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Toyota Land Cruiser



  • For an older LC - 1991 Fj 80 FE - I need a new aerial. Any advice as to where to go for a oddball spare part like this?
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    Your mast can be replaced for around $30 (part) and 2 hours of your time if you're slow. Go to and look in the tech section, I believe.

  • I just bought a '97 FJ80. For driving on the street I'm trying to learn to drive using mainly the torque of the motor and go easy on the brakes.
    Any tips on how to go easy on the brakes?
    Any tips on how to better use the torque?
    Is this the best way to drive this wagon on the flat streets of Dallas?

    When I get into the mud and rocks for true offroading I'll ask another time how to drive on those surfaces. Please stick to the road!
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    Brake pads are cheap and easy to replace, and transmissions are not.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    I just recently sold a 97 TLC FJ80 with approximately 50,000 miles. I am a bit unclear about what you mean about using mainly the torque of the motor? ( I also drive a VW TDI Jetta with 90 hp and 155 hp torque. So for a Landcruiser 212 hp with 365-425 # ft of torque ) Going easy on the brakes (I have driven extensively in Dallas) can mean a lot of things. For a range of brake wear, friends have had to change their (TLC) pads in as little as 12,000 miles (streets of San Francisco). More normal is between 40,000-50,000.

    If what I think I understand of what you mean by driving the torque, the thing to keep in mind is it takes a lot to get a 4800-4900 # vehicle going, also up to speed and stop. So the thing to do is to leave as much space cushion as you can so the energy dissipates into empty space and not as heat in the pads and rotors. The vehicle is capable of 60-0 in app 135 ft. So for a BIG truck it is no slug in the stopping department.

    When accelerating, I tend to use the o/d button to let it wind out a few more revs before it upshifts. On the deccleration, it also helps to slow the vehicle a bit. The good news and the bad news are the pads are pretty inexpensive. I have also gone to a TRD carbon fiber metallic combination on the fronts. When I bought a slew of them they did not have it available for the rears (I have owned 5 TLC's). They tend to throw off a tad more brake dust than stocks, but the wheel design tends to hide this, unlike a more open wheel design like a Corvette Z06. Best of luck on your new 97 TLC!
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    No matter how you choose to drive, there will be a tradeoff (pros and cons). Fast acceleration and sudden stopping decreases fuel efficiency and increases wear on brakes.
    Driving with OD off increases engine braking and would therefore decrease brake wear, but again cause decreased fuel economy. I tend to drive with OD off while in town and in the mountains.

    I wonder about the effects on the tanny and drivetrain of frequent downshifting when stopping or slowing down. I tend to think it would not be harmful and would increase brake life. Is this harmful to an automatic transmission as a daily practice over a long period of time? Is the increased fuel consumption more costly than frequent brake pad replacement?
    The conservative answer is to not speed, accelerate slowly, and coast to a stop. In Dallas that will get you run over. You can always save the aggressive passing for the off road trails, as you climb past the domestics.
  • OK. . this might come across as an ignorant question but i wil ask it anyway . .

    Is the TLC 100 Series (98+) Unibody construction?
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    No, it's body on frame.

    Toyota made a big to-do about the new, stiffer frame with the introduction of the uzj100 back in '98, neglecting to mention they softened the rig with rack & pinion steering and independent front suspension.
  • So, in essence, with respect to construction, the only difference between the current TLC & the 4runner is the steering structure and front suspension, notwithstanding the shape and amenities of course.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    Well, there are some drivetrain differences. 4Runner has a torsen center diff; TLC does not. Diff ratios are probably different. In the 80 series and earlier, the mini and TLC axle diameters and spline counts were the same, but the 3rd member on the TLC was larger. Not sure about the current vehicles though.
  • Hi. Recently we purchased a 97 LC. When doing our research, one of the only "main" problems people complained about was the lack of cup holders or placement of them in the vehicle. Now that we are driving ours (we love it) but are wondering how you resolved this issue? Is there a custom cup holder that is made to use over the parking break or anything that you know of? Just hoping some of you that own them can shed some light as to what works best.

  • paysonpayson Posts: 32
    On the subject of timing belt changes,we have a 93 L.C. with 150k miles.I can't find any reference in any of our maintenance paperwork that this has ever been changed.We bought this truck 5 years ago with 93K miles. Does this truck have a timing belt or chain? I don't see it mentioned in the manual.Thanks for any advice
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    It has a chain.
  • paysonpayson Posts: 32
    Good news, thanks
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    You may also be unaware that your '93 needs the valve clearances checked periodically. When the rig is cold, pull off the valve cover and get out your feeler gauges. Intake spec is 0.006" to 0.01"; exhaust is 0.01" to 0.014". It is a shim and bucket, DOHC setup, so you can't rely on valve train noise to alert you.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    That is a good point, on 91-97 the valve clearances are recommended to be checked at 60,000 k miles.
  • paysonpayson Posts: 32
    Thanks,I'll have my husband check the valves before we bring it to the dealer next month for its 150k mile maintenance. Any other advice that may not be in the manual that we should know with this many miles?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    So the frequency is 60,120,180... etc. Since you are at 150k, NOW might be a good thing, if you have not done it at the previous intervals or do not know when it was last done, but if you have done it at 60,120, the next cycle of course would be 30k away or 180k.

    Be forwarned and forarmed that the check itself will be app 1/2-1hr of shop time (90 per around here) to a couple hundred should the valves not meet specifications. Obviously DIY would be the most economical. A step up would be to find a specialist who doesnt charge as much as a dealer.
  • For my 1991 Fj 80, which eats brakes, what would be the best brakes for the front in order to maximize use and minimize maintenance.

    PS. I know this depends on use etc but what would be a typical time between front brake changes. I had a front change/disc machining at 83,000 and I am now up to 107,000 - was told they are "OK" at my recent annual "sticker" inspection. I would guess that I need some new front shoes soon.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    Get a factory repair manual. The '93 manual does not cover the rear full-floating hub nor differential locks. You should get the '94 model year manual as it covers those features, and the rest of the rig is the same. The only exception is if your rig has R12 A/C. The '94 manual will cover R134a.

    Front axle seals are items not mentioned in the recommended maintenance list. Check them every 60k miles. If the rear axle seals go, you'll see a star pattern of gear lube on the wheel.
  • Am I right in thinking that for my '91 Fj 80 I would also need to get the later '94 manual to cover the rear full-floating hub and differential hubs?
  • Greetings -

    I am seriously contemplating the purchase of a 'leftover' 2003 LC or a used low mileage 2000-02 model. So far, the pricing here in the northeast seems to be $35K-37K for a certified 2000 with low miles (less than 40K). I've got a dealer willing to give an $8K discount on the 2003 models, which still puts them at $50K + (depending upon options, natch). A lot of dough! But the new vehicle has Side Curtain Airbags for the first two rows (a big selling point with the family riding along) and the 5sp automatic getting (slightly) better fuel 'economy'. Yeah, the Nav is nice but certainly not a must have - fun diversion on long trips I suppose.

    Am I getting taken here? Should I be working the dealer(s) harder on this?

    Thanks for your comments!

  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    Not unless you swapped in a '93 or later FF rearend. The stock fj80 rearend is a SF drum brake setup.
  • So the 1991 and 1992 model was replaced by the 1993 model - am I reading that correctly? I got my 1991 right when there was a major model change and I guess that the new model only lasted two years before an upgrade?

    I think it might have been Idahodoug who suggested that the Bentley (I think that was the name) manual was preferable to the factory manual - any comment on that?
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    Yes, 91/92 have the 3FE, 4l, pushrod motor, and '93 and later have the 1fzfe, 4.5l, DOHC motor. There are other, minor differences.

    Dunno about Bentley, but the Gregory's manual is good. I have factory and Gregory's. They complement each other well.
  • albivalbiv Posts: 35
    I purchased my '03 in June. Sticker was $61K and I got it for 54k. That was about 1k over dealer cost which is what the Edmuinds TMV price showed at that time. I noticed recently the TMV price is more than the 1k over dealer cost that I paid. LC's are pricey but I plan on keeping mine for a very long time so I don't mind the extra up front costs. I would think now would be a good time to deal on one. Don't get caught up in the excitement. I walked out 2 times before we agreed on a price. Work the dealer as hard as possible. I filled out Edmunds free dealer quote page and had 3 or 4 dealers contact me through E Mail.

    Hope this helps
  • Has anyone here had a good experience with a front ‘mask’ protection on a TLC. I have a 99 model and I would like to protect it from the ‘pebbles’ they fill the streets with for snow purposes here in Colorado. It literarily damages the front end of many cars. I am not too thrilled with the ‘Clear Mask’ as it tends to fade, wear out, and starts really looking ugly. Replacement is semi-impossible.

    I am leaning towards the Colgan ‘Carbon Fiber’ mask. . any thoughts?!
  • Guys,
    Hi, I have a 1997 Land Cruiser with only 44,000 miles and the check engine light just came on! The car is running fine. My question is:

    1.) Does anyone have details on how to pull codes from the landcruiser

    2.) Does the Land Cruiser typically turn on the light for normal maintenance?

    Any insight is appreciated:
    email me.
  • Thanks,

    Looks like I can buy a new 2003 with all options including the DVD rear seat entertainment for $52,800. I might just go for that. The dealer I had been working with packed up all non-entertainment system LC's and sent them to the auction today!
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    You need an OBD-II code reader. You can have the dealer or another shop read the codes, or buy a reader. Autozone may read the codes for you for free.

    No, it does not illuminate for maintenance.
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