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Honda Civic Care and Maintenance

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Comments

  • dudkadudka Member Posts: 451
    I have a question about the Life insurance on the loan. Why is it needed? If you already have life insurance, it will be more than enough to pay off the car for your spouse to own. Secondly, why would your surviving spouse need two cars. This is assuming she has her own transportation.

    As far as extended warranty, I agree that there is a chance that you may incur a very expencive repair after the manufacturer's warranty has expired. I don't have the numbers, but since warranty/insurance companies are in business that means they are making money on these plans. That would mean that statistically you have a slim chance of somehting major breaking. Second scenraio, you went out and bought extended warranty on your brand new car, then it gets stolen. That is $800 gone. Worse off, your car is involved in an accident, most warranties give you hard time paying if your vehicle has been in an accident.
    I think by putting that $800 into a high yeld accound you will earn some money after 36 months and then if something breaks, chances are it will not cost you $800 to fix.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Thank you for your opinion on this subject. The extended warranty on the 2003 Honda Accord is a "Honda Warranty", not an after market warranty. I would not purchase an "after market warranty". You state that if you turn in your car every 2 to 3 years an entended warranty is a waste of money. That is not true!--- If you lease a vehicle for 3 years with 12,000 miles per year, and you go over the total lease mileage, you are now operating a lease vehicle without a warranty. If you have a major component failure you could be out "big bucks" for the repair! If you lease a vehicle for 39 months, toward the end of the lease, you are operating the vehicle for 3 months without a warrnty, and the issue would be the same. In my posting I stated that I would be trading my 2003 Accord probably in the 6th year of ownership, because at that point in time, the vehicle would most probably have 100,000 miles on the clock. The vehicle would been already paid off at the third, (3rd) year, so as such, I would use the value of the 2003 Accord as a down payment on a new or used Honda vehicle, which would get another extended warranty. Here is an important question for you. Do you have medical insurance? If the answer to that question is "yes", and you are in perfect health at the present time, why do you see a need to have this coverage? Most people have medical insurance because they understand that the possibility exists, that down the road of life something could happen. Insurance makes them feel a little secure. The same is true with an extended warranty of a vehicle. After 3years or 36,000 miles anything could accur on a vehicle. You could have a transmission failure. That little repair could cost you $2,000.00 + dollars. My extended HONDA warranty for 7 years / 100,000 miles was $800.00. The warranty company paid $1200.00 on this repair and I paid the original $800.00. If this incident occured in the 4th year of ownership, I am still covered for another 3 years for the same $800.00 dollars. The final choice to purchase or not purchase an extended manufacturer's warranty is up to the individual. I personally, would not drive a new or used vehicle without an extended factory warranty. When the warranty is about to expire, I trade the vehicle. -----Just my opinion.
  • crv16crv16 Member Posts: 205
    I bought an extended warranty on a 98 CR-V. We sold it a couple years afterward, with 45k on the odometer. A big selling point for the car was the fact that it had a transferrable warranty, which eliminated a lot of worries on the part of the person who bought it.

    With that said, I don't think I'd ever buy an extended warranty again. I've owned a lot of Hondas over the years, and only once have I had a problem that an extended warranty would have covered -- a starter that failed on my '95 Accord.

    All these Honda's have been in my family, and the miles they had on them when we sold:
    89 Accord (92k miles, no problems)
    90 Civic (130k miles, no problems)
    92 Accord (23k miles, no problems)
    92 Accord (72k miles, no problems)
    92 Civic (70k miles, no problems)
    95 Accord (132k miles, starter failed-$100 for rebuilt)
    98 CR-V (45k miles, no problems)
    00 Odyssey (33k miles, a few problems covered under warranty)
    01 Accord (61k miles, no problems)

    So, If I had bought extended warranties on all these vehicles, I would have spent $7,200 to cover my one failure ($100 starter).

    The problem with extended warranties is that they don't cover the things you are going to spend money on, like tires, brakes, timing belts, tune ups, exhaust pipes, etc. The things they do cover don't typically fail until after the 100k mile mark -- well past the mileage a warranty will cover.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Was there a deductible on your extended warranty after the origional warranty from
    Honda ran out? If so that ups the cost of the warranty when you actually do have
    to replace something which the warranty partly covers.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    #929 of 931 de-carbonization on Mazda's by jacquegill by fwatson Sep 25, 2003 (3:37 pm) You should follow the Millenia forum. It is kind of slow, but we do get some good information ove there. Here is a crosspost from it. It's for the P model with 2.5 non supercharged engine. If you
    have the S supercharged model this doesn't apply to you.

                            --------------------------------------------
      Also, there is a TSB out advising not to use 93 in the P because of carbon buildup. Check post
                            #2536 of 2584 by misty8

                            ----------------------------------------

                            (Bulletin No: 01-027/02

                            APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS

                            All 1995 - 2002 Millenia models with 2.5L V6 (KL)

                            Description

                            After a cold start, MIL comes on with DTC P0300 to P0306 stored in the memory. In most cases, this concern may be caused by misfire occurring in one cylinder during idle. The use of premium fuel (high-octane fuel) may be allowing carbon deposits to accumulate on the exhaust valve seat, causing momentary insufficient compression.
    To correct this concern, remove carbon deposits using a suitable top engine cleaner.

     Note: After removing the carbon deposits, be sure to advise the customer to use lower-octane fuel
        (87 or 89 octane) to help prevent future recurrences.)

                            --------------------------------------------
                            --------------------------------------------

                            And this is from AllData:

                            5- 0102702 APR 03 Engine - MIL ON/ DTC's P0300 - P0306 Set

                            http://alldata.com/TSB/33/02333664.html

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    Medical Insurance and car warranty extension are apples and oranges, or more like a grapefruit vs a blueberry. Medical insurance costs can run into $100,000 or $500,000 while a major car repair will never run more than $5000 for an engine and the car may not be worth $5000 so you junk it. If I bought a car with a shaky reliability or high repair costs an extended warranty would be good. But a Honda is not expensive to repair nor the likely hood is very high. Financially it does not make great sense but for the comfy feeling some need it does.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Some discussion occurred about using premium fuel in engines designed for regular and tuned for regular. The premium fuel causes carbon buildup.

    Premium wastes money and may cause more problems. Does the warranty cover use of premium fuel if it causes a carbon problem? Does the extended warranty???

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    1) How would thye ever know unless they asked you?

    2) Premium fuel can be used albiet a waste of money in a Honda since octane requirement in Accord/Civic is 86+.

    3) It has no effect on warranties.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    QUESTIONS: ---- What happens if the engine in your 3 1/2 year old Honda destroys itself, and you have no extended warranty? Are you prepared to put up $3,000.00 to $5,000.00 dollars for a repair? Better yet, ---What happens if you are in a 39 month lease, and the engine or transmission goes in the 37th month of the lease, and you do not have an extended warranty? The lease company wants the vehicle repaired! ----Who is going to pay for this repair? -----Just a few important questions to consider. -----Greg
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    Hi,

    I would bet that any engine with proper maintenance per manual will not "blow up". Even if it did have catasprophic repair most likely at that period so close out of warranty if you are persistent but nice you can typically have it repaired by the manufacturer. How many Honda's has any known that the engine was complete junk and non-repairable that was maintained and had low miles? The warranty company is betting nothing happens which is quite typical and more like the majority of cases out there. Life would be miserable replacing an engine.

    And if it required spending $4000 I would spring for it. I have saved enough money avoiding car payments/warranty payments for the last 5 years of my cars life.
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    Hi All,

    My car 95 Civic EX requires valve clearance inspection every 30k miles. It typically costs $70 by my local Honda dealer. Do the new Honda's require this extra maintenance? My older cars never required this extra maintenance item, just curious.

    Thanks for any insight
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    Your car only requires a valve adjustment if your valves are making noise. In most cases if your oil has been changed regularly, you will never need to have the valves adjusted, so save your money. Truss me, it will be obvious when your valves start making noise.
  • dudkadudka Member Posts: 451
    I have heard of few CR-V's that have developed burnt valves. They did not make noise, but were either overtightened at the factory or just with use and resulted in burnt valves. To me that is cheap maintenance. The dealership would probably charge about $60 to do valve lash adjustment.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    If your vehicle requires a "valve adjustment" every 30,000 miles as part of a "state of the art" preventive maintenance program, why wouldn't you want to have this service done in order to keep the engine running properly? ----There is a basic concept for vehicle ownership, and that is, ---- that vehicles need maintenance at intervals!----You spend $20,000+ dollars on a vehicle, and now you do not want to spend money to maintain it properly???????? --- Just my opinion. ----Greg
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    I'll just spring the $70 for the maintenance and avoid a burnt valve. No one told me the consequence of it. I'm still okay as they performed a valve inspection complimentary along with a coolant flush during a t-belt/water pump replacement back at 177k miles all for $350. Thanks all
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    QUESTION: ---- Have you ever heard of a person going to his / her doctor for a "stress test", passing the test with flying colors, only to die a day later of a heart attack? ----I have! ----So in life, "S%%% happens", and "prior planning does prevent poor performance"!---- If you do not believe in "extended vehicle warranties" that is ok, but that does not mean that they do not have their place in the "world of vehicle ownership". I do not believe in "self insurance", nor do I believe in investing in the stock market. I believe in having insurance on my life, health, and the products that I own. When I tavel throughout the United States, I know that if I have a major component failure, I do not have any "out of pocket expenses". Yes, I could finance my own repairs, but for the price of a 7 year 100,000 mile extended Honda warranty,---- why should I gamble my own money??? ----Pay the premuim, maintain the vehicle at the dealership, and let the dealer and the manufacturer deal with the component failures. Let your money take some of the stress out of your life!!!! ----Just my opinion. -----Greg
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    Valves clearances don't get tighter as the engine gets older, they loosen up. Usually not enough to be an issue. You don't get burnt valves unless something is seriously out of adjustment. Honda mechanics do not adjust the valves at your 30,000 mile check unless they hear noise. If it makes you sleep better, you can pay Honda your money for this inspection (yes it's an inspection, not an adjustment) and pretend they actually adjusted your valves and maybe you will convince yourself your car even runs better.
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    Thanks for the response. I know people who have not had this done for 100k or 150k and have had no problems. Another reason I also ask is that the dealer I used to go to (actually two different ones) used to adovocate the valve adjustment every 15,000 miles. The first also used ask to have to lubricate the caliper slides for $40? Basically trying to perform a wallet flush with these add-ons. Kind of like the other wallet flushes people advocate like premium fuel and any additives that a car does not need. I follow the normal schedule prescribed in the manual. Anyway I learned and go to an independant garage who knows Honda's and Acura's very well. They know them well enough to send you to the dealer when a repair is covered by secret warranty, eg my girlfriend's 96 Civic that needed two 02 sensors and a cat convertor were replaced under warranty at 145,000 miles. The ind. only charged $30 for diag time.

    thanks again
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    QUESTION: ----- When you go to an independent garage for your regular service and you have a problem on you new vehicle,---- will you have the necessary accepatble documantation to prove that the vehicle was serviced properly? ---- If you are not a "service customer" of the dealer, ----what would motivate them to go out of their way to help you when service issues arise? ----In life you are treated the way you treat others. Good customers are always rewarded with excellent service.----Just my opinion. -----Greg
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    When you go to an independant garage they give a neat thing called a receipt/service documentation on symptoms and repair services rendered. There is a neat law called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act basically stating that using the dealership and OEM parts is NOT required to maintain the warranty.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    now???
    There is nothing that says you have to take your car to the dealer for service. If that were the case, it would have to be to the selling dealer; but many people use other dealers because of distance or problems with the selling dealer for service on a new car.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    You are correct in that you do not have to use the selling dealer for service on your vehicle. On the other hand, there is nothing, (short of starting a legal action), that states that the selling dealer has to work with you on "exceptional issues"!--- Will the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act help you get an engine replaced, if the selling dealer feels that "sludge" was the cause of the engine failure? Will this act pay for your legal fees and your rental vehicle fees?----If a dealer has a choice of helping a loyal customer with a problem, or helping a customer who does not use their facilities, which one do you think he will help? Today my wife and I took her 2000 Civic for a 3,000 mile oil and filter change. The bill was $24.00 (with Tax), and I gave the mechanic a tip of $5.00, so as such, the total bill was $29.00, and we were out of the dealership in 25 minutes. They treat us in a professional manner, and we recognize them for their service and professionalism. If I am in another state, and one of my vehicles suffers a major malfunction, the dealer in that state can get all the service records on that vehicle from the selling dealer. It makes warrnty service very simple. -----Just my opinion. -----Greg
  • dudkadudka Member Posts: 451
    Do you tip mechanics? I have never heard that mecanics work for tips. When I go to my dealer I never know who worked on the car, there are at least 10 mechanics in 12 bays. I am not allowed into the shop. They use one of those card scanners.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Did that include the additives in the price?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    I have never given my mechanic a monetary tip, seems a bit strange but the US seems to tip for everything. I have however given the shop 5lbs of high quality ($25-$30/lb in US) coffee beans from Costa Rica when I make my yearly trek down there to surf for a month. The guys much appreciate the exceptional coffee. I also don't get much balking about leaving car for a month there for service and it typically ends up in my driveway.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    We always make it a point to leave a tip with the service writer for the mechanic, when our Hondas are being serviced. In addition, we also leave a small gift,(a bottle of cheer), for the Service Writer, The Service Manage, Our Sales Person, and the Finance Manager during the holidays. We have purchased and / or leased four Hondas from them since 1997, and they have always treated us VERY WELL! You see, life is VERY short, and it is nice to make people happy along the way. IMPORTANT NOTE: ----The price of the oil change did not include any oil additive. That usually occurs at the 15,000 mile intervals. But on the other side of the issue, I am still using Marvel Oil in the fuel of both vehicles,(4 ounces to every 10 gallons), and in addition, I also use premium fuel. Our engines run very smooth and have fantastic acceleration. I know, Hondas do not need any additives or premium fuel, and humans should not consume vitamins. ----Well have a nice day! -----Greg
  • cam03cam03 Member Posts: 8
    I purchased an 03 civic at the end of July. At the present time I have only 800 miles on it.The dealer, at the time of purchase, suggested to change the oil at the end of October. However, at that time I will not have many more miles on it.I thought of changing my oil(at the dealer)at the end of November. Maybe I will have about 1500 miles on it by then. Is this to early for the first oil change?Should I wait until I reach 5000 miles? I want to do the right thing. Any suggestions will be helpful.
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    Hi,

    change your oil at 5000 miles or at 6 months from purchase (whichever first). Your Honda has special break in oil that is needed intially.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    If you want a "sweet running / sludge free engine" change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Use a Honda Oil filter. Most dealers have a "quick oil & filter change service". This is cheap preventive maintenance. Using the dealer for oil and filter changes is very important, since all your maintenance records will be in one place, should a problem develop. I also like to run premium name brand fuel in my vehicles. (The "book of Honda states 86 octane or higher). I like the performance of premium fuel. I also run a fuel system additive for the fuel injectors and valves. -----Just my opinion. -----Greg
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    Or then again I have had two Honda's with regular 5k+ oil chages performed by rarely dealer, sometimes myself, and mostly independant garages. Both have had not one engine related issue and have 202,000 miles and 175,000 miles. Lastly they both love 87 octane and I have always gone to the offbrand gas stations due to cost. Look in your manual they will clearly state how premium and additives are a way of raising your operating costs.

    Just keep your receipts for the oil changes and perform the regular maintenace your car will be fine.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    We can agree to disagree. -----Just my opinion. ------Greg
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    I do agree to disagree. The issue I have with your advice which is an opinion is that you get rid of the vehicle at 100k miles so you have no real world experience of what these "great" additives do. They can give people a placebo effect, which if that's what you want great!
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    I'm with you Snarks. I know Greg means well and he wants to take care of his car, but I don't understand why he is spending so much money on maintaining a car that he is going to get rid of when the warranty runs out. Using premium gas (lots studies actually show it causes more problems than any possible benefit when it's not required by the maker), MM oil every tank fuel(great stuff, but if you aren't going to keep the car over 150,000 miles, why bother), 3000 mile oil changes and all inspections done at a Honda dealer (again, save your money go to normal maintenance schedual for service, you will be under warranty anyway). If you add up the cost of an extended warranty, premium gas, MM oil, 3000 mile oil changes, and all Honda Service center fees over a 100,000 miles of driving, you would have been able to cover the cost of a lifetime transmission from AAMCO and a re built engine that you are almost 100 percent garranteed to not need anyway. Just for the record again, I support using the extreme maintenance schedual in the manufacture's manual, not the dealers recommended stuff. I do all maintenance myself and keep receipts and I keep cars 15 years or so. By then I'm ready for something new. Again it's your money and if you can't sleep at night without an extended warranty and all the rest of the stuff, then you have to go down that path. I just think when I know I can save several thousand dollars and I buy a good product, I don't need to protect myself against an extremely rare occurance. I have never bought an extended warranty and I never will. If you buy a good product, the normal warranty rarely lets you down. That's just my opinion anyway.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    100,000 miles is enough on any vehicle! At that point in time my vehicle would be about 6 years old. It is now time to trade it in for either a "new" or "late model" vehicle. Before we owned Hondas, we would purchase two year old GM "off lease" vehicles, put a three year maximum warranty on the vehicle, drive the vehicle for three years, pay the note off and repeat the process. We would get the vehicle at a great price. It was completely serviced prior to delivery, (brakes, tires tune-up --etc). The only maintenance cost to us was oil & filter changes over three years at the dealer. It was like running our own lease program, and we had a trade in value at the end of three years. If a major malfunction did occur, the extended warranty picked up the cost. ----Just my opinion. ----Greg
  • theracoontheracoon Member Posts: 666
    And that's a fine way to deal with your vehicles. Trade them in when they get close to 100,000 and you will have fewer problems. I'm glad it works for you.

    Other people prefer to keep their vehicles longer. One of my friends has a '91 CRX that has over 230,000 miles on it. It still runs great and is fun to drive, too. My '99 CR-V is approaching 60,000 miles and I still think of it as my "new" car. I'll probably keep it until at least 150,000 miles, and maybe longer.

    To each his own. :)
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    There is nothing wrong with getting rid of a car at 100k for warranty fears. But economically it does not make much sense as a trade in value on a 100,000 mile car is nothing great and then depreciation is quite a bit slower as miles rack. Car salepeople like this perception although its dying that they only last 100,000 miles. Realistically most all cars can easily last 150,000 miles without major repair. And some like Toyota Camry's and Honda Accord's and even domestic run into the 200-300k mile range without major repair. The key is regular maintenance. I have and when I was younger my parents always ran cars into and over 200k miles, typically rust (New England) would get them before any serious repairs.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Keeping a vehicle past 100,000 is "ok" if you are willing to put money into the vehicle along the way. Once, I no longer have a warranty to cover major repairs, I do not want to keep the vehicle because I do not want to take the chance of replacing major components.--(engine or transmission). I feel that I have gotten the best operational years out of the vehicle at the 100,000 period of time. Since my vehicles are in excellent condition at that mileage, I used the trade-in value as the down payment on a new or late model off lease vehicle. High mileage vehicles are not dependable. ----Just my opinion. -----Greg
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 13,665
    Getting ready to buy a clean Civic VP as a 2nd car. It has 61K miles on it. What should I look for and can you give me a general idea of what should have already been done to the car as far as maintenace schedules (oil changes every 3K miles? 5K miles? Timing belt? valve adjustments? tune-up?, etc.)

    Thanks!
    2023 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    I would pull the dip stick and look at the color of the oil. I would put my finger in the oil filler cap on the engine to see if there is any sludge in the engine. Pull the dip stick on the automatic trans, and see if the fluid smells burnt. Have a compression test done on the engine. You are at the mileage where a timing belt is in order. Drive the vehicle in all types of traffic. Check the condition of the brakes, suspension steering, exhaust system and suspension. ----Lots of luck! -----Greg
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    Take the car to an mechanic independant of sale. The best $50-$100 you'll spend especially if you are steered away. The t-belt is not due till around 100k on a '99. It should have a service every 30k miles, so at least one with most important being trans fluid change. Forgot about looking at dipstick it will only tell if oil was changed recently or a while ago. Ask for service records if possible, 3k-5k oil changes are fine depends on driving conditions of previous owners. good luck but have someone check over.....
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    I would take this vehicle to a Honda Service Center and have it looked at from a "Certified Vehicle point of view". Let them make a list of what needs to be done. Then you can make an informed decision. It is similar to purchasing a used boat. If you want to know the condition of a used boat, have it surveyed by a professional person who know the product. Yes, there is a "fee" for this service. I would not put off a "timing belt replacement" to 100,000 miles. This would be "penny wise" and "dollar foolish"! If the belt breaks you could destroy the engine.------Just my opinion. -----Greg
  • dudkadudka Member Posts: 451
    I do belive that 99 and on have the timing belt scheduled at 90K. I think my 2002 Si has a timing chain. No need to replace
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 13,665
    Some of the checks I did myself (Oil, burnt tranny fluid, belt/hose/undercarriage inspection) and all checked out. I had an ASE mechanic check everything else (brakes, timing belt, exhaust & CAT, plugs). Honda dealer wanted $150 to do the "once over". My mechanic (who I've done business with for years) charged me $35. I trust him since I know his work and don't know the mechanics at Honda. Everything checked out. Mechanic said the timing belt looks fine and I could probably go another 40K miles on it (which coincides with what his Honda Maintenance book says).

    While you can't tell about frequency of oil changes without pulling the heads and doing a compression check, it runs strong so I should be OK...no blue "puffing" coming from the tailpipe.

    Of a little concern is how the auto tranny shifts...a little harder than I'm used to....but I chalk that up to driving much more expensive cars that have bigger engines and smoother shift algorhythms

    I'll give it a new home tonight.

    $7K for a smooth running Civic VP with 61K miles, good rubber and A/C blowing cold.
    2023 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Lots of luck with your new ride! ------Greg
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Do anyone know how to override the defroster turn off (rear) so that it can be set to on, when an auto starter is used in the morning.

    We have a '03 Civic EX with a nice auto starter installed. We can leave the recircuation and A/C on in the morning and they come back on. But, the rear defroster, shuts off once you shut down the vehicle, even if you do not turn off the button. There has got to be an easy way to override this???? Do anyone out there have the tech knowledge on this???

    To the posts regarding mileage, I sold my 1990 Civic EX with 236,000 miles on it to another solier on base a couple of years ago. I needed a bigger car for very long trips to upstate NY. I cared for the car from day #1 and had a very good dealership (Town and Country, Montpelier, VT) take care of the difficult stuff. I changed the oil at 5K intervals, and never did anything special in the way as additives. Other maintenance was done via myself or the dealership, as regular intervals, by the shop manual. Nothing fancy, nothing high tech. I used regular Exxon Mobil superflo oil, again nothing special. The car, besides the battered exterior from New England winters, burned about 1/2 quart per 5K, almost not enough to add at the next oil change. I used the car extensively in 7 New England winters and two X country trips.

    For those of you discussing REAL world circumstances, this is for you to extrapilate. Those of you that have not owned a car over 200,000 miles or longer, really cannot judge their extras fairly.

    I hope this info is helpful. If anyone knows how to override the defroster so the switch stays on when the car is shut off, please let me know. Again not the rear defroster itself, but the switch.

    Thanks.

    A.Fisch
  • rickmandorickmando Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys, I bought my 03' civic ex back in may, and I hear that you aren't supposed to change the oil for the first 5k miles or 10? In all honesty, I drive this car pretty hard, and I'm concerned that waiting could be harmful. Has anyone changed theirs before 5k?? If anyone can offer any insight it would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks.
  • ncampbell2002ncampbell2002 Member Posts: 163
    Rick,

    I would wait until 5k miles just because it doesn't need to be done until then. I have a 2003 civic ex coupe and have 11000 on it...changed the oil twice so far at 5000 and 10000. I took a little pen light and shined it inside the valve cover and see no build up at all same with my 95 civic I used to own. I was a little hesitant at first about a 5000 mile oil change but I think since the manufactures are producing cleaner, more efficient engines, 5000 miles is plenty for an oil change.....although am kind of comfortable with the maintinence schedule, I still have the mindset that if I'm going to change the oil in my car every 5000 instead of 3000, the only oil going in it is Mobil 1 full synthetic....:)
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    You answered your own question. You stated that you drive your vehicle very hard. Change your oil & filter every 3,000 miles. If you do a search on this topic, you will find different opinions on this subject. If you research Toyota vehicles, you will find that they have a "sludge" problem on some of their engines. Changing oil is a VERY cheap form of vehicle preventive maintenance. (Remember, oil cools, cleans and lubricates moving parts. Dirty oil does not do a good job.) Most dealers have a "quick lube service". I would have this service done at the dealership, so that your service records will all be in one place, should some mechanical issue develop in the future. This is my opinion. I am sure that there will be some people on this board that will have other opinions on this most important subject. It is up to you to make your own decision. Important note! ----I also use premium fuel in both my Honda Civic and Honda Accord, together with an upper cylinder lubricant, (in the fuel / 4 ounces to each 10 gallons), for the rings, valves,& fuel injectors. The "book of Honda" states that you must use 86 or higher octance. It does not say that you cannot use premium fuel. My vehicles run very smooth and quiet. The engines have great acceleration. ------Greg
  • echiang62echiang62 Member Posts: 14
    I just wanted to know if anyone has an opinion on Goodyear Aquatreads as replacement tires for my 2000 Honda Civic LX sedan. Are they good in snow?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    A major newspaper is looking to interview people who recently bought small cars after previously
    driving larger cars or SUVs, despite whether you traded from big to small or if you still have the larger vehicle. He's especially looking for drivers of the Mini Cooper, Honda Civic, Ford Focus, Dodge Neon, Hyundai Tiburon and Mazda Protege. Please respond to jfallon@edmunds.com by Tuesday, October 28, 2003 with your daytime contact info and the type of vehicles you had and have.
    Thanks!

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