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Comments
elissa
I have heard of filters installed with the old rubber seal on them and leaking or blowing the oil out.
That's an installation failure - not the filter failure.
Fram filters don't have a drainback prevention valve???
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Pure one filter is at least twice the price of Honda OEM filter. Mobil 1 and Pure one filters use cellulosic media instead of recycled toilet paper media.
I do agree with you on the warranty though. This is why I use Honda filters with Mobil 1 oil. Once the warrnaty is over, I will use Mobil 1 oil and filters. However, if I were to use Mobil 1 filter and it failed causing subsequent damage to the engine thus voiding Honda's warranty, the company (Exxon/Mobil) is liable for the damages. Either through their own good will, or the court system they would have to pay for the damage caused by the failed component. But, it is a hassle to go through civil/small claims court.
I understand a filter could leak around the seal, could split losing all oil rapidly, but these would give an engine oil pressure light and the owner would shut down the engine immediately.
I could see that the filter media might split allowing unfiltered oil through, but the owner would notice the oil becoming more contaminated by color during the weekly oil checks.
What failures am I missing? I am saying this question is a paper tiger, as I see it. But I realize I might be wrong.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You should look at it that NO filter manufacturer wants to manufacture a filter sold for say 2-10 dollars, only to have to be responsible for 6-20k of engine damage!!??
So some arm chaired filter inspectors make a huge distinction about filter construction. While it must meet statistical as well as individual reliablity and durability standards, to me the focus is misplaced. To me the real distinction should be how will does it do in oil analysis.
You will hear folks pine on and on about the need for 3k oil filter changes for a whole host of reasons. So for those folks who have to pay other folks to change the oil, the market dictates from 10-30 dollars for the labor portion! So over 100000 miles @3k 34 labor only changes @ 333-1020 dollars ,plus 170 dollars in oil filters!!?? My take is that if folks are so concerned about it, for app 150 dollars, absolutely EXCELLENT aftermarket bypass filters are available. These are easily capable depending on oil analysis of easily going 20,000-40,000 miles between oil FILTER changes. With a no brainer of 10,000 miles change in oil.
I personally have no problems with 15,000-20,000 between oil changes with a synthetic like Mobil One 0w20, after the very short warranty period.
Huh? Are you talking about the Purolator Pure One filter? A few weeks ago I purchased a Pure One at Advance Auto for my civic (actually got two with a $5 rebate). Price was less than $6 ea. before rebate. Last Honda dealer oil change, price for filter was $8. Honda parts dept OEM filter price is close to $6.
Not sure why you're paying twice as much for a Pure One as for an OEM filter.
In addition, if you read the Honda Civic technical data (shop manuals, web sites, owners manual etc) the oil filter change recommendation is: EVERY OTHER oil change!!!
This can mean anywhere from severe (5000 mile oil change and 10,000 mile oil filter change) to normal. (10,000 mile oil change and 20,000 mile oil filter change) ALL on conventional oil! So each of your 2 oil filters for $5. can go 10k to 20k with no problem what so ever! I think that Honda Civic owners have a lot to be pleased about!
Does anyone have information about how long you have to shut down the engine?
I hear stories about how long they run without oil in junkyards when they start them...
The idea that instant damage occurs is what I'm asking about...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
More likely are the gaffs generally pulled by the quickie lubes: such as stripped oil pan bolts that leak oil, oil bolts not torqued to the correct values, oil filter racheted on without full seal seating, not the correct amount of oil put into the sump etc etc. All of the consequences would be covered by the ones doing the labor. Not that this doesn't happen at a dealer, but you know what I mean.
Also not all Honda dealers, for example use the so called "Honda" oil. Again the truth be told, Honda filters are not mandatory. If they were mandatory the law ( I forget the name of the law) requires that those mandatory parts be provided free of charge. So for example, BMW gets around this by offering so called "FREE" maintainance during the warranty period.
"Is there any warranty on parts that I pay for at my Honda dealer?
Yes. Honda Genuine Parts are covered by a Replacement Parts Limited Warranty. If these parts are installed by a Honda dealer, both the parts and labor are covered for 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first. If the Genuine Honda parts are purchased from a Honda dealer and installed elsewhere, the parts themselves are covered for 12 months. "
So while I "think" the Honda filter used on the 20,000 mile cycle should be covered, the above warranty verbage indicates NOT. You might want to clarify this with your local Honda dealer, in that they are the ones that would fulfill on your warranties. But then again, my local Honda dealer wanted to sell me on a program of 5,000 mile oil and filter changes. So why is it the Honda dealers don't want to believe the 10,000 mile normal oil change with a 20,000 mile oil filter change?
Also it recommends using 5w-20 oil, how about using 10w-30? I live in the SF bay area so the weather here is not a concern. Thanks.
5w20 is made especially for Ford's and Honda's. I have on stock Mobil One 5w30 and to stock the 5w20 and or Mobil 0w20 is more of a PITA, but I would stick with the 5W20 conventional or the 0w20 synthetic such as Mobil One 0w20.
pilotrol "Honda Pilot Owners: Problems & Solutions" Nov 4, 2004 3:22pm
Oil change intervals:
These are like politics. So everyone may scroll past this.
If someone drives their car on short trips primarily and chooses to change often, that's their prerogative. They certainly shouldn't be criticized for observing good car care. I judge my change interval by observing the oil and noting the usage pattern and the weather in my northern clime.
If someone changes more often, they're not throwing their money out the window any more than someone who's using synthetic (partial synthetics, that is) and believing they're taking greater care of their car than with standard petroleum products. The partial synthetics cost more and unless you're driving 2000 per week as an outside salesperson you're probably not helping your engine any more than someone changing at 3500 using standard oils. So who is throwing money out the window is a paper tiger discussions.
"...we need to wrap up this argument..."
"Sorry I'm doing the moderators work..."
The moderators will handle any problems, and I'm sure you read before the suggestion by a moderator to just scroll past any post or poster with whom you have a political disagreement.
I watched two other discussions closed by the moderator because of bitterness over the dynamic control of the discussions by a few posters. Let's not have that happen here.
Just scroll and enjoy the discussions. And may I offer a polite suggestion that white space is your friend. A paragraph break makes a post much more readable.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Also it recommends using 5w-20 oil, how about using 10w-30? I live in the SF bay area so the weather here is not a concern. Thanks
Does your driving fall under normal condition by the manual? Isn't Bay area very hilly? Do you drive short dintances? Ever get stuck in traffic jams? Ever drive in temps above 100°F or bellow 32°F? If you can answer yes to any one of the questions, then you have to follow severe schedule. 5000 miles with 5W20, or 0W-20. 5W-30 may work but will hurt the fuel economy. 10W-30 will hurt the fuel economy and may lead to oil starvation at start up . If cost of 5W-20 over 10W-30 is of concern, look for sales at auto parts stores, or walmart. Autozone has their Mobil 1 sale once in a while where you buy 5 quarts of Mobil 1 oil and get a free Mobil 1 filter (some of them go up to $10/each). I am not advocating for using Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 filters. I use Mobil 1 0W-20 oil and Honda filter while under warranty.
If you are going to have someone do it, do it at the dealer, unless you know the person doing the oil change. Alot of times the "oil changer" at the "grease monkeys" has very limited idea what he is doing. Although you are not guaranteed that the dealer's "oil technical specialist" is any birghter than one at Jiffy Lube, you have some sort of recourse. There were few poeple on ephatch reporting that mass oil changers are not always replacing the crush washer with the new one. But rather putting the old one back and torqueing to the point where threds were stripped on the alluminum oil pan. Or double gasketing the filters. Also, some of the mass oil changers do not carry 5W-20 and may just put whatever they have on hand.
The best thing is to do it your self, that way you know it was done properly and with correct oil weight. The dealer's parts department may just throw in the crush washer when you buy the filter there, or charge you $0.10-0.50 for it. You do not want to re-use the crush washer!
So my intention is to hold them to their advertised and marketed lowest operating costs and then some!!! As you can tell by the myraid of service intervals covering 5k to 110,000 miles, one is free to pick and chose!
So that I am not unclear: if I want to use 250,000 miles as a goal. Why do : i.e.,3k oil changes or 84 oil and filter changes when the manual sez 10,000 mile oil changes and 20,000 mile oil filter changes or 25 oil changes and 13 oil filter changes?
Over the length of time and mileage, that is 59 round trips (extra) x 2 extra round trips to my local Honda dealer. In my case 8.1 x 2 x 2= 1912 miles, which happens to = approach 1 oil and filter change
84 oil changes represents (3.3 qt per change avg) 278 qts or 69.3 gals of oil vs 25 oil changes 82.5 qts or 20.625 gals of oil. So because of feelings, cheap insurance, cheap operating costs, whatever the reasons/reasoning, one is using 4x's the oil than the other!!?? So why do Civic drives get self righteous when SUV drivers get 16 mpg and Civic owners get 38 mph and the factor is only 2.4 X's!!??
I have Honda Civic EX 2000 model.
I have Honda Civic EX 2000 model.
I found that Auto Zone's code scanner is not correct alot of times. Last time the light came on, the code read that catalityc converter was "going." Honda read that gas cap was not tight. It did not take more than 3 trips for the light to go away on its own, like dealer said it would.
Even if the failure is in the catalytic converter, it should be covered by the 8 years of emissions warranty. Don't let the dealer tell you that cat is exhaust, it falls under emissions control, and is covered by the 8 year warranty.
Disconnect the battery overnight, and see if the code comes back when you reconnect it.
Question, did your car come with a manual?
Yes, it came with a manual, but manual does not have all the information, it says to "tifgten the gas cap/will go off in three trips/show to the dealer".
So, you recommend that I need to get it scanned elsewhere too? If the converter is covered under the warranty, then I guess I can show it to the dealer if that is the problem.
Thanks !!
Is there a mileage point at which I should check them out? I know it's different for every car but as a general interval - any suggestions?
I'm unable to take the wheels off and look myself (plus I don't know exactly how to examine) so this is why I ask.
Thanks!
I'm driving a 2001 Civic EX, have close to 160,000 miles and still have about a quarter inch of brake pad left.
At the same time, I've heard someone with a teenage daughter complain about how bad
Honda pads are and wondered why he had to replace them with less than 20,000 miles.
If you don't have the tools or knowledge, the next time you have your tires rotated, ask the mechanic to tell you how the front brake pads look. It is no extra work on his part, and he can show you what he is looking for.
The tattle tell squeeler should help. It is designed to start contacting an unused portion of the brake disk once the pads wear down near the replacement level. This will not be the squeel that you hear sometime after the car sits for awhile and you apply the brakes. This will be a noise that you should hear if not all of the time, from time to time while driving.
If the 2002 model is like mine, the rear has enclosed drum brakes that you can't check without disassembling. When you wear out the front pads, you should have the shop check the wear on the rear as well.
Once you know what you are looking for, the most it will probably take is a small flashlight and perhaps an adjustable angle mirror. It would help to dig into your shop manual to get the measurement specs for the pads and the rotors.
Second, if you RIDE the CAR and not the brakes, it can go a pretty good stretch between pad and rotor changes.
Two words -- Impact driver.
The gas gauges are a little strange in this generation. When the 7th generation first came out, dealers would replace the sending unit in the tank under warranty. When new, mine would show the amount in the tank as lower than it actually was after sitting overnight. Seemed to relate to parking on a hill. The dealer ordered the part to replace it, but I never went in to have it done. Over time, it seems reliable. Not really an issue to me, I drive the same route everyday and reset the trip odometer when I fill up. The limit to my pucker factor is somewhere around 400 miles. It usually takes a little over 11 gallons to fill it back up from this point.
Note that if you are being fanatical about tracking your mileage, there are variations at the pumps that cause the pump to cut off at varying levels. This can cause your mileage to vary by a few miles per gallon.
As you know the tank capacity is 13.2 gal. So indeed if you took on 13.2 gal (empty) your fuel mileage is 22.7 mpg. When you refill you might want to stop at the first click off all the time. The other thing is to put your tires up to the 100 mph speed recommendation (owners manual) of 35 psi. You can adjust from there.
During the break in period of my 2004 Honda Civic 4 door automatic, I got between 35-39 mpg. I know why I got 35 mpg, for I was making the engine rev higher which caused the automatic to kick down gears, for the effect of lower gas mileage. I also know why I got closer to 39/40 mpg also.
So as you can probably guess, most of the rest is behavioral, and/or the usual driver suspects.
As others have noted you need to record the actual miles driven (using the trip meter or a notebook) and the actual amount of fuel you put into the tank (not the tank capacity).
Most areas of the US are now colder than they have been in some time. If you haven't checked your tire pressure recently, now is probably a good time. I try to run at 31 PSI, and had noticed on the last few tanks that my gas mileage was lower than usual. While servicing the car this past weekend, I checked the pressure and found them at 26 PSI, air temperature in the 40's. We had been experiencing temperatures in the 70's until recently here in the Southeast. If you don't check your pressure on a regular basis and your mileage has been lower recently, might want to check your tire pressure.
To use your example of 31 #'s at 70 degrees would equal -3 #'s or 28#'s at 40 degrees.
When the low fuel light comes on and you fill the tank how many gallons of fuel does it take? Without the number of gallons it takes to fill the tank after driving 300 miles we have no idea whether you're getting poor, good, or excellent fuel mileage.
On my CR-V the low fuel light comes on when there's about 3 gallons of fuel still in the tank. It's a low fuel warning light, not a "fill up NOW or run out of fuel" light.
How many gallons of fuel does it take to fill up your tank when the low fuel light comes on?
Back to work and driving now I am wondering where I should be on the maintenance schedule - 36 months is 50-60k mile maintenance.
Thanks!
Took the car in today and dealership states brake pads are a worn down and drums need machining. This is being done but I am not convinced it will fix the knocking sound. I am wondering if it may be the CV joint or such.
Any ideas on what may be causing the knocking sound? Is it the brakes?
Is it possible to get a second opinion on the car condition before the warranty ends? How would I go about doing this?
Thanks.