Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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FYI.. both cars had large crowds around them last night. I'm guessing these cars will be as big a hit as was projected.
P.S> I took my wife's cavalier in for a fuel filter and oil change and was told I need a transmission tune up/service. Whatever, had it done 3 months ago by my VERY trustworthy mechanic. He couldn't do the fuel filter thanks to some funky GM part on there. So when I told the guy over the phone it was done 3 months ago I was told, oh well the level on fluid it too high. Man I hate GM dealerships when it comes to service..........sorry had to let it out of me but what a damn scam!!!!!!!!!
We have the 5 speed and I too noticed that it can be fussy to start. It seems you must fully press in the clutch to start it...more so than most standards. When I trimmed our winter mat a little so it didn't interfere with the clutch, the starting has been fine. You just have to remember to fully depress the clutch....or turn the key on while you press in the clutch and keep pressing the clutch until it starts. After the first couple of starts, I've had no problems.
I feel very feminine while driving the Matrix, OOPS.
Anyway, everyone is entitled to their own opinion. so be it.
Really up to you.
btw, this will be my first time buying a car. do u think the dealer would be a little more willing to negotiate if i told them i will be paying it off on the spot?
Believe it or not, the largest PROFIT center for dealers is financing. They get their money immediately when you finance, because your contract is SOLD to the lender. Most dealers do not like cash sales--they even have to be reported to the IRS immediately if you pay more ten thousand or more dollars in cash (not a check).
Get you information upfront, be polite, be honest but be firm, and don't be cowed! Good luck!
Separately, my gas mileage is way up there . . . as long as I drive the XRS as though it was an XR. During the break-in period, I've been trying to keep the RPM's below 4500. The car is just great. Thanks to all for helping. Pete
I am very specific with my cars, I want exactly the color combo I want, and exactly the options I want.
To get that on my Matrix, I have to wait until the dealer is allocated a Matrix XRS 6speed. Then, once he gets allocation, they can call up Toyota and play with that car to change it to the colors and options that I want. They just can't turn in an order for me. So, best case, I'll be waiting 8 weeks for mine, worst case, god only knows.....
Sigh, getting my Caddy STS was SO much easier.
Maybe it's more an issue of the salesman not wanting to do a special order. In my experience, salesman in general don't like to do orders unless they absolutely must.
The dealers aren't negotiating in this area. You pay MSRP and in my case a deposit while they search for the car you want. Ordering is possible but they told me it could take 2-5 months.
The dealer makes a COMMISSION, sometimes QUITE sizable, if you finance through one of his (or her) sources.
Therefore, oftentimes, you can get a better deal by paying with credit than with cash. Most buyers leave this money on the table, though, by agreeing to a price BEFORE financing. Dealers love this. Another opportunity to make more money (along with accessories, credit life, warranties, etc.)
If the dealer can match the financing I can get myself, I usually go through the dealer. They are business people, too, and need to make money to stay in business. It's only fair. On the other hand, if I can get a better deal myself, I take that. That, too, is only fair.
On the topic of getting a better deal, your logic doesn't make sense. Assuming what you say is accurate, any discount received (on a purchase) would be eaten pretty quickly with the interest paid on a needless loan. Why would you pay interest on a loan if it is not necessary to do so? Incidentally, Manufacturer's new car loans are cheaper than what other financial institutions can offer. If financing is necessary, it would only be logical to finance at a lower rate.
I will agree that the dealer will make additional money with add-ons (undercoating, accessories, etc.). However, loan insurance and extended warranties are managed separately.
Toyota Credit (Canada) was created, as a separate identity, to offer customers new car loans (or leases) at a reduced interest rate and to increase new car sales. Depending on the model, the reduction can be substantial. Please note that I am strictly talking about new car loans in Canada.
By the way, we just traded our 1998 RAV for a 4WD XR on Saturday. It will have to be ordered. It should be in within the next 4 to 6 weeks.
Hopefully when the dealer gets his next allocation, (near the end of the month) he'll be getting a Matrix XRS 6-speed. Then he can customize it to fit my options and accessories.
For the record, I requested:
XRS 6-speed
17" wheels
Side Airbags
All Weather Package
Navigation System
Wheel Locks
Rear Bumper protector
cargo mat
floor mats
Security System
Auto Dimming Mirror.
MSRP $22,259.00
Agreed price $20,639.00
Cross your fingers that he gets one allocated to him this month....then if so, it's a 6-8 week wait from there.
even rustproofing.Anyone no what kind of steel toyota is now using and what are they doing to prevent rusting? Is it effective?Manufacturers used to print lots on how good their cars are built ,but now its all about options.Will rustproofing void the warranty ?
Why have they gone to 16" and 17" tires ?
How reliable is the fancy valve tecnology?
I don't think new cars need undercoatings -- that one really seems like a rip off to me. After a few years of travel where rocks may damage the original coating I think it is worthwhile to add some rust treatment/protection but on a new car it seems silly to me.
Big wheels? A recent survey of things desired by car buyers had wheels way up there, well above the engine which wasn't even in the top 10 IIRC. I think big alloy wheels are heavy and expensive to repair, and usually have expensive short-lived tires to go with them but that's just me. They do look cool with disc brakes underneath but they aren't really very practical at all.
"I think big alloy wheels are heavy and expensive to repair, and usually have expensive short-lived tires to go with them but that's just me. They do look cool with disc brakes underneath but they aren't really very practical at all."
You've got that right. I'm waiting for the day when people who are now raving about how cool their big alloys are start to notice that they're paying $800 for new tires every 25K miles, and their car vibrates on the highway because the expensive wheels are all bent and distorted. Toyota has enough trouble making 14" and 15" wheels strong enough to survive curbs and potholes. The 16" and 17" sizes don't stand a chance. If you must drive a car with big wheels, make them steel wheels. At least you can bang those straight with a hammer if they get damaged. Just try THAT with an alloy rim :-)
-Andrew L
Personally, I have owned many cars with alloy wheels and the only problem I have had was with salt blemishing the surface.
Also, can you really say that Toyota has trouble making alloy wheels? I thought they bought them from outside suppliers. I know my subaru wheels and the ones on my wife's former Mazda MX3 seemed to have the same supplier logo on them (JB or something).
You are half right. The original intent of alloy wheels, when they were developed for racing purposes in the '60s, was indeed to save weight. Some alloys are significantly lighter than steels. However, two things happen to offset this.
1) Aluminum alloys are not the strongest metals out there. If OEM alloys were made as light as possible, they would be bending and cracking left and right. Ask a Mitsubishi Eclipse owner about this. In order to make an alloy wheel that can stand up to some real world road abuse, they can't use the lightest possible alloys and structures.
2) In many cases, the optional OEM alloys on cars are a size or two larger than the standard OEM steels. They're also wider. This difference is size can easily offset the difference in weight.
As for the wheels coming from suppliers: I'm not sure exactly who is responsible for the engineering of the wheels. Part of the problem with the Toyota wheels is not the wheels themselves, but the tires. The 14" wheels on the '02 and older Corolla have tires whose sidewalls are inappropriately narrow. This problem exists with both the steel and alloy Corolla rims because they use the same tires, but the steels generally don't get damaged too badly and can be pounded straight, while the alloys get destroyed. You wouldn't believe what it costs to buy a new OEM alloy wheel from Toyota. Most of them are well over $300, some over $400 per wheel.
Being in the wheel trim business, I often get a firsthand look at the damage that occurs to different types of wheels. My experience is that alloys on passenger cars, where the tires are not big enough to protect them, have a much greater propensity to get destroyed in impacts than steels. Take a look at this:
That's a modern OEM alloy wheel (Lincoln Town Car, to be exact) which split completely in half when it hit a pothole. I have never seen anything like that happen to a steel wheel. Just food for thought.
-Andrew L
Tire noise is usually due to the actual tire, not the wheel size.
We compared and measured .The distance between wheel wells was more than old 4-runner and floor is flat and hatch window opens and hinges don't stick in the area.And rear seat knee room with front seats all the way back is huge.
The Matrix is a terrific small wagon, IMO, that seems overpriced with the expensive marketing packs that Toyota is including on most of them.
Damax07
Remember the first rule of sales is sell what U have.The second rule of sales is sell what U have.
Stick 2 U'r guns.And check Toyota on line 2 see what U can get.
He wouldn't say how long the wait would be, anywhere from 2-8 weeks. I'm glad he was honest about being uncertain, better than promising me something he can't deliver.
Paid a little more than $16k, not a great deal, but for a base model vehicle in a brand new model, a dealer would have to be nuts to sell for below sticker. That price included tags/registration and they hit me up for $100.00 floor mats #$%&@ing dealers!
The model I test drove was an XR and they were asking $2k over the sticker to drive it off the lot that day (last Saturday 2/16).
Handled real well had great acceleration to get up to highway speed.
Protege5- better handling, cheaper, better seats, been on the market for more time, cleaner lines.
Matrix-better cargo area, Toyota brand quality, better stature or presence, better standard features (adjustable intermittent wipers, better door lock system, air filter).
Any thoughts? I am leaning towards the Protege5 today, mainly because of the price but it only $1000 difference.
To rpgroppe- Congrats on your new Matrix! We look forward to hearing to hearing more. Happy motoring!
Revka
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Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
I think they are both very stylish. I'm going between #1 wrx (performance, but stylishly out of date) #2 Matrix (style, very modern) #3 protege5 (stylish and costs are low)...
so i'm in the same boat as you. I look forward to our Dallas autoshow next week!
Also, I got a coupon for $500 of any new Toyota at a local dealer. Is this for real or is it just another Scam to get you into the showroom?