Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon

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Comments

  • gotwrxgotwrx Member Posts: 52
    I was very intereted to read about special automatic driving techniques and it makes sense that it would be so. I'd love the hear more about that.

    Tim
  • hunter001hunter001 Member Posts: 851
    Go read post# 1441 in this same thread and you will find the reason why the 17"s would accelerate much better than the stock 16s.

    Basically 2 reasons:

    a) Tire/wheel weight reduction by 3.5lbs per tire/wheel. Reduces rotational inertia, since rotational mass has a much greater impact than static mass on raw acceleration. Someone estimated that rotational mass of 1 lb = 12 lbs static mass. Which is why you find some people trying to lower the weight of the wheels, to reduce this rotational mass. But sometimes some folks lower the weight of the wheels and fit on large and heavy tires that invariably takes the overall tire/wheel weight above that of the combo that they replaced, thus negating any gains from the lighter wheels. But in the BBS/RE011 17"s case, the overall combo is 3.5 lbs/tire-wheel lighter than the stock 16"s with the RE92 All-season tires.

    The more important reason is:

    b) Gear ratio reduction due to 1/2" lower diameter of the 17" tire/wheel combo, which helps in better accelerative punch in every gear. In case of the Automatic-WRX, the 2nd gear would take the car to 74mph thus 0-60 is acheived in the 1st and the 2nd gears. Thus a reduction in ratio would give additional thrust throughout the 0-60 run, even if we ignore the effect from the lighter wheels/tires.

    So if someone "estimates" that the 16s would be faster than the BBS/RE011 combo, they are talking without any logical basis or making blanket statements out of ignorance.

    Later...AH
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I put Motor Trend right up there with Family Circle magazine when it comes to auto review accuracy.

    Even Edmunds missed about half a dozen or so changes on the Forester that are important to any enthusiast (I listed them in Future Models).

    -juice
  • keithllb1keithllb1 Member Posts: 30
    of being just a little to main stream, not a good magazine to read un biased performance reviews. My question is this, I am thinking about taking my wagon to a SCCA Auto Cross event, should I add any mods to my car before I do so? Sway bars & Tires come to mind? I don't know what their criteria is? Thanks.
    Also,is armor-all a good thing to use on the interior of the wagon?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Depends what class you want to run in. You can do front sway bar and stay and tires (on the 16" rims) and stay in stock class. If you want to go to STX or SM you can do more mods.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    For now, I would stay stock. The modified class is ultra-competitive, and if you change your mind your car is not as driveable as it once was.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    At the very least get a set of tires. If you plan on auto-xing a lot, get some R-compounds. If you want to try it out use your Blowtenzas and when they wear out get a decent set of tires. I'd reccomend an extra set of rims cause whatever tires you use for Auto-x you won't want to be using on the street.

    -mike
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    AH, you're just plain wrong. I'll repeat once again that 1/2" tire diameter is insignificant in determining 0-60 acceleration.

    Traction is important, but with AWD even the RE92s have a decent bit of it in a straight line.

    The $3000 wheels are just plain stupidity. Marketing guys hoping that consumers would spring for something wild... it would've been far smarter to offer a more affordable cast 17" wheel. The 215/45-17 is chosen over 225/45-17 to ensure that no rubbing occurs even on heavily loaded wagons.

    -Colin
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Don't forget AH lives in a theoretical world, not based in reality. He likes to surround himself with figures from web pages, and calculations, rather than real world experiences...

    -mike
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    That's the point I was trying to make in my reactionary way. :-)

    Stephen
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Let's not gang up on people. AH often offers a counterpoint that keeps this thread interesting.

    Besides, he'll just bring out the stiffer springs and VTD argument again! ;-)

    -juicr
  • prayerforprayerfor Member Posts: 161
    Let's imagine we're sitting at a dragstrip with a WRX wagon and 8 wheels with tires -- a set of 4 that are light and a set of 4 that are heavy (aside from their weight the wheel/tire sets are otherwise identical). I think everyone would agree that if we install the light set on the car and store the heavy set in the trunk, then do some 1/4 mile runs, we'll get better times than if we swap the heavy set onto the car and store the light set in the back (despite the fact that the total weight of the car has remained unchanged). This is owing to the fact that the rotational mass created by the light wheels is lower than the rotational mass from the heavy wheels.

    I'm no physicist but I could buy that... the car requires more power to spin the wheels *on* the car than it does to tow the wheels *in* the car.

    Now let's create another case with a set of 4 short wheels/tires and a set of 4 tall wheels/tires (this time weight and all else beside diameter is identical). If I understand correctly, AH is saying that we will again see different 1/4 mile times when we swap sets, with the advantage going to the short set *on* and the tall set *in*.

    This is where it gets real hazy for me... something to do with changing effective gear ratios. I can certainly see how the car's speedo will read differently from one set to the next, but in terms of the car's true velocity at any point in time, I don't see how one set is different than the other. If AH or someone else can explain why this would be I'd appreciate it.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    AH is right, but the difference will be extremely small, perhaps not even big enough to measure accurately.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    juice -- Family Circle! LOL!! Best comparison I've heard yet.


    Anyone seen these new 17" rims offered by Subaru?


    http://www.subaru.com/shop/IMPREZA/WRXSEDAN/accessories/17in_5_spoke_alloy.html


    They're a lot cheaper than the 3K multi-spokes.


    Ken

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Nice wheel, and it shouldn't be too hard to clean. Is it a factory option now? Looks like a US web site.

    -juice
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Dave-
    [no, not talking to myself]
    (a) 4 light tires on and 4 heavy tires in trunk weighs the same as (b) 4 heavy tires on and 4 light in trunk?...
    Not my forte, that's why I'm lost ;)
    OK, gross weight will be the same either configuration (a) or (b). But say light tires = 20 lbs and heavy tires = 30 lbs, won't (a) have to lug/move 40lbs more than (b)?
    Is there a Physicist in the house? :D

    -Dave
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    juice,

    That's from the Subaru.com website. It comes up as one of the options for the WRX.

    Perhaps it was in reaction to the criticism about the $3K 17" wheel option.

    Ken
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    require more torque to accelerate their rotation than do light wheels. Period.

    Ross
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    are the latest option from Subaru...they are the same wheel as on the B4.
  • cinosweivecinosweive Member Posts: 166
    You just don't need 'em. What you really need is something to protect the dash. And while we're on that subject, does anyone know of a low-gloss alternative to Armorall? Armorall used to make one but they have discontinued it.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    As juice stated, the smaller diamter tires will produce more acceleration off the line due to the better gearing produced by them. But if you did this test with an average driver the difference would be so small that it wouldn't even be noticable.

    -mike
  • hunter001hunter001 Member Posts: 851
    Goodness gracious, when you come back after a couple of hours, you find 18 un-read posts !!

    As paisan and juice stated above, basically your manufacturer published gear ratios are dependent on the stock tire/wheel diameter. If you change the stock diameter to a lower size, it would reduce the effective gear ratios and vice versa if you increased the diameter. Reduction in gear ratios would aid in acceleration but the downside to a lower diametered tire/wheel is inaccurate speedometer and also phantom miles in your odometer.

    Later...AH
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Smaller wheels yields more gas consumption and higher RPMs to attain the same speed.

    But if it's close to stock (I'd say less than 5% difference) you aren't going to notice an appreciable difference.

    -mike
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    I use Vinylex, made by the Lexol people...great stuff, not too shiny...
    The Only Serge
  • wrxdriverwrxdriver Member Posts: 6
    I thought all the people who said that black paint was a pain to keep clean were full of XXXX. I was wrong. The black paint shows every spot, every imperfection in the wax job, every mote of dust and pollen sticks to it and makes it look funky. Also, when the birds perch above the car it is painfully obvious.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    like I said, I was (am?) particularly dense about the black paint thing since Kansas is ridiculously dusty. my wife's black miata stays what I would truly call "clean" less than 24 hours even after a serious handwashing and fresh wax. good wax does help somewhat, btw.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Don't even get me started on how hard it is to keep a black car looking clean! ;-)

    However, for those into detailing, nothing beats the feeling of washing and waxing a black vehicle into a lustrous shine.

    After two black cars, I'm going with a metallic dirt color next.

    Ken
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    Ken, that's one of the reasons I'm so happy with Rufus. His gold colour is an almost perfect match for the dust and mud of the areas where I flyfish. Unless you get close you might miss the 1/2" thick layer of filth! My kind of car.
    :-)
    Does this confession mean that I have to turn in my OCD certificate?

    TheOneAndOnly Ross
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I keep hearing good things about vinylex. I'll try some soon.

    Shorter gearing can hurt 0-60 because it may require an extra shift. Shifts take 0.3-0.4 seconds and hurt your momentum.

    Having said that, the Forester needs 3rd to hit 60. I think it redlines around 58mph. So 0-60 times are slightly artificially low.

    Colin: white isn't much better. Next one will be either silver or champagne. Though I prefer beer, usually. ;-)

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Re Black, I totally agree there is nothing as satisfying as a beautifully clean black car,unfortunately it only stays that way for about ten minutes.

    Like Colin I had four black cars before swearing off black forever, after almost driving my poor wife insane with the last black car, she swore she would divorce me if I ever showed up with another one.

    She does not have to worry I am cured forever, The titanium is a great colour for hiding the dirt, am I ever glad I chose this colour.

    Cheers Pat.
  • gotwrxgotwrx Member Posts: 52
    So I think its pretty clear that the wheels used have absolutely nothing to do with poorer (relative to the sedan) 0 to 60 times reported by various "magazine" tests for the wagon. (R&T Sedan Test 0-60 5.7s on Stock)

    This leaves the wagon itself and the automatic transmission as the primary suspects. Others have reported 0-60 ~ 5.8 for the stock manual wagon which would appear to leave the transmission.

    It is speculated that either driving technique and/or an "untrained" transmission is to blame.

    As I understand it, to achieve the best 0-60 you redline through each gear which means in the 5sp you should get to 60 in second gear (ie in one change)

    Not sure on the automatic's gear ratios but it would seem to me that you would get the best 0-60 results doing a break launch and manually changing up on the redline. This should work regardless of any adaptive aspects the transmission may have. It seems just as legitimate as a drop clutch launch.

    If this is so (it seems obvious to my non automatic brain but what do I know) wouldn't R&T do this? They drive a heck of a lot of cars and I can't believe they don't know all the tricks of driving an auto.

    I'm can believe the adaptive bit makes the auto perform better in regular driving which could account for other negative comments but perhaps not for the 0to60.

    Tim
  • gotwrxgotwrx Member Posts: 52
    since it late and you won't be having your daily wheel size discussion 'til tommorow :)

    From what I can infere since they do not say, it appears that they did not use any special techniques to do the 0 to 60 measurements. My main evidence for thinking this is the statement in the text, "Only under constant full throttle use or manual shifting can the WRX really strut its stuff". If so then comparison with the sedan's time may be a little unfair and the adaptive thing may be a factor after all.

    But, like was said above somewhere, still won though!

    Tim
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well having some expertise on driving ATs in "performance" situations here is my take on how you'd get a WRX AT to do the fastest 0-60 time.

    Put the car in the "3" setting, pre-load up the revs to about 2500-3000RPMS and let her fly with the gas fully depressed. You will hit 60mph in 2nd gear because the gearing on an AT only has 3 gears plus overdrive 1st and 2nd are longer than in an MT. If you try to shift it "manually" from 1->2 it will slow you down and if you put it in "2" the car will start in 2nd gear to prevent slippage on ice. I recently tried these various methods out while racing my dad's '97 Legacy L at auto-x where I took 2nd place in my class I might add :)

    My older XT6 with AT allows you to put it in "2" and this will allow you to start in 1st and shifts to 2nd but not beyond 2nd gear. Too bad you can't do that on the AT WRXs cause that would be even better for the AT.

    -mike
  • hunter001hunter001 Member Posts: 851
    Shorter gearing can hurt 0-60 because it may require an extra shift. Shifts take 0.3-0.4 seconds and hurt your momentum.

    The 2nd gear of the Auto-WRX is good until 74mph, due to which, shorter gearing would work perfectly here. But the 2nd gear of the manual-WRX is I believe good until 64mph or so, due to which shorter gearing might necessitate an additional shift, depending on how much shorter the gearing becomes. Similarly the 2nd gear of the other Auto-Subarus (non-WRX) also peak around 62mph or so.

    Later...AH
  • seamus53seamus53 Member Posts: 13
    The MT test was the first WRX Wagon test I'd seen withe the 17" wheel/tire upgrade. A pity they didn't test an automatic. AH would have had his dream test, because MT stated they used their "long term" WRX tester for this comparison test. So one would assume it was already properly broken in for agressive driving.

    With all the talk of acceleration times going round, I thought I'd mention the handling portion of the MT comparison test. The WRX, even with its expensive wheel/tire upgrade, finished last (3rd) in the handling ranking, behind the Matrix and the Mazda P5. They certainly didn't say the WRX handled poorly. But its 3rd place finish was still surprising to me.

    I know that some folks over at i-Club (maybe here as well) have commented that the "type" of handling evaluations used by the the magazine (slalom tests) didn't favor a suspension set-up like the WRX uses. Maybe this is true. I don't have the expertise to know one way or the other. I'd have thought that a magazine handling ranking would (or certainly should)include actual "real world" road/track impressions as well as formal slalom tests, but maybe not. As some have mentioned, MT is not the magazine of choice for many folks.

    However, I was still frankly disappointed that the AWD WRX, with top notch (and expensive) wheels and tires, still finished behind the FWD Toyota Matrix and Mazda P5 in the handling evaluation. To me, this seems to indicate that, at least on well-maintained, dry roads, AWD does not necessarily provide the all-conquering advantage many folks think it does. Of course, in poor traction conditions, or on poor/unpaved road surfaces, the AWD advantages would certainly become more clear.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Don't forget they do these slalom test on smooth as glass clean tracks. When was the last time you saw a road you could eat off of? Didn't think so. So they are merely theoretical tests. They are much lighter cars due to FWD and can probably be tossed around easier. But in the real world, I think the results would be drastically different. Also Subaru may have not made their donation like Ford and Toyota did to MT.

    -mike
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    Remember the wagon comes w/the measly 17mm rear swaybar whereas the sedan has the 20mm rear swaybar. I tell you from firsthand experience that the change to a 20mm bar makes the world of difference even on stock tires. I've since done this upgrade and changed the front to 22mm from stock 20mm, also added a new rear strut bar (see mod section for pics) and 17"tires/wheels. Hardly the same car in the twisties or on the smooth streets (as Mike alluded to, whereever that is?).
    Additionally, I agree w/Mike, in the real world you would see quite different test results! :-)

    Stephen
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You must have far less body roll than stock. I like you're way of thinking, chassis first, then traction. I'd go to the brakes next, and only then the engine.

    -jucie
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    I think I'm (for now that is...redundant caveat)going with steel braided brake lines and Porterfield pads. Later I might upgrade calipers and rotors.

    The Vishnu pkg should be here sometime next week.

    Stephen
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Are those struts?

    -juice
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    No, that's the power upgrade pkg:

    ECU chip
    Uppipe
    Sparkplugs
    Underdrive pulley
    MBC

    Stephen
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    How much and what hp are we talking about?

    -juice
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    $995 for approximately 280 crank HP. What's exciting is how it improves off-boost torque.

    Stephen
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    that's thanks mostly to the catless uppipe, some credit to the ECU remap and a little to the underdrive pulley.

    -Colin
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    You nailed it Colin! :-)

    Stephen
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    So what's the deal with the "colder sparkplugs" then?

    Ken
  • ponmponm Member Posts: 139
    Within the past week I have had several comments on my car. The first being last saturday while I was washing my car, I noticed an older, professional type gentleman with silver hair walking down the street towards me and as soon as he was close enough he said in a british accent, "Lovely color if I made add." Oh yes, even the brits love the car. Second, I was at a stoplight waiting for the light to turn green as the woman next to me yells over, nice car, what kind is that. I replied back, "A subaru wrx!" She questioned, "A Subaru what?" "A WRX!" "Well whatever it is, I like it." Third, and finally I was driving and happened to drive past my local subaru dealer that happens to be on a very busy road at a very busy intersection. So I was creeping along out front of the dealership as I noticed two subaru salesmen walk out from inside just to wave to me. One of them screamed out that my car is a beauty. I kindly replied with a thank you and screamed out over the traffic if they knew when the sti version was coming. They had no idea, but do you think a ford or even a honda salesmen would come out just to wave. I thought that was pretty cool.
  • ialexanderialexander Member Posts: 4
    My 2002 WRX seems to perform well on some days, and average on other days. I can really feel the turbo kick in on the good days, but the average days I feel nothing. Any tips on what I can try?

    Ivar
  • ialexanderialexander Member Posts: 4
    How much better performance does the Subaru performance exhaust provide? Is it noticable?

    Ivar
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Ken... more boost = higher cylinder pressure = colder plugs probably needed to keep combustion chamber temperature in the proper range.

    There's limits obviously. Too cold of plugs and they'll foul when idling.

    -Colin
This discussion has been closed.

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