) and the EGR valve gasket replaced because that's what the diagnostic check said to fix. Driving today the engine light came on (just got it back from the shop last week), and engine light flashed every time I had to go up a hill, then went back to steady.
    Any ideas?
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    Possibly a coil, which is on each plug. The blinking CEL indicates a engine misfire in 1 or more cylinders, when it is just on steady, it indicates an emission related code, which could be just a result of the misfire.

    Hard to say which coil is bad, could be more than 1. They aren't cheap to replace at the dealer, not terribly hard to DIY if you search for instructions.

  • I bought a 1991 mpv with 140k miles on it. ran fine for about a week even took it on a 200 mile round trip with no issues. now will crank but not fire wo't roll start and when i try it All the indicator lights on the dash flash randomly and the engine sounds like it is running but the odometer is erratic to 1500 - 0 and back.
    I am afraid of an ECU problem as I do not have alot of money to put into this car

    any ideas of what i can look to fix to get er back to running and starting again? :sick:
  • Mechanic has just replaced all the sparkplug and no. 2 coil. he mentioned that the tester is indicating that no2 coil is defective, so he replaced it, however the problem is still there, he then told me two days later that I have to replace all the coil. I felt that this mechanic is guessing but I don't want to tell him directly... so I need any advise or assistance otherwise I will be spending more than 1, 000.00 ( non refundable) to replace all the coil as per his diagnosis. any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

    Million Thanks.
  • You can buy a 6 pack of MPV coils on ebay for between $120-185 shipped and you should shop around with differnt mechanics to see how much they charge for the labor, I know the back 3 can be tricky, you could also doing it yourself there is a great article on replacing them on the Mazda MPV forum.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,505
    he then told me two days later that I have to replace all the coil.

    It would be a miracle for all 6 coils to fail at the same time. No, your mechanic is not guessing. He is incompetent. Take your MPV somewhere else.

    If he did replace #2 coil, he should have asked you if you wanted #1 and #3 replaced since they are in the back of engine as well... would have saved you a lot in labor.
  • Thanks for your info. Now I'm thinking that this mechanic is just trying to reap me off. :mad: I tried to ask him for my old parts and he mentioned that he misplace them. I'm sure that he only replace cylinders in the front.. The back three can be tricky? what does that mean? im taking my car to another mechanic to take a look at it, or do it myself to ensure that im not gonna be reap off.. any suggestions?

    Thanks again
  • Thanks alot. you saved me from being reap off.. I would greatly appreciated if someone can show me the easiest way to remove and replace those coil at the firewall area.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,505
    There are step by step directions, with photos, on how to replace the back coils at the "". A lot of people at the site say it is fairly easy.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,505
    The back three can be tricky?

    With the back 3 coils (#'s 1-3) you have to take off the intake manifold to get to them... takes about an hour and a half I believe.
  • buzzkbuzzk Posts: 15
    Our 2004 MPV recently has the engine occassionally just quit - usually when stopping, especially suddenly, but at least twice it happenned at hiway speeds when on cruise at 60+... both of those times at the same spot in the road, where the hiway dips down into a sort of mini-vally, then comes back up a short hill. It dies abt where the road levels out again. All panel lights come on, but it starts quickly & easily & runs flawlessly [til next time] after that. panel lights go out instantly & the code reader only once had a pending code abt the transmission range selector switch, which cleared w/next run & at all other times [abt a dozen in the last couple months] there is no code at all, pending or otherwise. I've checked a lot of obvious stuff & found nothing wrong; I think it's probably a bad ignition switch.. advice? anybody had this problem?

    thx, BK
  • keng5keng5 Posts: 1
    Had the same problem. Cleaned idle air solenide mounted on top of throttle body. Took it off, cleaned it with gumout. The little piston needs to close and it gets carbon in it. Where the idle air control bolts on to the manifold the passage was carboned. Sprayed a little gum out and then inserted a small brush to clean carbon. Also cleaned throttle body. Inside the throttle body there's a plate that opens and closes when you open the throttle. It was all carboned. So far so good!!
  • Well it's now 97K and so far it has not re-occurred. fingers crossed.
  • Why is it that these coils seem to go out all the time? I've read here on these blogs and postings on the electrical forum and I see that a lot of you folks have had a lot of problems with them. I posted a story on the electrical issue blog regarding a friend from church who has an 04' MPV and she said she has had to replace them frequently and sometimes the SAME ONES! This is insanity to me! What do the powers that be at Mazda have to say about this? This lady went to her mom's home in NC for the Thanksgiving holiday, and on the way there had a problem where the thing felt like it was going to shut down any minute. The 3 hour trip took her nearly 5 hours and she took it to a local garage there for $400 bucks worth of work, but she also said that she spent nearly that much here locally just a few months ago. She called me this morning and told me that the van was acting up again and had very little power when she hit the gas and the check engine light came on again. Are these things possessed?? Now I read on here and in the other blog that these coils are prone to fail when water gets on them, is that correct? I've offered to help this wonderful Godly lady, and I'd sure appreciate any advice you can give me on this. I'm gonna go to her home soon and scan her computer with my OBD2 within the next few days. Thanks and I hope you all have a wonder Holiday season!
  • buzzkbuzzk Posts: 15
    you might look at some of my other posts.. the coils that came from the factory on the 2004 MPV we love to drive, have a design that is simply idiotic; they have a built-in VENT that allows water/steam/etc, to get into the plug well & short out the spark; it is high voltage [like all spark systems] & is easily shorted. I got aftermarket, cheap, much plainer looking, black rubber coils from ebay BUT.. fit perfectly and NO VENT! - sealed the tops of the spark plug wells to keep out moisture & have had NO PROBLEMS w/coils since. BTW sealing moisture out of spark plug wells has been standard practice for DECADES. It does cost a lot to replace them due have to remove the intake manifold to get at the back 3. quite possibly garages are getting the old-style OEM vented coils but I easily got the better design from a regular ebay supplier. Abt 3 or 4 yrs ago they were abt $120.00 for a set of 6. Also I have removed, cleaned, dried & replaced the original coils [til I could get the new ones] & they worked for a while - so, did they REALLY replace your friends' coils?
    Good luck, BK
  • Thanks, Buzz, for the response. I appreciate the info on the aftermarket coils too, perhaps you could share with me exactly where you got them, and I can tell my friend about this. I haven't been able to look at her van yet, my back's been acting up, the weather here in Pa stinks, and so on! I have a lot of things I'd like to look at on this thing and these blogs are great in that they steer me in a good direction to look for trouble. You mention that the coils have a vent hole that lets water in and shorts out the plug. If my friend has vents in the coils, can I use RTV silicone to seal up those holes, at least temporarily? Is that what you use to seal these things, black RTV sealant perhaps? Thanks again for your answers! P.S.- I see that to access the rear coils, you have to remove the intake manifold, is this correct? And when this is done, do gaskets, if any, need to be replaced too?
  • buzzkbuzzk Posts: 15
    I just got on e-bay & searched for 2004 MPV coils & [as I recall] did a "buy it now" at quite a reasobnable price,. this was abt 50 or so K miles - now have >100K on it, so probably abt 2 to 3 yrs ago, +/- a bit. Yes you gotta take off the manifold for back coils; I bought gaskets just in case [not real costly from o'reilly or autozone, I recall], but w/care {& silicone rtv form-a-gasket] the originals may be re-usable. and, yes, like any ex-Navy ET-1, I cleaned up the [wet, very dirty] original coils & sealed the small vent w/silicone & it seeeeeemed to work fine, but.... I was untrusting so got the new ones any-way [& kept the modified originals for spares] - apparently they are just about identical to the coils for many fords that have the same engine. In response to other problems I replaced the throttle position sensor due itstalled at times of slowing down, [but NO codes..!] & that seemed to fix that issue... new water pump recently & have a verrrry small coolant leak to trace down now.. I think it's one of the overly-complex hose connections to the water pump...

    good luck
  • aa0526aa0526 Posts: 29
    I have a 2002 MPV ... about 130K miles.
    Last night - the van would crank - lights would be on full - but the engine would not fully start. I verified my batteries were OK by starting with all lights on ... thru a process of elimination - and this board - I was able to diagnose that I have a dirty IAC valve.

    I knew I had strong batteries since mine were only 2-3 years old - and my EGR valve was fairly new (once replaced as part of a recall, the other - on my own dime).
    I also have a new MAF sensor and new coolant PCU assembly. These were all replaced over the last two years - some as recent as 6 months ago.

    I took out the IAC valve - a simple 5-10 minute process with the right tools - and cleaned it with acetone (or better yet - use carb cleaner). It was sooty and had significant carbon buildup.
    Once clean and dry - I put it back on - and now, the van starts normally now.

    Thanks for all the previous tips!
  • My 2000 MPV is experiencing intermittent starting problems and I suspect that the immobilizer circuit is immediately cutting the ignition once the car starts or is not letting the van start at all. The dash light will either fail to come on for the self-test prior to start, or will come on and stay on; either case will not allow the van to run. Most of the time it runs fine, however, occaisionally I will get stuck somewhere and it can take up to 30 minutes to get started again. Normally the dash lights clear but there are times when the immobilizer light will remain illuminated (and the van runs normally).
    I would like any recommendations on troubleshooting. Both keys have been checked and work, so I suspect the van. I've made sure the steering wheel is properly seated, door locks are not stuck, gearshift is seated, etc. I do not know what fuses need to be checked for corrosion, etc. All appear to be good, just don't know which fuses work the immobilizer circuit. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rick
  • I think I am having the same problem with my MPV. After yours sat for a while would it start ok, then if you turned it off and tried to restart it would it not fully start. Also, there seems to be a gassy smell.
  • sramamur1sramamur1 Posts: 21

    We have noticed engine vibration when our 2003 MPV (158k kms or ~ 100k miles) is idling at traffic lights or at the parking lot. Vibration would get stronger with longer idling time and the whole van will be shaking.

    Took it to the local Canadian Tire store (we are from London, Ontario, Canada) and the techs could not read any codes from the van's computer. Either the van's computer is not working properly or the sensors are not sending out any fault codes.

    They replaced the spark plugs and did the engine flush, but the vibration is still there and the tech can feel it while driving. Now they think that the pulley (where timing belt is) is cracked and is going to replace the pulley and the sensor behind the pulley. They are not sure whether this will solve the problem.

    Because they cannot read the codes, they are guessing and changing parts they think causing the vibration problem. I did the engine tune up only last month and hence not sure what is the real cause of the vibration issue.

    Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks so much,

  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    I answered over at MPVClub and in another thread here on Edmunds.

  • My 2000 mazda MPV is having intermittent starting problem. it would not crank once i while, but sometimes If I hold the ignition key a little bit longer, it would start right away. I just replaced the starter,electronic ignition switch and also cleaned the spade female connector coming from harness assembly and still having intermittent starting problem. I also had my battery checked and they did not find any problem..
Sign In or Register to comment.