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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair



  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Perhaps the switch that turns the light on when you open the trunk is sticking at random. Since you changed the bulb and the wiring seems to be OK, that's the next thing I'd look at. I had a dome light that was not coming on randomly and it was simply the switch in the door frame being gunked up and sticking a bit.
  • aarnoldaarnold Member Posts: 10
    where exactly is the switch located? i've looked but can't find it. Thanks for the help!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I beleive the switch is in the latch... just like the passenger-doors have all the switches for the alarm-system and interiour lights. (In-fact, the Hood and Trunk are part of the alarm-system too!)
  • huntingtigerhuntingtiger Member Posts: 2
    Annoyed with about 40ml clear water dropped from the middle bottom. What happened to my car ? Please anyone help ?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Do you mean UNDERNEATH the vehicle? This could be the AC condenser drain or the sunroof drain. Both of these should be considerd normal for any car.
  • huntingtigerhuntingtiger Member Posts: 2
    Hi bpeebles,

    It is underneath my car the water drops from the bottom middle location. Thanks.
  • stratolinerstratoliner Member Posts: 2
    Im trying to fix up a 1968 VW Bug, and I want to change the oil filled canister/filter that is placed on top of the carburetor into a pleated air filter. How do I do it?
  • stratolinerstratoliner Member Posts: 2
    How do I wire in new Alternator with an internal regulator? I have the original one still in the engine. From a 1968 VW bug.
  • rmd122rmd122 Member Posts: 21
    I ahve an 08 convertible. Is there any way to disable the auto door locks? Only the driver's one unlocks when you put it in park which means the passenger door has to be unlocked every time there is a passenger.
  • bullwinkle54bullwinkle54 Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    I had a wire short going to my rear passenger side blinker. Resolved the issue and replaced the fuse. All works well now except when I use my keyless entry the lights don't flash any more. Is there another fuse I should be replacing and if so does anyone know which one? I have check about 20 fuses so far and can't seem to find any that are shorted. Thanks
    Sorry forgot to mention it is a 2005 Turbo Diesel Beetle
  • sportagirl91sportagirl91 Member Posts: 1
    Same thing happened to me in my 2000 beetle for a while. then, when the alarm was going off one day, the water heater melted...
    turns out there was some sort of hose or something not hooked up precisely.
    it was about 2000 dollars to fix.
  • lvigorskylvigorsky Member Posts: 1
    The headlight warning chime is no longer working on my 99 Beetle. I discovered this after leaving my lights on one rainy day. My mechanic (not dealer) says I need a whole driver door lock assembly. Is the chime warming really in the door lock/handle/latch?

    There are other small things not working which are related to the latch and the only thing I really want repaired is the headlight on chime. I'm posting to ask for verification that replacing the door latch will restore the warning signal.

    I bought it new, love this car, and have taken good care of it.
  • 2002beetle2002beetle Member Posts: 1
    My daughter is the proud (I think) owner of a 2002 beetle with approx 70K miles. The car seems to be in good shape but last week the 3 small, drivers side motor mount bolts broke and the motor dropped approx 2" down. The aluminum bolts broke off inside the trans. housing. The dealers I contacted for new bolts said they have seen this before but wouldn't admit how often. The nightmare began as two bolts came out with and easyout, while the 3rd had to be drilled and tapped because even heat wouldn't remove the bolt which could have been fatal to the tranny. The steel skid plate covering the tranny didn't show any significant signs of running oversomething on the drivers side.
    Appreciate anyone who had this drama respond, needless to say the CVC joints had to be replaced . The aluminum bolts seem way undersized to carry half the engine. Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited January 2011
    My daughter has 2001 NB (New Beetle) with over 100K miles.

    tisk tisk.... Those are very special Torque To Yield bolts that MUST be replaced if they are removed. (Using only the replacement bolts supplied by VW) This is becasue they are designed to s-t-r-e-t-c-h when they are tightned. The bolts end up in an elastic state. This ends up with a constant tension on the connected components.

    BTW: These bolts are not aluminum! The xmission housing is Aluminum.

    The reason they break is because someone has REUSED them after they were removed.... perhaps to perform a timing-belt replacement. They get stretched agan beyond the point of yielding (to the breaking point). Or some of them loosen and put all the stress on the other bolts.

    If a VW dealer does not know why they break... then I would be wary of that shop. (They should know why)

    A situation like this would make me suspect that a timing belt change was perhaps done "on the cheep" and may not have replaced all the pullies, seals, waterpump and other items that should be replaced during a timing-belt change.

    For a 2002... I beleive the timing-belt should have been reciently replaced at your 70K mile mark.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Here is another link specificly discussing the New Beetle motor-mounts.

    One appender to the above suggests that dealerships are notorious for NOT replacing the TTY (Torque To Yield) bolts.... and then charge people for the resulting bolt failure.
  • bigmerc44bigmerc44 Member Posts: 1
    Does anybody know where the air bag computer module is on a 05 VW new beetle convertible with a automatic on the floor!
  • rbugchicrbugchic Member Posts: 2
    my 2003 turbo beetle had a similar problem. my mechanic said that i didn't use the correct spark plugs and that's why it was missing. they replaced with plugs and it seems ok. mechanic says vw's like certain spark plugs....maybe bosch.....they could be right. german cars can be finicky! have you had other problems w/ the bug? my gas door won't open....
  • csmyliecsmylie Member Posts: 1
    Hi!...did you ever find out what was causing the problem? Was it ever finally fixed? I just bought a 2006 VW new beetle convertible and the red temp light comes on when I start it (sometimes), then flashes, beeps, and stops after a minute...hasn't come on when driving (yet) and the coolant level seems fine, no obvious leaks anywhere... I'm terrified something is wrong, but hopeful it's nothing since the beeps stop, it drives fine and others seem to have had the same issue... :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited May 2011
    That is not a big deal. Most often this is caused by the antifreeze being a little low in the resivour.

    1)When you 1st start the car, the antifreeze is so low that it triggers the alert.
    2)After running the engine for awhile, the antifreeze heats up and expands. This expansion "fills" the resivour enough to turn off the alert.

    Since VWs REQUIRE special "G12" antifreeze and there is no substitute... I would suggest you add no more than about 1/2 cup of distilled water to bring the level up a bit. (or purchase and mix with distilled-water your own batch of "G12" antifreeze)

    Of course - do this when engine is stone-cold so your level-reading is accurate. As the engine warms up, the antifreeze level goes up.
  • angeloaangeloa Member Posts: 1
    My daughter's 2007 Beetle's park frame's lights all go on instead of just the light reflecting the position of the transmission eg. park or reverse or drive, etc. It seems to be an electrical problem that also prevents the manual mode on her automatic transmission from working. Has anyone encountered a problem like that, or does anyone know of sombody who has?
  • chantalbelairechantalbelaire Member Posts: 1
    ">I bought this car used about 2 years ago, and wish I had never bought the darn car. I have had so many problems with it and make $360.00 payments on it. The convertible does not work at all and the car only has 69,000 miles on it. I have an anti-freeze leak, vacuum leak on engine, heated oxygen sensor, left speaker does not work. The back window separated from the convertible top, passenger side windshield wiper does not work. Had to replace fuel pump and battery last year and cost me a fortune. This car is a piece of crap. I am going to the dealership with my list and complain. The extended warranty expired in June and before it did expire, I had it at VW dealer and they would not fix the convertible. What a shame to be paying all of the money to be cute!!
  • lylarose13lylarose13 Member Posts: 1
    A freaking men. Thank you for this. I too have experienced horrible problems, and like you and your $1.00. I wouldn't drive a brand new one even if it was given to me for free. I am serious. Since owning my Beetle I have had starter issues, chipping of interior plastic, non working rear view mirrors, botched plastic engine protectors(no matter how careful I drive.) Three different batteries, a burned fuse box, non working air conditioner, non working stereo(then when I replaced it with an after market it has cost me double to have smog checks etc because the Smog Check Check Battery line is ran thru the stereo WHO DOES THAT?) Also random broken parts thru out the car(like the electric window switch.) Tail lights always break(thank got we figured it our ourselves. ) This caused me a fix it ticket from a cop which made me take time off work to fix. I have also had problems with musty odors smelling like crayons, and chipped interior paint. GROSS! Oil burning issues(that YOU DARE TO SAY ARE NORMAL?) ARE you kidding me? I get to spend 20 to 30 bucks a month filling my low levels of oil because you say it's normal for cars to burn oil? PLEASE. I NOW HAVE TRANSMISSION problems which will in fact cost me close to 6000 and they aren't even going to guarantee it will work after that because they are saying that the transmission problems can also be computer issues that even a rebuilt new one won't fix. Got the car used at 39,000 miles NOW it only has 70,000 and it's not drivable. I just paid it off and now it sits. How unfair is that? I have to go into another loan for NOTHING. What a waste. The steering is wobbly too and the sound of clanking when I break down on the breaks is really noticeable and has been for years. Apparently nobody knows what that noise is but I have heard people have the same problems on here. VW should be ashamed of themselves. I can't believe they still put cars on the market.
  • kssdkssd Member Posts: 2

    I am having the same problem and this only happens when the weather gets under 30 degrees or about there. Now once the weather warms up it will start , did you ever find a solution to your start up issues? Thanks for your reply.

  • gearhead9992gearhead9992 Member Posts: 1
    yea my gf had the same problem she had a coolant leak looking from the front the right side of the engine is the coolant flang it just lookes like a junction piece it bolts to the engine block also on top of the part is your coolant temp sensor if its not green replace it they updated it and do you have a coolant leak?
  • firefly531firefly531 Member Posts: 2
    Do Beetles have a history of catching on fire? I saw one on the side of the highway two nights ago in Chicago that was going up in blazes, and have seen a few others on fire when I googled this question. I'm worried about its safety if this is something that happens very often. Does anyone know?
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Not sure that I'd use a Google search as a basis to decide whether something is common or rare. I would wager that Beetles catch fire at the same rate as pretty much any other vehicle. I'm always cautious when I see a "trend" on a supposed problem on the internet.

    Owners experiencing problems or issues with a vehicle are certainly more likely to make noise about it than those who simply like their car. That can sure make it seem like more cars have an "issue" than they really do.
  • firefly531firefly531 Member Posts: 2
    I'm looking to buy a new car and need advice...it's between the new VW Beetle, Mini Cooper, Chevy Cruise and the Chevy Sonic. Any opinions out there re. what I should buy new?

    I'm concerned about expensive repairs once the warranty runs out. I've heard bad things about the Cooper and VW re. expensive repairs

    Also concerned about gas mileage - not good with the VW Beetle.


    Cost...The Chevy Sonic is much less expensive to purchase than anything else, and repairs are probably less too. Mileage is great. But the VW and Cooper are so much cuter and more fun.

    I need some advice! Thanks!
  • rbugchicrbugchic Member Posts: 2
    I liked the mini coopers too but alot of people have told me they need a lot of time in the garage. Garage here that repairs them told me to set aside $3,000/year for maintenance. Luv my bug! Have had it for 10 years and now the repairs are starting but it is 10 years old so I definitely got my money's worth. Never owned a Chevy before. Japanese cars before my bug! Good Luck
  • belaircarguybelaircarguy Member Posts: 107
    While all these suggested cars are good, I own 3 VW's (one New Beetle Convertible - 2008, and two Jettas (2007 and 2009). Soon will have a 2012 Passat in the garage (trading one Jetta). For fun to drive - tight bodies- no rattles- a joy to drive ----- go with a VW! I enjoy all three and all drive as good as the day they were new. Also - VW's have great seating comfort and although a small car, I would not hesitate driving one for a very long trip. I routinely drive my Jetta for sales calls, and will drive 3-6 hours without issue or back fatigue! I cannot say that about some previous cars I have owned, including two Toyota Camrys (terrible seat comfort for long trips).

    Bel Air Cary Guy
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I can 'second' that ... for long trips (over 6 hours), my VW Jetta TDI is astounding.

    We once went from Vermont - Colorado - Vermont and the engine never cooled off. 3 drivers taking turns on the way to CO. and 4 drivers coming back to VT.

    The 750+ miles per tank of fuel made the trip not too expensive either.
  • muncymuncy Member Posts: 10
    hi i know its been awhile sence your stalling problem but did you ever find the problem with it
  • muncymuncy Member Posts: 10
    stalling problem, stalls then need to wait 20 mins or so till it starts, got codes that my evap emission control sys malfunction, please help
  • cassi2cassi2 Member Posts: 3
    I would like to know what the VW dealers are trying to do to the buying public. I had to have the rotors turned on my Beetle, I call the dealer $438 to turn the front rotors. ,I called a second dealer $486 to replace front rotors. New rotors on Internet about $150. Took my car to a local mechanical asked if he could work on my Beetle's brakes he said sure. Left my car 2 hours later he called said my car was ready . He turned all four rotors for $130, $60 labor. So you tell me, what a rip off the dealers doing. How an you continue to sell cars on rip the public on maintenance. Had the same thing happen on replacing headlamp. Owners manual just throw it away all it will tell you is take it to a dealer. VERY, VERY unhappy with VW.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Noone is twisting your arm to take it to dealership. However, at the same time, VWs do need an 'experienced' mechanic because they have some unique maintenance requirements. (Most of the fluids are unique)

    Personally, I have always changed my own rotors/pads. For less than $200, I can have VERY high quality Zimmerman rotors and Akebono pads on all 4 corners. My wife helps bleed the hydrolic system by pumping the brake-pedal as I crack open the bleeder-nipples.

    When your 2003 VW needs timing-belt change ... do NOT go for the cheapest offer out there. While it is apart, EVERY moving part needs to be replaced... lest you may have troubles later. If you do some research, you will find some competent VW mechanics to perform this critical job.
  • cassi2cassi2 Member Posts: 3
    I never said anyone was twisting my arm to take the car to the dealer. What I was saying was the dealers are ripping the costumers off with their high labor prices. It would be nice to take your car to the dealer to have work done at a fair price. Not a problem for you guy's that can do your own work, but for people who can't or don't have the time it makes a big difference. What is honest about charging or $300 labor to change out 2 rotors.
  • jimbo142345jimbo142345 Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2013
    hello my 65 vw isnt getting any spark, i replaced the tranny and when i put it together it wouldnt crank, it was fine before.ive tried everything ive replaced the condenser idk if maybe i got a bad one, im pretty sure the points look fine and the cap and button and wires are brand new. ive tried different coils and the wiring is pretty self exlpanatory,ive checked it over a million times this has been driving me nuts for weeks.and then i thought about the ground from the tranny, and i d guess that grounds everhything on the motor. so i found the strap on my old tranny and couldnt find a metric nut to attach it to the screw where it goes so for temp. i ran a ground wire from the battery, ive tried it many ways tryng to make just the coil spark. and havent been able to, ive tried many coils, i have a new style alternator and internal regulator. if you got any ideas please help me. i feel retarted but this is a tricky one and i cnat figure it out. ive got a test light but im gonna get a 9volt for my multimeter to figuure this one out
  • dee119dee119 Member Posts: 2
    I Just bought a used 2005 turbo convertible and I'm having the same probs. I took it to the dealer after reading all the blogs on the possible problems and at first the mechanic tells me there is no fix. Then I mention the recall, which expired in 2011. And suddenly he knows what I'm taking about. My car stalls and recovers even on the freeway at 80mph. He wanted to replace the fuel pump at first, his diagnosis, but I told him that from what I've read, others have replaced the MAF, fuel filter and fuel pump but and the problem still exist. I wasn't comfortable guessing at what the prob could be. Of course, there are no error codes which I already knew that because I had taken it to my own mechanic. The dealer tells me to try to call customer service and maybe they will help me. I do call the and get a rehearsed answer from the rep so I call corporate and get a very nice lady, Emily Goga but when she calls the dealer they tell her they suspect a different transmission problem other than the valve recalled part! And I have to pay $120 for the dealer to diagnose the problem, she won't take my mechanics word. But that VW in no way could help with the cost because the extended warranty has expired. On top of that my airbag light has come on and they want $600 for a module that has gone bad. In my opinion, VW is ok with having unsafe vehicles on the road.
  • antique3antique3 Member Posts: 2
    My VW beetle is acting up.... Occasionally when driving the steering wheel begins to shake with or without pushing B. pedal, and at the same time, the brakes pedal feels hard when pressed plus the brakes are grabbing the rotors eno9ugh to slow the car down to a stop.
    While stopped with car running, the car does not roll down a hill at all. But once I turn the car off for a few seconds and re start it, all is fine no shake in the steering wheel and brakes are fine and car will free roll if desired.... until the next time it happens...
    When the problem does happen , I can smell the burning of pads.
    Any feedback would help.
  • drummdudedrummdude Member Posts: 1
    Your CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK problem is CAN be an easy fix, your turn signal relay (part of the hazard light switch on your dash) is malfunctioning because of excessive dust build up in the turn signal switch (lever).
    Try using compressed air to clear it first, as it's the least expensive solution.
    (Free - $6.99)

    If that doesn't do it the next step is to replace the turn signal relay/hazard light switch. I bought the part for $36 from our local vw dealer. If memory serves you will need a phillips and flat blade screwdriver. (If you have hex keys you may want to have them handy but those might have been for adjusting the headlights. I did both the same day!) It took about 40 minutes.

    If that also doesn't work, you've gotten so much dust and gunk in the turn signal selector that you'll need to replace it. I did not need to do this step, so I have no idea of the the cost, or what is involved in swapping it out. There is, however, a video on You Tube that shows the whole process!

    Good luck!
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