Jeep Cherokee Grand Cherokee Engine and Performance Problems



  • billnickbillnick Member Posts: 10
    Hey John,
    I do believe that this will also work, I also changed the thermostat, and temp sensor, they were not expensive so I did them first and then the Fan Relay!! Your stalling problem just might be the IAC motor, (Idle Air Control) if not fuel injected, I'd go for the easy stuff first, fuel filter, EGR valve. With FI fuel filter, IAC, Mass Air Flow, last the fuel pump. If you don't already have one get yourself a chiltons or hayes repair book, I also use the inside cover and back to keep a log as to date, repair, cost mileage, and parts. Just make a small grid of the page and as you do things log them it. It's an easy way to keep track of what when and how you did the repair. Sure hope this helps, Good Luck Be Well Bill
  • john1991john1991 Member Posts: 3
    hey thanks bill for the tips. I have the inline six-cylinder w/o fuel injection. And I do hve a haynes manual for the thing. I'll try the fuel filter and such
    thanks!! :)
  • strohldestrohlde Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the post Bill! The random overheating had been driving us nuts. My wife found your post and fixed our jeep more or less by herself in about an hour.
  • juzjoshnujuzjoshnu Member Posts: 3
    I took my 2000 Jeep Grand cherkee mudding and after a while it overheated all the way into the red. I got out and saw that the radiator was caked with thick mud. After spraying it down it still overheated but generally only when going up hills. It cools back down just below the mid mark (210 degrees) during normal driving. I took it to the dealership and they replaced the clutch to the fan. It still overheats and now it makes a noise thats hard to explain. Its a loud blowing or air noise that usually only happens when I first start it and the first few seconds of driving; but now it does it all the time (during acceleration) no matter how long i've been driving it. I replaced the thermostat and it still overheats at most about 220 when going up hills. Does anyone have any suggestions to why its overheating and the noise. And what is the normal operating temprature. And is it normal for it to get hot when going up hills (I've never noticed this before but maybe just because I wasn't paying attention. Its a limited 4.7L V8
  • john1991john1991 Member Posts: 3
    My mother had an accident and totaled our overheating jeep a few days ago. she's okay but we are both so glad to be rid of that jeep. it was a complete :lemon:. i wont be investing in another jeep anytim soon.
  • billnickbillnick Member Posts: 10
    OutStanding Doug!!!!!! :D
  • billnickbillnick Member Posts: 10
    One thing what size thremostate did you install? And it normal to get warm going uphill but not to overheat and blow all the coolant all out. If it overheats at a stopsign or in slow traffic I'd go after the relay. Keep the raditator clean and I wouldn't worry about a 10 degree increase going up hill. Sorry I couldn't be of any other help. the noise that is a new one, but I will check my sources and see....Be Well Bill
  • juzjoshnujuzjoshnu Member Posts: 3
    Hey Bill. The thermostat I replaced was what Schucks auto supply recommended. It is a Stant 195 degree thermostat part number 36369. I say overheat but what I mean is it gets hot. It stays about 195 to 205 during normal driving, at a stop sign, slow traffic or just at an idol. It only gets hot when going up hill (up to about 220 - 225). As for the noise; I have owned a 2002 Jeep Liberty, 2002 Dodge Durango, 95 Dodge Ram, 97 Ford F-150, and of course the Jeep Grand Cherokee. I'm not sure about the liberty but I do remember the rest of them made the blowing noise when cold during the first few seconds of the first acceleration and then it went away; I figured its an SUV and Truck thing. My Grand Cherokee does it every time during all accelerations. It never used to make that noise all the time untill after it overheated. I didn't notice this untill the Jeep Dealership replaced the clutch to the fan. Do you think it could have something to do with that? And Do you know what the normal operating temprature should be?

  • shiloh33shiloh33 Member Posts: 2
    I have replaced my fan relay yesterday for the second time in under one year. The fan worked yesterday when I drove the Jeep and then stopped and today does not come on. I was in a drive thru yesterday and the car was idling and the thermostat went all the way to 260+. I have no idea what now to replace or where to replace it. I have heard that the coolant fan fuse or circuit might be the problem but seem to be at my wits end. Any help will be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • billnickbillnick Member Posts: 10
    I sure hope you got the 2nd one free, the after market relays are known to go bad sometimes that was the only reason I went and paid the shot for the jeep part, by any chance did you try and hot wire the fan to see if it will come on with constant power? You unplug the fan wiring beside the fan shroud and run a ground to the frame and a hot lead from the battery and see if the fan will come on and stay on. I have looked in the repair manual and it talks about a fuse but the only one I found was a breaker type in the power box under the hood, I'm not sure right now but I think it's right next to the abs fuse. I hope that helps you. Bill
  • juzjoshnujuzjoshnu Member Posts: 3
    In addition to the last message I posted I noticed today that when the ac is on the Jeep gets hot as well. It seems that any extra strain on the engine causes it to get hot. Any ideas?
  • afftafft Member Posts: 2
    Hi If its working at all then i recommend you to go to a local workshop and show it. dont wait wasting time replacing the parts which have never gone bad. i had the same issue.It use to heat up wn the car was idling on lights....i plannned to replaced the fan relay..but thing went wrong brfore that and my nightmare came true...the headgasket was gone...which costed me around 600(labor+parts)...there are lot of parts in cooling system which could have issue and you will find number of resolution on net with different solution which finallly confuses you more.. :)..m reallly sorry if i have confused you...
  • shiloh33shiloh33 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks to all who have responded to my post. I have hot wired the fan to the battery and it does not come on. So I will be taking it in to my mechanic tomorrow to diagnose my problem. Thanks again. :sick:
  • hayhayjenhayhayjen Member Posts: 3
    I am having some trouble is there anyone out there that can help me. I just had my relay switches changed and thermostat changed out and when I idle my vehicle is starting to overheat and I can't seem to leave my A/C running since that is what is making the gauge go past 210. Help very bad.
  • mf15mf15 Member Posts: 158
    Water pumpbad ,clogged cooling system,low coolant,theromastat in backwards if that is possible/bad theromostat.
    I had a overheat problem in my 02 with an I6, turned out to be bad head or head gasket, had head machined under warrenty and all was well. If you see white smoke from exhaust, shut it off and have the dealer pick it up to prevent more damage. Did this start after you replaced the thermostat, Why was thermostat replaced. Old Mike
  • hayhayjenhayhayjen Member Posts: 3
    I guess everything went down hill and did not stop once my relay switches were replaced by Firestone. I feel that nothing has been the same with my vehicle since then. I don't think I have a warranty anymore since it was a used vehicle. I changed the thermostat since my service light was on and did not go off and I took it to an Auto Zone to see if they could diagnose the problem and once I changed the thermostat the light went off and now this overheating issue is back on. My vehicle hates idling also.
  • slaught1slaught1 Member Posts: 8
    I have an 05 JGC ltd. and love it. All except for what I perceive to be an engine misfire.
    It is not horrible but it is aggravating and is affecting my gas mileage by 3-4 mpg.
    The dealer has been as helpful as they can be but they are clueless and get no help form the computer.

    The engine appears to misfire at all speeds but is most apparent from 40-60mph when the mds is engaged. You can't feel the misfire if you stomp on the accelerator and apparently this is how most service techs look for problems. I finally drove with my tech and told him how to drive in order to feel it. You typically feel it most under light acceleration. It does seem to be more noticeable early in the morning when the engine is cold but I live on back roads where there are more hill and conditions are better. On flat highways you have to pay close attention to the engine to notce it.

    It feels like a classic engine misfire but with electronics controlling every part of the system I was not sure. I think some folks describe it a transmission surging but there is no real change in rpm.

    So...I have replaced the spark plugs and wires set. Added fuel system/injector cleaner. I have also had the transmission flushed, PCM flashed and the dealer paid for the torque converter to be replaced but nothing seems to help. The dealer thought it could also be a bad valve spring and I did notice a layer of carbon in the throttle body but have no idea if that is normal.

    If you have the same problem or any ideas that I could test on my own let me know.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    These related discussions may help while you're waiting for a reply here:

    2005 jeep grand cherokee 3.7L random misfire, only runs on 3 cylinders

    Low compression and cylinder misfire in 4.7

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • hemified05hemified05 Member Posts: 7
    I have been looking at a cold air intake system for my 2005 JGC 5.7. I have seen a few versions. What I am looking for is some testimonials and or complaints. Do they really give you more HP, and do they help with Gas Mileage??? What about dry vs. oiled??? Thanks for any input you may have, I greatly appreciate it.
  • hemified05hemified05 Member Posts: 7
    I have been looking at a cold air intake system for my 2005 JGC 5.7. I have seen a few versions. What I am looking for is some testimonials and or complaints. Do they really give you more HP, and do they help with Gas Mileage??? What about dry vs. oiled??? Thanks for any input you may have, I greatly appreciate it.
  • slaught1slaught1 Member Posts: 8
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Please continue the cold air intake discussion here: hemified05, "Cold air Intake systems for HEMI" #1, 8 Aug 2007 5:00 pm

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • tduff67tduff67 Member Posts: 1
    I put the K&N system on my 07 HEMI. It did add about .5 MPG but also made the intake very loud under throttle. I also switched to full synthetic oil and that added about 1 mpg. As for wet vs. dry filters, I have used K&N's wet filters on every vehicle I have owned for the last 10 years or so. You RARELY have to clean them and I have always got at least a little bump in power and mileage.
  • hemified05hemified05 Member Posts: 7
  • almgjkalmgjk Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem, its the engine control computer. The ground feed to the fan control module is lost from the ecm when the a/c system is run for the about 30 minutes.
    $1000 plus diagnostic $180
  • pj95pj95 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 07 grand cherokee 4.7l v8 with 2000 miles and if i use regular gas i get little hesitations while accelarating when i used super it seemed to go away and in the manual it says 87 is fine to use is this a problem or is it normal.
  • karpcatchrkarpcatchr Member Posts: 4
    1993 Jeep cherokee overheating. Changed water pump, and fan clutch, did pressure check on ststem, put on a new head gasket. Still overheated, took out the thermostat, put it back together without one, changed the antifreeze solution to the water wetter and water. Still overheats. Will run at about 230 at 45 MPH, but turn on the air or go faster, temp climbs. Electric fan is running. HELP!!!!!!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    rad proble is cause part pluged
  • karpcatchrkarpcatchr Member Posts: 4
    thanks, i flushed it with the hose, guess I need to get it power flushed
  • jcampionjcampion Member Posts: 3
  • bonnyclubberbonnyclubber Member Posts: 1
    It not the thermostat, or pump, Its the coolent level sensor in the overflow/resovor, should read 3300k ohms, the plug that goes into the back of the screen, under the radio,controls, has a picture of the viechal, tells when a door is open ect... the #1 terminal goes to the coolent level sensor, try cleaning the connector, that usually fixes it, if not sheck the wires. If it;s a light on dash...same.....
  • bfritzbfritz Member Posts: 1
    Over last 2 weeks my oil pressure has gone up to a point where it is on H when highway driving at 110 klms. Seems to be ok but am concerned and not near a service depot. Any suggestions or advice appreciated, hate to get stranded out in the sticks here.
    I am in Inner Mongolia and nearest service is about 20 hr, drive.
  • landj68landj68 Member Posts: 6
    My 94 JGC 4.0L quit while driving just like the key was turned off. I found no spark from coil, further testing showed no signal from PCM to the coil. I sent out my PCM to be repaired and when it came back I still had the same problem.

    I then took it to a shop and they said the PCM was defective. They replaced the PCM with a rebuilt unit and then the car would start and run but would not rev past 3,000 rpm at 3000rpm it would start sputering and backfiring. The shop said the Catalytic converter was clogged and they replaced it and told my wife that the car was repaired. She had to limp home with the car as it still has low power(must accelerate very slowly or engine bogs down)
    and still will not rev past 3,000rpm.

    I checked back pressure at O2 port is exhaust and there is none. I then checked the timing with a scanner and it shows 14 - 16 degrees advance at idle and increases to 40 degrees advance at 3,000rpm where it starts sputtering and backfiring. I then connected a timing light to check the timing at the crankshaft. It shows 0 degrees advance at idle and increases to 15 degrees advance at 3,000rpm.

    I told the shop owner that the PCM that they installed must be defective and that I would pay the difference to replace it with a new PCM from Jeep, but he says that there is something else wrong with the car and he will have to diagnose it with an additional charge of course.

    Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    prob is the senser that is in the distrubater
  • landj68landj68 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the suggestion. Got the sensor (camshaft position sensor)from Autozone this morning and replaced it but I still have the same problem.

    Any other suggestions?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    throtal pos sencer or crank sencer would try tps first
  • landj68landj68 Member Posts: 6
    Well, I replaced the throttle position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor today and still no change. My friend tells me that the PCM is the only device that controls the timing and since the timing is WAY retarded it has to be the culprit, but that part is $275.00 since the shop that put this one in says they will not replace it because they don't think it is the problem.

    Apparently my friend is the only one that thinks the PCM is the problem so I'm leary of spending that money as the pile of good replaced parts gets higher.
  • patkellpatkell Member Posts: 2
    We had this problem on our 93 Dodge Caravan. After a year of different mechanics, finally found someone who told us that after market cam sensors seat in to close to the cam. Try pulling it out just a dime thickness and see if that works. Good luck.
  • ocjeepguyocjeepguy Member Posts: 3
    I've had a few overheating problems in my 00 JGC. Here's how to diagnose... Let the Jeep idle and watch the thermostat. At 190 degrees, the fan should turn on at low RPM. At 210+ the fan should go on high RPM. If that fails you'll need to trouble shoot the fan relay. The location can be found at My relay had a bad ground connection (rusted) and once a proper ground was established, the fan worked properly and no more overheating. The fan should turn on when the AC switched on. This is a good relay test if you don't want to wait for the temp to come up. Check the connector to the relay, mine had evidence of arcing and I replaced the connector. If the fan is running and you're still overheating, it's time to get the radiator looked at. 700 bucks for radiator at the dealer, online for under 200 and takes 1-2 hours to replace.

    The service manual says that at 25+ mph the airflow is enough to cool the engine. I have tested this by disconnecting the fan and with the radiator alone the temp will stay under 200 when driving 25+ mph. Once you'll over heat.

    Good luck.
  • ocjeepguyocjeepguy Member Posts: 3
    The electic cooling fan should come on @ 190 degrees. The temp sensor needs to be working and it's located at the thermostat housing.

    The engine will always overheat when idling if the electric fan is not working.

    The cooling fan relay is under the right headlamp. It needs a really good ground connection to work. Take it off, scuff up the back and the fender where it connects to and ensure a good ground. Use an ohm meter to verify there's a good ground. Many relays have been replaced that were good. The new ones were just clean on the back side and had a better electrical ground connection.

    Test the relay by turning having someone turn the AC on with the hood open to see if the fan turns on about 1-2 seconds after the AC is turned on.

    The stock radiator will keep the engine cool at 25+ mph. If the fan is working and you're still overheating, then the water is not moving through the engine and radiator. Take the radiator cap off when cool and squeeze the lower radiator hose. You should get fluid to gurgle at the cap, if not the radiator could be clogged.

    A 10mm socket will take off the thermostat housing. A thermostat is 10 bucks. Change it for good measure and be sure to change the gasket as well. Use a razor to scrape off the old gasket material.

    If you're still overheating, the water pump could be bad. Prolonged overheating can mess up the impellers in the water pump.

    Start with the electric fan first though....
  • landj68landj68 Member Posts: 6
    Well, I took the Jeep to the Jeep dealer this morning so I should know what's wrong by tomorrow. I'll let you know what they find.
  • xu_zxu_z Member Posts: 1
    I have 1995 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0 L. I drove about 2 miles, the temperature gauge was going to red section. I must stopped to drive the jeep. I changed the thermostat, but the overheat problem still was not solved.

    Please give me an advice.
  • pludlowpludlow Member Posts: 16
    Occassional dramatic loss of power on acceleration. WOT/peddle-to-the-floor seems to initiate recovery. Plugs replaced, rotor, cap cam position sensor and crankshaft position sensor replaced with OEM parts. Problem still occurs.

    Soemtimes accompanied with a "cough".

    Any successful solutions would be appreciated
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    tps bsounds bad tells computer that you sticking your foot into the throttle tells computer to shoot the gas to it
  • landj68landj68 Member Posts: 6
  • landj68landj68 Member Posts: 6
    Problem solved, Jeep dealer replaced fuel pump and the jeep is running great again.
  • hoffy1450hoffy1450 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking for a Grille guard for my Jeep. I can't find any good looking Grille Guards online. If you have any suggestions let me know Thanks.
  • jzmartinjzmartin Member Posts: 1
    I am actually having the same issue with my '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I am a little confused by what you said above. What is the "tps b"? Where can I get this tested or by a new one?
  • pludlowpludlow Member Posts: 16
    The TPS is the throttle position sensor located on the rear of the throttle body (mounts to the throttle plate shaft). There are some simple tests you can do with a multimeter to check its function. A friendly shop may be willing to run a test for you, as the function is viewable with advanced scan tools. Otherwise let me know and I'll dig out the procedure from the shop manual.
    Regarding the problem of hesitation, I am still pursuing a solution and am aiming at the fuel system as a possible culprit. The problem seems to occur only during warmup and above about 160degF it is not very pronounced although there is some engine "roughness" on acceleration.
  • vpawmdvpawmd Member Posts: 2
    Haven't had any trouble with my 4.7 on 87 octane, pj95.
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