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Will the 4.7L TRD supercharger work for my car?
I was told the 2005 can shift on the fly at low speed? The little shifter is pretty hard to move so I don't want to force it, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Second how much after market stuff is avalible for the 91' L/C, most important four inch plus lift kit? Also lets make it three questions. What's a far price for 91' in great shape.
Thanks
Premium fuel is not required although the manual says slightly more power if used.
I don't think you can go wrong with your potential purchase. I would want to see verification that all maintenance was performed on the vehicle such as timely oil changes, etc.
First: suggestion for the "new" '05 poster. DON'T shift into low range on the fly! Are you perhaps thinking of the center differential lock? Proper procedure is to stop the vehicle, shift in to N, then to L or H.
Second: After market stuff for a '91? Lots, and lots. You can do 4" lift, but you'll also need to re-do your caster bushings up front.
Third: Replacing engines and super chargers. Why? Just my.02, but with such a capable vehicle and engine, why do you want to try and make it more "sports car" like? These aren't drag racing machines. Again, just my thoughts. Pretty expensive mods.
Fourth: Premium fuel. If you live some place where you can get 93 or 94 octane, I do think you'll feel a difference in both performance and mileage. I live in CA where all we can get is 91 octane. I drove my '02 across country a couple of years ago and I got about 2 mpg better with the 93 and 94 octane fuel--and I've got a lift and oversize tires. I got slightly over 20 mpg on straight highway driving with 93 octane and about 15.5 around town vs. my normal 18/highway/14/city.
With gas prices much less now, you might want to try a couple of tanks of premium and see if you notice a difference.
Fifth: Transmissions. Though not a cure all, you can change out the fluid in the pan every other oil change or so and at least give yourself some fresh fluid without a flush from time to time.
HTH
I idled it for about 5 minutes, restarted it and the alarm and warning lights went away. I went to the gas station to filled it up and test drive it. I noticed it was very sluggish pulling away from the gas station, like it was in 2nd gear instead of 1st. After that it ran fine, no issues to this day.
My theory is that there was a malfunction with the electrical system (OBD probably) somehow caused by the extreme cold weather. I think the slugishness was the result of the OBD inadvertantly turning on the 2nd gear traction setting that I can turn on by the push of a button ( the button by the transmission lever below the "power button" )
Strange occurance. I hope mine doesn't turn into a 3K repair bill like yours did.
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/01/automobiles/autoreviews/01land-cruiser.html
The thermostat was replaced and the bill (I told the indy to also do an oilchange which addedl) came to
$ 424......seems high to me , they charged $95 for a "diagnostic test" and then $200 labor for the thermostat replacement and various pressure testing etc etc .
What is it that you like about the Mightyvac?
Just wanted to get some other's opinions on the safety of the two vehicles and general thoughts of one verus the other.
This is certainly something worth considering with regard to the airbags. I would not buy a car without them. Do you have direct knowledge of when they became available in the TLC?
From a safety standpoint I would favor the LC, but there is little objective info about crash testing, etc out there. This is true for most high-end vehicles...unfortunately.
The TLC is an awesome vehicle. You will never be sorry if you get one.
1. Shift to neutral.
2. Shift to Low range.
3. Center diff lock light comes on.
4. ABS light comes on.
5. Engine dies.
On occasion the diff lock light will not come on and it is not engaged and the engine will continue to run, but if it locks and the ABS light comes on (which should happen) the engine dies.
I have no clue what is the problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Brent
You probably have an automatic transmission on your 96 TLC. If going to low range has anything to do with engaging 4WD, maybe the engine is supposed to slightly increase in idle speed before it engages....sort of like the increase in idle speed right before the a/c clutch energizes. If the above hypothesis is true and the engine controls fail to increase the idle speed as needed, the additional load might be killing the engine.
I've only driven a (rental) 4WD one time, a Ford Explorer, and it felt like the vehicle was towing something (or dragging something) all the time, and that was without even engaging the 4WD. I kept checking the emergency brake to make sure it wasn't engaged. So, I know all that extra geartrain under there definitely contributes drag to the output of the engine.
Another guess is that your injectors and throttle body need to be cleaned (I think the other response to your question suggested some cleaning). I have a 98 Avalon and my mechanic advised that I clean these at no later than 90,000 miles. A friend of mine has a Toyota Sienna and he heard the same thing from his trusted mechanic, only in his case he actually had a rough-running engine and took it in for diagnosis right around 85,000 miles.
Good luck and let us know what is causing this problem.
Jeff
I had dealer inspected but they found no problems at all.
I was also wondering if the 4x4 low gear's knob top can be twisted off? It's tight but making an even more minor vibrating sound a few seconds, I just want to twist it off and apply a tape then put back on, but wanted to make sure its on a thread like a screw.
However today, these 3 lights, ABS, VSC Trac and VSC Off, were on after 10-15mins driving, but they were not on in the first 10-15min after engine re-started. This phenomenon is repeatable. Does anyone have any clue of the problem? Your help and information will be highly appreciated.
The Avalon also has a port located on top of the engine. The port at the fuse panel is the one Autozone connected to to scan for a problem I had a few years ago.
Good luck
Should I consider an upgrade to the suspension or shocks to address this and if so, what do you suggest? Will it affect daily driving without the load?
Also, is there any way to increase the power for when we cross mountain passes? For the steep ascents, I find using 2nd gear and keeping the speed less than about 40 is better than trying to maintain highway speed.
Thanks!
If it's sagging a little more than you think it should, you might want to try adding a spring to the hitch point to lift the rear end. I don't know what they're called; a store that sells boats and boat trailers should be able to help you.
Also, your TLC owner's manual and/or the boat owner's manual should have some instructions for setting up the desired rear-end level compare to the front-end level. Your other choice is to try and redistribute any gear that's in the boat. Of course, if you move gear too far to the rear of the boat, you risk some side-to-side instability.
As far as the bounce, you might need new shocks. The bounce might be cured (somewhat) with the hitch spring and/or gear redistribution.
Don't know much about the power problem. You might want to speak with some private Toyota specialists. In north Texas, Import Masters is a 4WD Toyota specialist. You can reach Johnny at 817-599-3361. BTW, I don't work for Import Masters; they've kept my 85 truck running for the past 15 or so years.
Jeff
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Has anyone installed a satellite radio without the cumbersome wires and hookups that many post market satellite/ipod hookups require?? If so, what brand and model radio did you use. Did you have any problems?
Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks!!
Just got a 92 land cruiser last night from dealer. Didnt notice clunk from underneith (only clunk on accelerating/decelerating. one clunk for each). i read in your forum here from someone that lubing drive shaft yokes, tranfer case fittings, propeller shafts, and checking the "torch". his was a much new model than mine but was wondering if this was the same to do on my model? plus, came from dealer who claims alls been lubed. have 30 day gaurentee. is this his problem or mine do u think??
Thank you in advace for any and all help
Crawl under your rig and you'll quickly see these areas. And if it hasn't been done, you might want to consider swapping out your f/r diff and transfer case gear lube.
Another thing to check on the 80 series is the birfield joints.
HTH
The secret is to never,never bring it to a dealership for service,which would prove to be a rare need anyway. They not the car are your problems. IMHO
I have an 2000 ToyotaLandcruiserCygnus.The VSC and TRAC OFF lights came on the dash. Please explain me problem solving. Please discussion for me.