Went to get our new SF - put the DVD in for the kids to watch on the way home and it's dead, wouldn't even pull the disk into the unit. Bummer. They gave us a loaner but the new car's been in the shop all day today getting a new DVD unit per the service folks.
Thanks for the explaination. I currently have a radio on order to replace mine but I know now that won't help. This "feature" is not helpfull at all. Every other auto radio I've owned did not do this. I live in Milwaukee where we have many local stations with good signal strength. But the FM is miserable to listen to because it sounds like my left front speaker "drops" on a regular basis. It doesn't do it with AM or playing CD's.
can you determine who makes the radio? perhaps by contacting the manufacturer directly and articulating your issue, maybe there's a "hidden" means to disable the function.
if not, i'd probably just get a better quality after-market unit if the dash would accomodate it.
:lemon: Still having horrible gas mileage! I'm getting between 7.4-8.5 kilometers to the liter. I will be taking my Santa Fe into the dealer AGAIN this week and either they can do something to fix it, or I am getting rid of it. My gas bills are ridiculous! Does anyone own the new Santa Fe or should I go for a Honda if the dealer won't fix my problem!!! Someone help!!!!
i don't know how bad that is, but you want to make sure your vehicle has the tires inflated properly. you want to make sure you don't have a brake dragging and all wheels are spinning freely. you want to make sure your transmission is shifting up through all the gearing and going into overdrive. you want to make sure your engine air intake is not obstructed.
you want to take it out on the highway after filling it and go for several hundred km at nearly constant speed, then stop for a fill and divide distance driven based on the odometer into gallons (sorry liters) pumped...don't rely on some on board computer.
now then, if the fuel economy you obtain is really off the mark after you've checked all the above, then i suppose i would probably suspect (in no particular order): a). stuck injector or injectors b). bad O2 sensor or sensors c). defective catalytic convertor
the above three resulting in running overly rich and/or with poor combustion and exhaust efficiency. your engine is basically an air pump.
d). vehicle timing is off because of timing chain this could negatively impact combustion efficiency and proper power output
e). something else like a defective ECU (engine control unit) integrating the sensing of the O2 sensors, mass air flow sensors, temp sensors, commanding the transmission control unit, etc.
f). maybe an alternator or power steering pump or air conditioning clutch which spins poorly.
If my calculations are right, you are getting approx 12 to 13 liters per 100 kilometers. I read in Canadian Driver that the mileage is 12.6 city/9 highway. So you shouldn't be too far off the posted gas mileage rating. If I'm wrong, please tell me. Gord
not sure how to convert liters to gallons - but I have 2007 3.3 V6 and averaged 23 miles per gallon on my first tank of gas. That is mixed city and highway driving.
Good thought on contacting the manufacturer. I may seek out that route.
It isn't a very appealing feature. As stated above it sounds like the left speaker just "drops out". The so-called digital AM/FM doesn't sound better than a standard radio. As far as an aftermarket unit . . . according to a popular online aftermarket car accessory site, you'd have to "fabricate" your own mounting bracket. Hopefully later in '07 they'll have something. I'll be swapping mine out.
If you are having trouble and are getting an incorrect outside air temperature reading on vehicles equipped with this feature that were manifactured between 17 April - 27 Sep 2006, there is a TSB 06-20-003 dated November 2006 that gives them the info on how to fix it plus the number of the kit they will need.
Repair should take less than an hour.
I have the 3.3 Liter Limited and am having this problem. Part should be at the dealer tomorrow.
To convert litres to Imperial gallons, multiply litres by 4.2. To conver liters to U.S. gallons, multiply litres by 3.8. (For those who remember their grade school, 5 imperial gallons (that is what we use in Canada) is equal to 6 U.S. gallons. If my math is correct, your average is 8 kilometers (exactly equal to 5 miles) per litre. To put that in Canadian terms, your average is 5 times 4.2 equals 21 miles per gallon. In U.S. numbers, your average is about 19 miles per gallon. I believe these figures are close to the company's numbers. How do you drive. Are you "quick of the mark". What speed do you drive when you are on the highway. Both of these factors can have a significant effect on your "mileage" or "metreage" as we say in Canada. Having said all this, as has been suggested, I too would have the vehicle checked but don't be dissappointed if there is little they can do. Would another mile or two per gallon (or one litre less per hundred kilometres)make you happy.
I got my brand new Santa Fe right off the boat. The dealership serviced it for a day then gave it back to me. From the very beginning, there has been an intermittent brake problem. The car brakes fine normally, but when coasting (usually downhill) and applying the brakes, there is often a clunky, scraping feeling underneath the brake pedal. It almost feels like there's an obstacle in there. If I let up on the pedal, it goes away. I called the dealership and explained, and they thought it was just the car "adjusting". Six months later, I took it in for service, and they found nothing, but they cleaned the brakes, and told me I was probably using the brakes too much or too hard. Yet, the problem is still there, no different than before. And I don't brake too much OR too hard, for the record. Any ideas or advice?
I was wondering what a reasonable distance is for the homelink mirror to activate my garage door. So far, we have to be right in front of the door (approx 3ft.) for it work. This does not seem right. Our remotes will activate it from 3 houses down.
Thank u for taking the time to read about my problem. I have a 3.5 '03 Hyundai Santa Fe that has been very good to me. Recently it is shaking (the whole car) when I accelerate up to and over 45 mph. When I come off the accelerator, even or 45 mph, it runs smooth. Once I have to get back on the accelerator to maintain speed, it vibrates again. My mechanic thinks it might be a bad tire belt. We are going to replace the rear tires. Id there anything else we should be checking? Thanks
I just had my keys re-programmed by the dealer after one of the keys didn’t start the car. At first I thought something serious, but then I thought I will try with the other key and it worked. It took about an hour to have the car back, after I hand it over to the dealer. Thankful it’s just a stupid and simple malfunction.
If the tires need to be replaced due to visible defects or wear then by all means but if your just looking to see if the belt is out of wack just put it on a high speed balancer. Also inspect the shafts for defects. If one or more of the wheels has taken a hard strike you may have a bent rim but I doubt it. These rims tend to crack instead of bend and you would notice it. Try this as well, once the shaking begins take it out of gear by placing it into neutral. Let me know if that makes it stop. Is the truck FWD or 4WD? This information is critical if the shaking stops in neutral.
I am overall very happy with the 2007 Santa Fe Limited AWD with 3rd row that I bought 12 days ago. I'm still in the process of checking out all of the features. I think it's a great car for the price and fits our needs perfectly. Our most recent cars were a Toyota Sequoia and a Subaru Outback, which were great when we lived in snow country but not needed now and are too big and too small for my needs of carting a 6yo and a 4yo around, plus extra kids for carpooling. The other issue with the Sequoia is that we live in a semi-urban area and parking is tight. While the Outback is almost 5 inches narrower than the Santa Fe, it's 4 inches longer, which is turning out to be quite significant. We're amazed at how maneuverable the Santa Fe is around our town.
Anyway, on to the minor problems, which I'm collecting before I take my car in. 1) The left rear door does not close properly. I don't think it's an air compression issue, as the other doors close with no problem. My husband thought I was just not slamming it hard enough, but he has the same issue as I do now. I will ask to have the door adjusted. 2) The driver visor does not stay in place. That is, I can adjust it to only certain positions. The passenger visor works better. My Outback had much better visors. 3) On my first tank of gas I got 16 mpg (both manually calculated and based on the car's computer). Admittedly, we live in a hilly area and I do probably 80% city driving, but I'm still disappointed that I'm not getting closer to the EPA of 19 for city. I'll see what I get after a while, but it seems others are reporting better numbers right off the bat.
I'm glad we went to a car show and sat in many different cars in the same class, as I would never have considered a Hyundai otherwise. We had strongly considered a Highlander Hybrid, but it was too uncomfortable in the third row and just not as stylish overall.
Hi, I’m from Hungary, but I work here in the Emirates, in Abu Dhabi. The F1 pictures are from Bahrain GP. There will be some kind of race in Abu Dhabi this Saturday, so I hope that I can upload some more pictures soon
I was wondering if anyone has had similiar issues. A couple of weeks ago my timing belt went out in my 2003 Sante Fe. It was at 85,000 miles so there was no question that it needed to be replaced. Well, that morning before it went out, I noticed that upon start-up the vehicle was idling as if it were cold, but never really slowed down. I also noticed that I have to shift sooner, because I "hear" the engine, and when I monitor the RPM guage, it is even running faster (5-speed, 2.4 liter, 4 cylinder). When I had the timing belt replaced at the repair shop I mentioned this to them, but they checked it out and said that it was alright. I did read where some folks have had problems with the timing belt slipping, causing acceleration problems, but I noticed that this was mainly concerning older model Sante Fes'. I was just wondering if that is the same problem I have here? If it is, do I need to get it worked on fast, to avoid more issues?
After six months of taking the truck in finally I think we have the problem solved. This is for all those that stall out,shaking engine codes that read tranny. Have your mechanic check your coil box. Like I said six months of what next the truck started to miss. Took it to a different mechanic and right away he says I just had an 03 in for the same problem starts out occasionally quits,stalls at stops and then misses all the time. For less then 2 hours of labour and a couple of hundred for the coil it was worth it. The coil box had one coil burnt that when off the engine you could see. I can now idle the truck without it stalling. :P
Does anyone out there know if the 2007 Santa Fe Limited, AWD, Engine has a belt or chain? One of the dealership's sales representatives claimed it had a timing chain and did not have to be replaced like timing belts.
DC --- I have a 2004 Santa Fe with what sounds like the identical stalling problem. Usually occurs 5 minutes or so after a cold start, restart no problem, and doesn't recur for the duration of the drive.It's almost like a clogged fuel filter, but it only has 30,000 miles, so it's unlikely to be that. Initially it happened while idling, but now it will happen while driving as well. It may take 2 or 3 tries to restart. I've had it into the dealer, but they couldn't duplicate the problem. It seems to be getting more frequent, but it still doesn't happen every time. I'm driving it locally and hoping it gets bad enough that it will happen next time i take it to the dealer. I'd be very interested if you or anyone else has input on this.
PELICAN19: I FORGOT TO ASK IF THE TIMING CHAIN HAS TO BE REPLACED LIKE A TIMING BELT OR WAS THE SALESMAN CORRECT WHEN HE SAID THAT UNLIKE THE TIMING BELT WHICH HAD TO BE REPLACED AT 60,000 MILES, THE TIMING CHAIN 'NEVER' HAS TO BE REPLACED. YOUR INPUT WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS. PPB 20070206.2.181900
I took a good look through the shop manuals on this and could not find any reference to any mandatory maintenance on the chains. I also will be bringing in my wifes Entourage for scheduled main and will ask my tech for you...
An engine has either a time belt(s) or chain(s) [Multiple if multi-valve]. The Santa Fe has a belt driven valve system (generally a quieter option). These do need to be serviced at 60k mainly because the engine is an interference design. This means if the timing belt was to break when the engine was running, the valves could hit the top of the piston heads causing either broken pistons and/or bent valves. Neither is good, so you perform the preventative maintanence at 60k: change the timing belt.
Does it take longer to start the car in the cold even if the car is warm (has been running a while). If so, perhaps it's a tune up, if not (only problematic when engine is cold) then you might has a sensor issue (can't tell is engine is warm/cold or other sensors: choke/gas mixture, etc)
It has problem when it is cold even the the engine is warm.
after driving for 1 hour, the engine is fully warmed up. but it is still hard to start after 20 minutes parking hope the dealer could find out , but when I called they just said it is normal ( which I do not think so for a 18-month old car)
with GLS 3.5L AWD Santa fe,( 11K miles on it ) I only get around 12 in city and 15 on highway, so pathetic!
also hard to start the car in this winter although it was fine last winter.( extended to 4-5 second with a very rough start after lengthy cranking.) the dealer said " that is normal "
this is a 16-month new car for me , now , I am pathetic!
well, this is Hyundai santa fe , a smoking tank! ( it always smokes from muffler, but is not as strong as a tank)
We own a 06 Santa Fe. Recently the dealer told my wife that only a Hyundai oil filter can be used or the 10/100000 warranty is void. Is this dealer trying to scare my wife out of the quick lube places - which are much easier to access. Or should we heed the dealer advice and only have the oil and filter changed at the dealer
There is an act called the Magnuson-Moss Act. Basically the dealer would have to prove that the use of an after market filter caused damage directly related to the warrantee claim. This is directly related to warrantee claims on autos.
If I am not mistaken the 10/100000 applies to the power train....ie: what in the world would an oil filter have to do with say a transmission going belly up????
Your dealer sounds like he is using a scare tactic...but do use caution here! Ask the dealer if they ever heard of the act!!!!
Of course, they have lots more $$ than we have and the use of a non conforming part is definately asking for trouble. From what I have been told, currently only The dealerships have the filters for the 07 sante fe's.
I would call Hyundai and ask them directly just to see where you/they stand.
Personally, I am going to let the dealer do my changes on the 07 SF anyway...those quick lube places can be dangerous to the health of your auto!
You could also purchase some genuine filters and have the oil changed by a third party if you wish....ALWAYS GET PROPER DOCUMENTATION of the work done TO PROTECT YOURSELF!!!! just my 5cents!
I dont know what engine you have so I wont give you specific part numbers yet. What I can tell is this, if you plan to do the oil changes yourself or use a third party you must:
Keep DETAILED records of how many miles, date changed, specs on the oil used, specs on the filter used and clearly state the drain plug gasket was changed.
NOTE For best performance and maximum protection of all types of operation, select only those lubricants which: Satisfy the requirements of the API classification. Have the proper SAE grade number for expected ambient temperature range. Lubricants which do not have both an SAE grade number and an API service classification on the container should not be used.
IMO Hyundai may look for a flaw in your maintenance schedule to back out of a warranty claim. For the amount of effort on your part to make sure you comply with there schedule of service and verifying the third party ONLY uses acceptable replacement parts, oils and adheres to specific torque specifications on the drain plug its not worth the trouble. My dealer is less than 5 miles from the house and they charge about the same amount of money for an oil change so I let them do it. If your dealer is not close and they charge quite a bit more, than you may want to consider a third party. If I have not scared the crap out of you yet, provide me with the engine model and I will give you the part numbers and specs out of the shop manuals from Hyundais webtech site. You may also want to look it up yourself. Just follow the link below. For more info on the Webtech site you can visit another Carspace site dedicated to the shop manuals. Good luck.
I recently purchased my third Hyundai in the past 5 years. My first was a 2002 Santa Fe GLS 2.7L AWD, the second a 2005 Elantra GLS, and the third (and final) a 2006 Santa Fe GLS 3.5L AWD. Having bought three I obviously have had somewhat of a positive experience.
However the 2006 has already been to the shop 4 times now for the same problem! It only has 4,200 miles on it and I have owned it now for going on 8 months. The problem is that the lumbar support intermittently collapses. I know it's not an engine bursting into flames but it's still an option that does not work.
Round 1 at the dealership ended up with them stuffing some extra padding in between the lumbar bar and the seat cushion. What a high-tech fix! Seriously, does anyone else see this as "Jerry-rigging"? Ironically the lead mechanic at the shop's name is Jerry too.
Round 2 they looked at it. They decided to order all new innards this time for the seat back.
Round 3 they replaced the seat innards to no avail.
Round 4 they used their super-sensitive X-ray to look it over again. They couldn't find anything that looked out of wack and couldn't duplicate the problem. So they pretty much shoved it back on me and said tough luck.
They wanted me to leave the vehicle with them so one of their guys could drive it for a few days to try to replicate the problem. He lives about 25-30 miles from the dealership so he would only be putting 200-300 miles on it just to substantiate my claim. What a joke! It's funny how the dealership penalizes me for my mileage when I go to trade but they don't seem to mind racking up the mileage at my expense. If someone goes to a Cardiologist complaining of sharp chest pains a couple hours earlier, they expect immediate action. They surely wouldn't expect the physician to put them on a treadmill to try to duplicate the problem if the pains subsided. Obviously they don't believe me that it is still not fixed.
The dealership contact the Hyundai District Manager and he pretty much backed their lame stance.
I contacted Hyundai Customer Service and asked to speak with a manager. To no surprise he backed it too. He said that "unless we can duplicate the problem, the vehicle is operating as designed". So does this mean that the vehicle is designed to fail?
Within my immediate family and counting myself, we have owned 7 Hyundai vehicles in 5 years. We came from Honda and NEVER had a problem in the 10 owned across 20 years. My 1990 Accord had 305k miles on it and still ran fine without ever having a problem before I finally let it go for the 2005 Elantra. Once my parent's 2002 Odyssey had a rare quirk with the A/C and Honda brought in a group of Engineers from the factory to address the issue. Instead my Hyundai dealership calls in the big guns, Don's Trims. WHAT A JOKE!!!!
The bottom line is that Hyundai may claim to have the best warranty in the business but they won't back it up. It's just words! They also claim to value customer loyalty but this is just a ploy too. The suffer from paranoia and practice the art of deception. They question me trying to duplicate the problem in a claim I make while their CEO was indicted for deception. Anybody heard of Enron?
Funny coincedence...I'm looking at other manufacturers (Hyundai) because of Honda's refusal to fix a major design defect.
Hyundai isn't the only company that won't acknowlede design defects...Honda & Toyota both take a hard stance today. Mass production/high volume/cheaper materials is resulting in cars that are ruining the hard earned reliability reputations.
The problem free, 300k+ mile Honda & Toyotas of the past don't exist anymore. The new Camry/Avalon has several transmission & 4 cyl hesitation defects. Honda had high V6 transmission failures (maybe fixed since '05), droning defects, brake shuddering issues, fit/finish squeaks/rattles, & wheel vibrations (Pilot).
"They surely wouldn't expect the physician to put them on a treadmill to try to duplicate the problem if the pains subsided." Sure, its called a stress test.
Seriously tho, Stuffing padding and wanting to keep your car for a few days is simply foolish. Your dealer clearly has no clue. There are several TSB's in print that cover this failure. The fix is simply using a plastic wire tie in some cases. This is clearly a design flaw and you should not be made to suffer. I have owned 01,03 and an 07 Limited Santa Fe's and 1 07 Entourage SE. NO MAJOR failures. Only little annoying ones like yours. The difference between us, my dealer goes out of there way to get it fixed and they are very well trained. Wait for it to fail again and find another shop.
Like you I too have suffered no major failures to date on any of the 3 Hyundai's I have owned. A failing lumbar support may not be a major concern. But if I am having this much trouble over a "petty" thing then what can I expect if I do have a major mechanical failure? It's more of a matter of principle at this point. "America's Best Warranty" on paper carries no merit if they refuse to honor it in practice. Obviously I am very frustrated with this lack of service from Hyundai.
First and foremost the dealership for being flat out incompetent. The "prove it and we'll believe you" attitude ranks right up there too.
Second the Hyundai District Representative for failing to intercede and take action. But I am also curious as to what information he was fed from the dealership too. They absolutely refuse to let me contact him directly. Surely the dealership wouldn't stretch the truth and twist things around so they come out looking squeaky clean? Hmmmmm.
Lastly Hyundai Customer Service for being flat out lame. The Customer Representative was friendly and courteous but it was quite obvious that she had no authority in the matter. She was little more than a bobble head collecting information and trying to diffuse the situation. When I did finally get through to a Manager, he sounded like a fresh college graduate and offered NO thoughts at all. Manager hah! I was trying to address an ongoing issue with my SUV, not order a pizza for delivery!
You referenced that "There are several TSB's in print that cover this failure". Where might I find this information? I hate to be a bother but I really need some help with this problem bad. At least then I could go back to Hyundai with something and MAYBE they will actually do something to resolve it.
I had this problem with my Entourage SE. It has the same manual Lumbar support handle as you do on your 06 Santa Fe.
I would be driving along and boom, the lumber would stop supporting my back as if I lowered the handle. They followed the instructions within TSB 07-60-001. I know this TSB is for my Entourage but they have the same inards with respect to manual lumbar support. Here is the link to the Hyundai Webtech site. Just create an account and go to Service Information. Search for this TSB number. Let me know how you make out.
Hyundai's position is still the same. They cite that this TSB is specific only to the Entourage. Thus my position is still the same, "DON'T BUY A HYUNDAI". THEY DO NOT HONOR THEIR WARRANTY AND THE "CUSTOMER LOYALTY" CLAIM IS JUST A SALES PITCH.
Your Hyundai Dealers position is still the same and that's very sad. I mentioned your issue to my service tech at our Hyundai dealer and he can not understand how your dealership stays in business. He said the linkage and various parts are different but the function is still the same. The guide bar that actually moves the lumbar padding in and out slips. Truly a design flaw. The wire tie keeps it aligned so it can function. He did admit however that they can not justify the work order until they can duplicate the failure otherwise they are not compensated for the work done. Its nothing more than BS Red tape and a good dealership who cares about the customer will get around it.
I totally agree with you. I looked at the TSB and it doesn't look all that complicated. After all, it's just a simple little tie wrap inserted in just the right place. Perhaps I will give a try myself and see if it helps. I am still VERY disappointed in the service/support that I have received from Hyundai though. Most of the blame falls on the dealership but Hyundai Customer Service and the District Representative failed to step up too. But I still suspect that the dealership had something to do with "shaping" their attitudes when they spoke. One certainty is that I will NEVER step foot in that dealership again for any vehicle make or model!
I dont blame you. My 07 Santa Fe Limited and 07 Entourage SE are my 4th and 5th Hyundais owned. I have had only little problems that were taken care of quickly. However, after reading all these issues on these vehicles including yours I am begining to worry. My wife wants to trade in the Entourage for a Veracruz when its available. We may reconsider now.
Good Luck with the truck. Please keep in touch and let me know how you make out...
I don't mean to keep harping but this latest fiasco is just too funny to pass up. I came home Friday night and had a message on the answering machine. It was from someone named Karen with the dealership. She said that their stock on quality used cars was extremely low and they were looking for some high-quality trades or acquisitions. Of course she claimed that they would offer top dollar like they always do before the games begin. Totally unrelated? Maybe. But I do find it ironic and funny under the circumstances. IF I were to stay loyal to Hyundai, I CERTAINLY WILL NOT have anything else to do with this dealership. Right now I tend to think that I will go back to Toyota or Honda in the future. They may not be perfect but they are still rated highest amongst all of the auto makers, and for a reason I take it.
Step 1: Switch to another (Hyundai) dealership Step 2: Contact Hyundai USA Corporate / Consumer Affairs / BBB and make them aware of the issue(s).
I constantly conduct my business at several dealers of the same brand, for various reasons. I would rather drive the extra miles to avoid the hassle and disappointment, but I certainly wouldn't pass up the product (vehicle) itself because of above, regardless of which brand.
Comments
if not, i'd probably just get a better quality after-market unit if the dash would accomodate it.
you want to take it out on the highway after filling it and go for several hundred km at nearly constant speed, then stop for a fill and divide distance driven based on the odometer into gallons (sorry liters) pumped...don't rely on some on board computer.
now then, if the fuel economy you obtain is really off the mark after you've checked all the above, then i suppose i would probably suspect (in no particular order):
a). stuck injector or injectors
b). bad O2 sensor or sensors
c). defective catalytic convertor
the above three resulting in running overly rich and/or with poor combustion and exhaust efficiency. your engine is basically an air pump.
d). vehicle timing is off because of timing chain
this could negatively impact combustion efficiency and proper power output
e). something else like a defective ECU (engine control unit) integrating the sensing of the O2 sensors, mass air flow sensors, temp sensors, commanding the transmission control unit, etc.
f). maybe an alternator or power steering pump or air conditioning clutch which spins poorly.
good luck.
It isn't a very appealing feature. As stated above it sounds like the left speaker just "drops out". The so-called digital AM/FM doesn't sound better than a standard radio. As far as an aftermarket unit . . . according to a popular online aftermarket car accessory site, you'd have to "fabricate" your own mounting bracket. Hopefully later in '07 they'll have something. I'll be swapping mine out.
Repair should take less than an hour.
I have the 3.3 Liter Limited and am having this problem. Part should be at the dealer tomorrow.
This is the only problem I have had.
Have no complaints with gas mileage.
If my math is correct, your average is 8 kilometers (exactly equal to 5 miles) per litre. To put that in Canadian terms, your average is 5 times 4.2 equals 21 miles per gallon. In U.S. numbers, your average is about 19 miles per gallon. I believe these figures are close to the company's numbers. How do you drive. Are you "quick of the mark". What speed do you drive when you are on the highway. Both of these factors can have a significant effect on your "mileage" or "metreage" as we say in Canada.
Having said all this, as has been suggested, I too would have the vehicle checked but don't be dissappointed if there is little they can do. Would another mile or two per gallon (or one litre less per hundred kilometres)make you happy.
thanks
-aaron
Note: I have one of the cycling code type openers so I do have to hold the button down for a second or two until the door begins to open/close.
JCS
I just had my keys re-programmed by the dealer after one of the keys didn’t start the car. At first I thought something serious, but then I thought I will try with the other key and it worked. It took about an hour to have the car back, after I hand it over to the dealer. Thankful it’s just a stupid and simple malfunction.
Anyway, on to the minor problems, which I'm collecting before I take my car in.
1) The left rear door does not close properly. I don't think it's an air compression issue, as the other doors close with no problem. My husband thought I was just not slamming it hard enough, but he has the same issue as I do now. I will ask to have the door adjusted.
2) The driver visor does not stay in place. That is, I can adjust it to only certain positions. The passenger visor works better. My Outback had much better visors.
3) On my first tank of gas I got 16 mpg (both manually calculated and based on the car's computer). Admittedly, we live in a hilly area and I do probably 80% city driving, but I'm still disappointed that I'm not getting closer to the EPA of 19 for city. I'll see what I get after a while, but it seems others are reporting better numbers right off the bat.
I'm glad we went to a car show and sat in many different cars in the same class, as I would never have considered a Hyundai otherwise. We had strongly considered a Highlander Hybrid, but it was too uncomfortable in the third row and just not as stylish overall.
I saw your photo album with your Santa Fe on the desert dunes. Also saw your F1 pictures. Cool! Looks like you're from the middle east. Where exactly?
One of the dealership's sales representatives claimed it had a timing chain and did not have to be replaced like timing belts.
View the online shop manuals at hyundai webtech for more details.
http://www.hmaservice.com
Thank you for the input and website
ppb
20070206.2.173400
I FORGOT TO ASK IF THE TIMING CHAIN HAS TO BE REPLACED LIKE A TIMING BELT OR WAS THE SALESMAN CORRECT WHEN HE SAID THAT UNLIKE THE TIMING BELT WHICH HAD TO BE REPLACED AT 60,000 MILES, THE TIMING CHAIN 'NEVER' HAS TO BE REPLACED.
YOUR INPUT WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS.
PPB
20070206.2.181900
Anthony
it suddenly take longer to start, ( battery is still good)
is that just because cold weather?
It has problem when it is cold even the the engine is warm.
after driving for 1 hour, the engine is fully warmed up. but it is still hard to start after 20 minutes parking
hope the dealer could find out , but when I called they just said it is normal ( which I do not think so for a 18-month old car)
with GLS 3.5L AWD Santa fe,( 11K miles on it ) I only get around 12 in city and 15 on highway, so pathetic!
also hard to start the car in this winter although it was fine last winter.( extended to 4-5 second with a very rough start after lengthy cranking.) the dealer said " that is normal "
this is a 16-month new car for me , now , I am pathetic!
well, this is Hyundai santa fe , a smoking tank! ( it always smokes from muffler, but is not as strong as a tank)
What was the MPG rating on your 3.5 AWD when new?
I intentionally bought the 2.7 FWD to avoid MPG as best as I could in a vehicle of this size.
even that is not easy to reach
If I am not mistaken the 10/100000 applies to the power train....ie: what in the world would an oil filter have to do with say a transmission going belly up????
Your dealer sounds like he is using a scare tactic...but do use caution here! Ask the dealer if they ever heard of the act!!!!
Of course, they have lots more $$ than we have and the use of a non conforming part is definately asking for trouble. From what I have been told, currently only The dealerships have the filters for the 07 sante fe's.
I would call Hyundai and ask them directly just to see where you/they stand.
Personally, I am going to let the dealer do my changes on the 07 SF anyway...those quick lube places can be dangerous to the health of your auto!
You could also purchase some genuine filters and have the oil changed by a third party if you wish....ALWAYS GET PROPER DOCUMENTATION of the work done TO PROTECT YOURSELF!!!! just my 5cents!
Keep DETAILED records of how many miles, date changed, specs on the oil used, specs on the filter used and clearly state the drain plug gasket was changed.
NOTE
For best performance and maximum protection of all types of operation, select only those lubricants which:
Satisfy the requirements of the API classification.
Have the proper SAE grade number for expected ambient temperature range.
Lubricants which do not have both an SAE grade number and an API service classification on the container should not be used.
IMO Hyundai may look for a flaw in your maintenance schedule to back out of a warranty claim. For the amount of effort on your part to make sure you comply with there schedule of service and verifying the third party ONLY uses acceptable replacement parts, oils and adheres to specific torque specifications on the drain plug its not worth the trouble. My dealer is less than 5 miles from the house and they charge about the same amount of money for an oil change so I let them do it. If your dealer is not close and they charge quite a bit more, than you may want to consider a third party. If I have not scared the crap out of you yet, provide me with the engine model and I will give you the part numbers and specs out of the shop manuals from Hyundais webtech site. You may also want to look it up yourself. Just follow the link below. For more info on the Webtech site you can visit another Carspace site dedicated to the shop manuals. Good luck.
http://www.hmaservice.com
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f103a31.f1035d3/41
However the 2006 has already been to the shop 4 times now for the same problem! It only has 4,200 miles on it and I have owned it now for going on 8 months. The problem is that the lumbar support intermittently collapses. I know it's not an engine bursting into flames but it's still an option that does not work.
Round 1 at the dealership ended up with them stuffing some extra padding in between the lumbar bar and the seat cushion. What a high-tech fix! Seriously, does anyone else see this as "Jerry-rigging"? Ironically the lead mechanic at the shop's name is Jerry too.
Round 2 they looked at it. They decided to order all new innards this time for the seat back.
Round 3 they replaced the seat innards to no avail.
Round 4 they used their super-sensitive X-ray to look it over again. They couldn't find anything that looked out of wack and couldn't duplicate the problem. So they pretty much shoved it back on me and said tough luck.
They wanted me to leave the vehicle with them so one of their guys could drive it for a few days to try to replicate the problem. He lives about 25-30 miles from the dealership so he would only be putting 200-300 miles on it just to substantiate my claim. What a joke! It's funny how the dealership penalizes me for my mileage when I go to trade but they don't seem to mind racking up the mileage at my expense. If someone goes to a Cardiologist complaining of sharp chest pains a couple hours earlier, they expect immediate action. They surely wouldn't expect the physician to put them on a treadmill to try to duplicate the problem if the pains subsided. Obviously they don't believe me that it is still not fixed.
The dealership contact the Hyundai District Manager and he pretty much backed their lame stance.
I contacted Hyundai Customer Service and asked to speak with a manager. To no surprise he backed it too. He said that "unless we can duplicate the problem, the vehicle is operating as designed". So does this mean that the vehicle is designed to fail?
Within my immediate family and counting myself, we have owned 7 Hyundai vehicles in 5 years. We came from Honda and NEVER had a problem in the 10 owned across 20 years. My 1990 Accord had 305k miles on it and still ran fine without ever having a problem before I finally let it go for the 2005 Elantra. Once my parent's 2002 Odyssey had a rare quirk with the A/C and Honda brought in a group of Engineers from the factory to address the issue. Instead my Hyundai dealership calls in the big guns, Don's Trims. WHAT A JOKE!!!!
The bottom line is that Hyundai may claim to have the best warranty in the business but they won't back it up. It's just words! They also claim to value customer loyalty but this is just a ploy too. The suffer from paranoia and practice the art of deception. They question me trying to duplicate the problem in a claim I make while their CEO was indicted for deception. Anybody heard of Enron?
:lemon: :sick:
Hyundai isn't the only company that won't acknowlede design defects...Honda & Toyota both take a hard stance today. Mass production/high volume/cheaper materials is resulting in cars that are ruining the hard earned reliability reputations.
The problem free, 300k+ mile Honda & Toyotas of the past don't exist anymore. The new Camry/Avalon has several transmission & 4 cyl hesitation defects. Honda had high V6 transmission failures (maybe fixed since '05), droning defects, brake shuddering issues, fit/finish squeaks/rattles, & wheel vibrations (Pilot).
Seriously tho, Stuffing padding and wanting to keep your car for a few days is simply foolish. Your dealer clearly has no clue. There are several TSB's in print that cover this failure. The fix is simply using a plastic wire tie in some cases. This is clearly a design flaw and you should not be made to suffer. I have owned 01,03 and an 07 Limited Santa Fe's and 1 07 Entourage SE. NO MAJOR failures. Only little annoying ones like yours. The difference between us, my dealer goes out of there way to get it fixed and they are very well trained. Wait for it to fail again and find another shop.
First and foremost the dealership for being flat out incompetent. The "prove it and we'll believe you" attitude ranks right up there too.
Second the Hyundai District Representative for failing to intercede and take action. But I am also curious as to what information he was fed from the dealership too. They absolutely refuse to let me contact him directly. Surely the dealership wouldn't stretch the truth and twist things around so they come out looking squeaky clean? Hmmmmm.
Lastly Hyundai Customer Service for being flat out lame. The Customer Representative was friendly and courteous but it was quite obvious that she had no authority in the matter. She was little more than a bobble head collecting information and trying to diffuse the situation. When I did finally get through to a Manager, he sounded like a fresh college graduate and offered NO thoughts at all. Manager hah! I was trying to address an ongoing issue with my SUV, not order a pizza for delivery!
You referenced that "There are several TSB's in print that cover this failure". Where might I find this information? I hate to be a bother but I really need some help with this problem bad. At least then I could go back to Hyundai with something and MAYBE they will actually do something to resolve it.
I had this problem with my Entourage SE. It has the same manual Lumbar support handle as you do on your 06 Santa Fe.
I would be driving along and boom, the lumber would stop supporting my back as if I lowered the handle. They followed the instructions within TSB 07-60-001. I know this TSB is for my Entourage but they have the same inards with respect to manual lumbar support. Here is the link to the Hyundai Webtech site. Just create an account and go to Service Information. Search for this TSB number. Let me know how you make out.
http://www.hmaservice.com
Good Luck with the truck. Please keep in touch and let me know how you make out...
Step 2: Contact Hyundai USA Corporate / Consumer Affairs / BBB and make them aware of the issue(s).
I constantly conduct my business at several dealers of the same brand, for various reasons. I would rather drive the extra miles to avoid the hassle and disappointment, but I certainly wouldn't pass up the product (vehicle) itself because of above, regardless of which brand.
Applies to almost every large purchase I make.