Honda Civic Care and Maintenance

ncampbell2002

Well I just wanted to let everyone know, since this is always a highly controversal topic on this forum with octanes of fuel, additives etc. but I took my 03 Civic Ex down to Cedar Point from the Detroit area (about 200 miles round trip) with 3 of my buddies yesterday using 87 octane fuel and absolutely no additives and it performed beautifully with no missing, hesitation etc. I would say the load on the engine was very heavy seeing between the 4 of us probably the passenger weight was about 800 lbs. (near capacity of a Civic coupe I think) and since it was so hot the A/C was blasting the entire way too. Not to mention I was cruising between 80-85 mph. the whole way. The car responded very smoothly when accelerating on the highway to these speeds. Just letting everyone know to help make a decision on how they want to maintain their Honda with a real life experience rather than an opinion based or theoretical based idea that sometimes gets thrown around on Town Hall. Gee, I guess those guys that write the owner's manual are right sometimes!

gregoryc1

High quality preventive maintenance is all about preventing rapid ware of component parts. Lets run two engines for 100,000 miles. One maintained by the "Book of Honda", and one given a "high quality preventive maintenance program". Then lets "tear down" the two engines and check component wear. A 200 mile trip is no real test! It proves nothing!

snarks

I currently drive a high mileage Honda Civic (210k miles) owned since new, no additives, no premium, oil changes every 4k-5k. No engines problems and runs fine. It still gets 32MPG-37MPG overall. My previous Honda Accord was taken from parents at 200k and I ran till 310k until rust got it, without a single engine problem.

Just for the record let everyone know how long you keep a Honda to really know the long term effects.

gregoryc1

Maximum 100,000 miles, or when it is "out of the extended warranty"! After 100,000 miles any vehicle will have the "potential" to require maintenance on large items. I do not want to put "large amounts of money" into a vehicle with 100,000 + miles. I would rather use that money as a "down payment" on a new Honda. Our present 2003 Accord has 25,000 miles on the clock. At our present rate of usage, it is very possible that we will have 40,000 to 50,000 miles when the vehicle is 3 years old. When the vehicle is 3 years old, I will explore the possibility of trading it for a new Accord. If the numbers make sense, I might just make the deal. You only live once, so enjoy the experience along the way. If I make this deal, are you interested in this vehicle? You can purchase it from the dealer, if I make the trade!

snarks

Any one of your cars would be a good buy likely due to maintenance, I would only buy a car with records. The extra maintenance is not required however for long vehicle life. My point is you have no experience with regards to extra longevity due to the extra maintenance you perform.

Anyway I think I'm done with Honda's and onto a Mazda 3 hatchback or Mazda 6 hatchback soon. Much much more fun to drive and better utility. My Civic will probably run a while longer but its truley worn now, ie seats etc. They seem to hold up problem free to about 150k and then minor stuff here and there.

My last point being is the a car will continue to run fine with basic Honda maintenance probably longer than the owner will want it.

warner

What does anyone think about getting the Honda Care Extended Warranty? Is it worth it? Anyone have any experience with using it? I'm debating whether or not it's worth it, and leaning towards getting the 5 year/ 100,000 mile version. Any comments would be welcome, and thanks!

                Warner

ncampbell2002

Our family has never purchased the extended warranty nor have we ever wished we purchased it because we have never had a problem with any of our Honda cars under 100K-- 85 Honda Accord LX, 185,000 miles, totaled but still ran great up to that point. 89 Honda Accord LXi, 270,000 miles, clutch went and wasn't worth fixing cauze the body was in terrible shape. The only other major repair we did on it was an alternator. 95 Civic DX, 98,000 miles, sold with no problems. 99 Honda Accord EX-V6, 57,000 trouble free miles and still going strong. 03 Civic EX, 20,500 miles and runs like a gem. Hey you do what you want but I think its worth saving your money. Even if you do have some kind of major repair it will probably cost you less than the warranty costs. However I do think there is some kind of cancellation thing if you don't use it or something but I'm not really sure.

gregoryc1

Honda offers a 7 year 100,000 mile warranty. We purchased it on a 2003 Accord for $875.00 and on a 2004 Civic for $975.00. I wouldn't drive a car, (new or used), without an extended warranty. One alternator or starter repair would pay for half of the cost of the extended warranty. A defective AC compressor would cost more than the warranty! With this warranty you are covered bumper to bumper on all major components and systems. If a transmission gives you a problem, the repair bill could be as high as $3,000.00 + dollars. That would roughly be about three times the cost of the warranty. For seven years or 100,000 miles we can drive the vehicles without the worry of a major repair. Just give it "high quality" maintenance at the dealer, so all the service records are in one place, should a warranty problem occur. I would highly recommend an extended warranty!

gregoryc1

Why are you going to a Mazda? -----I don't think that they compare to the quality of a Honda. Isn't there a transmission issue with some Mazda vehicles? Do they hold their resale value like a Honda? One of the vehicles that I would like to own is a PT Cruiser, but the Chrysler dealers in my area of New Jersey leave a lot to be desired, so I am not willing to take a chance on this purchase.

snarks

Mazda's vary. The Mazda 3 is built in Japan like the Mazda Miata which is of superior quality. There is not a track record yet on Mazda 3 however Consumer Reports lists the Mazda 6 as slightly better reliability than Accord in first year 2003.

Honda's are not very fun to drive, I love the Acura TSX (same as European Accord I had for 6 months while in Germany) but a little steep for my tastes. Resale is not as great typically but I keep a vehicle too long for that to be an issue. At 200k the value difference is indifferent.

They are Mazda 3's are pleasarble cars to drive if you want something with a sporty fun to drive edge. Its chassis is also basis for all new Volvo V40. I only drive manuals so no issue on transmissions.

blueiedgod

The reason you chose a Honda is because of its reliability record. Yes, there are bad apples sometimes, and if it gives you bette rnight sleep get the warranty. Just be aware of the fact that you may never use it, and lose the money. And if you do have a repair, it may not be covered by the warranty. Although, Honda care is better than aftermarket, it has limitations and exclusions.

I'd say, put the money you are willing to put up for the warranty ($800-$1000) into a high yeld cd or savings account (some are doing 2% on regular savings with no commitment, PM for referral) for 36 months, the duration of manufacturer's warranty. By then you will have an idea whether the car needs the extended warranty. You can buy Honda care anytime between 0-36 months or 0-36,000+mileage at purcahse (if car came with 50 miles, you coverage is to 36,050 miles) for pretty much the same price.

snarks

I'll add something. Extended warranty's are like a casino, the odds are in the casino's favor to win especially with Honda's. The payout however is nice if you do actually win (ie major repair on the car).

imidazol97

On the extended warranty..., is there a deductible payable each time the warranty
is invoked? Like first $100 or $250???
That makes the loss even worse -- playing the odds.

I agree with the posts 380 and 381.

blueiedgod

Honda care is available with $50 deductible every time you come for a repair, or no deductible option. With the $50 if you a come in for 1-2-3 components, you still only pay $50 for the visit. As far as I know there is no lifetime deductible.

warner

Well, I took your advice (and my gut feeling) and did opt for the extended warranty. Since I'll be putting some miles on the car, I chose the 5 year/100,000 mile version. I got it for $870 and this is the ZERO deductible version. If I never use it, my feelings won't be hurt a bit and if I DO use it, they'll feel even better. It would be HORRIBLE if something major broke at 40,000 miles however unlikely that may be.

                    Warner

blueiedgod

Well done. If you sell the car before warranty expires, you get prorated refund as well. GAP insurance is nice to have, and at $400 is not a bad deal. Make sure you keep the paperwork in a safe place, and not in the car.

warner

Good suggestion about keeping the paperwork elsewhere! (I'm thinking as my car is out in my work lot with ALL of the paperwork in the glove box!).

            Warner

warner

Does anyone have any suggestions on what type of wax to use on the 2004 Civic? I want to get a good wax on every couple of months and would like to hear any positive or negative feedback on the different types.

             Thanks in advance,

                   Warner

ncampbell2002

I've used several kinds and I've found that as long as you keep up with it, many of the name brands of finishing wax will work just fine. For the ease of application and buffing out, I liked Mothers finishing wax (phase 3 of their 3 step process) the best, followed by Meguires, then Turtle wax, keep in mind these are all in the liquid form. IMO, they all produced the same lustrous finish you are looking for.

warner

I'd be doing this all by hand (no buffer). Do your recommendations involve a buffer, or do you do it by hand as well? You just wash the car normally then use the Mother's #3 finishing wax?

                 Thanks again,

                    Warner

PS - How about on the alloy wheels? I understand that they have some type of clearcoat finish on them, correct?

ncampbell2002

It works well either way. I have done both. Lately I have applied it using an orbital buffer and then take it off by hand using a terry or cotton cloth. yeah make sure you wash the car really good first, dry it and let it sit awhile before you wax it to make sure all moisture is off the paint. DO NOT wax in the sunlight otherwise it will be very difficult to remove (been there done that). As far as the alloy wheels just keep them washed really good. I have had bad experiences with wheel polish leaving small scratches in the finish because most of them have some type of abrasive mixture to them which is almost like taking a piece of fine grain sandpaper and rubbing it on your wheels.

complex1

Please, could you tell what is going to be replaced on this car in the next 10-30 Kmiles if the car has previously been well maintaned?

What is in general reliability of this 89's year Civic?

markg4

i got new ceramic brakes on my 2000 si a few months ago at around 53k. after about 1 month, i started to hear a noise like a clunk when applying the brakes after driving a while. i brought the car to the shop that did the brakes and they said that the caliper slides are shifting and they need to be inspected to see how to fix it. they assured me that it will not cause any problems with the pads or rotors and that they are both in perfect condition. i am going to have them fix it asap but will driving it like this cause any damage (or has it already?). i am worried because it sounds bad to me. any advice is appreciated.

blueiedgod

If the car came with owner's manual it is your best friend. You can also register at http://www.ahm-ownerlink.com and it will tell you exactly what needs to be replaced.
One of the major things, timing belt, should have been replaced at 60,000 miles. I am not sure when Honda switched from 60,000 interval to 90,000, but I am pretty sure the 1989 models were all 60,000 miles. Valves would probably need adjustment as well. If the car still has the original belts and hoses, it would not hurt to replace them as preventative maintenance. Depending on the previous record, tranny fluid may need to be changed.
Check the CV joints for breakage, struts for leaks, and general "wear and tear" items.

speterson1

Howdy everyone,

For those of you who have a lot of miles on your Civics, what did you pay for your 90,000 mile maintenance checkup? I'm curious. Before dropping our Civic off this morning at the dealer I had checked Edmunds maintenance guide on this site to get a ballpark idea of how much it would cost me, and the Edmunds estimate was about $230. I noticed that this was very minimal, only accounting for inspecting lots of parts and not the cost of actually replacing them.

So this morning when I drop it off, the guy tells me it's going to cost about $850. Picked up my jaw and looked over the differences between the dealer to-do list and Edmunds. Basically the main difference is that at 90,000 miles my dealer just goes ahead and replaces the timing belt since they've got the engine apart to inspect it, and for the same reason they go ahead and replace the water pump and the engine belts & hoses. I don't have a problem with this, especially since we bought the car used last year with 78,000 miles on it. At 90,000 miles the timing belt is most likely due to be changed. I just thought the jump to $850 is a bit steep! That's a lot of labor, I am curious to see the final bill and how the cost breaks down into parts vs. labor.

On a side note, I really appreciated Edmunds maintenance site. It alerted me to three recalls for my '98 Civic, so I asked the guy to look into those issues while my car is in today as well. I would have had no idea about the recalls if I hadn't checked before taking the car in.

Steve

theracoon

Didn't you get an estimate/quote before you left the dealership after dropping off your Civic? I always insist on a detailed estimate of the work and cost. I was plesantly surprised at the 60,000 mile service for my '99 CR-V, as the actual cost came in at nearly $200 less than the estimate.

blueiedgod

Most of the charges are going to be for labor. REplacing timing belt on a civic, or any honda is very involved. The belt itself is no more than $50, and the water pump about $80. To replace the belt you have to support the engine and remove one of the engine mounts. All of the accesory belts have to come off, and I think the crank pulley has to come off as well. The work area is very cramped, and difficult to work in. One has to be careful no to move the camshaft sprockets while the belt is off. Most of the dealerships have only one guy who is skilled enough to do this kind of work. I'd estimate that out of $850, $$450-500 is for labor. Most Honda dealerships charge $75-$80/hour labor rate.

speterson1

To answer theracoon, yes, I did get an estimate before I left the dealer, that was what caused my jaw to drop.

I'm OK with this, and blueiedgod, you're pretty close with your guess for cost breakdown. With the timing belt replacement my Civic was in all day (it wasn't quite finished when I returned at 4:45 pm after dropping it off at 8:00 am!), so $540 of my cost was labor.

Feeling better knowing that this is the norm for 90,000 mile service and that I don't have to worry about the timing belt and a lot of other preventative maintenance. Thanks for the feedback!

theracoon

To answer theracoon, yes, I did get an estimate before I left the dealer, that was what caused my jaw to drop.

And they didn't contact you to get your approval for the extra service/amount? In some states that's illegal.

bennie

i went to the local honda dealer and bought "lexol". it's supposed to be for leather but it works great on my vinyl. i had a window replaced and the guy scratched the dash pretty good and this stuff took it right out. also i use armor--all for windows on my windows. it has alcohol instead of that other crud. i have a brand new 04 civic and the windows constantly have that fog appearing. this stuff lightly applied works wonders.

bd21

Well I did my first oil change on my Civic yesterday, what a mess. I had it up a a lift and I could see in advance that when you remove the oil filter that oil was going to pour all over the place. I even put some strategic rags to minimize the mess, but this is an unbelievably poor design. After you remove the filter, you will go through several rags trying to wipe the oil off of all the parts it poured on. I would say I spent an extra 10 minutes getting everything clean. I know a typical mechanic is going to do that, so you will be smelling burnt oil for a while. Any one got a secret method that is a little less messy?

ncampbell2002

My advice is to make sure the oil pan is in place where the oil will drip, this will minimize oil drip on your floor. Then after you get EVERYTHING sealed back up (plug and filter) spray some brake cleaner in the area and it dissolves the oil immediately and it can then be easily wiped up.

bd21

I didn't spill a drop on the floor, my issue was how much oil flows all over several parts that are very hard to wipe up. Brake cleaner will work for the mess, but it's a very poor design if you have to use it for oil changes. I was wondering if anyone had come up with some kind of method so the oil didn't flow all over everything in the first place. I used to make a diverter with tin foil for my Sable, but I don't see a solution for this car. Has anyone found a good trick?

blueiedgod

Fram makes an oil plug replacement that has a valve and you can attach a hose to it. It is called Sure Drain, check it out at the Fram web site. I have no problem changing oil, but I don't lift the car, I jack up the passenger side and remove the wheel, then lower it to be level. I get more mess from the oil filter than anything. I have an Si, and it has a 2.0 liter engine, which may have a different design.

bd21

It's not the drain plug that is the problem, it's the filter. I don't recommend the Fram sure drain. The design leaves about a quarter inch of old oil in the pan because of the added lip on the insert. Next time you change your oil with your Fram drain, remove the fitting after the oil stops coming out and you will be surprised how much old oil was left in the pan. I have a full service lift that I use, so standing directly under the car is not a problem. At least a Fram sure drain is better than not changing the oil at all. My complaint is just about the unavoidable mess from oil flowing everywhere after you remove the filter. Still looking for a solution that may make less of a mess.

blueiedgod

I guess your other solution would be to buy an oil filter relocation kit. I am pretty sure there is one for the Civic. Someone on ephatch.com made a catch "thingie" out of an old gallon jug, by cutting it in half. I, personally, don't think a pint of oil on the block or the frame will do any damage. Just wipe it up. When the engine block heats up it may smell for a few miles, but if you wipe it up clean a little coating of oil won't hurt it. It is not like you are spilling it on the exhaust manifold, which may start a fire.

When I change oil I just make sure I flip the filter "hole up" when it is coming off. I lose very little oil. But then again, I don't have a lift, I am accessing it from the passenger side wheel well, with the wheel removed.

miester_v

I have an '04 Civic, and I decided to get the severe maintanance oil change at the 6 month mark. I had just shy of 2000 miles (yeah, I don't drive much). Unfortunately I have not read the previous messages regarding the first oil change for a car, that mentioned that it should be done at 5000 mi, not 6 months. Should I have waited until I readhed at certain milage, or was it okay to get the oil change which was after 6 months of use?

theracoon

The interval is 5,000 miles OR 6 months, whichever comes first. You're fine.

miester_v

Yeah, I know what the intervals are. But I was asking specifically for the first oil change...but I guess I see no reason to worry since the manual also said that for the first oil change, it's the milage or the time, which ever comes first. I just wanted some assurance...

imidazol97

The headline on a friend's 95 Civic keeps dropping out of the rear window u-shaped clip. How can I put it back in and make it stay. It seems to do it in the summer heat but not in the winter cold weather?

gregoryc1

Since you do not drive very much,(and I would assume that you might also do "short trip driving" in the process), I would change the oil and the filter every 3,000 miles or 3 months which ever comes first. This would give you 4 oil and filter changes per year. The cost for this servce at the Honda dealer for one year would be somewhere between $84.00 and $100.00 dollars depending on the dealer, and the local taxes. That is "cheap" maintenance!------Extended oil and filter changes are a "dream"! ----Clean oil = a healthy engine! You will read other opinions on this subject. Read them, and make up your own mind.

plaue

I don't know if there's a time stipulation regarding the first oil change. Regardless, I don't think you did any harm. Regardless, I'd just follow what the owner's manual says.

In regards to gregoryc's comment, I strongly disagree with his views. Extended oil and filter changes ARE a dream (for me). I change my oil/filter as per the normal driving conditions, as specified in the manual. I definitely qualify for normal driving conditions even living in Metro Atlanta.

I currently have 70,500 miles on my 1998 Civic. I like to think that I take pretty good care of my car--when I wash and wax it, for example, I use a 3 stage wax that takes me about 4 hours to complete. All servicing is done under normal driving conditions and the car doesn't burn any oil and runs/idles just fine.

My personal belief is that the 3 month / 3000 mile oil change interval is too short for a modern engine (aside from some infamous Toyota engines). Actually, now that my car is well out of the warranty and I use synthetic oil, I am considering going even longer than the 7500 mile drain interval. But, before I do this, I will get an oil analysis performed to assure me that the oil is chemically holding up. Right now I have no evidence suggesting that extending the interval will not be possible.

Maybe it's my educational experience, but I don't like to accept any advice with some supporting evidence. I do what I feel is right for me, and, my car functions quite well. Sure you can change your oil as often as you want--it won't do any damage except consume extra money and a natural resource. Personally, I use a high quality oil--not the mystery oil found in the bulk container at many places.

Well Gregory's advice will cost you between $84 - $100, I can do a change of oil myself, using Mobil1 synthetic and a good name brand filter for about $25. So, putting my mathematics minor to good use, changing my oil twice a year or every 7500 miles costs me about $50. That's even cheaper (and in my opinion better since I know that I am 1) definitely replacing the crush washer and 2) draining out as much of the old oil as possible) maintenance.

*peace*

gregoryc1

You didn't add in the cost of an "oil analysis"! I could perform this maintenance, but then I would have to deal with the problem of disposing of the old oil and filter properly. My oil and filter changes run about $21.00 at the dealer, depending on the current specials that they are offering at the time. With a "$5.00 tip" for the mechanic, and a cup of flavored coffee for myself and my service writer, I get to look at the new cars for 30 minutes, and I do not get dirty. I have confidence in my dealer's service department, so as such, I know that they are installing a new "crush washer". I am not concerned with draining as much old oil as possible, because I drain the oil often. We have purchased five Honda vehicles from this dealer, and we have never been disappointed with the quality of their service. My time is worth more to me than spending it changing engine oil.

plaue

I did not add in the cost of the oil analysis because I do not do this routinely. I'm only going to be doing the oil analysis to gain an idea of how much I can extend my interval using synthetic oil.

You can do whatever you want, however you want to. I respect that.

The point in my posting was to provide an alternative point of view. Anyone who reads these forums regularly knows how you feel about maintaining your cars. Im simply pointing out that there are individuals out there who perform service intervals quite differently than yourself and have suffered no ill effects.

Theres no associated cost with disposing the oil and filter properly. Many places around here take it. Pep Boys cheerfully took my used engine coolant for proper disposal. I believe I used Earth 911's Web site to find this information.

For the occasions that I don't want to change my own oil, I pay the $10 in labor and drop my car off at the service station across the street from where I live. This gives me time to clean the kitchen or hop in the pool. Or, if I'm at the dealership waiting on service, I'll bring my laptop and get some work done--and avoid the evil lure of new car smell from the showroom!

Bottom line is...I believe Hondas are great cars and are engineered very well. I have full confidence in my car to be on the road for a long time while I utilize the normal driving conditions schedule.

*peace*

gregoryc1

Since writing my last posting on this subject I decided to check the mileage on my Honda, and I noticed that it was coming up to the 3,000 mile interval. So, I made an appointment with my dealer for Wednesday at 2:30pm to have the oil and filter changed. Since it is an afternoon appointment, this will give us the opportunity to talk to our sales person and the finance manager.------ Actually, I look forward to visiting the dealer. The smell of the new cars in the showroom is "very enticing"!------ Since we get excellent service from our service writer, we will be dropping off a small token of our appreciation, when we present the vehicle for service. (A bottle of wine). This individual works VERY hard, and she has to take a lot of "garbage" from the public on daily basis. We appreciate her attention to detail and her professionalism. It is our way of saying "Thank You"!-----Life is TOO SHORT!

blueiedgod

...then I would have to deal with the problem of disposing of the old oil and filter properly...
Any mechanics shop, gas station with a repair shop, most Auto Zones, Pep Boys, R&S Strauss, NAPA, and so on accept used oil for free. You can see a big poster in their windows, or by the door.

My oil and filter changes run about $21.00 at the dealer, depending on the current specials that they are offering at the time. With a "$5.00 tip" for the mechanic, and a cup of flavored coffee for myself and my service writer.
That is pricey for dyno oil. 4 quarts of oil plus filter is no more than $10. You paid almost $30. What is the deal with tipping mechanics? I never understood that when I lived in NYC. It is their job, it is not like the get paid $2.50 an hour like waiters do. I understand if someone did an exceptional thing for me, but to change oil?

I get to look at the new cars for 30 minutes...
I can do that anytime I want to, no one is to stop me from looking at new cars.

... and I do not get dirty...
This is the best part of DIY work. Dirt does not scare me. I do have to scrub afterwards though. I tend to wear nitrile or latex gloves when I work on my cars, it minimizes the scrubbing I will have to do later on. I am a white collar worker and it would look wierd to be in a meeting on Monday with dirt under my nails.

I have confidence in my dealer's service department, so as such, I know that they are installing a new "crush washer".
I hope you are not going to Paragon Honda in Queens or their other affiliates (White plains Honda). I saw them put "Wolf something" brand of oil into my Honda. When I confronted them, they said that they always use discount oil on "special price" oil changes. At least when I do my oil changes, I know that for $25 I am putting Mobil 1 quality oil in there. Auto Zone had a sale last week, buy 5 quarts of Mobil 1 and get Mobil 1 filter free.

My time is worth more to me than spending it changing engine oil. Yet, in the same 30 minutes that you are waiting for the oil to be changed you are either BSing with the sales person, tech writer or sitting in new cars. Seems like unproductive time to me.

Sorry, if I sounded sarcastic.

edunnett

I'm right there with you blueidgod - prefer to do all my own maintenance if I can. Even the simple stuff like an oil change allows me to get under the car and inspect boots, exhaust, check for leaks and rust and other anomalies. It allowed me to spot an oil leak in the pistons early on and possibly save my engine much wear and tear (oil only leaked while the car was running and the pistons were pumping - so there was no spot on the garage floor; just a bit of greasy drippy stuff on the engine). Getting under my car also allowed me to spot a coolant leak early due to a faulty water pump - before the puddle showed on my garage floor and the pump started making terrible noises. I don't think any quick mechanic would check that stuff during a 30-minute oil change. Doing my own maintenance also earns me a bit of respect when I go to the dealer or mechanic for "real" work. They know I know what I'm talking about and are impressed and I feel less likely to get taken advantage of.
-Elissa

gregoryc1

Thank you for your ideas! Yes, you do sound "sarcastic"! But that is "ok"! Before retiring as an Industrial Arts Teacher in New Jersey I taught Basic Auto Mechanics, and Computer Aided Drafting,(AutoCAD), and over the years I did my share of engine rebuilding, oil changes, tune ups, valve jobs, brakes and yes, even automatic transmission work. I also worked as a Service Writer at a Buick dealership in New Jersey. At this point in my life, I no longer want to get my hands dirty, nor do I want to crawl under a vehicle to drain oil. I don't even work on the engine of our 27' boat. I can diagnose a problem, but I prefer to let a young person crawl around an engine compartment in the boat or under the hood of a land based vehicle. I like to "tip people" who treat me as a "human being", and as a way of showing my appreciation for their caring and professionalism. I like to see the "surprised look" on their face! I like to "make their day"! Once in awhile, I have been know to drop off a case of cold beer to the service staff at the marina, so that the guys and girls can have a "cold one" after work! I don't look at "tipping" as a waste of my money, but rather I look at as a way of showing my appreciation to others who treat me well and perform a service. Since I do not support a church,(organized religion with weekly contributions),I use that money to spread some "joy" to others,(the little hard working people), that I come in contact with on this road of life.-----NOW, you have heard the rest of the story!

edunnett

Thank you Gregory, your shared experiences have motivated me to finally "get off the pot" and thank my dealer for excellent service as well. I usually just write a letter to the specific person and CC the dealership mangagement and the headquarters (in this case it's Subaru of America) but this time I think I'll send over a little gift certificate or something.

gregoryc1

People appreciate the small acts of kindness! Sometimes when I drop our vehicles off on a cold winter morning, I will bring my service writer a hot cup of coffee. One morning I supplied a dozen bagels for the staff. If more people showed some appreciation, maybe we would have less "stress" in the world. I have also written some thank you notes to the staff, service manager and the owner of the dealership. We have purchased and / or leased five Honda vehicles from this dealer since 1997, and we have always been treated with respect and professionalism. I guess this is why we are still driving Honda vehicles!------ Remember, it is not the price of the gift, it is the spirit in which it is given that counts!----Have a GREAT day! ---------Greg