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Dodge Sprinter Electrical Problems



  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    wondering what they fixed? what was the "fix"?

    Just guessing from the little info in your post, but sounds like either the Glow-plug module is going/gone out, or the computer thinks you have attempted a start and wants you to turn off completely and re-start the start up problem.

    Kenneth :shades:
  • mcinnismcinnis Posts: 4
    Where can I find and electrical engineer to reverse engineer the modifications to our Van (100amp additional systems load). Lasers, cameras, radar, computers, warning lights, second alternator, invertor, 110v, 12 and 420 amp hr batteries. We need experienced eyes to review and comment on our highly modified van.
  • Hi, my 2004 dodge sprinter 2500, 2.7l - 5 cyl. Mercedes engine does NOT start every time. I left the engine OFF for 5h. and all turn signals went ON and I have NO idea why. My battery died and I can NOT start the vehicle. Does anyone have any idea if it is the manufacturing alarm? Why did all signals (front and rear) turn on "after about 5-6h.,when I did not drive anywhere? Thank you in advance, Boris!!!
  • Hi, I can not start my 2004 Dodge Sprinter 2500 2.7l Mercedes engine van early in the morning when the temperature is below 50F. Once I start it, I don't have a problem at all. If during the day I turn off the engine , it starts again without any problem. I checked all fuses and relays in the cab and I don't know if there are more somewhere around the engine or battery. I bought a new battery, I drove the van for 2 000 miles without a stop but when I came home at midnight and left my van, 8am the next morning it did not start. I belive it is an elecrical problem but I don't know what alse to check.
    The starter is good - checked it in autozone store
    The battery is good - 12,8 (14,5 from the alternator)
    The fuses and relay are good
    All grounds are good (body, engine e.t.)
    Does anyone have an idea??????????
  • I had the same problem with my 2006 sprinter. I just pulled the fuses out that run the daytime running lights and the took care of the problem. I think I had to pull at least two differnt fuses. Easy fix
  • My 2006 Sprinter keeps blowing out both the Mass air sensor and the EGR valve sensors. I think ive had them replaced two or more times each so far. Does anyone have the same problem if so how was it fixed?? Any help would be greatly appreciated, What can I do to stop the problem? My srinter just hit 51,000 miles
  • Thank you jconsoleo, but I don't have those fuses, I bought the van like
    this, when I run my van my daytime lights are NOT ON, and I have like 4
    more fuses which says that are for daytime light and I took them out and
    still no even crank the engine. Ones the engine crank it will be started for
    sure, Any other ideas? :( :cry:
  • Do you have a start error on the dash display?does the engine crank?at 50 deg the glow plugs should not be a problem,the most likely causes are low fuel rail pressure or a crankshaft plausibility error,i see this all the time in the winter,have someone pull the codes and look for fuel presure or crank/cam sensor faults.also look for fuel leaks at the high pressure pump when the engine is cold
  • This is normal,sprinters are built with this feature for the european market,law requires you to have thes lights on when parked on the side of the road at night and they drive on the left side of the road.
  • the 2007 sprinters have a problem withe the inline fuse in the battery cable from the alt. to the starter,i have seen several cases of poor charging,causing the batteries to die or not have enough voltage to start the van.check for corosion at the cable and replace if needed.
  • I had a similar problem on a friday evening after a long day of service calls with no problem. Had the vehicle towedand waited till monday to find out it was the negative battery cable. Resistance was high. I did notice the cable was warm but did not realize it was the problem as connections were all clean and the cable looked sound. Paid almost $400.00 for a 12 inch cable. Hope this solves problem if you have not already found other problem
  • A popular problem with a no start, no crank condition is the failure/locking up of your WCM(Wireless Control Module) also refered to as a SKREEM module (Sentry Key Remote Entry Module). ***You may be able to temporarliy unlock/ reset this by disconnecting and reconnecting the negative battery terminal.*** The condition happens in cold/dry weather conditions and has to due with electrostatic discharge from the ignition key to the WCM (see above). This conditioned is corrected by replacing the WCM $800- $1000 parts & labor:(
    This directly ties into the remote keyless entry so use the key only to open and lock the doors. Do not use the key fob.
  • recently had my a problem with my Van that sounds just like the Battery Cable issue. I drove the van a full day on Thursday, Friday morning I started the van as normal drove for about 15 miles and parked the van to get a coffee. When getting back in the van I turned the key and it would not start. the lights and radio worked but would not crank at all.

    Called the Chrysler business link and had it towed to the shop.
    They seemed to have no clue as to the problem could be but seemed to be convinced it was a fuel issue. I pointed out that if I had bad fuel wouldn't the engine still crank and just not start. They told me this was a "good point". they seem to believe it is a bad starter and have ordered a new one. Now the problem is this: The van broke down on December 19. they might have a new starter by this week December 31st but told me it could take as long as January 5th.

    If i have to wait for a new starter and then find out it is just the cable I am really gonna flip.

  • My husband recently purchased a Dodge Sprinter van with a Mercedes diesel and one day he was out working all day and it was fine. He came home and was inside for about an hour and when he went to leave again, he cranked up and then shut off. That is all it does not. We took it to Dodge and they hooked it up to their machine and it came back that there was a problem with the ECM. We sent the ECM off to be repaired and it came back to us as having no problems. We also changed a sensor in it and that did not help. All it does it crank up and idle for a couple of seconds and then shuts down. We have had several mechanics look at this truck and everyone is stumped. PLEASE HELP! He needs to get back to work and it's been 3 weeks!!!! ANY IDEAS!!????
  • are you in california?
  • Do you live in california?
  • no, i am in Florida!
  • Have a 2004 Sprinter 2500 series. One day turn signals just quit working. All of them at quit once. The 6 light bulbs are all OK (4 corners plus the 2 side fender makers ) because they all work when the 4 way emergency flasher is activated. I removed the 4-way flasher module (located at bottom right side of the fuse block on the steering column) and the flashers stopped. Re-inserted it and the flashers work. Still no turn signals. Replaced it with a new one from the dealer--still no turn signals and am stuck with an extra un-necessary spare part.
    I searched the owners manual and all of the tags and labels on each fuse , on both the fuse blocks in the steering column and the fuse block under the drivers seat--NOWHERE is any fuse marked for the TURN SIGNAL.
    Ae there any fuses for the turn signals?
    Where are they?
    Does the 4 way flasher module unit at the bottom right side of the steering column also control the turn signals--it has 5 electrical contact prongs--3 parallel and 2 horizontal--so it may do more than "flash" but the dealer is clueless
    Is there any other fuse block in another location?
    The local dealer hs no clue.on any of this.
  • jeraleejeralee Posts: 1
    After spending $2K to fix my sprinter RV (diesel), I put the key in the ignition and it kicked over once, then showed "error" with a number on the dash and won't start. I detached the negative battery cable, waited, re-attached it. Same result.

    Brief history of my issue:
    During rainy season, lights started to turn themselves on this the middle of the night and ran the battery down. After recharging it 3 times, took it to Dodge dealer. They said battery cell dead. Replaced for $350.

    Next morning, dead again. Dodge said, "It must be a drain from the coach." Spent 3 weeks at coach dealer, no problems with coach electrical but lights still turned themselves on.

    Back to Dodge. They said tail light was out and was improper light causing short and triggered problem. Cost about $300 for diagnosis and light replacement. When I paid my bill, they couldn't start it to bring the vehicle to me. They said the ignition wasn't recognizing my key. Some module was replaced $1240 to repair.

    Home for less than 24 hours. I just went out to park it on the RV pad and first paragraph tells what happened.

    WHAT DO I DO NOW? This thing can sink me financially! Who has the real expertise to find & fix the problem if the dealer is failing?

    HELP!!! I can't afford this! Should the dealer be taking some responsibility for the cost from here?

  • Time to move these issues up the Dodge food chain.
    This dealer is just guessing with you paying for the wrong guesses.
    There is no possible issue with the coach that could have
    affected the lighting / starting on the Sprinter. Wrong light bulb?
    Give me a break. Demand the old parts. Sprinter parts
    are way to expensive to just guess and swap.
    My 06 had a flaky fuse block that had to be replaced.
    It could be something as simple as that.
    Please post a follow up and let us know what happens.
  • I think you have a same problem like one guy in chicago.
    Dealer change fuel pump a new ECU $3000 total. And sprinter doesn work. Is waiting at the Dealer for ? extra money a they will not fix anything.

    try to change fuse box,
    try to take a look for anti block brake.
    (locking differencial) diferencial is still on , it shut be off- but power is on (for resintence).if ECU will detect during driving dif. lock ,fuel pump will disconect fuel.
    I am not mechanic--
  • I think you have a same problem like one guy in chicago.
    Dealer change fuel pump a new ECU $3000 total. And sprinter doesn work. Is waiting at the Dealer for ? extra money a they will not fix anything.

    try to change fuse box,
    try to take a look for anti block brake.
    (locking differencial) diferencial is still on , it shut be off- but power is on (for resintence).if ECU will detect during driving dif. lock ,fuel pump will disconect fuel.
    I am not mechanic--
  • Thanks! However, I think the truck is just a P.O.S.!!

    We purchased a new ECM for mega $$$$ and the truck started right up. Then after 2 weeks, same thing. ECM went bad AGAIN! So, now they wouldn't just exchange the ECM. They had to send it off to get looked at to see if the problem is the ECM or if it's the truck that is making the ECM go bad. Twice the same thing... I think it's the truck. I'm totally lost here. They said I can buy another ECM and if they find out that there was a problem with the other one, then they will reimburse me the money. Or I can just wait 90 days for them to figure it out. I'm just going to fix it and get rid of it. I just bought another work truck. I've completely given up on this Sprinter Van.
  • I have and 07 International Dt570 with air over hydraulics that i am working on. The problem is that i dont have brake lights. now keep in mind that this is a fire truck and nothing is easy to find on these trucks. I found the brake 12v wire running to the lights and put 12v to it and the brakes work. telling me the that the wires are good from there back. Checked all the relays and fuses. all good. Now i cant trace the wires back from the point that i tested from because it runs into a huge wire loom that has all the wires for lights and sirens. that is a box of monkeys that i just dont want to open. Now i believe it may be a possible brake switch problem, but finding that is almost caused me to go crazy... or atleast closer to it. if someone would point me in the right direction i would be in your debt.. thanks
  • The plastic step has several little square plugs that are hiding the torx head bolts that retain the step to the body. Look closely in the tread and you will see the outline of the square plug. Take a sharp ice pick or other thin blade tool and tap it into the seam, you can pry these up they just snap in. Remove the screws underneath and the step will come right up. There is one screw near the front that is not in the tread it is hidden by a round plug. You will see it if you look.

  • Were you ever able to find a solution..... I have an 06 sprinter doing the exact same thing.
  • I am replacing the oem horn on 2005-06 2500 Dodge sprinter and the replacement has a relay. I can't find a relay in line for the original but don't want to install two relays. Does the original have a relay for the horn? Thanks.
  • When I replaced mine. I used the orginal horn circuit to activate the new horn's
    relay and then ran a direct fused line to the battery to supply current for the
    horn. This avoided having to mess with the truck wiring and allows the orginal
    horn to be replaced if necessary.
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