Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (up to 1996)
I just purchased a used windshield frame for my 88 Wrangler. The glass was bad but the frame was good. Removal was tough due to the glass being caulked in. Are all of the 88 Wrangler windshields caulked in? Would you advise me to take both the new frame and my old one with the good glass to a pro to switch them?
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Mike
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Mike
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newjack1, "Jeep Wrangler: Problems and Solutions" #343, 19 Jun 2006 2:31 pm
Check it out while waiting for responses in here.
Steve, Host
There must be something wrong with the dipstick, or maybe someone has altered the oil filtering system in some way, so that more oil is required to fill the system.
Over-filling too much is definitely NOT good for the engine, so be careful.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
tidester, host
thanks
Littleredjeep
Your coolant is either not circulating, or else, if it IS circulating, its heat is not being dissipated.
Possible causes for coolant not circulating would include:
1. Thermostat stuck closed
2. Water pump not working
3. Air pocket in the cooling system somewhere, preventing circulation
4. Radiator clogged
About the only possible cause for the heat in your coolant not being dissipated that I can think of would be that your radiator fan is not working. (Your coolant circulates through the jacket surrounding the cylinders in your engine block and absorbs the heat from the combustion of the gasoline vapor when the cylinders fire. The hot coolant is then supposed to circulate to the radiator, where the radiator fan is supposed to cool it back down, before it returns to the engine to once again take the heat away from the cylinders.)
There is another possibility for the heat not being dissipated by the radiator, and that would be due to mud covering the radiator fins. This would have an insulating effect and keep the water from cooling as the fan blows cool air across the fins.
Good luck.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
thanks
Lilredjeep :confuse:
I have a 2001 Wrangler Sport. She has been pretty much trouble free, except for things that have happened while I was off roading her.
She has seen many, many hours on the trails, and considering what she has been through, it is truly amazing how few things have "broken."
Hey, you should join us over at the "Jeep Wrangler" forum. That's where folks get together and discuss anything pertaining to Jeeps or Jeepin'. There are over 22,000 posts in there.
What's your first name?
Tom
What you say about being a woman is unfortunately true, so have a male friend make any phone calls. It should be possible to get an accurate quote over the phone, as removing and replacing a Jeep engine is pretty straightforward. There should be no hidden surprises, but expect to have to renew hoses, clips, odd nuts and bolts, and consider having a new clutch installed as well.
As for the t-case, you MAY be able to get away with using the same one, but you may want to consider something with a stronger rating to handle the power from the engine.
-Paul
But I'd check for basic fitment and see how the motor mounts would mate up.
-Paul
I hope someone can help me. This is very urgent. I have purchased a new theromostat housing unit for my Jeep Wrangler 1989 2.5 4cl. However it does not have the plug that I require (it didnt come with it) I am in the UK and the company I bought it from are not being very helpful they said that they think the part is no longer available. Please see pictures below and advise where I could buy this plug? I need to sell my Jeep asap as I am no longer permitted to park it where it is and without the plug it does not start.
Thank you so much for your help.
You might find what you need at the hardware store.
Brass plugs are usually a good choice for this as they are less likely to be over tightened.
Use teflon tape on the threads and you should be OK.
Sounds like the supplier is not willing to take a little time to help a guy out. Jerks.
When you're hands on with the vehicle it's really pretty basic stuff to analyze this sort of thing, especially on older carb/distributor equipped engines.
I have no idea what to do, hoping someone can help me out, put way too much money and time into it for it to be acting up again...
If you're lucky it's a clutch problem, on the other hand it could easily be a transmission issue.
Don't be tempted to use polyurethane rather than rubber. Poly is lasts longer, but is harder and transmits a lot of vibration.
Here's a pic of what you need. The big square one is the transmission mount. You can buy them HERE for $40.
I can't disagree with that, unfortunately.
It certainly could be a problem with the choke. A strong smell of gas usually indicates a fuel problem. Your situation is slightly complicated by the fact that the engine hasn't run properly since the rebuild. It's a little easier when everything was running fine until a certain point. You know that everything was ok and only a limited number of things could have changed. In your case, there's more that could be wrong as the engine has never run properly.
However, it really shouldn't that hard to diagnose your problem, but it does need to be a 'hands on' situation.
P.S. It's not a car! :shades:
I wouldn't be so sure about that. Looking over the Forums, you'll see many examples of frustrated owners and calls for invoking Lemon Laws - for all kinds of vehicles. Check out Customer Service: The good, the bad and the ugly!.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Good grief, cars were being hooked up to diagnostic machines long before they had on-board computers! I guess you need to find either a shop that's comfortable with older vehicles, or an older tech who understands the basics of an internal combustion engine.
Anyone who tells you that the carb is flooding because it's not getting enough gas is either treating you like an idiot, or revealing the same about himself.
For the record, the fuel pump pressure can be checked with a $10 gauge, and the flow can be measured with a graduated beaker from the dollar store. If the pump is found to be out of specification, the fuel filter should be changed before replacing the pump as (i), a blocked filter can cause the same symptoms, and (ii), if the pump does require replacement it would be silly to leave an old filter in the system.
Thanks!
To answer your question, here a fuzzy pic showing your level/fill plug #16 and washer #17. The drain plug and washer appear to be #21 and #20. The view shows the passenger side, with the rear of the transmission towards the left.
Here's the LINK if the pic doesn't show.