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Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon
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I didn't realize the WRX had a resonator. I thought it had four cat. converters and one muffler. My car is still within the warranty and I'm hesitant to make any modifications. What's involved?
Also, I remember reading the message some time ago detailing how to perform the grounding mod. Do you remember where that message is?
I'm about due for an air cleaner. I have a K & N filter in another car. They get dirty more quickly but cleaning and oiling them is a minor inconvenience. Think I'll pick one up today.
I was considering a boost gauge so I can keep an eye on things but the Subaru gauge I found on their web site is a little pricey at $250. It looks on the small side, maybe hard to read quickly. What's your opinion? Are they a worthwhile investment?
I Love this car, and these thoughts are just me looking to make a very good performing car an even better performing car.
Thanks.
Drop paisan aka mike an e-mail
-Dave
My wife's '99 OB Ltd needed a new front windshield, and that wasn't cheap. After six months, my WRX wagon needed a new windshield after also getting hit by a rock.
The first time I mentioned to the glass guys that I heard that Subaru glass was thin. The guy said there was "no such thing as thin glass". It's just the shape of the car.
When I had my windshield replaced, the guy said that it was the aerodynamics of modern cars and Subarus in particular.
-Dennis
-mike
I believe that I read that the sti was created with a thinner rear window glass simply to eliminate some weight. I don't know about the general car population, but suspect there is some difference between brands and quite possibly between models within brands.
Anyone have the subaru standard issue rear cargo tray? Is it a rigid plastic? I want to put in some sort of protective liner that is flexible for easy removal as well as giving me some level of sound reduction from the cargo area. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
John
I have the cargo tray (Subaru item J5010SS100) in my wagon. It is rubber and does a good job of keeping the trunk clean, and its reasonably easy to remove.
However, I'm not too sure about its sound insulation properties. I suppose it would deaden sounds if they were coming from the spare tire well area.
good luck,
Phil
John
Dave
-juice
-mike
If I had it to do over again, I'd get the Dunlop SP5000's--less unsprung weight, better dry handling.
-Colin
-mike
-Colin
-mike
Ed
There are plenty of UHP and MP tires that feature excellent wet handling. You get what you pay for.
As much as I love the SP5000 on my 2.5RS, they just don't stick as well in the wet as the RE750s on my Prelude, or the S-03s I had prior to those.
BTW I paid quite a bit for a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S and they do very well in all conditions. Then again I have a Forester, not a WRX, so what do I know about performance?
Ed
Yesterday out in SE PA (with Ed and a bunch of other Scooby nuts), I was pushing my Firehawk's pretty hard on rain-slicked hilly, twisty roads.
-Dennis
The difference is night and day compared to RE-92's.
-Dennis
The clearbra is quite possibly the neatest upgrade I've ever done to a car...the bra is completely invisible from most angles, and only has the slightest visible line across the hood/fenders when seen from up close. After looking at kits that have been on cars for more than 2 years, the 3M film looks to be quite durable and really saves the front end of the car. Highly recommended for the OCD set who can't stand looking at rock chips!
Now, what to do next? Hmmmm...17" wheels, AccessECU, exhaust....
Love me some of this car!
B
-Dennis
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=406137&am- p;referrerid=767
In short, the oil still had life in it at 5,427 miles. It was dirty though, so I cleaned my Amsoil air filter.
-Dennis
-juice
-Dave
http://www.xpel.com
I went with the XPEL kit that was installed by a local shop. Xpel and Rockblocker use the same 3M film as Stongard, but are less expensive. The differences in the cut of the kits weren't enough to justify the added expense of Stongard, although Stongard does have a longer warranty if that matters to you.
For $650, this is not cheap protection, but I do think it's worth it...there's nothing I hate more than looking at a sea of rock chips on a new car. From talking with a few people that have had the 3M film on their car for more than a couple of years, it looks like this stuff will live up to its claims and remain invisible on the car.
Email Chad at Rockblocker.com to see if he's got an installer in your area -- if he does, I would recommend you go with their kit and save some money...he's offering the full front kit for about $260 plus installation. That's HALF what Stongard wants for the same stuff. Otherwise, Xpel's kit seems to be a great product for the money.
Brian
The other key is to make sure to put it on ASAP after you get the car, once there is a nick in it the stuff won't stick right.
-mike
-Dave
Okay, here's a sincere question for dedicated motorheads.
Perhaps you've read that the 2.5 motor in the XT and STi, in addition to electronic throttle control, variable valve timing, heavy duty con rods, forged pistons, also has a beefed up rear main bearing cap to keep the crankshaft from wobbling(???). Wobbling? So C & D reports.
Should any or all of this be of any practical significance to a prospective WRX buyer? I believe I understand the relative advantages of the former features, but this thing about wobbly cranks -- is this something to ponder. I never noticed that my Legacy's crank was out of joint.
Cheers.
interesting though, there is no "main bearing cap" on a horizontally opposed engine. there are two case halves.
poor terminology on their part, but I know what they're talking about.
-Colin
I'll look forward to your response to Ken as to whether you think the XT's ratios are closer to the mark than the U.S. WRX.
Fortunately, I did not have any paint damage. I would get the dent repaired first, then try some touch up paint if you think the mark is visible. I would think that unless the paint loss is very visible, it would be better not to use any touch up since that might make it worse.
Initially, I thought it was too good to be true, and a friend of mine who owns a body shop told me it was snake oil, just like a turf-protecting, dogmatic doc, who tells patients not to avoid ANY alternative healing methods.
I've used a local outfit in the north Bay Area called Dent Dynamics, which also makes custom tools for this type of repair.
Like the medical arts it's good to ask how many of these procedures the person working on your car has successfully done, as good eye hand coordination and experience matter.
If the crease or dent has a sharp enough edge to it, the sheet metal's "memory" may be a little deranged, meaning that a slight residual wave or ripple could visible if viewed at a certain angle or under certain lighting conditions. Your repairer should be able to tell you pretty much what to expect, before even touching the car.
Overall, I've been completely satisfied with the results.