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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair



  • ncsokncsok Posts: 1
    you're pretty lucky spending only about a grand out of repairs on your beetle. I myself own a 2000 1.8 turbo beetle used from one previous owner who also barely drives it in 2002. A year after the check engine light appears only to disappear a weak later. Before you know it, the car just doesn't want to drive and dark clouds of smoke puffs out of the exhaust. I brought it to a trusty mechanic and spent 1,200 for a new turbo all together because of oil build up that clogged the turbo. Just to make this long story short, I spent well over 2 grand on problems that shouldn't have happened and my car is now at a shop awaiting another 300 for a new oil pump and repairs on a leaking exhaust. :sick:
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I had this happen on an old Chevy Suburban. The window that literally shattered into a million pieces was a fixed rear side window. In this case slight over pressure when closing the driver's door caused it. I believe the reason for this is badly tempered glass (internal stresses trapped in the glass after manufacture and not relieved properly by heat treatment). Recently Nissan had problems with glass sunroof panels shattering on their own without warning.
  • Some Beetles have problems, some have major problems, and some have none. I have almost 90K on my 2000 TDI. I have had a few problems but none that were as bad as the last couple of posts here. The larger issue with VW/Audi's is the dealers. There are three VW dealers in my area and none of them have a clue how to service there own cars. My check engine light came on and the VW service department charged my $85 to tell me that my glow plugs were bad, after only about 15K on the second set. First I told them to change them, but guess what? They did not have any plugs in stock and wanted about $400 to change them when the did come in. I found them on-line for less than $20 each. Pulled the engine housing and discovered that the stupid machanic did not put the plug harness back on all four plugs. Good thing I don't live in the snowbelt! I replaced the four plugs in about 10 minutes and am happily motoring down the road.
  • orbugorbug Posts: 1
    When I accelerate my 2003 turbo convertable it hesitates around 2-3000 RPM. It almost feels like the turbo shuts off and then it kicks back in and everything is fine. The dealer first said that nothing is showing up on the computer and that I should try my 40,000 mile service (for $500) to see if it fixes it. Anybody out there have a similiar problem or advice? Thanks
  • hamadahamada Posts: 1
    i got another motor for my polo car but i cant get it running because i didnt know its controle code number or its emoblizer code number so i am asking any one have exceperince to tell me how can i get this codes.
  • padudadpadudad Posts: 1
    My daughter has 2001 Beetle. Just started giving her problems with the shift. Started the car and couldn't get it out of park. Had to keep trying until it moved. Anyone know what's happening? Someone told me might be linkage?
    Any help is appreciated.
  • HELP! I have a 2001 VW New Beattle Turbo -- I only drive the car on weekends AND it is my second car. If i don't start it every 3-4 days the battery dies and I have to jump it. Am i the only one with this problem? This has happened since i first bought the car. I use it mainly when it snows instead of driving my sports car. Someone told me that this was a known problem with the Beattle....

    The dealer gave me a solar charger but that did not work either. Any suggestions? I'm sick of the car and was planning to sell it and buy another car. :mad:
  • bmcneillbmcneill Posts: 3
    my wife has a 99 beetle and its having trouble in 2nd gear going into 3rd gear.
    it revs up to 4000rpms trying to get to 35mph and once it does it jerks into 3rd and it wont go past 45mph. The folks at the VW dealership claim that the transmisson fluid has a lifetime guarantee, i think it's bull. What im saying is i think its a transmission problem. Can the transmission be flushed out and changed is my question.
  • Hello my name is Lestat.

    I was thinking of purchasing a HHR but after speaking with the dealership I did not like the amount of money they were asking for. Plus the car is to new no one knows what will go wrong as off yet. I am now interested in a beatle 99-03 I don't know which trim though. What I wanna know is what are there any major problems that these cars have and how well they handle in the snow?
  • For those of you who are kindly inquiring and those Beetle-bashing from a lack of understanding, here is a very simple explanation and hopeful solution to those puzzled and plagued with indicator lights on the New Beetle. Your car is actually very has a BRAIN! The system it uses is employed by most foreign and domestic cars and the computer, or OBD system, just like your brain (maybe smarter) has sensors located throughout the car just as your body has nerve endings to tell you when something hurts or is not right. The solution to finding out what's wrong with your brain/nervous system requires a cat scan or MRI to narrow it down. The OBD system is much more accurate and can pinpoint the problem quickly, and is used by your dealership with expensive diagnostic equipment and that cost with labor is passed down to you who are not fix it yourself the New Beetle is what you do. Buy an OBDI/II mini code reader FOR YOUR VW MODEL/YEAR..these can be had on ebay and auto parts stores for under $100. It plugs in to your OBD port under the dash via a 16 pin socket and reads your car's "brain" or error codes and displays them in numeric form. You write these down. If you leave the unit attached, it will clear and extinguish the trouble lights, i.e. Check Engine, Airbag, etc..BUT that does NOT mean the problem is fixed. You take the numbers it displayed, and cross-reference it to the VW diagnostics guide. If you can repair the problem yourself, fine..if not, at least you can go into the Service Dept. knowing what problem(s) YOU found. These also come in very handy when shopping for used cars as you know right away what troubles it has or could have. Be sure the model you get is for your car and follow instructions!(Very easy to use) Hope that helped the masses with the light problems. :)
  • sisybugsisybug Posts: 1
    I'm trying to find a stroller for my infant that will fit in my Beetle. There's no way to really know if something will fit until I try it. Needless to say, I already own one stroller that doesn't fit. Looking at other models and comparing them to the measurements of the one I have, I don't know if ANY stroller other than a cheap umbrella stroller (which won't work for an infant) will fit.

    Has anyone successfully fit a stroller in their Beetle? If so, what brand/model was it?
  • manraymanray Posts: 8
    I don't think Beetle owners are "Beetle bashing", we are just trying to find resolutions to frustrating problems. I own a 2001 New Beetle that I LOVE; however, it does give me some problems. Nothing major, but still annoying and sometimes costly. My blue temperature light and oil light both come on when I am in stop and go traffic. Of course I have asked the dealer about it many times and they have no idea what it is, so I have to hear those loud beeps everyday. I do thank you for offering a beginning to a solution, but it is NOT a solution. I have read enough posts to see that many Beetle owners have very similar problems, so the dealers should not shrug their shoulders when confronted with customers.
  • kirtleykirtley Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 Beetle, 2.0L. It has been a dream for my daughter - a college student. Recently, someone backed into the R rear marker light. I bought a news lens but can't find a way to get to it to change. Anyone willing to share the secret steps and route to change that light?


  • I'm looking at the Bentley Manual for the New Beetle. It states that you must remove the right rear wheel and remove the wheel housing liner. This is done by removing the seven screws around the inner perimeter of the skirt, the hex nut at the top of the skirt and prying out the spreader nut located just inside of the outer perimeter towards the rear of the skirt. Don't forget to re-torque the wheel lug nuts to 75 ft./lbs. when re-assembling. If you have the Bentley manual, it is illustrated in full on page 66-6. If you need to change the lamp, turn the lamp holder counter-clockwise to disengage. Try not to touch the new lamp with your hand...Alan
  • wgilbertwgilbert Posts: 1
    I wasnt not thinking and put reg. gas in deisel engine tank. I have called my local dealership they informed me that they would need to flush out my fuel tank and fuel injector, and that it would be $500. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this and knows how to flush an engine and fuel injector, please contact me if any knowa anything my email is thank you.
  • Don't know anything about the procedure to flush out tank and injectors, but I certainly would NOT drive it anywhere (even to a repair facility). It's possible you would do far more damage to your car. I'd phone a few local independent garages to find a less expensive estimate. Have it towed if that's an option.
  • todd17todd17 Posts: 4
    Yesterday the Red temp light came on and started beeping. I pulled the car over and checked the coolant level, but it seems to be good. The Check Engine light has also came on now. Any ideas on what might be wrong?
  • nscrbugnscrbug Posts: 16
    I have a 99 2.0 GLS with 48K miles, bought new in 1999. For the past few months I've been hearing a 'thud' coming from somewhere underneath the car. It's more prominent on bumpy roads. I took the car to a VW mechanic and they put it up on the rack...they said the only thing that looked as though it needed attention were the lower ball joints. There was some "slack" in them...I was told. Everything else looked good from what the mechanic told me. Today, I had the lower ball joints replaced. As I'm driving home from the autoshop...I hear the familiar 'thud' again. I was really hoping that replacing the ball joints would have taken care of that annoying thud...I guess not. Does anybody have any other ideas as to what might be causing this 'thud'? It's kind of a hollow-sounding thud, if that helps any. The mechanic checked the entire underside of the car and said everything looked nice and tight...except those ball joints which they replaced. Any ideas??? Thanks!

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Read consumer reports. AS for problems with these cars, I do not have enough room here to list them all.
  • dupiedogdupiedog Posts: 2
    The salvage yard I keep books for just got in a 99 New Beetle that side swiped a semi. They are fixing the damage ( side panels and fender, nothing damaged in motor area or frame). They want $6000 for it and I am considering buying. The problem I find when test driving it, is an occassional jerk (as if driving too slow in a fast gear). The guys can't seem to get it to do it, just me but they say it is because I'm a woman imagining problems. What do you think about price and what could the jerk problem be? Thank you in advance to anyone who answers.
  • Well, you don't say what motor or tranny it has. Mileage would tell us more about the price value ($6,000 might be tall money for that car). If you notice "an occaisional jerk" then it is real no matter what your co-workers say. If it's not operating properly, I wonder why the "Check Engine" Lamp isn't lighting up. Those CEL's seem to light up at the drop of a hat...Do ALL the dash lights light up when you turn the ignition on? They should...
  • nscrbugnscrbug Posts: 16
    I know this is probably a silly question to ask...especially since I'm the owner of a 99 Beetle plagued with many of the problems discussed here on this forum, but...just out of curiosity...has VW made ANY improvements at all on the 06 models or in their customer service? My NB has been out of warranty for 5 years now, so for most of my problems I just take it to an autoshop that specializes in foreign car repair. The less I have to deal with my dealer, the better! However, I have been seriously contemplating the thought of trading in for a new car and have been pricing out the usual suspects...Mazda3, Scion tC, Civic coupe, Acura RSX, and much as it pains me to say this, the 06 Beetle. It seems they added lots more features ($$$) from when I got mine back in 99. How is the 2.5L 5cyl engine? Is it as troublesome as the earlier 2.0 and 1.8T engines? I keep telling myself that I would NEVER buy another VW, but here I am considering it! Should I listen to my instincts, and run far away from VW's? :confuse:

  • dupiedogdupiedog Posts: 2
    The car has a 5 speed stick shift and has 84000 miles on it. The only light that comes on is a water light but it goes off soon after starting the car. My employer is really pushing this car on me, he is having it "spit shined" and really praising the fact that he is "letting me have it under price". My first car (in 1974) was a Beetle and I'm afraid I will let myself get talked into buying this one and could be sorry. I know NOTHING about cars other than turn the key and go so I really appreciate your advice.
  • My Beetle is a '99 GLS stick with 50k. miles. When you turn the ignition to the ON position, ALL the dash lamps should illuminate, then go dark except the blue TEMP light. If you know little about repairing cars, you should likely avoid this car. Of greatest concern is whether the 60k. mi. service has been performed. This entails the all important timing belt and tensioner changed. Beetles that don't get their prescribed maintenance in a timely fashion seem to exact their revenge in very expensive ways. If this car will have a "salvage" title appended to it, then it would be difficult to resell (and is worth FAR less than a regular used Beetle). Dealer service for these is can be quite expensive as it is. Personally, I am leery of purchasing other people's woes. Buying used Beetles are a real crapshoot as it is. Get as much information on this car as possible (including a CARFAX report). Proceed very cautiously, if at all...
  • fin13fin13 Posts: 1
    I had the same thing. it was the level of the coolent went below the level of the sensors. I had to top off the coolent level and have not had it happen since.
  • davidhlddavidhld Posts: 1
    Im having ptoblems trying to change my brakes the calipers on the brakes will not stay down long enough for me to install the brakes. I have the special tool to rotate and compress the calipers. Ive disconnected the fluid line and it still springs back before I can do anything. What am I doing wrong?
  • aarnoldaarnold Posts: 10
    i have a 2001 vw turbo with a burned out back up light. does any one have a clue as to how to change this light?
  • aarnoldaarnold Posts: 10
    my 2001 vw beetle has a trunk light that doesn't work. the light is good but i can't find the fuse. any one have a clue as to where it is and to which one it is?
  • To change taillamps on our VW's you need to open the hatch. Inside, behind the license plate, beneath the trunk seal area is a short wide interior panel. Try to pull this panel up. Use a screwdriver and pry the clips to remove this panel. Reach behind the quarter panel trim and unscrew the taillight mounting nut by hand. Don't let the washer or spacer fall down. Now you can remove the entire taillight and remove the wire harness. Remove the lamp by turning the lamp holder counter-clockwise...
  • aarnoldaarnold Posts: 10
    may be i said it wrong, i am trying to change the reverse light not the tail light.
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