Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

roadburner

If I win one of the 8-9 cars in the BMW CCA raffle I'm either ordering:
1. A M240i automatic in Sunset Orange with Cognac leather. Every option box checked with sunroof delete and M Performance Locking Differential, or...
2. A M2 manual in Long Beach Blue with only the Executive Package or...
3.A M2 Competition Package in Sunset Orange(I'd have to wait about 8 months...)
That is all...

oldfarmer50

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office.


Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry.

Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support.

While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job.
What do you think another service department will tell you?

I have to agree, no one is going to give advice on this from a liability perspective. As I've said before on a car this technically complex the potential downside really outweighs any savings.

I think driver100 (grandpa) should quietly shop for a suitable replacement and present it as a gift to the grandson. For under $5,000 he can probably pick up a safe more reliable transportation type car that will let him sleep nights. If he thinks it will cause a family rift for circumventing dad, he can offer to trade "his" car for the X3.

Just make sure the grandson promises not to share it with the dreaded SIL.

Here's one:



https://toronto.craigslist.ca/tor/ctd/d/2004-honda-pilotex-4wd-8/6326240356.html

Although I think the dealer left a 1 off the front and a zero off the back on the milage. CL ads in Canada list km instead of miles, right?

oldfarmer50

roadburner said:

If I win one of the 8-9 cars in the BMW CCA raffle I'm either ordering:
1. A M240i automatic in Sunset Orange with Cognac leather. Every option box checked with sunroof delete and M Performance Locking Differential, or...
2. A M2 manual in Long Beach Blue with only the Executive Package or...
3.A M2 Competition Package in Sunset Orange(I'd have to wait about 8 months...)
That is all...

I'd have to see this orange color. Sounds not classy enough for a BMW.

roadburner

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

If I win one of the 8-9 cars in the BMW CCA raffle I'm either ordering:
1. A M240i automatic in Sunset Orange with Cognac leather. Every option box checked with sunroof delete and M Performance Locking Differential, or...
2. A M2 manual in Long Beach Blue with only the Executive Package or...
3.A M2 Competition Package in Sunset Orange(I'd have to wait about 8 months...)
That is all...

I'd have to see this orange color. Sounds not classy enough for a BMW.

tbirdmarco

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P6KSfG-HE3o

driver100

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office.


Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry.

Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support.

While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job.
What do you think another service department will tell you?

I would like to know the exact reason it is or could be unsafe. Although, I agree, it sounds like a crude way to fix a car...no one has said, exactly why it shouldn't be done. We can imagine what may go wrong...but, do we know? Sure it is a hack job, but, maybe it could actually be done without affecting safety.

You have said it is a "hack job", your SA says it is a "hack job", I tend to think it is a "hack job",........I just would like to know why....kind of like they have to prove these things in a courtroom

driver100

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office.


Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry.

Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support.

While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job.
What do you think another service department will tell you?

I have to agree, no one is going to give advice on this from a liability perspective. As I've said before on a car this technically complex the potential downside really outweighs any savings.

I think driver100 (grandpa) should quietly shop for a suitable replacement and present it as a gift to the grandson. For under $5,000 he can probably pick up a safe more reliable transportation type car that will let him sleep nights. If he thinks it will cause a family rift for circumventing dad, he can offer to trade "his" car for the X3.

Just make sure the grandson promises not to share it with the dreaded SIL.

Here's one:



https://toronto.craigslist.ca/tor/ctd/d/2004-honda-pilotex-4wd-8/6326240356.html

Although I think the dealer left a 1 off the front and a zero off the back on the milage. CL ads in Canada list km instead of miles, right?

Yes oldfarmer, those are kms....so about $3000 miles for $4900....nice find.

Knowing the SIL....if it ever broke down or caused trouble he would blame it on me.

There was a warning in this weekends newspaper about flood cars that come up this way, they said to look in all the little holes and crannies to see if there is rust, mud, or fish. There is something wrong with a car that sells for $4900 with 3000 miles on it.

driver100

Marcothecarguy1986 said:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P6KSfG-HE3o

They stole the Lexus front end!

I was at a red light and this Lexus was opposite us. My wife rarely comments on car designs, but she said, what an ugly grill!

She believes it is supposed to be some kind of macho look.

roadburner

driver100 said:

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office.


Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry.

Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support.

While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job.
What do you think another service department will tell you?

I would like to know the exact reason it is or could be unsafe. Although, I agree, it sounds like a crude way to fix a car...no one has said, exactly why it shouldn't be done. We can imagine what may go wrong...but, do we know? Sure it is a hack job, but, maybe it could actually be done without affecting safety.

You have said it is a "hack job", your SA says it is a "hack job", I tend to think it is a "hack job",........I just would like to know why....kind of like they have to prove these things in a courtroom

1. The transfer case is designed to work with AWD, remove the front driveshaft and it's 2WD;
2. Ditto for the DSC(stability control and torque vectoring). Those electronics function based on signals going to and from the transfer case. The electronics will "assume" in some cases that the torque is being apportioned to the front diff when in fact it isn't.

A guy on bimmerfest.com has been diddling around with a 2WD conversion on a 5er wagon. One guy who knows what is involved posted the following:

VO/FA string is only stored in LMA and CAS.

You need to default every module (including LMA and CAS) after changing VO/FA (and writting VO/FA to LMA/CAS) so those modules update the coding based on the new VO/FA. VO/FA does not need to be written to other modules

Pushing the job Code Car in NCS expert often fails in my experience. Especially on modules that not often coded, such as DSC, EGS, or MOST components. Just run SG_codeiren with Expert Profile (or any profile with manipulation turned off) on the affected modules.

For that VO/FA code, I would default CAS, LMA, DSC, EGS, DME, and KOMBI.

Disconnect the VSGS module under the car.

Also, you installed a USED DSC module? VIN must to coded to that module via WinKFP. You will need to flash the module to write your current VIN to it. Then it will be recognized. I recommend you use an ICOM head. DCAN is a more slow interface and the risks of bricking modules increases with the use of a DCAN cable.

If your battery is weak, replace it. Low voltage while flashing will brick the DSC module, unlike coding. With coding, you can always default the module. When flashing fails, you need to force flash the module via NFS. If that does not work, a new module is needed.

You need a POWER SUPPLY, not a battery TENDER to keep voltage stable. You also need a continuous supply, not intermittent and it needs to supply at least 50Amps.

Do you think the doofus your dangerously cheap SIL hired can even spell "DSC"- much less know or have the correct equipment to do what was suggested above?

oldfarmer50

roadburner said:

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

If I win one of the 8-9 cars in the BMW CCA raffle I'm either ordering:
1. A M240i automatic in Sunset Orange with Cognac leather. Every option box checked with sunroof delete and M Performance Locking Differential, or...
2. A M2 manual in Long Beach Blue with only the Executive Package or...
3.A M2 Competition Package in Sunset Orange(I'd have to wait about 8 months...)
That is all...

I'd have to see this orange color. Sounds not classy enough for a BMW.

Oh that's nice. I'd call that copper not orange. Whatever, it's classy.

oldfarmer50

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office.


Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry.

Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support.

While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job.
What do you think another service department will tell you?

I have to agree, no one is going to give advice on this from a liability perspective. As I've said before on a car this technically complex the potential downside really outweighs any savings.

I think driver100 (grandpa) should quietly shop for a suitable replacement and present it as a gift to the grandson. For under $5,000 he can probably pick up a safe more reliable transportation type car that will let him sleep nights. If he thinks it will cause a family rift for circumventing dad, he can offer to trade "his" car for the X3.

Just make sure the grandson promises not to share it with the dreaded SIL.

Here's one:



https://toronto.craigslist.ca/tor/ctd/d/2004-honda-pilotex-4wd-8/6326240356.html

Although I think the dealer left a 1 off the front and a zero off the back on the milage. CL ads in Canada list km instead of miles, right?

Yes oldfarmer, those are kms....so about $3000 miles for $4900....nice find.

Knowing the SIL....if it ever broke down or caused trouble he would blame it on me.

There was a warning in this weekends newspaper about flood cars that come up this way, they said to look in all the little holes and crannies to see if there is rust, mud, or fish. There is something wrong with a car that sells for $4900 with 3000 miles on it.

As I said I think he missed some numbers. I assume milage is 149,000km or about 93k miles. A pittance for a Honda. Just think, for a measly 5 grand you could save your grandson a lot of grief. How many miles on the X3? If it's as beat up as it seems you could give it a fairwell cruise to the crusher.

I doubt US flood cars could make it into Canada. All the import regs alone would tend to frustrate the crooks. At least for $5k cars. Just run the VIN through the US check system and do due diligence as usual.

If I had the money I'd be buying cars for every niece and nephew I could find.

stickguy

kind of like this one I saw in the showroom last week. striking in person. and the listing is wrong. That is an actual manual trans 3 pedal car, just like all M models should be.

https://www.bmwofturnersville.com/detail-2018-bmw-m3-sedan_4dr_sdn-new-16862893.html

driver100

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office.


Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry.

Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support.

While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job.
What do you think another service department will tell you?

I would like to know the exact reason it is or could be unsafe. Although, I agree, it sounds like a crude way to fix a car...no one has said, exactly why it shouldn't be done. We can imagine what may go wrong...but, do we know? Sure it is a hack job, but, maybe it could actually be done without affecting safety.

You have said it is a "hack job", your SA says it is a "hack job", I tend to think it is a "hack job",........I just would like to know why....kind of like they have to prove these things in a courtroom

1. The transfer case is designed to work with AWD, remove the front driveshaft and it's 2WD;
2. Ditto for the DSC(stability control and torque vectoring). Those electronics function based on signals going to and from the transfer case. The electronics will "assume" in some cases that the torque is being apportioned to the front diff when in fact it isn't.

A guy on bimmerfest.com has been diddling around with a 2WD conversion on a 5er wagon. One guy who knows what is involved posted the following:

VO/FA string is only stored in LMA and CAS.

You need to default every module (including LMA and CAS) after changing VO/FA (and writting VO/FA to LMA/CAS) so those modules update the coding based on the new VO/FA. VO/FA does not need to be written to other modules

Pushing the job Code Car in NCS expert often fails in my experience. Especially on modules that not often coded, such as DSC, EGS, or MOST components. Just run SG_codeiren with Expert Profile (or any profile with manipulation turned off) on the affected modules.

For that VO/FA code, I would default CAS, LMA, DSC, EGS, DME, and KOMBI.

Disconnect the VSGS module under the car.

Also, you installed a USED DSC module? VIN must to coded to that module via WinKFP. You will need to flash the module to write your current VIN to it. Then it will be recognized. I recommend you use an ICOM head. DCAN is a more slow interface and the risks of bricking modules increases with the use of a DCAN cable.

If your battery is weak, replace it. Low voltage while flashing will brick the DSC module, unlike coding. With coding, you can always default the module. When flashing fails, you need to force flash the module via NFS. If that does not work, a new module is needed.

You need a POWER SUPPLY, not a battery TENDER to keep voltage stable. You also need a continuous supply, not intermittent and it needs to supply at least 50Amps.

Do you think the doofus your dangerously cheap SIL hired can even spell "DSC"- much less know or have the correct equipment to do what was suggested above?

WOW....sounds like you better know what you are doing....and even then, sounds like you are asking for trouble. After reading that;
1) I am surprised an amateur could manage that, and
2) that he would be stupid enough to try it, especially because of liability issues.
I do know the SIL drove the car to our grandchild (his daughter) and that was almost a 300 mile drive.

I don't know what has happened since then.
Thanks for the information....that is even worse than I imagined.

driver100

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

If I win one of the 8-9 cars in the BMW CCA raffle I'm either ordering:
1. A M240i automatic in Sunset Orange with Cognac leather. Every option box checked with sunroof delete and M Performance Locking Differential, or...
2. A M2 manual in Long Beach Blue with only the Executive Package or...
3.A M2 Competition Package in Sunset Orange(I'd have to wait about 8 months...)
That is all...

I'd have to see this orange color. Sounds not classy enough for a BMW.

Oh that's nice. I'd call that copper not orange. Whatever, it's classy.

It is hard to say how that color looks in real life....I have seen some similar and it looks like tomato soup orange or red. I like that color if that's what it is.

driver100

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office.


Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry.

Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support.

While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job.
What do you think another service department will tell you?

I have to agree, no one is going to give advice on this from a liability perspective. As I've said before on a car this technically complex the potential downside really outweighs any savings.

I think driver100 (grandpa) should quietly shop for a suitable replacement and present it as a gift to the grandson. For under $5,000 he can probably pick up a safe more reliable transportation type car that will let him sleep nights. If he thinks it will cause a family rift for circumventing dad, he can offer to trade "his" car for the X3.

Just make sure the grandson promises not to share it with the dreaded SIL.

Here's one:



https://toronto.craigslist.ca/tor/ctd/d/2004-honda-pilotex-4wd-8/6326240356.html

Although I think the dealer left a 1 off the front and a zero off the back on the milage. CL ads in Canada list km instead of miles, right?

Yes oldfarmer, those are kms....so about $3000 miles for $4900....nice find.

Knowing the SIL....if it ever broke down or caused trouble he would blame it on me.

There was a warning in this weekends newspaper about flood cars that come up this way, they said to look in all the little holes and crannies to see if there is rust, mud, or fish. There is something wrong with a car that sells for $4900 with 3000 miles on it.

As I said I think he missed some numbers. I assume milage is 149,000km or about 93k miles. A pittance for a Honda. Just think, for a measly 5 grand you could save your grandson a lot of grief. How many miles on the X3? If it's as beat up as it seems you could give it a fairwell cruise to the crusher.

I doubt US flood cars could make it into Canada. All the import regs alone would tend to frustrate the crooks. At least for $5k cars. Just run the VIN through the US check system and do due diligence as usual.

If I had the money I'd be buying cars for every niece and nephew I could find.

How could he be that far out on mileage? I could see an extra 0 but a 1 as well would be hard to do with a straight face.

The article did say flood cars always show up in Canada. I don't know how they do it, but, where there is a will there is a way. I don't know if I would buy a car from a private seller or a dodgy looking indie dealer. I have done it in my early days, but, I have learned a lot since those days.

I know how the SIL thinks. He probably converted the car to 2WD so I would worry about it and offer to buy the granddaughter a good used car. I am not going to fall for his plan. When he comes for Thanksgiving he will probably cry and whine and say he is sorry he has to give his daughter an unsafe car, but, it is all my fault because I won't buy them a newer car :@ That is what he does!!!!!!

oldfarmer50

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office.


Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry.

Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support.

While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job.
What do you think another service department will tell you?

I have to agree, no one is going to give advice on this from a liability perspective. As I've said before on a car this technically complex the potential downside really outweighs any savings.

I think driver100 (grandpa) should quietly shop for a suitable replacement and present it as a gift to the grandson. For under $5,000 he can probably pick up a safe more reliable transportation type car that will let him sleep nights. If he thinks it will cause a family rift for circumventing dad, he can offer to trade "his" car for the X3.

Just make sure the grandson promises not to share it with the dreaded SIL.

Here's one:



https://toronto.craigslist.ca/tor/ctd/d/2004-honda-pilotex-4wd-8/6326240356.html

Although I think the dealer left a 1 off the front and a zero off the back on the milage. CL ads in Canada list km instead of miles, right?

Yes oldfarmer, those are kms....so about $3000 miles for $4900....nice find.

Knowing the SIL....if it ever broke down or caused trouble he would blame it on me.

There was a warning in this weekends newspaper about flood cars that come up this way, they said to look in all the little holes and crannies to see if there is rust, mud, or fish. There is something wrong with a car that sells for $4900 with 3000 miles on it.

As I said I think he missed some numbers. I assume milage is 149,000km or about 93k miles. A pittance for a Honda. Just think, for a measly 5 grand you could save your grandson a lot of grief. How many miles on the X3? If it's as beat up as it seems you could give it a fairwell cruise to the crusher.

I doubt US flood cars could make it into Canada. All the import regs alone would tend to frustrate the crooks. At least for $5k cars. Just run the VIN through the US check system and do due diligence as usual.

If I had the money I'd be buying cars for every niece and nephew I could find.

How could he be that far out on mileage? I could see an extra 0 but a 1 as well would be hard to do with a straight face.

The article did say flood cars always show up in Canada. I don't know how they do it, but, where there is a will there is a way. I don't know if I would buy a car from a private seller or a dodgy looking indie dealer. I have done it in my early days, but, I have learned a lot since those days.

I know how the SIL thinks. He probably converted the car to 2WD so I would worry about it and offer to buy the granddaughter a good used car. I am not going to fall for his plan. When he comes for Thanksgiving he will probably cry and whine and say he is sorry he has to give his daughter an unsafe car, but, it is all my fault because I won't buy them a newer car :@ That is what he does!!!!!!

Wow, your SIL has really gotten into your head. Don't worry about him, just ask yourself how you feel about your grand daughter. Does she deserve a different car?

What does your daughter say about all this?

tjc78

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office. Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry. Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support. While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause. I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job. What do you think another service department will tell you?

I would like to know the exact reason it is or could be unsafe. Although, I agree, it sounds like a crude way to fix a car...no one has said, exactly why it shouldn't be done. We can imagine what may go wrong...but, do we know? Sure it is a hack job, but, maybe it could actually be done without affecting safety. You have said it is a "hack job", your SA says it is a "hack job", I tend to think it is a "hack job",........I just would like to know why....kind of like they have to prove these things in a courtroom

1. The transfer case is designed to work with AWD, remove the front driveshaft and it's 2WD; 2. Ditto for the DSC(stability control and torque vectoring). Those electronics function based on signals going to and from the transfer case. The electronics will "assume" in some cases that the torque is being apportioned to the front diff when in fact it isn't. A guy on bimmerfest.com has been diddling around with a 2WD conversion on a 5er wagon. One guy who knows what is involved posted the following: VO/FA string is only stored in LMA and CAS. You need to default every module (including LMA and CAS) after changing VO/FA (and writting VO/FA to LMA/CAS) so those modules update the coding based on the new VO/FA. VO/FA does not need to be written to other modules Pushing the job Code Car in NCS expert often fails in my experience. Especially on modules that not often coded, such as DSC, EGS, or MOST components. Just run SG_codeiren with Expert Profile (or any profile with manipulation turned off) on the affected modules. For that VO/FA code, I would default CAS, LMA, DSC, EGS, DME, and KOMBI. Disconnect the VSGS module under the car. Also, you installed a USED DSC module? VIN must to coded to that module via WinKFP. You will need to flash the module to write your current VIN to it. Then it will be recognized. I recommend you use an ICOM head. DCAN is a more slow interface and the risks of bricking modules increases with the use of a DCAN cable. If your battery is weak, replace it. Low voltage while flashing will brick the DSC module, unlike coding. With coding, you can always default the module. When flashing fails, you need to force flash the module via NFS. If that does not work, a new module is needed. You need a POWER SUPPLY, not a battery TENDER to keep voltage stable. You also need a continuous supply, not intermittent and it needs to supply at least 50Amps. Do you think the doofus your dangerously cheap SIL hired can even spell "DSC"- much less know or have the correct equipment to do what was suggested above?

WOW....sounds like you better know what you are doing....and even then, sounds like you are asking for trouble. After reading that; 1) I am surprised an amateur could manage that, and 2) that he would be stupid enough to try it, especially because of liability issues. I do know the SIL drove the car to our grandchild (his daughter) and that was almost a 300 mile drive. I don't know what has happened since then. Thanks for the information....that is even worse than I imagined.

IMO I think you are worrying about this too much.  As long as the rest of the car is in safe condition. (Brakes, tires, suspension) I really think it is still overall safe to drive.   It will no longer have the added capabilities of AWD and *perhaps* some of the active safety features may not be 100%.  I can’t see anything that would cause the car to spin out of control or handle in an adverse way for the majority of driving conditions.   I’m in no way saying it was the right thing to do, however, I’m sure there are cars riding on bald tires and deteriorating suspension that are much more a liability.  

driver100

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office.


Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry.

Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support.

While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job.
What do you think another service department will tell you?

I have to agree, no one is going to give advice on this from a liability perspective. As I've said before on a car this technically complex the potential downside really outweighs any savings.

I think driver100 (grandpa) should quietly shop for a suitable replacement and present it as a gift to the grandson. For under $5,000 he can probably pick up a safe more reliable transportation type car that will let him sleep nights. If he thinks it will cause a family rift for circumventing dad, he can offer to trade "his" car for the X3.

Just make sure the grandson promises not to share it with the dreaded SIL.

Here's one:



https://toronto.craigslist.ca/tor/ctd/d/2004-honda-pilotex-4wd-8/6326240356.html

Although I think the dealer left a 1 off the front and a zero off the back on the milage. CL ads in Canada list km instead of miles, right?

Yes oldfarmer, those are kms....so about $3000 miles for $4900....nice find.

Knowing the SIL....if it ever broke down or caused trouble he would blame it on me.

There was a warning in this weekends newspaper about flood cars that come up this way, they said to look in all the little holes and crannies to see if there is rust, mud, or fish. There is something wrong with a car that sells for $4900 with 3000 miles on it.

As I said I think he missed some numbers. I assume milage is 149,000km or about 93k miles. A pittance for a Honda. Just think, for a measly 5 grand you could save your grandson a lot of grief. How many miles on the X3? If it's as beat up as it seems you could give it a fairwell cruise to the crusher.

I doubt US flood cars could make it into Canada. All the import regs alone would tend to frustrate the crooks. At least for $5k cars. Just run the VIN through the US check system and do due diligence as usual.

If I had the money I'd be buying cars for every niece and nephew I could find.

How could he be that far out on mileage? I could see an extra 0 but a 1 as well would be hard to do with a straight face.

The article did say flood cars always show up in Canada. I don't know how they do it, but, where there is a will there is a way. I don't know if I would buy a car from a private seller or a dodgy looking indie dealer. I have done it in my early days, but, I have learned a lot since those days.

I know how the SIL thinks. He probably converted the car to 2WD so I would worry about it and offer to buy the granddaughter a good used car. I am not going to fall for his plan. When he comes for Thanksgiving he will probably cry and whine and say he is sorry he has to give his daughter an unsafe car, but, it is all my fault because I won't buy them a newer car :@ That is what he does!!!!!!

Wow, your SIL has really gotten into your head. Don't worry about him, just ask yourself how you feel about your grand daughter. Does she deserve a different car?

What does your daughter say about all this?

This is an elephant in the room situation.
Daughter...who is a doctor.......has to support husband to maintain marriage.
I have to be careful what I say.
I will try to talk about it when they come for dinner.....next week

It is a bit complicated family dynamics situation unfortunately.

driver100

tjc78 said:

driver100 said:

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office.


Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry.

Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support.

While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job.
What do you think another service department will tell you?

I would like to know the exact reason it is or could be unsafe. Although, I agree, it sounds like a crude way to fix a car...no one has said, exactly why it shouldn't be done. We can imagine what may go wrong...but, do we know? Sure it is a hack job, but, maybe it could actually be done without affecting safety.

You have said it is a "hack job", your SA says it is a "hack job", I tend to think it is a "hack job",........I just would like to know why....kind of like they have to prove these things in a courtroom

1. The transfer case is designed to work with AWD, remove the front driveshaft and it's 2WD;
2. Ditto for the DSC(stability control and torque vectoring). Those electronics function based on signals going to and from the transfer case. The electronics will "assume" in some cases that the torque is being apportioned to the front diff when in fact it isn't.

A guy on bimmerfest.com has been diddling around with a 2WD conversion on a 5er wagon. One guy who knows what is involved posted the following:

VO/FA string is only stored in LMA and CAS.

You need to default every module (including LMA and CAS) after changing VO/FA (and writting VO/FA to LMA/CAS) so those modules update the coding based on the new VO/FA. VO/FA does not need to be written to other modules

Pushing the job Code Car in NCS expert often fails in my experience. Especially on modules that not often coded, such as DSC, EGS, or MOST components. Just run SG_codeiren with Expert Profile (or any profile with manipulation turned off) on the affected modules.

For that VO/FA code, I would default CAS, LMA, DSC, EGS, DME, and KOMBI.

Disconnect the VSGS module under the car.

Also, you installed a USED DSC module? VIN must to coded to that module via WinKFP. You will need to flash the module to write your current VIN to it. Then it will be recognized. I recommend you use an ICOM head. DCAN is a more slow interface and the risks of bricking modules increases with the use of a DCAN cable.

If your battery is weak, replace it. Low voltage while flashing will brick the DSC module, unlike coding. With coding, you can always default the module. When flashing fails, you need to force flash the module via NFS. If that does not work, a new module is needed.

You need a POWER SUPPLY, not a battery TENDER to keep voltage stable. You also need a continuous supply, not intermittent and it needs to supply at least 50Amps.

Do you think the doofus your dangerously cheap SIL hired can even spell "DSC"- much less know or have the correct equipment to do what was suggested above?

WOW....sounds like you better know what you are doing....and even then, sounds like you are asking for trouble. After reading that;
1) I am surprised an amateur could manage that, and
2) that he would be stupid enough to try it, especially because of liability issues.
I do know the SIL drove the car to our grandchild (his daughter) and that was almost a 300 mile drive.

I don't know what has happened since then.
Thanks for the information....that is even worse than I imagined.

IMO I think you are worrying about this too much.  As long as the rest of the car is in safe condition. (Brakes, tires, suspension) I really think it is still overall safe to drive.   It will no longer have the added capabilities of AWD and *perhaps* some of the active safety features may not be 100%.  I can’t see anything that would cause the car to spin out of control or handle in an adverse way for the majority of driving conditions.   I’m in no way saying it was the right thing to do, however, I’m sure there are cars riding on bald tires and deteriorating suspension that are much more a liability.  

Very good point. I think I sense that too. The car will only be used in the city and not in bad weather. Maybe the hack-mechanic told him that. I think it yours is a gutsy opinion and does make sense.........I like the saying "Nothing is ever as bad as it seems, and nothing is ever as good as it seems".

pensfan83

stickguy said:

kind of like this one I saw in the showroom last week. striking in person. and the listing is wrong. That is an actual manual trans 3 pedal car, just like all M models should be.

https://www.bmwofturnersville.com/detail-2018-bmw-m3-sedan_4dr_sdn-new-16862893.html

I can't remember the last time I saw a true manual M3, on a dealer website or in the wild. I like the color too.

venture

driver100 said:

Marcothecarguy1986 said:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P6KSfG-HE3o

They stole the Lexus front end!

I was at a red light and this Lexus was opposite us. My wife rarely comments on car designs, but she said, what an ugly grill!

She believes it is supposed to be some kind of macho look.

My wife doesn't know one car from another and really doesn't care, but she said the same thing. It surprised me that she noticed.

imidazol97

roadburner said:

A guy on bimmerfest.com has been diddling around with a 2WD conversion on a 5er wagon. One guy who knows what is involved posted the following:

VO/FA string is only stored in LMA and CAS.

You need to default every module (including LMA and CAS) after changing VO/FA (and writting VO/FA to LMA/CAS) so those modules update the coding based on the new VO/FA. VO/FA does not need to be written to other modules

Pushing the job Code Car in NCS expert often fails in my experience. Especially on modules that not often coded, such as DSC, EGS, or MOST components. Just run SG_codeiren with Expert Profile (or any profile with manipulation turned off) on the affected modules.

For that VO/FA code, I would default CAS, LMA, DSC, EGS, DME, and KOMBI.

Disconnect the VSGS module under the car.

Also, you installed a USED DSC module? VIN must to coded to that module via WinKFP. You will need to flash the module to write your current VIN to it. Then it will be recognized. I recommend you use an ICOM head. DCAN is a more slow interface and the risks of bricking modules increases with the use of a DCAN cable.

If your battery is weak, replace it. Low voltage while flashing will brick the DSC module, unlike coding. With coding, you can always default the module. When flashing fails, you need to force flash the module via NFS. If that does not work, a new module is needed.

You need a POWER SUPPLY, not a battery TENDER to keep voltage stable. You also need a continuous supply, not intermittent and it needs to supply at least 50Amps.

Do you think the doofus your dangerously cheap SIL hired can even spell "DSC"- much less know or have the correct equipment to do what was suggested above?

Interesting post. Thanks.

iluvmysephia1

2017 Subaru Impreza hatch and sedan

These new Subaru Impreza's are really quite...impressive. I know, but I just couldn't resist. They have a curb weight of 2,964 lbs. which seems a titch heavy but really isn't. When you consider what's riding on your tires. For a longer, wider Subaru Impreza, you're gonna want some weight to hold the car on the road when you lean back down in and straighten your Impreza out for the long haul on the straightaways ahead.

Get out there and drive. I saw a black sedan and couldn't identify it. That's what got me looking in to what I saw that night. It was dark out and I couldn't make out the lines of the automobile. I thought Subaru because of it's body brand identity. It showed even in the side view at night. It was either a 2017 or 2018 Subaru Impreza. The underpinnings of the Impreza will now in the future be the underpinnings of each and every Subaru model. Including the CrossTrek.

Every model of Impreza gets a rear view camera and Android Auto/Apple CarPlay, which is a great thing to have. And symmetrical AWD, of course. After all, it's a Subaru. Get out and drive. All 2017 and/on Subaru Impreza models are assembled in Lafayette, Indiana. It's not a conundrum, it's a positive that they're being assembled in Indiana. Oh, no. I just got a flash thought of Bobby Knight. Uggghhhhhhhhh. That bright red sweatshirt and strong work ethic. Eeek.

2017 Subaru Impreza engine specs

2.0L 1995cc 4 cylinder, engine code FB20
Horizontally Opposed Boxer design
DOHC with timing chain (not a belt)
16 valve- dual active valve control system (DAVCS)
new for 2017 Sequential direct fuel injection
Dual Active Value Control System DAVCS
Bore x Stroke 3.31" x 3.54" (84mmx90mm)
new for 2017 Compression 12.5:1
Composite intake manifold
new for 2017 Composite valve covers
new for 2017 Active grill shutter (Sport and Limited models only)
Redline- 6600 RPM

cdnpinhead

Bear in mind that you can't even change a battery in a BMW these days without a trip to the dealer to reprogram the "systems" to allow for a new battery. I would never own a "modern" BMW for this and several other reasons.

fintail

I look at it as pseudo-aggressive - gotta make our fancy 6 slice toaster look dynamic and bold. Not so macho in my eyes, if there's anything a Lexus RX doesn't use for fuel, it is testosterone

driver100 said:

She believes it is supposed to be some kind of macho look.

imidazol97

cdnpinhead said:

Bear in mind that you can't even change a battery in a BMW these days without a trip to the dealer to reprogram the "systems" to allow for a new battery. I would never own a "modern" BMW for this and several other reasons.

It's like the software in your computer from Microsoft--you're just renting it even though you think you own it.

driver100

imidazol97 said:

roadburner said:

A guy on bimmerfest.com has been diddling around with a 2WD conversion on a 5er wagon. One guy who knows what is involved posted the following:

VO/FA string is only stored in LMA and CAS.

You need to default every module (including LMA and CAS) after changing VO/FA (and writting VO/FA to LMA/CAS) so those modules update the coding based on the new VO/FA. VO/FA does not need to be written to other modules

Pushing the job Code Car in NCS expert often fails in my experience. Especially on modules that not often coded, such as DSC, EGS, or MOST components. Just run SG_codeiren with Expert Profile (or any profile with manipulation turned off) on the affected modules.

For that VO/FA code, I would default CAS, LMA, DSC, EGS, DME, and KOMBI.

Disconnect the VSGS module under the car.

Also, you installed a USED DSC module? VIN must to coded to that module via WinKFP. You will need to flash the module to write your current VIN to it. Then it will be recognized. I recommend you use an ICOM head. DCAN is a more slow interface and the risks of bricking modules increases with the use of a DCAN cable.

If your battery is weak, replace it. Low voltage while flashing will brick the DSC module, unlike coding. With coding, you can always default the module. When flashing fails, you need to force flash the module via NFS. If that does not work, a new module is needed.

You need a POWER SUPPLY, not a battery TENDER to keep voltage stable. You also need a continuous supply, not intermittent and it needs to supply at least 50Amps.

Do you think the doofus your dangerously cheap SIL hired can even spell "DSC"- much less know or have the correct equipment to do what was suggested above?

Interesting post. Thanks.

In reply to Roadrunner who said:
roadburner said:

A guy on bimmerfest.com has been diddling around with a 2WD conversion on a 5er wagon. One guy who knows what is involved posted the following:

VO/FA string is only stored in LMA and CAS.

You need to default every module (including LMA and CAS) after changing VO/FA (and writting VO/FA to LMA/CAS) so those modules update the coding based on the new VO/FA. VO/FA does not need to be written to other modules

Pushing the job Code Car in NCS expert often fails in my experience. Especially on modules that not often coded, such as DSC, EGS, or MOST components. Just run SG_codeiren with Expert Profile (or any profile with manipulation turned off) on the affected modules.

For that VO/FA code, I would default CAS, LMA, DSC, EGS, DME, and KOMBI.

Disconnect the VSGS module under the car.

Also, you installed a USED DSC module? VIN must to coded to that module via WinKFP. You will need to flash the module to write your current VIN to it. Then it will be recognized. I recommend you use an ICOM head. DCAN is a more slow interface and the risks of bricking modules increases with the use of a DCAN cable.....etc

.

I am just wondering.....the original cost to repair the car was $8000 from what I understand (that is what granddaughter said). The hack fixed it for a few $100. What I am wondering now is.....if you bought the car having AWD instead of 2WD is not an $8000 option, so why does it cost $8000 to fix it? The other thing I am wondering is.............how could the hack figure out all those codes, hook up power source, turn off the proper sensors, and not know what he was doing?

I wouldn't alter the car myself, even the possibility it could be unsafe would lead me to scrap it, I just don't know if it is actually unsafe.

My thinking would be they paid about $30k for it, got 10 years of practically trouble free driving, probably put a total of close to 250k miles on it, so for $3000 a year they got their moneys worth out of it. And, if he traded it in a little earlier which he never does...he drives them into the ground until they aren't worth anything, he could have used the trade in money to buy something else........but, he doesn't think that way.

driver100

fintail said:

I look at it as pseudo-aggressive - gotta make our fancy 6 slice toaster look dynamic and bold. Not so macho in my eyes, if there's anything a Lexus RX doesn't use for fuel, it is testosterone

driver100 said:

She believes it is supposed to be some kind of macho look.

That was kind of my thinking too, because I actually see quite a few women driving them. I would say bold and unique.....all the companies are looking to making their front ends similar for all the models in their line-up. I don't mind the look too much, but, I like the last edition of the RX more....kind of bland but didn't rub people the wrong way.
New!

Previous:


Now that I posted them, I think the new one with the old front (with a bit of an update) would be good, and I am not a fan of the small rear quarter windows.

stickguy

Driver, keep in mind you don't actually know what the original problem was, and what the actual fix implemented was. Just speculation I think that they just took off a drive shaft?

fintail

Bold and fake-sporty appliance. Everyone today wants to be exciting and aggressive, even if they really aren't that exciting, and in reality are more passive-aggressive. An aspirational car for active Stepfords.

The new one, like many new generation Toyolex products, is really overstyled, to my eyes. I don't think these will age well design-wise, as time goes on - the Germans seem to be toning it down a bit already.

Outward visibility is probably iffy in both of them (of course, these are often driven by people who don't look before changing lanes anyway ) . I suspect the rear quarter window in the new one is even smaller - it is the faux floating C-pillar that is now the range among groupthinking copycat stylists.

driver100 said:

That was kind of my thinking too, because I actually see quite a few women driving them. I would say bold and unique.....all the companies are looking to making their front ends similar for all the models in their line-up. I don't mind the look too much, but, I like the last edition of the RX more....kind of bland but didn't rub people the wrong way.
Now that I posted them, I think the new one with the old front (with a bit of an update) would be good, and I am not a fan of the small rear quarter windows.

oldfarmer50

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

I got back my email from BMW head office.


Thank you for contacting BMW Canada. We appreciate your inquiry.

Please be advised that for all technical information and assistance, we recommend speaking with the service department of your local BMW retailer. We assure you that our BMW field representatives are trained at the highest level to properly diagnose and repair our vehicles. As such, they are in the best position to assist you with any technical support.

While our representatives are here to assist you, please be advised that we do not have technically trained representatives within our corporate office. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

I may write to the service department....but, I don't know if they would give out information for FREE. I imagine it will be, bring it in and we'll let you know.

As I mentioned previously, I talked with one of the best SAs at my dealership; he-like me-thought disabling the front diff was an incompetent hack job.
What do you think another service department will tell you?

I have to agree, no one is going to give advice on this from a liability perspective. As I've said before on a car this technically complex the potential downside really outweighs any savings.

I think driver100 (grandpa) should quietly shop for a suitable replacement and present it as a gift to the grandson. For under $5,000 he can probably pick up a safe more reliable transportation type car that will let him sleep nights. If he thinks it will cause a family rift for circumventing dad, he can offer to trade "his" car for the X3.

Just make sure the grandson promises not to share it with the dreaded SIL.

Here's one:



https://toronto.craigslist.ca/tor/ctd/d/2004-honda-pilotex-4wd-8/6326240356.html

Although I think the dealer left a 1 off the front and a zero off the back on the milage. CL ads in Canada list km instead of miles, right?

Yes oldfarmer, those are kms....so about $3000 miles for $4900....nice find.

Knowing the SIL....if it ever broke down or caused trouble he would blame it on me.

There was a warning in this weekends newspaper about flood cars that come up this way, they said to look in all the little holes and crannies to see if there is rust, mud, or fish. There is something wrong with a car that sells for $4900 with 3000 miles on it.

As I said I think he missed some numbers. I assume milage is 149,000km or about 93k miles. A pittance for a Honda. Just think, for a measly 5 grand you could save your grandson a lot of grief. How many miles on the X3? If it's as beat up as it seems you could give it a fairwell cruise to the crusher.

I doubt US flood cars could make it into Canada. All the import regs alone would tend to frustrate the crooks. At least for $5k cars. Just run the VIN through the US check system and do due diligence as usual.

If I had the money I'd be buying cars for every niece and nephew I could find.

How could he be that far out on mileage? I could see an extra 0 but a 1 as well would be hard to do with a straight face.

The article did say flood cars always show up in Canada. I don't know how they do it, but, where there is a will there is a way. I don't know if I would buy a car from a private seller or a dodgy looking indie dealer. I have done it in my early days, but, I have learned a lot since those days.

I know how the SIL thinks. He probably converted the car to 2WD so I would worry about it and offer to buy the granddaughter a good used car. I am not going to fall for his plan. When he comes for Thanksgiving he will probably cry and whine and say he is sorry he has to give his daughter an unsafe car, but, it is all my fault because I won't buy them a newer car :@ That is what he does!!!!!!

Wow, your SIL has really gotten into your head. Don't worry about him, just ask yourself how you feel about your grand daughter. Does she deserve a different car?

What does your daughter say about all this?

This is an elephant in the room situation.
Daughter...who is a doctor.......has to support husband to maintain marriage.
I have to be careful what I say.
I will try to talk about it when they come for dinner.....next week

It is a bit complicated family dynamics situation unfortunately.

SIL sounds like a real tool. My heart goes out to you and your family.

nyccarguy

@driver100 - your son in law is a complete moron. I don't think we need to discuss this matter any further. Beating the dead horse.

iluvmysephia1

Outward visibility is probably iffy in both of them (of course, these are often driven by people who don't look before changing lanes anyway ) . I suspect the rear quarter window in the new one is even smaller - it is the faux floating C-pillar that is now the range among groupthinking copycat stylists.

In contrast, outward visibility is pretty good on the '17 and/on Subaru Impreza. It has those little slant windows connecting up to the A-pillars, like my first car, the lovable 1965 Ford Mustang.

oldfarmer50

driver100 said:

imidazol97 said:

roadburner said:

A guy on bimmerfest.com has been diddling around with a 2WD conversion on a 5er wagon. One guy who knows what is involved posted the following:

VO/FA string is only stored in LMA and CAS.

You need to default every module (including LMA and CAS) after changing VO/FA (and writting VO/FA to LMA/CAS) so those modules update the coding based on the new VO/FA. VO/FA does not need to be written to other modules

Pushing the job Code Car in NCS expert often fails in my experience. Especially on modules that not often coded, such as DSC, EGS, or MOST components. Just run SG_codeiren with Expert Profile (or any profile with manipulation turned off) on the affected modules.

For that VO/FA code, I would default CAS, LMA, DSC, EGS, DME, and KOMBI.

Disconnect the VSGS module under the car.

Also, you installed a USED DSC module? VIN must to coded to that module via WinKFP. You will need to flash the module to write your current VIN to it. Then it will be recognized. I recommend you use an ICOM head. DCAN is a more slow interface and the risks of bricking modules increases with the use of a DCAN cable.

If your battery is weak, replace it. Low voltage while flashing will brick the DSC module, unlike coding. With coding, you can always default the module. When flashing fails, you need to force flash the module via NFS. If that does not work, a new module is needed.

You need a POWER SUPPLY, not a battery TENDER to keep voltage stable. You also need a continuous supply, not intermittent and it needs to supply at least 50Amps.

Do you think the doofus your dangerously cheap SIL hired can even spell "DSC"- much less know or have the correct equipment to do what was suggested above?

Interesting post. Thanks.

In reply to Roadrunner who said:
roadburner said:

A guy on bimmerfest.com has been diddling around with a 2WD conversion on a 5er wagon. One guy who knows what is involved posted the following:

VO/FA string is only stored in LMA and CAS.

You need to default every module (including LMA and CAS) after changing VO/FA (and writting VO/FA to LMA/CAS) so those modules update the coding based on the new VO/FA. VO/FA does not need to be written to other modules

Pushing the job Code Car in NCS expert often fails in my experience. Especially on modules that not often coded, such as DSC, EGS, or MOST components. Just run SG_codeiren with Expert Profile (or any profile with manipulation turned off) on the affected modules.

For that VO/FA code, I would default CAS, LMA, DSC, EGS, DME, and KOMBI.

Disconnect the VSGS module under the car.

Also, you installed a USED DSC module? VIN must to coded to that module via WinKFP. You will need to flash the module to write your current VIN to it. Then it will be recognized. I recommend you use an ICOM head. DCAN is a more slow interface and the risks of bricking modules increases with the use of a DCAN cable.....etc

.

I am just wondering.....the original cost to repair the car was $8000 from what I understand (that is what granddaughter said). The hack fixed it for a few $100. What I am wondering now is.....if you bought the car having AWD instead of 2WD is not an $8000 option, so why does it cost $8000 to fix it? The other thing I am wondering is.............how could the hack figure out all those codes, hook up power source, turn off the proper sensors, and not know what he was doing?

I wouldn't alter the car myself, even the possibility it could be unsafe would lead me to scrap it, I just don't know if it is actually unsafe.

My thinking would be they paid about $30k for it, got 10 years of practically trouble free driving, probably put a total of close to 250k miles on it, so for $3000 a year they got their moneys worth out of it. And, if he traded it in a little earlier which he never does...he drives them into the ground until they aren't worth anything, he could have used the trade in money to buy something else........but, he doesn't think that way.

Holy (non permissible content removed)! 250k miles plus what you put on it before you sold it to him? That bucket ain't even worth the few hundred hack job.

It's one thing to flog a hooptie to squeeze a few more miles if you are a broke dirt farmer like me but to ride a dying horse when you could afford a thoroughbred just seems foolish.

tjc78

nyccarguy said:

@driver100 - your son in law is a complete moron. I don't think we need to discuss this matter any further. Beating the dead horse.

Stop beating around the bush and say what you really feel!

stickguy

I could never deal with someone like that. A taker and narcissist type.

driver100

fintail said:

Bold and fake-sporty appliance. Everyone today wants to be exciting and aggressive, even if they really aren't that exciting, and in reality are more passive-aggressive. An aspirational car for active Stepfords.

The new one, like many new generation Toyolex products, is really overstyled, to my eyes. I don't think these will age well design-wise, as time goes on - the Germans seem to be toning it down a bit already.

Outward visibility is probably iffy in both of them (of course, these are often driven by people who don't look before changing lanes anyway ) . I suspect the rear quarter window in the new one is even smaller - it is the faux floating C-pillar that is now the range among groupthinking copycat stylists.

driver100 said:

That was kind of my thinking too, because I actually see quite a few women driving them. I would say bold and unique.....all the companies are looking to making their front ends similar for all the models in their line-up. I don't mind the look too much, but, I like the last edition of the RX more....kind of bland but didn't rub people the wrong way.
Now that I posted them, I think the new one with the old front (with a bit of an update) would be good, and I am not a fan of the small rear quarter windows.

Not to overgeneralize, but my impressions are that the Japanese go over the top a bit with the techno look. Probably does appeal to young people and computer people.
The Koreans are similar, but bring it down a notch.
American cars are made to look solid and fast.....sometimes aggressive especially in the grill area.
European usually keeps some of the old world flavor....simple lines, usually carried over from the past.

Very general and only my impressions.

stickguy

It does seem to be a Japanese thing. Anime, Pokémon, all that stuff fits the same theme. Sometimes they just seem to go a bit too far for some tastes. I happen to prefer more simple, classic lines that will age well, like a Passat or 3 series.

driver100

nyccarguy said:

@driver100 - your son in law is a complete moron. I don't think we need to discuss this matter any further. Beating the dead horse.

Stick and oldfarmer, I appreciate your comments. I will bring you up to date on what I decided to do, and then won't mention it again unless something actually happens.

Both sides of the question seem reasonable to believe, either you can't convert the car 100% safely, or, possibly removing the driveshaft doesn't really matter....I don't think we have a conclusive answer - though some excellent theories!.
I said to my wife, I have to clear my conscience - I don't really know if the car is safe as it is or not, but, if there is any question I wouldn't allow anyone to drive it. She will be visiting our daughter and will tell her my thoughts privately without the SIL around. When our daughter buys a car her main concern is safety....she was in one fairly bad accident once. I doubt if she has any idea whether the fix is questionable or not. She is a smart lady, but, naive especially where her husband is concerned.

I am OK with no more comments unless we learn something new.

driver100

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

imidazol97 said:

roadburner said:

A guy on bimmerfest.com has been diddling around with a 2WD conversion on a 5er wagon. One guy who knows what is involved posted the following:

VO/FA string is only stored in LMA and CAS.

You need to default every module (including LMA and CAS) after changing VO/FA (and writting VO/FA to LMA/CAS) so those modules update the coding based on the new VO/FA. VO/FA does not need to be written to other modules

Pushing the job Code Car in NCS expert often fails in my experience. Especially on modules that not often coded, such as DSC, EGS, or MOST components. Just run SG_codeiren with Expert Profile (or any profile with manipulation turned off) on the affected modules.

For that VO/FA code, I would default CAS, LMA, DSC, EGS, DME, and KOMBI.

Disconnect the VSGS module under the car.

Also, you installed a USED DSC module? VIN must to coded to that module via WinKFP. You will need to flash the module to write your current VIN to it. Then it will be recognized. I recommend you use an ICOM head. DCAN is a more slow interface and the risks of bricking modules increases with the use of a DCAN cable.

If your battery is weak, replace it. Low voltage while flashing will brick the DSC module, unlike coding. With coding, you can always default the module. When flashing fails, you need to force flash the module via NFS. If that does not work, a new module is needed.

You need a POWER SUPPLY, not a battery TENDER to keep voltage stable. You also need a continuous supply, not intermittent and it needs to supply at least 50Amps.

Do you think the doofus your dangerously cheap SIL hired can even spell "DSC"- much less know or have the correct equipment to do what was suggested above?

Interesting post. Thanks.

In reply to Roadrunner who said:
roadburner said:

A guy on bimmerfest.com has been diddling around with a 2WD conversion on a 5er wagon. One guy who knows what is involved posted the following:

VO/FA string is only stored in LMA and CAS.

You need to default every module (including LMA and CAS) after changing VO/FA (and writting VO/FA to LMA/CAS) so those modules update the coding based on the new VO/FA. VO/FA does not need to be written to other modules

Pushing the job Code Car in NCS expert often fails in my experience. Especially on modules that not often coded, such as DSC, EGS, or MOST components. Just run SG_codeiren with Expert Profile (or any profile with manipulation turned off) on the affected modules.

For that VO/FA code, I would default CAS, LMA, DSC, EGS, DME, and KOMBI.

Disconnect the VSGS module under the car.

Also, you installed a USED DSC module? VIN must to coded to that module via WinKFP. You will need to flash the module to write your current VIN to it. Then it will be recognized. I recommend you use an ICOM head. DCAN is a more slow interface and the risks of bricking modules increases with the use of a DCAN cable.....etc

.

I am just wondering.....the original cost to repair the car was $8000 from what I understand (that is what granddaughter said). The hack fixed it for a few $100. What I am wondering now is.....if you bought the car having AWD instead of 2WD is not an $8000 option, so why does it cost $8000 to fix it? The other thing I am wondering is.............how could the hack figure out all those codes, hook up power source, turn off the proper sensors, and not know what he was doing?

I wouldn't alter the car myself, even the possibility it could be unsafe would lead me to scrap it, I just don't know if it is actually unsafe.

My thinking would be they paid about $30k for it, got 10 years of practically trouble free driving, probably put a total of close to 250k miles on it, so for $3000 a year they got their moneys worth out of it. And, if he traded it in a little earlier which he never does...he drives them into the ground until they aren't worth anything, he could have used the trade in money to buy something else........but, he doesn't think that way.

Holy (non permissible content removed)! 250k miles plus what you put on it before you sold it to him? That bucket ain't even worth the few hundred hack job.

It's one thing to flog a hooptie to squeeze a few more miles if you are a broke dirt farmer like me but to ride a dying horse when you could afford a thoroughbred just seems foolish.

Sorry, I didn't make that clear, I am estimating, probably on the low side, the car would have a total of at least 250000 miles on it now.

suydam

driver100 said:

fintail said:

Bold and fake-sporty appliance. Everyone today wants to be exciting and aggressive, even if they really aren't that exciting, and in reality are more passive-aggressive. An aspirational car for active Stepfords.

The new one, like many new generation Toyolex products, is really overstyled, to my eyes. I don't think these will age well design-wise, as time goes on - the Germans seem to be toning it down a bit already.

Outward visibility is probably iffy in both of them (of course, these are often driven by people who don't look before changing lanes anyway ) . I suspect the rear quarter window in the new one is even smaller - it is the faux floating C-pillar that is now the range among groupthinking copycat stylists.

driver100 said:

That was kind of my thinking too, because I actually see quite a few women driving them. I would say bold and unique.....all the companies are looking to making their front ends similar for all the models in their line-up. I don't mind the look too much, but, I like the last edition of the RX more....kind of bland but didn't rub people the wrong way.
Now that I posted them, I think the new one with the old front (with a bit of an update) would be good, and I am not a fan of the small rear quarter windows.

Not to overgeneralize, but my impressions are that the Japanese go over the top a bit with the techno look. Probably does appeal to young people and computer people.
The Koreans are similar, but bring it down a notch.
American cars are made to look solid and fast.....sometimes aggressive especially in the grill area.
European usually keeps some of the old world flavor....simple lines, usually carried over from the past.

Very general and only my impressions.

That's a pretty huge overgeneralization. For decades now people have complained about the staid looks of such cars as the Camry, Corolla, Civic and Accord, while others like their "clean classic lines". And that's a generalization too. There's plenty of overwrought design to go around in all makes.

driver100

stickguy said:

I could never deal with someone like that. A taker and narcissist type.

You have very good judgement.
When he bought our business we probably made a late payment less than 6 times in 12 years....and if we did miss a payment it was because the supplier didn't get an invoice to us. All our other bills were paid when we received the goods, we wanted to be number one with our suppliers.

When the SIL took over, I doubt if he ever paid 6 invoices on time. He spends more time fending off people who want money than he does trying to grow the business. And when he does send a check he often puts the wrong year on it or "forgets" to put on his signature. He does this with people's pay checks as well!

Another favorite trick was to tell them he was sending them a check that week. Then the supplier would call me on Tuesday or Wednesday and say he promised to send a check last week and it didn't arrive. I found out later that he would go to the post office at 5 minutes to five, get a post mark for Friday, then put it in the mail to stretch the delivery time.

That is only a small fraction of the stupid stuff he would do, and I would have to stay up all night trying to figure out what his schemes were.

driver100

suydam said:

driver100 said:

fintail said:

Bold and fake-sporty appliance. Everyone today wants to be exciting and aggressive, even if they really aren't that exciting, and in reality are more passive-aggressive. An aspirational car for active Stepfords.

The new one, like many new generation Toyolex products, is really overstyled, to my eyes. I don't think these will age well design-wise, as time goes on - the Germans seem to be toning it down a bit already.

Outward visibility is probably iffy in both of them (of course, these are often driven by people who don't look before changing lanes anyway ) . I suspect the rear quarter window in the new one is even smaller - it is the faux floating C-pillar that is now the range among groupthinking copycat stylists.

driver100 said:

That was kind of my thinking too, because I actually see quite a few women driving them. I would say bold and unique.....all the companies are looking to making their front ends similar for all the models in their line-up. I don't mind the look too much, but, I like the last edition of the RX more....kind of bland but didn't rub people the wrong way.
Now that I posted them, I think the new one with the old front (with a bit of an update) would be good, and I am not a fan of the small rear quarter windows.

Not to overgeneralize, but my impressions are that the Japanese go over the top a bit with the techno look. Probably does appeal to young people and computer people.
The Koreans are similar, but bring it down a notch.
American cars are made to look solid and fast.....sometimes aggressive especially in the grill area.
European usually keeps some of the old world flavor....simple lines, usually carried over from the past.

Very general and only my impressions.

That's a pretty huge overgeneralization. For decades now people have complained about the staid looks of such cars as the Camry, Corolla, Civic and Accord, while others like their "clean classic lines". And that's a generalization too. There's plenty of overwrought design to go around in all makes.

Camry has changed a lot and so has the Civic....much edgier to capture the younger crowd. Generalization will always have exceptions.

oldfarmer50

suydam said:

driver100 said:

fintail said:

Bold and fake-sporty appliance. Everyone today wants to be exciting and aggressive, even if they really aren't that exciting, and in reality are more passive-aggressive. An aspirational car for active Stepfords.

The new one, like many new generation Toyolex products, is really overstyled, to my eyes. I don't think these will age well design-wise, as time goes on - the Germans seem to be toning it down a bit already.

Outward visibility is probably iffy in both of them (of course, these are often driven by people who don't look before changing lanes anyway ) . I suspect the rear quarter window in the new one is even smaller - it is the faux floating C-pillar that is now the range among groupthinking copycat stylists.

driver100 said:

That was kind of my thinking too, because I actually see quite a few women driving them. I would say bold and unique.....all the companies are looking to making their front ends similar for all the models in their line-up. I don't mind the look too much, but, I like the last edition of the RX more....kind of bland but didn't rub people the wrong way.
Now that I posted them, I think the new one with the old front (with a bit of an update) would be good, and I am not a fan of the small rear quarter windows.

Not to overgeneralize, but my impressions are that the Japanese go over the top a bit with the techno look. Probably does appeal to young people and computer people.
The Koreans are similar, but bring it down a notch.
American cars are made to look solid and fast.....sometimes aggressive especially in the grill area.
European usually keeps some of the old world flavor....simple lines, usually carried over from the past.

Very general and only my impressions.

That's a pretty huge overgeneralization. For decades now people have complained about the staid looks of such cars as the Camry, Corolla, Civic and Accord, while others like their "clean classic lines". And that's a generalization too. There's plenty of overwrought design to go around in all makes.

I saw a new Camry in the parking lot the other day, beautiful burgundy-red color. What struck me was the size. Thing was huge! Reminded me of an Impala. When did they get so big?

stickguy

And styling always has and always will be subjective. If you like it, all that matters.

Not sure if I'm unique with this, but exterior styling (from a form standpoint) is way down my priority list when picking a car.

nyccarguy

driver100 said:

stickguy said:

I could never deal with someone like that. A taker and narcissist type.

You have very good judgement.
When he bought our business we probably made a late payment less than 6 times in 12 years....and if we did miss a payment it was because the supplier didn't get an invoice to us. All our other bills were paid when we received the goods, we wanted to be number one with our suppliers.

When the SIL took over, I doubt if he ever paid 6 invoices on time. He spends more time fending off people who want money than he does trying to grow the business. And when he does send a check he often puts the wrong year on it or "forgets" to put on his signature. He does this with people's pay checks as well!

Another favorite trick was to tell them he was sending them a check that week. Then the supplier would call me on Tuesday or Wednesday and say he promised to send a check last week and it didn't arrive. I found out later that he would go to the post office at 5 minutes to five, get a post mark for Friday, then put it in the mail to stretch the delivery time.

That is only a small fraction of the stupid stuff he would do, and I would have to stay up all night trying to figure out what his schemes were.

That's the problem. He's in Canada and sending "checks." He should be paying his suppliers with "cheques."

I know you built your business from the ground up. You hustled, worked very hard, and made a very good living from it. Does it drive you absolutely insane what your Son In Law is doing to the business. Do you ever get calls or emails from suppliers saying: "Hey, what's going on here?"

driver100

nyccarguy said:

driver100 said:

stickguy said:

I could never deal with someone like that. A taker and narcissist type.

You have very good judgement.
When he bought our business we probably made a late payment less than 6 times in 12 years....and if we did miss a payment it was because the supplier didn't get an invoice to us. All our other bills were paid when we received the goods, we wanted to be number one with our suppliers.

When the SIL took over, I doubt if he ever paid 6 invoices on time. He spends more time fending off people who want money than he does trying to grow the business. And when he does send a check he often puts the wrong year on it or "forgets" to put on his signature. He does this with people's pay checks as well!

Another favorite trick was to tell them he was sending them a check that week. Then the supplier would call me on Tuesday or Wednesday and say he promised to send a check last week and it didn't arrive. I found out later that he would go to the post office at 5 minutes to five, get a post mark for Friday, then put it in the mail to stretch the delivery time.

That is only a small fraction of the stupid stuff he would do, and I would have to stay up all night trying to figure out what his schemes were.

That's the problem. He's in Canada and sending "checks." He should be paying his suppliers with "cheques."

I know you built your business from the ground up. You hustled, worked very hard, and made a very good living from it. Does it drive you absolutely insane what your Son In Law is doing to the business. Do you ever get calls or emails from suppliers saying: "Hey, what's going on here?"

Suppliers hated dealing with him....getting the runaround. Since I still had ultimate control I could get them their money - though I had to do it through the SIL. I was starting to appreciate retirement and let him have more leeway than I should have. He ran the business into the ground about a year ago. We got about 95% of what was owed to us and probably a 100% if you count my salary for about 4 years because I enjoyed the work at that time, just doing the buying which is the part I liked most.
If he hustled a bit and found new customers he could have had a nice business. I told him he had to replace 10% of his customers every year, because the current list of customers won't stay static. If he had done that for 5 years he would have been fine.
I am sad that about 10 people lost their jobs, and I am sad that a nice little business isn't around, but, we had a good run of about 20 years. I think SILs method is if he can take advantage of you he thinks he has won....but, business doesn't work that way anymore. I thought if we can do well for our customers then we will do well, and if I pay my suppliers immediately (not wait 30 or 60 days) they will sell me their best products - where else will they get cash immediately and be sure to be paid?
It was quite an experience.....the good thing is I now know what I am dealing with.

fintail

Some might not like the generalization, but overall, it isn't incorrect. Everyone has made overstyled cars in the past several years, but some of the most egregious seem to hail from certain areas. It might not be a new thing, either, Japanese cars of the 70s could be pretty wacky, too. Now they are seen as goofy and fun. I don't know if modern overstyling will be seen the same, probably because most of the 70s era Japanese cars didn't try to look bold and menacing.

The latest generation of MB has a lot less clutter, and it seems that brand reached peak styling volume (in the modern era) around 2010. As Europe is usually the design leader these days, we will see/hope this trickles down.

driver100 said:

Not to overgeneralize, but my impressions are that the Japanese go over the top a bit with the techno look. Probably does appeal to young people and computer people.
The Koreans are similar, but bring it down a notch.
American cars are made to look solid and fast.....sometimes aggressive especially in the grill area.
European usually keeps some of the old world flavor....simple lines, usually carried over from the past.

Very general and only my impressions.

ab348

driver100 said:

Another favorite trick was to tell them he was sending them a check that week. Then the supplier would call me on Tuesday or Wednesday and say he promised to send a check last week and it didn't arrive. I found out later that he would go to the post office at 5 minutes to five, get a post mark for Friday, then put it in the mail to stretch the delivery time.

My first job out of university in 1980 was with a dental equipment and supplies distributor run by a very driven owner/manager who was constantly overextended. I remember taking my paycheck to the bank one Friday after work (we got off at 5PM and back then the bank was only open until 6) and it bounced - something I only discovered because the company and I both used the same bank. I thought then and now that he was half-crazy with some of the things he did. One of his favorite tricks was telling a supplier who called wondering where their payment was that it had been mailed a week or even two weeks previously. Then he would get a cheque produced (which of course had not been sent in the first place), get an envelope addressed, and run it through the postage meter after he had gone in and changed the dates to roll it back to the stated day in order to cover his lie. He was just a miserable person and everybody who worked there had stories to tell about how terribly he treated them.

oldfarmer50

Looks like the end of late year new car bargains. Thanks in part to all the cars destroyed in hurricanes Sept. sales were up 8-15%. Can't imagine there is much inventory left even if stores are willing to deal.