Toyota Land Cruiser

mobiweld

90,000 timing belt and new water-pump at the same time. It will likely be leaking.

 

Scott

perk22

Were going to meet Saturday to hopefully finalize the deal at a Toyota dealership over an inspection. I test drove it today.

 

Pros...it is absolutely beautiful. Original owner with all the records, who seems to have taken good care of it. The engine ran smooth and sounded quiet and solid. No pulling when braking. New tires.

Cons...Brakes seemed soft. A uniform film of oil is present underneath the engine. He says he was not aware of any leaks, and there did not appear to be any spots in the driveway where he parked it, but my eyes were not deceiving me, a film of oil was covering much of the bottom surfaces of the engine. The oil barely registered on the tip of the dipstick, after a 20 minute test drive(does this automatically suggest engine damage, and what sort of $$$ have owners out there spent on fixing oil leaks). The steering knuckles (which I assume are the big round ball joint looking things at the end of the axle where the wheels are attached) are covered by a thick layer of caked on dirt and grease. So I am expecting it to need a front axle service, but does the thickly caked layer of grease and dirt also indicate that internal components could be damaged or worn beyond serviceable specs, and if so does that mean it will cost me even more than the $1500 forecasted for a standard front axle service??

 

The vehicle does not have the diff locking switch, but could someone enlighten me as to a situation when this feature would be missed?

 

Thank you for any advice

Perk

grantchstr

"The oil barely registered on the tip of the dipstick, after a 20 minute test drive."

 

Well, was the oil on Full to start with? I guess not but this is amazing if this thing is in a dealers hands! In any event no-one should be driving anything with oil that low - thats even BELOW the minimum level on the dip-stick. How long ago distance and time-wise was the last oil change? What was the oil pressure guage showing I wonder if the oil level is so low.

 

"The steering knuckles (which I assume are the big round ball joint looking things at the end of the axle where the wheels are attached) are covered by a thick layer of caked on dirt and grease".

Well my guess is that you will need a Birfield repack - you are about right on budget for that. Do a search on Birfeld on this websites LC search engine and see all the banter on this subject.

tlcman

the head gaskets are know to leak and fail (fail aorund 120,000 miles) Make SURE they check the head gasket, because if it is replaced now it can save the engine.

 

please read this "how to inspect a used FZJ" its doens by Christo Slee he knows more most people do about these Trucks.

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm

trust me you should do what it recomends on this site, and the Oil seems too low. If I was buying this car I would spend the extra money for them to doa complete engine inspection. Oil filter pump lines, and crank case, need to be looked at. It is not normal for TLC's to have oil leaks, but they are not all perfect.

 

Check outside of steering knuckles for oil & grease. Caked on dirt and grease is a good indication that the inner axle seals has failed some time ago and internal components could be damaged or worn beyond service specs.

 

If there is not a locker dial then there arnt lockers on it, the FZJ-80 is solid front and rear axle, and a center diffential that will automaticly lock when the transfercase is shifted into low.

grantchstr

So is there a notation in the service manual about replacing Head Gaskets at 120,000?

 

I am approaching that number and I havent heard that notion before. Folks say that the engine will run to 300,000 or even 500,000 miles but I have never heard the Head Gasket "thing" before.

 

Having said that the perk22 LC which has the oil problem could be a candidate for an HG diagnosis at least.

steelcruiser

Overheating is symptom of HG failure, or pending failure, though there's a really hard to get heater hose up under the exhaust manifold on the driver's side that's prone to failure at higher mileage that can cause overheating. (I know, because mine went south at around 130K, and of course it was in the middle of summer, which was great when I cranked the heat to cool down the temp)

 

Have a leak down test done if you're concerned.

tlcman

Out of my experiance they are hard to find unless you look for them, but they are very common, you dont feel mutch until they go and i would bet that your car has it too, and yes they do run over 300,000 miles properly maintained, and usualy with gasket changes.

Well in brasil this month...

 

most of the regulars know I am in Brasil for a year doing a job here. I also brought my 2003 Cruiser… recently I was going back to my apartment and well it had been raining extreamly hard for about 1 hr didn’t think mutch about it. So as I got closer, I turned the corner to go up about 6 blocks I saw the entire street coved with water (up to the doors on houses)… you might not think its a lot but 1 meter is a lot and it was all moving with considerable force… hmm… I backed up and tried to go around it… wasn’t possible… So I pulled up my pant leggs and started to wade through it. Water was half way up the wheels next block close to the top…. Thank you Safari Snorkles, These streets are not great condition either so I was being very carefull about 3 blocks in my front right tyre went into a pot hole, about 9 inches deep, the car suddenly dipped to that side and well as I was heading up the street water was coming straight at me, (it was fairly flat but the water still moves) So when the truck listed to the right water was splashing up around my headlights and not to mention the inside already had a bit of water in it… Ok, well I know the road and know about the pot holes so I decided that it wasn’t a sink hole and started to go forward. I gave it some gas which spun the front right and back left tyre for less than a turn before the traction system helped it, but that was enough, the front right tyre burst. The car listed further as it idled back into the hole now the water was splashing up around the front right of my hood… (I later went back on a sunny day and found the pot hole, it had a jagged cement pice sticking out, the perfect tyre shredder) So I was three blocks in, three blocks from home and three blocks back…. I decided to get home, and that I wasn’t about to perform an act of God by changing my flat in 1 meter of running water. Ever so slowly I inched my Toyota closer to home… The next day the sun was out and I changed my tyre and the rim looked pretty scuffed up as well… and now i am cleaning out my alternator, and everything inside of the engine bay, the grill which had a ton of plastic bags stuck in it… Basicly cleaning it out front to back. I would like to thank my biggest help the Snorkle! What was it like? Picture yourself crossing a muddy river and not walking it first… there you go…but wait your not crossing it your going up it hahaha would post pictures too but the camera was a loss as it was on my floor behind my seat, and forgot about it until i got home.... ... Electronics need drying, got to run

grantchstr

Hope they are paying you well down there!

tlcman

"governemnt pays well" hahah its fun and its a learning experiance too! (use the rain story as an example) Its hard for me to reject oportunities to design...

sejinro

I just bought a 2000 LC with 65K miles. It's in excellent shape, but I just noticed that the spare tire is missing. If I can't get the dealer to throw one in, then what's the next step? What size do I need to get? Plus, what kind of rim do I need to buy?

 

BTW, I paid $24,700 plus TTL plus $1,900 warranty for 36K/3 years. Good deal? I hope so...

tlcman

well since you bought the car you cant really negotiate for a spare UNLESS they advertised it. If you had found out about it before you bought it would probably could have negotiated for one, The deal sounds about right a bit on the higher side but within reason.

 

Tyre size is either a 16 or 17 inch i believe for your modle and the wheels are P275 they are a full size spare so just tell them what you have on your truck now is what you need.

sejinro

I just called the dealer and they said to come by and pick up the spare - I suppose I got lucky. Mann, I thought I got a good deal. I live in Southern California and I couldn't find a better deal. The LC is fully loaded with 3rd row, towing, roof rack, wood inserts and running boards.

 

I am so excited to test this vehicle in the snow since I am going up to Mammoth later this week.

 

What are some "must have" accessories? Any tips on maintenance? Plus, I got 65K miles, any maintenance that needs to get done soon?

 

Thanks!

tlcman

nothing just change you oil, filters, watch your belts, and keep it clean and happy and it will last you forever. Dont wory about what you spent on it it is your now and you have a tank on wheels, it should be fun for you to see what this wonderfull suv is capable of, I always am suprised by mine!

steelcruiser

Hopefully, you may have gotten some service records with it?

Check all your fluids, air filter, engine oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid etc. Also, check transfer case and front and rear diff oil levels. Major services are recommended at 30K intervals, so hopefully yours was serviced at 60K?

 

Read your owner's manual and note that you've got a 2nd gear start which is useful for low traction conditions.

 

Correct tire size is 275/70/16 for the 2000 LC. The 17" wheels weren't standard until the 2003 model year

 

Enjoy!

perk22

I just recently purchased a 95 LC with oil leak(s). The oil pan has been indentified as at least one of the culprits. To my surprise, the dealer quoted $1150 to change the oil pan gasket. How much was yours? The crank case and power steering pumo have also been identified. Did you have any experience with those repairs?

 

Thanks

Perk

grantchstr

My Fj80 1991 has a very minor oil leak according to my indy (I can see the very occasional drips on my driveway). My indy said the labour cost of changing the gasket wasnt worth it just for a drip a day - thats its a lot cheaper to put in an extra pint of oil every 3,000 miles.....

seattlecruiser

If the market for LCs in Southern California is anything like it's here in Seattle then the deal you got is good. I checked for months and months for the "right one" to come along, and never got anywhere close to the kinds of deals others on this board report. In the end I just accepted that I'll have to pay a premium, I paid $27.5k for a 2000 with 61k back in July, which wasn't quite the best deal around, but it had complete service records and I knew the seller. I rationalize the "West Coast premium" with the fact that vehicles out here seem to outlast their counter parts in other parts of the country due to the mild climate. When my father in law from the midwest visits, his jaw always drops when he sees all of those immaculate 30 and 40 year old cars on the road, driven not by collectors but average people for everyday chores. And of course good old fashioned market forces also have something to do with it.

tlcman

haha yea thats true but only if those people driving those cars knew how to drive! haha I lived in Washington for 15 years and after moving back to Colorado adn visiting my team in washigton I get reminded at how people drive up there. And when the very ocasional snow falls people loose their minds. But despite crazy soccer moms doing thier makeup, drinking their coffe and talking on their cells yea the climate usualy is nicer on the cars, as long as you take care of it and dont let the constate moister mold (WA and OR) In washington I had 4 cars that all made it to Colorado, and well now two of them are dead thanking my sister for one and a lead footed woman running a red durring rush hour for the other. But otherwise Colorado isnt that tought on cars either as long as you wash the car underside included in the winter.

tidester

But despite crazy soccer moms ...

 

As opposed to? I think we can do without the gender based bias.

 

Happy holidays, all!

 

tidester, host

tlcman

I'm sure most of the people here knew that i meant no harm. and yes the crazy soccer dads exist too!

grantchstr

"crazy soccer moms doing their makeup, drinking their coffee and talking on their cells" -

it cant get any closer to reality than that!

 

The fact is that where I live - you cant go anywhere WITHOUT seeing "soccer mums" in SUVs doing their makeup at the SAME TIME as being on the cellphone! It actually pisses me of as its against the law - with good reason.

tlcman

hence why I stated it, Im not bashing wemon but every day I see some case of it. I will actualy delay my drive home if I get a Cell phone call in my car, I will pull off ina safe area to talk rather than endanger the lives of other motorist. Driving is one of the most dangerous things that many will ever do, you may not think so but there are not many times when most people are in sole comand of a 3000+ lbs machine. And if attention is not given to what is at stake, (money, lives, property) then you have a unconcintrated pilot of a 3000- (and in SUV cases)5000+ lbs killing machine. It is a delicate dance between reading the road and reacting. Not reading the paper and putting your maskera on.

 

I state this because I do not believe the soccer moms or whoever else that does not pay 100% attention to the raod is threatening lives.

Its a streach but sometimes I think that Teenage "i just got my first car" drivers are more focoused, reasoning being that if they are into driving in cars they are most likly paying 100% attention to the task at hand. Now im not saying that they are safer, since they might have an incincability feeling and might speed but the fact that they are paying 100% attention to the road is what may make them safer than the "socer mums"

tlcman

I'm well within my rights to state that

tidester

And I see plenty of men drinking their coffee, talking on the phone, fidgeting with their stereos, nav systems and other gadgets, reading newspapers and magazines and even shaving while driving. Inattentiveness on the roads is not gender specific and is unacceptable whatever the gender.

 

Now let's get back to the TLC.

 

tidester, host

tlcman

im sorry to have offened the tidester, host. I miss stated my comments above, Please replace

 

"soccer moms or whoever else that does not pay 100% attention to the raod"

 

with "unatentive motorist"

 

 

Never have i made or attempted to make a gender, race, or religious based bias or slander. And I intend to keep it that way, if thats the way you precived what I said then thats what you think, but Im pretty sure that after contributing lots of my knowledge to these toyota boards that everyone in this fourm knew that It was not Bias or slander.

 
-End of story.

now we return you to our regular Cruiser talk

 

-Some times things might be dissagreed about, but one thing that I can say we agree with is having a safe enjoyable holiday.

 

Merry Christmas All!

Tidester, you have a good safe holiday too!

firemouse

When the transmission is on Drive the light on the dashboard display does not come on (light up) 'D' on my '99 TLC. Any thoghts?!?!

 

All other transmission positions light up on the dashboard 'P''R''N'. . except 'D'.

 

Thanks

tlcman

my 1994 did the same thing to, Its just a bulb that is going dim after being on got along time i believe. I did not pursue changing the light, i believe its too mutch cost and trouble for what it is.

firemouse

While I am eager to agree with you, I remember reading somewhere that the light indicator is also designed to inform the driver of a transmission issue (if/when blinking!! Ofcourse, I am hoping that i am wrong!!

tlcman

my 1994 started dimming in about 1997 and i put over 100k miles on it after that, I think if you just keep its services regular and make sure its running right youll be fine

grantchstr

A (minor) problem I have (Fj80 1991) is that sometimes (it comes and goes!) the background light near the transmission lever doesnt work - so that to confirm the gear that one has engaged (at night its the problem) one has to look at the dashboard.

perk22

I just recently purchased a beautiful 95 FJ80 in very good running condition. I was hoping for mpg in the 13-15 range, but so far, I've barely reached 10 mpg. Driving has been around town, but with a very light foot and with 91 oct. I'm not sure if I just need to get used to the idea of 10mpg or if I can expect the 13-15 range with tune ups, throttle body and fuel injection cleaning, etc. Overall, I love the vehicle, but I would really like a little better than 9-10 mpg. What mpg are 93-97 owners getting out there? What have people experienced in the way of repairs/maintanence that have resulted in mpg gains?

Thanks

perk22

My 95 LC stereo is the cassete with CD player model. The CD player will take the CD in, but than ejects it without starting to play. Anyone been able to fix this problem.

tlcman

Not sure about the stereo but you should put in the cheapest gas, 87 octane, youll save your self some green and increase you milage a bit. Also replace your air filter with a K&N Filter (ask the local parts store) they run around 50$ but will last longer than any two vehicles will if properly maintained not to mention give more air flow increasing milage. Clean the throttle body, by detaching the inlet hose and use a toothbrush to clean what you can, and a shop vac to clear it out. You may also want to check into getting a carbon cleaner kit while you order your K&N they are easy to use, just follow the instructions, and it should again increase your power and milage a bit. Change Oil, for teh tranny as well as the engine, if it hasnt been done already. Check spark plugs make sure they are in good shape and have the right Gap (which is in your manual) if they need to be replaced replace them with double or 4 pronged platnum spark plugs, they give better sparks and burn all of the fuel under hard acceleration. Check your belts make sure they are not being restricted by anything. after you do this tell me what your getting, i got around 12-15 mpg and the worst of 10. the best way to get the best gas milage is to accel moderatly (60-70% throttle) to the speed limit or whatever and then cruise, and cruiser to a stop dont accell until you need to stop... but then again you probly know this... If you accel slower you are burning more gas but not moving fast, burn the gas to get to the speed you need and then coast, its more efficient.

steelcruiser

The CD players were a bit of a problem area. If you have the service records find out whether or not one was ever replaced. If so, you might be able to get another one. I got 4(!) players on my '94 before the problem was resolved. I think Panasonic made them.

 

Regarding mileage. In addition to what Mike said, consider using synthetics in the TCase, diffs and transmission. Also, check your tire pressure and cats. I never got below 12 on my '94. Think COASTING and plan for stop signs and red lights about a week before you need to stop.

 

Make sure that your overdrive is not turned off and that you don't have the PWR switch (which holds your shifts longer) engaged.

tlcman

hehe, im always trying to find ways to squeeze more milage out of my automatics... What I will do on a slight down hill slope after reaching my cruising speed, is I will drop the shifter into N that way the engine uses very little gas and I still have acceleration due to the slope, I increased my honda from 28 mpg to around 34 mpg. and the cruiser i was hitting around 15 in the city. You dont need to stop the vehicle to put it back into drive either, just slip it back and the tranny will judge the speed and select the proper gear, mine always came back smoothly in fourth...

steelcruiser

Mike-interesting that you would mention the quick acceleration to speed. Remember our discussion a while back about BMW's "e" or eta engines and their rationale behind it?

 

I find the LC has a pretty broad speed range in which you can operate without adversely affecting mileage. If you've got your foot in it all the time around town, forget it. You'll be lucky to get 10mpg. On the fwy, 60-70 or so and you'll do fine, especially using cruise control. But bump it up above that and it's going to suffer accordingly.

grantchstr

As others have suggested - use 87 Octane gas. That will save plenty (the other saving comes from maintenance costs WAY cheaper than ANY car I have ever owned.) I get close to 14 on my 1991 Fj80 but dont do much stop-start stuff.

 

Air cleaner - the advice I got from my indy about the top of the line air cleaner was that the extra expense wouldnt be recouped in any measurable fuel saving (comments anybody?). By my calculation I would need > 4% increase in fuel effiency to recoup the additional cost of the K&N and that is an unlikely gain.

 

A question to tlcman, while your downhill fuel saving in neutral may be beneficial IMHO you are shortening the lifespan of very expensive transmission system! I used to do that with a stick shift when I could double de-clutch but I am reluctant to do it with my automatic-Fj80! I would suggest if you DO do this little trick that you might want to rev the engine a touch before re-engaging.

coupedncal

The downhill shift to save on gas isn't a good idea. When you re-engage the tranny, there is a much more severe impact to the auto tranny. coasting while in gear is a much better way to go.

luckylou

Trying to changed the e-mail setting have been impossible in the Edmunds web site if anyone wants to get hold of me , my e-mail is : epg2738@bellsouth.net

  Thank you

    Lou

 P.S. Host , hope this is not illegal . Have tried most of the morning without any success to change the forums preferences.

tidester

Lou,

 

I'm not sure why it's not working. You have to click on the "Preferences" link under "Forums Tools" at the top of the left column on this page. There you will see your email settings and find a link to change your "email settings." After filling in your password for security you should be able to set the check box to make your email address public in your profile.

 

tidester, host

vavavavolvo

I'm interested in any experience others have had with 87 octane. When I bought my TLC the salesman said the same thing as TLCman regarding his Tundra.....that 87 octane was not only cheaper than 91, but also resulted in him getting more mpg.

 

I've used both and the vehicle seems to run equally well. I'll do a mpg comparison when I go on a long trip.

 

Anybody have any idea why lower octane would result in increased mpg, and why Toyota allows down to 87 octane but is recommending 91?

luckylou

Yes , I have tried all that , my wife think is because of the heavy traffic on the web , I ' ll keep trying thru the weekend .

Thank you

 Lou

luckylou

hi vavavavolvo

since buying brand new my 2003 TLC and almost 24000 miles and counting not a single problem with the engine or otherwise never tried any other octane.

The mileage have been right on the money 13 city,17 hwy. In my neck of the woods the 3 classes of octane jump in $0.10 intervals reg. gas has a tremendous savings in the pokect book. A while back I heard you can run the LC with any grade and will give you about the same performance and mileage.

Good luck.

 Lou

luckylou

Well, just filled up to start the new year , while pumping 21.3 gallons my mind raced back , way back to the days of gas wars , four gas stations one in each corner wanting your business , giving free sets of glasses or utensils or dishes with every fill up or up to 8 gallons , plus .... Sir or Madam , can I check under the hood , I am going check your tires , I am going clean your windshield, if you happen to be low less than a quart of oil normally they will touch it up and not charged you for it and all with a smile and true grit handshake . I must have dose up when a very loud beep beep beep beep reminds me it was not December 31th 1962 when politeness was replaced by rudeness and middle finger.

Maybe , maybe they'll be back someday my mama says...

HAPPY AND HEALTHY NEW YEAR

 Lou

stever

Check out the What about fuel types & gas mileage? discussion.

 

Steve, Host

seattlecruiser

Okay, now you guys got me all confused. I went back and read every post that deals with octane. Did some googling, and I just can't seem to get a definitive answer. Does a 2000 Land Cruiser require premium fuel (as stated in the manual and on the fuel door), or is this simply a recommendation and it will run just fine with regular in low-stress conditions? I read that everything is okay as long as there is not pinging/knocking, but then also that it won't ping because the computer adjusts the timing automatically. Also read that the engine was changed in '01 to handle regular just fine, but that 98-00 models require premium and using anything less will long-term damage the engine. Then I read a quote from a Porsche engineer who said their cars are sold all over the world with some pretty crappy fuel out there, so our U.S. regular is totally sufficient (their cars obviously are also officially "premium only"). Certainly this argument is even more valid for the LC, which is driven places where there aren't even roads (and one can assume no high quality fuel either). Anybody out there who is able to put this to rest for once and for all? Thanks!

luckylou

On the 2003 LC that I bought with 6 miles on , I only have used 87 octane (regular gas ) . Now I got about 23300 miles trouble free. The only change is after the initial 10000 miles I changed to synthetic oil, because I learned on this thread that would run even better than it does.

The salesman said ,87 octane so did the maintenance guys at the dealer.

 You can use any fuel octane and the LC will be happy, but with regular gas your wallet will be too.

Hope this help.

 Lou

perk22

Thanks alot for the posts. I think I'm going to try and replace the plugs, wires, and cap/rotor myself. I've never worked on my own vehicles, and I must admit, I am not very mechanically inclined. These procedures seem straightforward enough. I read up on the general procedures for doing these tasks, but are there any LC specific issues I should be aware of? I did notice that some parts need to be removed to get to all the plugs. Can it get tricky getting them all back together (remembering my background)?

I'd also like to clean the TB myself. Could someone be a little more descriptive about this procedure, including its appearance and location

 

Thanks alot

Perk

perk22

Anyone have any recommendations on installing lockers on my 95. What sort of prices am I looking at, and how do they compare(Factory vs. Aftermarket)?

If Aftermarket, is there a top brand? Is this a job for an indy, 4 wheel drive shop, or do I need to stick to factory?

 

Thanks

luckylou