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I do believe that this will also work, I also changed the thermostat, and temp sensor, they were not expensive so I did them first and then the Fan Relay!! Your stalling problem just might be the IAC motor, (Idle Air Control) if not fuel injected, I'd go for the easy stuff first, fuel filter, EGR valve. With FI fuel filter, IAC, Mass Air Flow, last the fuel pump. If you don't already have one get yourself a chiltons or hayes repair book, I also use the inside cover and back to keep a log as to date, repair, cost mileage, and parts. Just make a small grid of the page and as you do things log them it. It's an easy way to keep track of what when and how you did the repair. Sure hope this helps, Good Luck Be Well Bill
I had a overheat problem in my 02 with an I6, turned out to be bad head or head gasket, had head machined under warrenty and all was well. If you see white smoke from exhaust, shut it off and have the dealer pick it up to prevent more damage. Did this start after you replaced the thermostat, Why was thermostat replaced. Old Mike
It is not horrible but it is aggravating and is affecting my gas mileage by 3-4 mpg.
The dealer has been as helpful as they can be but they are clueless and get no help form the computer.
The engine appears to misfire at all speeds but is most apparent from 40-60mph when the mds is engaged. You can't feel the misfire if you stomp on the accelerator and apparently this is how most service techs look for problems. I finally drove with my tech and told him how to drive in order to feel it. You typically feel it most under light acceleration. It does seem to be more noticeable early in the morning when the engine is cold but I live on back roads where there are more hill and conditions are better. On flat highways you have to pay close attention to the engine to notce it.
It feels like a classic engine misfire but with electronics controlling every part of the system I was not sure. I think some folks describe it a transmission surging but there is no real change in rpm.
So...I have replaced the spark plugs and wires set. Added fuel system/injector cleaner. I have also had the transmission flushed, PCM flashed and the dealer paid for the torque converter to be replaced but nothing seems to help. The dealer thought it could also be a bad valve spring and I did notice a layer of carbon in the throttle body but have no idea if that is normal.
If you have the same problem or any ideas that I could test on my own let me know.
2005 jeep grand cherokee 3.7L random misfire, only runs on 3 cylinders
Low compression and cylinder misfire in 4.7
SUVs and Smart Shopper
SUVs and Smart Shopper
$1000 plus diagnostic $180
I am in Inner Mongolia and nearest service is about 20 hr, drive.
I then took it to a shop and they said the PCM was defective. They replaced the PCM with a rebuilt unit and then the car would start and run but would not rev past 3,000 rpm at 3000rpm it would start sputering and backfiring. The shop said the Catalytic converter was clogged and they replaced it and told my wife that the car was repaired. She had to limp home with the car as it still has low power(must accelerate very slowly or engine bogs down)
and still will not rev past 3,000rpm.
I checked back pressure at O2 port is exhaust and there is none. I then checked the timing with a scanner and it shows 14 - 16 degrees advance at idle and increases to 40 degrees advance at 3,000rpm where it starts sputtering and backfiring. I then connected a timing light to check the timing at the crankshaft. It shows 0 degrees advance at idle and increases to 15 degrees advance at 3,000rpm.
I told the shop owner that the PCM that they installed must be defective and that I would pay the difference to replace it with a new PCM from Jeep, but he says that there is something else wrong with the car and he will have to diagnose it with an additional charge of course.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
Any other suggestions?
Apparently my friend is the only one that thinks the PCM is the problem so I'm leary of spending that money as the pile of good replaced parts gets higher.
The service manual says that at 25+ mph the airflow is enough to cool the engine. I have tested this by disconnecting the fan and with the radiator alone the temp will stay under 200 when driving 25+ mph. Once you stop..you'll over heat.
The engine will always overheat when idling if the electric fan is not working.
The cooling fan relay is under the right headlamp. It needs a really good ground connection to work. Take it off, scuff up the back and the fender where it connects to and ensure a good ground. Use an ohm meter to verify there's a good ground. Many relays have been replaced that were good. The new ones were just clean on the back side and had a better electrical ground connection.
Test the relay by turning having someone turn the AC on with the hood open to see if the fan turns on about 1-2 seconds after the AC is turned on.
The stock radiator will keep the engine cool at 25+ mph. If the fan is working and you're still overheating, then the water is not moving through the engine and radiator. Take the radiator cap off when cool and squeeze the lower radiator hose. You should get fluid to gurgle at the cap, if not the radiator could be clogged.
A 10mm socket will take off the thermostat housing. A thermostat is 10 bucks. Change it for good measure and be sure to change the gasket as well. Use a razor to scrape off the old gasket material.
If you're still overheating, the water pump could be bad. Prolonged overheating can mess up the impellers in the water pump.
Start with the electric fan first though....
Please give me an advice.
Soemtimes accompanied with a "cough".
Any successful solutions would be appreciated
Regarding the problem of hesitation, I am still pursuing a solution and am aiming at the fuel system as a possible culprit. The problem seems to occur only during warmup and above about 160degF it is not very pronounced although there is some engine "roughness" on acceleration.