Stoner420, I didn't realize the WRX had a resonator. I thought it had four cat. converters and one muffler. My car is still within the warranty and I'm hesitant to make any modifications. What's involved? Also, I remember reading the message some time ago detailing how to perform the grounding mod. Do you remember where that message is? I'm about due for an air cleaner. I have a K & N filter in another car. They get dirty more quickly but cleaning and oiling them is a minor inconvenience. Think I'll pick one up today. I was considering a boost gauge so I can keep an eye on things but the Subaru gauge I found on their web site is a little pricey at $250. It looks on the small side, maybe hard to read quickly. What's your opinion? Are they a worthwhile investment?
Ctwrx brings up some good points about the mods affecting the warranty. I asked my Subaru head mechanic in Herndon Va, about mods to the brakes and he says that the cars were designed to perform at an optimum level meaning, best reliability + performance = reliable and predictable performance with reliable and predictable reliability. But I think certain mods do raise the performance levels of the car w/o sacrificing the reliability and integrity of the car. I am wondering how Brembo brakes would sacrifice the integrity of the car or it's handling capabilities, the same can be said for suspension system upgrades like sway bars and bushings? I am not a mechanic, that is why I am here looking for some qualified opinions. I also suffer some low end turbo lag, and have at times suffered from irregularity in rate of acceleration from a low rpm start. Any remedies that aren't earth shattering in cost and risk? Once I get the car over 3000 rpm's it can run with any Audi s4, or Saab. But before that time arrives, it has a hard time keeping up with Mom and Dads Van??? I Love this car, and these thoughts are just me looking to make a very good performing car an even better performing car. Thanks.
hi..I am a subie newbie and generally new to performance vehicles...I have a new 03 wagon and am planning to get mods like k & N filters, turbo gauge, greddy exhaust, ECU etc. Does anyone know of a place in NJ/NY that would install them for a reasonable price? If anyone here is interested in doing it, let me know and I'll bring the beer and pizza. Thanks.
Recently I posted about my first ding. I've tried to take this in my stride, s*** happens. Today on the freeway I got a stone chip on my windshield, right in the middle. In the past year I've already replaced a windshield on this car due to a large crack. Are Subie windshields thinner than others, I have never had to replace one in twenty years of driving, now I go through two in six months? Is my car a rock magnet? Or am I just lucky?
or so I'm told. When I first started following Subes in '97, some folks were commenting that Subaru glass was thin.
My wife's '99 OB Ltd needed a new front windshield, and that wasn't cheap. After six months, my WRX wagon needed a new windshield after also getting hit by a rock.
The first time I mentioned to the glass guys that I heard that Subaru glass was thin. The guy said there was "no such thing as thin glass". It's just the shape of the car.
When I had my windshield replaced, the guy said that it was the aerodynamics of modern cars and Subarus in particular.
Well we have 1 customer who put on the Extremes and wound up spinning his car in the dry. So I'm not sure I can give that a thumbs up just yet. He could have been driving whacky or what not who knows, but that's the only real-world experience I've come in contact with.
There is something to the thin glass issue. Auto makers have to choose between the better insulating effects that thicker glass offers and the weight savings that thinner glass affords.
I believe that I read that the sti was created with a thinner rear window glass simply to eliminate some weight. I don't know about the general car population, but suspect there is some difference between brands and quite possibly between models within brands.
Anyone have the subaru standard issue rear cargo tray? Is it a rigid plastic? I want to put in some sort of protective liner that is flexible for easy removal as well as giving me some level of sound reduction from the cargo area. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I have the cargo tray (Subaru item J5010SS100) in my wagon. It is rubber and does a good job of keeping the trunk clean, and its reasonably easy to remove.
However, I'm not too sure about its sound insulation properties. I suppose it would deaden sounds if they were coming from the spare tire well area.
I think I will head over to the dealership and have a look see at the tray. I am tired of vaccuming the back every time I haul stuff and the carpet is already getting worn in a few spots.
I also have the cargo tray in my wagon, and appreciate it. It's simple to remove and hose off when necessary. Certainly worthwhile for 50 bux or whatever.
I had two windshields crack in my '00 Accord coupe due to rock strikes. My WRX wagon has been hit numerous times with hard strikes and nothing has cracked or chipped yet. shrug. (no whammies, no whammies...)
Just installed a 20mm OEM sway bar last night that I picked up from a local guy with an '02 sedan. Definitely seems a bit more interesting now :-) .. less lean on turns, and you can tell the back is just a bit more happy to move around, but didn't seem excessive either.. <-- big fan!
and they are still sliding around. Dry grip definitely not as good as the RE92's, IMO. Nice riding tire but that's not what us WRX owners buy the car for.
If I had it to do over again, I'd get the Dunlop SP5000's--less unsprung weight, better dry handling.
My SP5000s did great at LRP and VIR for me I'm satisfied with them for my "daily" driver SVX, Rs for Auto-x and Track and snow/mudders for the Trooper for winter. I may get a set of snows for the SVX for the xtra set of rims I have but i doubt I'll get summer tires for it even when the SP5000s wear out.
But any driving I do on the streets should be way way less than what the SP5000s are capable of. If I'm driving beyond the limits of the SP5000s, then I should be on the track with dedicated track tires. As should anyone who's out there "tearing up the streets" it's as bad as street racing IMHO.
Colin: As wet as it's been here in the East this spring and summer performance all-seasons make as much, if not more, sense than dedicated summer tires.
BTW I paid quite a bit for a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S and they do very well in all conditions. Then again I have a Forester, not a WRX, so what do I know about performance?
The best wet weather summer tires have awesome wet weather traction. I'd take a Bridgestone S-03 or Toyo T1-S over any all-season tire if I had to drive in the rain a lot.
My last car (a bmw 5-series, current model) had firehawks on them (not from the factory) and I really enjoyed them. (firestone - "exploding" with performance - hahaha) I think they were sh-50 or something like that. I was quite impressed by their traction wet/dry and the price was cheap too. Still couldn't accelerate fast when it was raining, but I've solved that problem now (re:wrx).
No problems accelerating in the rain with the current generation Firehawks. The new ones are called SZ50EP's and use similar technology to the Bridgestone S03's.
The difference is night and day compared to RE-92's.
Just had my 04 wagon tinted and a full clear bra installed last week -- it looks great. The tint is a necessity here with 100+ degree temps and a weak AC...the difference is pretty substantial. Instead of the fan living on the highest setting all the time, I can keep it on 2-3 and stay cool. Plus, the black windows look great. Unfortunately, the shop put the darkest tint on all 7 windows...I had wanted light tint on all 7. Besides being illegal, it's impossible to see out of at night when backing up. Oh well...it's better to look good than to feel good...
The clearbra is quite possibly the neatest upgrade I've ever done to a car...the bra is completely invisible from most angles, and only has the slightest visible line across the hood/fenders when seen from up close. After looking at kits that have been on cars for more than 2 years, the 3M film looks to be quite durable and really saves the front end of the car. Highly recommended for the OCD set who can't stand looking at rock chips!
Now, what to do next? Hmmmm...17" wheels, AccessECU, exhaust....
There are several companies that cut the film into kits -- Stongard, Xpel, Rockblocker, etc. I found that local installers of the product were partial to their specific kit and were not really open to installing a kit purchased online...unfortunately, this precluded me from using the Rockblocker kit, which cost a fraction of the other kits for the materials. Call around to find an installer if you order a kit online, it may be tough.
I went with the XPEL kit that was installed by a local shop. Xpel and Rockblocker use the same 3M film as Stongard, but are less expensive. The differences in the cut of the kits weren't enough to justify the added expense of Stongard, although Stongard does have a longer warranty if that matters to you.
For $650, this is not cheap protection, but I do think it's worth it...there's nothing I hate more than looking at a sea of rock chips on a new car. From talking with a few people that have had the 3M film on their car for more than a couple of years, it looks like this stuff will live up to its claims and remain invisible on the car.
Email Chad at Rockblocker.com to see if he's got an installer in your area -- if he does, I would recommend you go with their kit and save some money...he's offering the full front kit for about $260 plus installation. That's HALF what Stongard wants for the same stuff. Otherwise, Xpel's kit seems to be a great product for the money.
Thanks for the leads on bras. On to something meatier...
Okay, here's a sincere question for dedicated motorheads.
Perhaps you've read that the 2.5 motor in the XT and STi, in addition to electronic throttle control, variable valve timing, heavy duty con rods, forged pistons, also has a beefed up rear main bearing cap to keep the crankshaft from wobbling(???). Wobbling? So C & D reports.
Should any or all of this be of any practical significance to a prospective WRX buyer? I believe I understand the relative advantages of the former features, but this thing about wobbly cranks -- is this something to ponder. I never noticed that my Legacy's crank was out of joint.
Similar to yours, my last driver's car was a '99 M3. And, I agree (reading your comments at the XT forum) its gearing -- absent a sixth gear -- was perfect.
I'll look forward to your response to Ken as to whether you think the XT's ratios are closer to the mark than the U.S. WRX.
I have a new 2003 WRX wagon. Some I#@%& dinged the bittom of my rear door in the parking lot. It is a crease about 3 inches log with a little paint loss. Do I try to fix it myself using touch up paint and ding remover or take it to the shop? If I should take it to the shop, do I take it to the dealer or some body shop? How much $$ is this going to set me back...I am really mad....Thanks.
I went to Dent Wizard for paintless dent repair. It cost $99 and you can't even tell the dent was there. It only took 1 hour, and I would definitely recommend some type of paintless dent repair shop. The chance to make it worse is definitely there if you do it yourself.
Fortunately, I did not have any paint damage. I would get the dent repaired first, then try some touch up paint if you think the mark is visible. I would think that unless the paint loss is very visible, it would be better not to use any touch up since that might make it worse.
I happened onto the Dent Wizard approach years go, and heartily endorse it (as do car dealers, though they don't advertise it, preferring customers believe that cars on their lots have never had a mishap).
Initially, I thought it was too good to be true, and a friend of mine who owns a body shop told me it was snake oil, just like a turf-protecting, dogmatic doc, who tells patients not to avoid ANY alternative healing methods.
I've used a local outfit in the north Bay Area called Dent Dynamics, which also makes custom tools for this type of repair.
Like the medical arts it's good to ask how many of these procedures the person working on your car has successfully done, as good eye hand coordination and experience matter.
If the crease or dent has a sharp enough edge to it, the sheet metal's "memory" may be a little deranged, meaning that a slight residual wave or ripple could visible if viewed at a certain angle or under certain lighting conditions. Your repairer should be able to tell you pretty much what to expect, before even touching the car.
Overall, I've been completely satisfied with the results.
Comments
I didn't realize the WRX had a resonator. I thought it had four cat. converters and one muffler. My car is still within the warranty and I'm hesitant to make any modifications. What's involved?
Also, I remember reading the message some time ago detailing how to perform the grounding mod. Do you remember where that message is?
I'm about due for an air cleaner. I have a K & N filter in another car. They get dirty more quickly but cleaning and oiling them is a minor inconvenience. Think I'll pick one up today.
I was considering a boost gauge so I can keep an eye on things but the Subaru gauge I found on their web site is a little pricey at $250. It looks on the small side, maybe hard to read quickly. What's your opinion? Are they a worthwhile investment?
I Love this car, and these thoughts are just me looking to make a very good performing car an even better performing car.
Thanks.
Drop paisan aka mike an e-mail
-Dave
My wife's '99 OB Ltd needed a new front windshield, and that wasn't cheap. After six months, my WRX wagon needed a new windshield after also getting hit by a rock.
The first time I mentioned to the glass guys that I heard that Subaru glass was thin. The guy said there was "no such thing as thin glass". It's just the shape of the car.
When I had my windshield replaced, the guy said that it was the aerodynamics of modern cars and Subarus in particular.
-Dennis
-mike
I believe that I read that the sti was created with a thinner rear window glass simply to eliminate some weight. I don't know about the general car population, but suspect there is some difference between brands and quite possibly between models within brands.
Anyone have the subaru standard issue rear cargo tray? Is it a rigid plastic? I want to put in some sort of protective liner that is flexible for easy removal as well as giving me some level of sound reduction from the cargo area. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
John
I have the cargo tray (Subaru item J5010SS100) in my wagon. It is rubber and does a good job of keeping the trunk clean, and its reasonably easy to remove.
However, I'm not too sure about its sound insulation properties. I suppose it would deaden sounds if they were coming from the spare tire well area.
good luck,
Phil
John
Dave
-juice
-mike
If I had it to do over again, I'd get the Dunlop SP5000's--less unsprung weight, better dry handling.
-Colin
-mike
-Colin
-mike
Ed
There are plenty of UHP and MP tires that feature excellent wet handling. You get what you pay for.
As much as I love the SP5000 on my 2.5RS, they just don't stick as well in the wet as the RE750s on my Prelude, or the S-03s I had prior to those.
BTW I paid quite a bit for a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S and they do very well in all conditions. Then again I have a Forester, not a WRX, so what do I know about performance?
Ed
Yesterday out in SE PA (with Ed and a bunch of other Scooby nuts), I was pushing my Firehawk's pretty hard on rain-slicked hilly, twisty roads.
-Dennis
The difference is night and day compared to RE-92's.
-Dennis
The clearbra is quite possibly the neatest upgrade I've ever done to a car...the bra is completely invisible from most angles, and only has the slightest visible line across the hood/fenders when seen from up close. After looking at kits that have been on cars for more than 2 years, the 3M film looks to be quite durable and really saves the front end of the car. Highly recommended for the OCD set who can't stand looking at rock chips!
Now, what to do next? Hmmmm...17" wheels, AccessECU, exhaust....
Love me some of this car!
B
-Dennis
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=406137&am- p;referrerid=767
In short, the oil still had life in it at 5,427 miles. It was dirty though, so I cleaned my Amsoil air filter.
-Dennis
-juice
-Dave
http://www.xpel.com
I went with the XPEL kit that was installed by a local shop. Xpel and Rockblocker use the same 3M film as Stongard, but are less expensive. The differences in the cut of the kits weren't enough to justify the added expense of Stongard, although Stongard does have a longer warranty if that matters to you.
For $650, this is not cheap protection, but I do think it's worth it...there's nothing I hate more than looking at a sea of rock chips on a new car. From talking with a few people that have had the 3M film on their car for more than a couple of years, it looks like this stuff will live up to its claims and remain invisible on the car.
Email Chad at Rockblocker.com to see if he's got an installer in your area -- if he does, I would recommend you go with their kit and save some money...he's offering the full front kit for about $260 plus installation. That's HALF what Stongard wants for the same stuff. Otherwise, Xpel's kit seems to be a great product for the money.
Brian
The other key is to make sure to put it on ASAP after you get the car, once there is a nick in it the stuff won't stick right.
-mike
-Dave
Okay, here's a sincere question for dedicated motorheads.
Perhaps you've read that the 2.5 motor in the XT and STi, in addition to electronic throttle control, variable valve timing, heavy duty con rods, forged pistons, also has a beefed up rear main bearing cap to keep the crankshaft from wobbling(???). Wobbling? So C & D reports.
Should any or all of this be of any practical significance to a prospective WRX buyer? I believe I understand the relative advantages of the former features, but this thing about wobbly cranks -- is this something to ponder. I never noticed that my Legacy's crank was out of joint.
Cheers.
interesting though, there is no "main bearing cap" on a horizontally opposed engine. there are two case halves.
poor terminology on their part, but I know what they're talking about.
-Colin
I'll look forward to your response to Ken as to whether you think the XT's ratios are closer to the mark than the U.S. WRX.
Fortunately, I did not have any paint damage. I would get the dent repaired first, then try some touch up paint if you think the mark is visible. I would think that unless the paint loss is very visible, it would be better not to use any touch up since that might make it worse.
Initially, I thought it was too good to be true, and a friend of mine who owns a body shop told me it was snake oil, just like a turf-protecting, dogmatic doc, who tells patients not to avoid ANY alternative healing methods.
I've used a local outfit in the north Bay Area called Dent Dynamics, which also makes custom tools for this type of repair.
Like the medical arts it's good to ask how many of these procedures the person working on your car has successfully done, as good eye hand coordination and experience matter.
If the crease or dent has a sharp enough edge to it, the sheet metal's "memory" may be a little deranged, meaning that a slight residual wave or ripple could visible if viewed at a certain angle or under certain lighting conditions. Your repairer should be able to tell you pretty much what to expect, before even touching the car.
Overall, I've been completely satisfied with the results.