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Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair



  • bp3959bp3959 Posts: 156
    Nope, they only work with the key, this is to prevent draining your battery.
  • sovangsovang Posts: 56
    For those of you that have a 2004 Sequoia, is it normal for the brake pedal to make clicking sound when pressed and depressed? I don't recall hearing that on any of my other vehicles. Also, I don't recall this clicking sound when I first got my Sequoia.


  • husky92husky92 Posts: 56
    It would be a safety hazard if you could close the rear window with the remote since you can easily close it from inside the house or a great distance away without actually seeing what or who might be in the way.
  • jbanvillejbanville Posts: 20
    Why is it a hazard when the other windows will reverse themselves if they feel an obsruction? Then Toyota should either put an all-weather switch for the window beside the handle for the rear liftgate or they should put a tiny infrared eye on the rear door and put an emitter in the remote so you must be within a certain distance and be pointing the remote at the door to close the window.
  • sovangsovang Posts: 56
    Just in case it helps someone else on this board, my brake pedal clicking problem turned out to be a bad spring. This is the small spring that is attached to the brake pedal. When you push down on the pedal, it stretches the spring. That was what made the clicking sound.

  • bp3959bp3959 Posts: 156
    My dealership has restored my faith in Toyota today. I bought my 2001 Sequoia about 1 year ago with 51k miles on it, I have 89k today. When I bought the truck I specifically asked about the AC TSB to make sure I wouldn't have problems in the future, they pretended to look it up and the next day told me that that TSB didn't apply to my VIN.

    Well a couple weeks ago my AC compressor locked up, looked up the TSB myself and sure enough I had been lied to by the sales manager when I bought the truck. Unfortunately the TSB is only good up to 36k miles. Contacted the service manager at my dealership and explained my story to see if they could help out with this $2,000 repair job. The response I recieved today is they will cover the parts and only charge 3 hours of labor as well as give me a brand new landcruiser to drive around for the day. This means I'm only in for a $200 repair job instead of $2,000! I'm absolutely amazed by this especially since this isn't even the same dealership I bought the truck from, new owners and employees, only thing the same is the building they are located in. More dealerships needs to work this way, take care of the customer and the customer will stick with you. This dealership has gained a longtime repeat customer because of this bit of generosity.
  • sb55sb55 On an Island in VermontPosts: 319
    I was on the highway yesterday and noticed that the oil pressure gauge was below "L". All of the other gauges were fine. I pulled over and checked the cap and oil level and tried to find the sensor thinking it may be a loose wire. (It has mobil 1)
    I didn't find any obvious problem and drove home (with no apparent problems) At one point, the gauge went up to the 1st mark, but then back down to "L".
    This morning it was quite cool and when started, the gauge went up to the top mark, then gradually down to the center. I am not feeling too good about it, so took it to the dealership. While driving down, about 15 miles, the gauge was up to the 1st mark most of the time, but when idling before turning it off, it was back down to "L".
    Since it's Sunday, I'll have to hope they will look at it for me on Monday. We are supposed to leave on vacation on Wed. AM, so it's a hassle at best and could be a disaster if it's not an easy fix.

    2007 Miata PRHT, 2014 BMW 535d X-drive, 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Ext. cab with 6.2 V-8

  • sequoiasoonsequoiasoon Posts: 223
    Had the same problem twice on my '03. TSB # EL017-03 is for low oil pressure.

    This TSB updates EL006–03. TSB EL006–03 is now obsolete and should be discarded.
    Some customers with Sequoia or Tundra vehicles may encounter an oil pressure gauge
    that reads abnormally low at idle. An updated oil pressure sender has been created to
    address this condition.

    The oil pressure sender screws in right above where the oil filter is. They replaced mine while I waited in about 20 minutes. 2 months later it happened again and then they replaced the receiving unit which was some OUTRAGEOUS price but covered under warranty so I didn't really care. Had to drop it of night before the second time for convenience but by 9AM got the call it was done. Hasn't happened since. Comment on repair order was "second service for same problem, replaced receiving unit"
  • bilsexbilsex Posts: 5
    I installed air lift air bags and they are great. My boat trailer would have required major mods to use an EZ lift. The bags leveled the load and the handling was very stable at all speeds. I do not feel the need for a sway control unit. I have towed this boat extensively with other trucks/suv and the toyota performs as well as or better than the 03 exp,2000 durango,04 f150 super crew. Thanks for the input.
  • lcd1lcd1 Posts: 147
    My 2001 Sequoia with 27K miles started making some noises in the driver's door last summer while it was still under factory warranty. It sounded like something was loose inside the door, particularly when the window was being rolled up or down. I finally took it in about two months after the factory warranty expired to have the problem diagnosed and fixed along with a transmission flush. It turned out that a nut securing the motor of the powered window was loose. The dealer tightened the nut and charged $92.00. I bought Toyota's 6-year, 100K miles extended warranty but was told that it does not cover nuts. Has anyone experienced this loose nut problem problem or the absurdity of such a charge?

    In July 2003, one of the side mirrors on my Seq. was vibrating badly that I couldn't use the mirror. It was a loose screw/nut problem. I think Toyota must have had a batch of cars that had improperly torqued screws/nuts.
  • lcd1lcd1 Posts: 147
    I got the Platinum warranty but it does not cover nuts. It happened that one of the nuts securing the driver's door power-window was loose and making noises and I was charged $92 for tightening it. According to the dealer, nuts are not covered under the warranty. The problem began while under factory warranty. I couldn't bring the car in for checkup until about two months after factory warrant expired. Even though I bought the Toyota's extended warranty, I feel that I got screwed.
  • sb55sb55 On an Island in VermontPosts: 319
    Re my post 746, yes it was the sender and was fixed under warranty. So far, so good.

    I too was gouged by a dealer. I couldn't get the locks to NOT engage while putting the car in gear, so asked the dealer to deprogram it during it's regular service appt. It sounds so simple in the owner's manual, but I couldn't get it to work, even after reading several posts here! They charged $47.50 for what should be a 5 minute thing!! My wife picked up the car and didn't question the charge. When I saw the bill, which was outrageous for a maintenance sevice anyway, I called the dealer to complain. They said this was their normal charge to reprogram, but to placate me they sent me a coupon for a free oil change. I use Mobil 1, and am sure the coupon will cover that. LOL

    2007 Miata PRHT, 2014 BMW 535d X-drive, 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Ext. cab with 6.2 V-8

  • bp3959bp3959 Posts: 156
    If you have time, would you mind posting the instructions from the manual to reprogram the door locks. I've always wanted to reprogram them but my manual has no such instructions(2001 Sequoia).
  • bp3959bp3959 Posts: 156
    Update: Finally got my truck back last night with the AC fixed. Ended up costing me $278 and they took care of $1600 in charges. This is outstanding considering I'm 53,000 miles past the 36k the TSB is good for.
  • sb55sb55 On an Island in VermontPosts: 319
    I wish I could have done it. The reason I needed the dealer was because it wouldn't wook per the owners manual instructions. Go back to previous posts on this board. I tried their tips, but still couln't get it to work.

    2007 Miata PRHT, 2014 BMW 535d X-drive, 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Ext. cab with 6.2 V-8

  • sequoiasoonsequoiasoon Posts: 223
    BP- Unfortunately you need to go to the dealer if you want it changed. Toyota changed it for '03 so the owner could do it. Prior to that it has to be done through the hand held unit the dealer has.

    SB55- The owners manual leaves out that you need to release the lock after 5 seconds as the last step if I recall. I bought the repair manual CD from e-bay ($20 total, shipped) and it has everything on it. Programming door locks, spare keys, spare remotes, wire diagrams, maintenace procedures etc. A well spent $20 for me.
  • bp3959bp3959 Posts: 156
    Any idea what modes there are to choose from? I'm curious as to what other items could be reprogrammed.
  • lcd1lcd1 Posts: 147
    Thanks to a posting in this forum I was able to get the dealer to fix the boomy bass and rear fader problem, which are covered by the TSB. I should get the truck back today and hopefully will hear an improvement.

    As for my previous posting about being charged $92 for tightening a nut securing the motor powering the driver's window, the same dealer still maintains that since the car is 2 months out of warranty and the Platinum warranty doesn't cover nuts, they had to charge me $92. Any suggestion who/where to take this issue to next? Toyota said the dealer is their eyes and ears. Apparently, the ears seem deft and eyes seem miopic. Thanks.
  • sequoiasoonsequoiasoon Posts: 223
    Lock choices were:
    Auto lock when removed from park.
    Auto lock at/above 20 mph.
    Auto unlock by Ignition switch (drivers door must be opened within 10 seconds of turning off ignition)
    Auto unlock when back in park.

    All 4 choices are independent and a yes/no option.

    So, Yes, you can have it lock when you put in drive, make sure it's locked at 20 mph, unlock when you park and make sure it's unlocked by opening drivers door, or any combination of them (or not).
  • fattyfatty Posts: 1
    I bought a new 2004 Sequoia SR5 last night. I drove it home from the dealership and spent half an hour inside reading the owner's manual. Then, I went outside to play with the folding seats, etc., trying to figure the best way to seat my three kids. I settled on tumbling the smaller segment of the middle seat forward, so that two kids can easily get to the third seat and one can sit in the other segment of the second seat -- pretty standard arrangement. I leaned in to do something, and put my hand down on the bracket to which the tumbled seat hitches when it is in the normal position. That bracket was HOT!! Not hot enough to cause a significant burn, but definitely hot enough to hurt a child.

    The bracket is directly above the muffler. I write to ask if anyone has approached Toyota about installing a heat shield between the muffler and the bottom of the car, so that the exposed brackets aren't a hazard.
  • jbanvillejbanville Posts: 20
    First, to 'fatty': That won't work. If you ever accelerate hard, the seat that is folded up will fall back and crush whatever is under it. And I have never checked nor noticed an part of the seat bracket becoming too hot to touch.

    Anyway, I cotacted Toy corporate about my dissatisfaction with our '04 2wd Seq. It makes a rubbing sound w/ vibration from the front end when it rolls through a turn at any speed. The dealer heard/felt it, and replaced the front wheel bearings. They said another Seq. on their lot does it, so they think it is normal, but my OEM Bridgestones may be making it worse. After contacting Toy corporate, the local dealer is going to do some more research to see if they can track down any more complaints or figure out what is wrong.
  • jeannejeanne Posts: 2
    I am considering a Sequoia; I use an SUV to deliver wedding cakes and other desserts. I need a second row seat to be flat (no incline) and I've had to rule out Highlander, Pilot, MDX, BMW, etc. because the only vehicle I've found is the Jeep GCherokee which I will never buy again.
    Could current owners let me know how the seats work? Thanks, Jeanne
  • bp3959bp3959 Posts: 156
    The second row is a 60/40 split fold, both of them fold up against the front seats and can be tied in that position.
  • petro33petro33 Posts: 192
    The second row of seats do tumbes forward and are held in place by a strap. But that strap CAN come loose loeing everything on the floor. How about the sion, they have the small car with huge cargo space.
  • bp3959bp3959 Posts: 156
    If you have problems with the straps coming loose, just move from seats forward and inch, strap the second row tight, and move the from seats back and it'll never come loose.
  • petro33petro33 Posts: 192
    Good suggestion and I'll use that on the drivers side. Unfortunatly where we alomoist always strap up the second row is the one behind the passengers side and my wife likes to change positions on the seat on long trips, making this technique hard.
  • m0000m0000 Posts: 5
    Hey toyonoise, I've experienced this drivetrain rumbling/vibration as long as I can remember (25k miles now) but only really pinned it down to the drive train on a recent road trip.

    The dealer felt it on the highway and is giving me the old "that's normal" BS.

    Can you let me know the email address you used to get accountability at Toyota? I'm not sure where to escalate this. neko(at)
    Thank you!
  • raymurraymur Posts: 29
    Just had the windshield replaced on my 2001 sr5. The new upper molding has a 1/4 inch gap between the top of the molding and the edge of the roof,it is not the same as the original molding. Installing Glass company indicates that this is the correct molding.
    My feeling at this point is that the glass company installed it incorrectly because the part number they used,for the molding, is correct. The glass company refuses to correct this problem. Has anyone one else had a similar problem?
  • hogtiedhogtied Posts: 1
    I just bought an 04 Limited and on a 1200 mile trip noticed a vibe in the floors also, just thought it was me. I traded off my 95 T100 and it had a vibe at 3000 RPM, sitting still or driveing down the road. Dealer changed the muffler and it never did go away. 85,000 miles later it was still there. This Sequoia sure has the power, ride and quality I expect from Toyota. If anything does go wrong I know Toyota will be there, big thing is pick the right dealship with a service department you trust.
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