Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

stickguy

I’ll throw a guess out there that it came with builder’s grade wire shelving and Mrs @stickguy wants something nicer.

correct. the upgrade option they presented was not what we wanted (and overpirced) so we just had them put in the standard wire stuff (wife hates that in a pantry). And are looking to replace it with something nicer and more substantial (wood probably). But for now, it functions. And once I pull it out for the new stuff to go in, I will repurpose the shelving into the laundry room and maybe garage and spare closets.

The mud room came with an alcove for a hall tree (shoe bench) but it is up to us to get something. So we are looking at some prebuilt options (surprisingly hard to find what we want) and also getting some quotes on having something built in.

stickguy

vanilla is a mess

jmonroe1

stickguy said:

vanilla is a mess

———————————————
Really? Did you just wake up?

jmonroe

roadburner

We are thinking about drawing SS when we each turn 68. My 6 years in the Commonwealth's Attorney's office will get me around $500/month...

oldfarmer50

tjc78 said:

No good deed goes unpunished!

We had a very expensive year at our shore condo. The decks needed redone and some other deferred maintenance. We all added small supplements to not drain our condo fund.

Well - what we didn’t know was that the insurances all went up substantially. I immediately figured out that we need to up our quarterly dues next year and sent out a spreadsheet showing everything to the group.

Well.. the current treasurer wanted to step down anyway and now who do you think got nominated and voted in….

Great

Oh wow! So now we’ll get to see YouTube condo HOA horror stories staring YOU?

I can see it all now: “car enthusiast condo treasurer caught buying fancy golf carts with HOA funds”.😂😂😂😂

oldfarmer50

jmonroe1 said:

laurasdada said:

The wife is officially retired as of 1700 Friday. She is in the "grins and giggles" phase of the "Seven steps of Grief."
I remain gainfully employed, because I.... well... um... want to buy cars?

I actually have much vacation to use by the eoy, but quarter-end work schedules continue to be a burden (12 straight days on, a weekend off, another 12 straight days, maybe more. Yes, including weekends and holidays), one that I'm not sure I'd like to endure much longer.

My Fido guy admonished me to stop saving and start spending! How can I do that living on Social Security!?

————————————————-
You’d be surprised. But you can’t buy a car every other year. More like every 3 years but I don’t even do that.

jmonroe

Let’s see, I bought 3 cars in 16’, retired in 17’, bought a car in 18’,19’ and 20’, took a pause for the pandemic and then bought a truck in 24’.

So retirement didn’t slow me down too much.

On when to take social security, my experience says 62 if you’re not going to work more than part time at low wages. Until you reach full retirement age there are income limits which will result in you giving back a lot of your benefits. Taking it earlier loses you 8% for every year you take it before age 70 if I remember correctly.

You may get less for taking it early but if you wait too long you may end up paying all your gains to the nursing home or funeral parlor.

kyfdx

If you wait, and then die young, you didn't need the money, anyway.

stickguy

of all the many videos I watched and articles read on the when to take SS debate, the simplest answer came down to, take it when you need it. And retiring earlier in the range if you can is a good thing. Best case, you don't need to combine the 2 so they are independent decisions though for many (most?) people they go together. It is nice though to have a budget where your have fixed income coming in that is more than expenses, so you may not even need to touch the retirement portfolio until RMDs crop up (unless you want to). Just need to figure out how to cover the gap when earned income stops but SS has not started!

ab348

Up here in Kanada there are two (at least, possibly other fringe case programs I'm unaware of) income supplements for people as they get older: the Canada Pension Plan and Old Age Security. I contributed to my work pension for all my career and that allowed me to retire in 2014 before I was even 60. The downside of it is that it does not change because of the cockamamie way it is managed. If the stars align it might go up slightly after this year but no guarantee of that happening. Anyway, that is separate from the two things I mentioned above.

CPP is also a co-pay plan that you pay into while you are working. So I paid into that for 32 years. I forget exactly when it occurred but at some point after I was retired for a few years I got notified that I could start receiving it before I turned 65 if I wanted. The amount you got was on a sliding scale so if you took it before age 65 you got less per month. My work pension is "harmonized" with CPP so that once you turn 65, the monthly payment from the work plan goes down by what you would get at 65 if you didn't start taking it early. This is common with most work pensions here although a few, like those of our municipal govt, are not, so those people can actually make more being retired than they did working full-time. Must be nice.

OAS is different and apparently everyone reaching 65 is entitled to it. I found getting information about it very hard to find from the federal govt. But when I turned 65 I started getting three deposits into my account every month: my somewhat reduced work pension, my CPP payment which offset that reduction, and then another few hundred dollars from OAS. That seemed nice until I had to do my taxes. At some point I got notified that my OAS was being reduced because my income exceeded some sort of limit the govt sets. So it is a social program but the amount paid is so small it probably doesn't do much for most people. Even with that it still made my tax liability increase so that it nets out to next to nothing for me.

The admin overhead for the Feds on all this must be gigantic. Every year when I do my taxes I wonder why they just don't reduce the tax liability you are hit with instead of running the OAS program. I think that is probably true for a lot of govt programs.

tjc78

@oldfarmer50 said:
Oh wow! So now we’ll get to see YouTube condo HOA horror stories staring YOU?

I can see it all now: “car enthusiast condo treasurer caught buying fancy golf carts with HOA funds”.😂😂😂😂

Haha .. our little six unit association would barely buy me a bike!

stickguy

question for the experts. HVAC this kind. For some odd reason (well, I know the reason was it was easier and cheaper for thr HVAC installers) they put the main greatroom air return vents at floor level (flush on the wall). and it also seems to be overly long based on what I was used to. The issue being is they put it right where we want to put a dining room sideboard.

so the question is, how much clearance do we really need for that? The googles has all kinds of opinions. Ideally it should have no obstructions, but reality and ideal rarely match.

I could leave the piece 2" off the wall at most, so some room to circulate but concerned it would not be enough. The return is about 6" high off the floor, and I believe the feet on the sideboard are maybe 1-2" max. so a little circulation from underneath and the end.

so we are concerned about hurting the system by blocking some of the return flow, which is not good.

one option might be to get taller legs put on (or find a different unit that sits higher off the floor). That way at least the full face of the vent would not have anything directly in front of it.

as always, all opinions welcomed!

kyfdx

Gas or electric? Central air or heat pump?

jmonroe1

oldfarmer50 said:

jmonroe1 said:

laurasdada said:

The wife is officially retired as of 1700 Friday. She is in the "grins and giggles" phase of the "Seven steps of Grief."
I remain gainfully employed, because I.... well... um... want to buy cars?

I actually have much vacation to use by the eoy, but quarter-end work schedules continue to be a burden (12 straight days on, a weekend off, another 12 straight days, maybe more. Yes, including weekends and holidays), one that I'm not sure I'd like to endure much longer.

My Fido guy admonished me to stop saving and start spending! How can I do that living on Social Security!?

————————————————-
You’d be surprised. But you can’t buy a car every other year. More like every 3 years but I don’t even do that.

jmonroe

Let’s see, I bought 3 cars in 16’, retired in 17’, bought a car in 18’,19’ and 20’, took a pause for the pandemic and then bought a truck in 24’.

So retirement didn’t slow me down too much.

On when to take social security, my experience says 62 if you’re not going to work more than part time at low wages. Until you reach full retirement age there are income limits which will result in you giving back a lot of your benefits. Taking it earlier loses you 8% for every year you take it before age 70 if I remember correctly.

You may get less for taking it early but if you wait too long you may end up paying all your gains to the nursing home or funeral parlor.

————————————————
I should have been more specific and said new cars or almost new cars not hoopties or near hoopties.

As for SS. I started taking mine at 62 because I wasn’t working as a consultant then. I was between consulting jobs and I needed something to live on and I didn’t want to tap my 401K even though I could have taken money from that account. Right or wrong that’s what I chose to do. After getting maybe 3 or 4 SS checks. I was asked to come back as a consultant again. So, I turned off SS. This had to happen 3 or 4 times before I chose to retire at 73. My full retirement age was 65 years and 10 months. At that time I was informed by the SSA that since I received at least 1 SS check I had to take retirement at that age. I could not choose to take it at 70 but I was going to take it at 65 years and 10 months anyway.

When I did that I told Mrs. j that all I wanted was about 10 months of working and still getting all of my SS without having to give back any of it. Well, I blew past that target date by quite a bit to the point that I almost felt like I was cheating. So, if anyone tells you that you can’t turn SS on and off that’s not true because I did it several times I just kept what I was allowed to take without giving any of it back and that amount changed every year. Worked like a charm. However, that might not be the case now but I’m not retiring now.

jmonroe

corvette

stickguy said:

of all the many videos I watched and articles read on the when to take SS debate, the simplest answer came down to, take it when you need it.

Yeah, one of the financial podcasters I listen to sort of encouraged people to take it before age 70, the reasoning being that, although age 70 is mathematically optimal in that it's far cheaper than buying an annuity in the private market to provide that level of guaranteed income for the remainder of your life, you also have more years to spend and otherwise enjoy the money the earlier you take it.

stickguy

Absolutely key that not having a quality retirement is not a good trade off for having more
Money when you die.

The HVAC is gas fired furnace and central air. The return in question is a double. There is another double and 2 singles in the first floor.

kyfdx

stickguy said:

Absolutely key that not having a quality retirement is not a good trade off for having more

Money when you die.

The HVAC is gas fired furnace and central air. The return in question is a double. There is another double and 2 singles in the first floor.

You can block it... likely won't make any difference. Especially since it's on the floor? Do you have vaulted ceilings?

stickguy

not on the floor. at floor level, on the wall. basically replacing the 6" baseboard at that point. 9' ceilings, not vaulted.

at my prior houses the returns were up near the ceiling on the wall, so out of the way. Not used to seeing them at floor level. and very inconvenient since it takes up a section of the wall.

kyfdx

stickguy said:

not on the floor. at floor level, on the wall. basically replacing the 6" baseboard at that point. 9' ceilings, not vaulted.

at my prior houses the returns were up near the ceiling on the wall, so out of the way. Not used to seeing them at floor level. and very inconvenient since it takes up a section of the wall.

Also, not very effective for A/C.

jmonroe1

stickguy said:

not on the floor. at floor level, on the wall. basically replacing the 6" baseboard at that point. 9' ceilings, not vaulted.

at my prior houses the returns were up near the ceiling on the wall, so out of the way. Not used to seeing them at floor level. and very inconvenient since it takes up a section of the wall.

————————————————
I’ve never seen a house built with all the returns at the top. I’ve only seen that in the South where it’s a lot warmer than in the North and even then only with vaulted/cathedral ceilings. But if it worked that’s fine.

There is a conventional way to do HVAC and that is cold air returns are to be at the bottom and discharge is to be at the bottom also but not on the same wall as the discharge. The house I live in now was built in the mid 70’s and someone, more than likely the people who built the house, had the right idea to install high and low discharge vents. I’m sure that was an upcharge because of the work and extra material to do it that way and it works great.

When we moved in, Mrs. j was so conditioned to knowing not to block the discharge vents that she said, “I guess I’ll have to arrange the room like this” (she was standing in the living room at the time). I told her not to worry about furniture arrangement in this house because it had high and low discharge vents. She was thrilled to hear that. I told her I’d set all the discharges to be at the top since we were still in the warm time of the year and if it didn’t work for heat she’d have to rearrange later. I have never touched the discharge vents again since we’ve been here. Both heat and cooling come out of the top vents and it’s been that way since we got here in August of 1998. I know the conventional theory of HVAC but practically for a given house trumps the theory.

As for your cold air returned, put the furniture where you want it and see how it works. If there is good cold air return draw, you should be fine. You can get a pretty good idea of the draw by putting a facial tissue close to the return and see if it is quickly drawn to the cold air return. But like I said nothing trumps a real word test.

FWIW, we have a large sofa under the living room bay window that is blocking (about 3 inches from the wall) a 30 inch cold air return and that room is warm in the Winter and cool in the Summer.

And another FWIW, when I extended the original deck to go across the back of the house (40 feet along the house), since I decided to do that I wanted a door out of the dining room to the deck. So I had to remove the large window to install a sliding door at the same point. There was a cold air return dead center below the window on the wall at the floor so that had to be removed. I took measurements where the duct ran under the floor to that return vent that was removed just in case I had to install a return in the floor. Turned out I didn’t need to go through all of that work after all. The dining room is warm in the Winter and cool in the Summer even without a cold air return. Again, there is theory and there is real life. So, do what you want with your furniture, you’ll know soon enough if it works.

Let us know how it worked out.

jmonroe

stickguy

the problem with trying it out is spending a lot of money on the server that can only go in one spot. So not a good risk!

the vents are done as you described, with separation of the supply and return. Supply on the first floor are in the floor, returns on the wall at baseboard level.

I came up with an alternative plan that to me makes more sense overall. They same company has a tall cabinet option, so I can fit that on the wall without blocking the vent, and not having the bank of light switches in the middle of the wall (unfortunate side effect of pocket doors) being 2 inches above the top of the server. Then we can get a table style buffet sideboard to fill the space in front of the vents since it won't block anything. wife of course is against it. supposedly because "it would leave an open space" but mostly because it was my idea. there was going to be a 2-3 foot gap anyway, now there will be a 5-6 foot gap, which actually will give a lot more options.

but most likely she will just be cranky about it and complain that we will never find anything now if we can't have the one we saw today. So maybe it works out to my favor, and we don't spend any money!

jmonroe1

stickguy said:

the problem with trying it out is spending a lot of money on the server that can only go in one spot. So not a good risk!

the vents are done as you described, with separation of the supply and return. Supply on the first floor are in the floor, returns on the wall at baseboard level.

I came up with an alternative plan that to me makes more sense overall. They same company has a tall cabinet option, so I can fit that on the wall without blocking the vent, and not having the bank of light switches in the middle of the wall (unfortunate side effect of pocket doors) being 2 inches above the top of the server. Then we can get a table style buffet sideboard to fill the space in front of the vents since it won't block anything. wife of course is against it. supposedly because "it would leave an open space" but mostly because it was my idea. there was going to be a 2-3 foot gap anyway, now there will be a 5-6 foot gap, which actually will give a lot more options.

but most likely she will just be cranky about it and complain that we will never find anything now if we can't have the one we saw today. So maybe it works out to my favor, and we don't spend any money!

————————————————
I thought you already had the piece of furniture. OK, use something you already have that is approximately the same size. Maybe even try a couple boxes to form the size of what you want to buy. There is usually a way if you want it bad enough.

jmonroe

stickguy

I don't want it that bad. and probably would not easily be able to tell if it is causing a loss of effectiveness. I do know that the size of the space is just about at the top of the system capability so lowering effectiveness would not be a good thing. Every industry source online at least is real clear about not interfering with them!

I wanted to use the china hutch we brought from the old house but the boss did not think it was good enough. It was an amazon piece I put together, thought it is surprisingly nice for one of those and would not be an embarrassment. but that is staying in the basement for overflow.

qbrozen

@tjc78 said:
No good deed goes unpunished!

We had a very expensive year at our shore condo. The decks needed redone and some other deferred maintenance. We all added small supplements to not drain our condo fund.

Well - what we didn’t know was that the insurances all went up substantially. I immediately figured out that we need to up our quarterly dues next year and sent out a spreadsheet showing everything to the group.

Well.. the current treasurer wanted to step down anyway and now who do you think got nominated and voted in….

Great

You had no say in it? Our condo HOA keeps trying to get me to become the new president. I just keep saying no. I don’t need the headache. And I live much too far away.

imidazol97

I'm with Nancy Reagan on this extra stuff. I just say NO.

driver100

@ab348 What happened? You didn't notify me;

DETROIT -- Jaguar is telling owners of about 3,000 electric SUVs to park them outdoors and away from structures due to the risk of battery fires.

The British automaker is recalling I-Pace SUVs from the 2019 model year, but has not yet developed a final remedy.

As an interim fix, dealers will update the battery energy control computer to limit battery charging to 80% of capacity. The company has issued three previous recalls for the same problem, and all of the SUVs will need the new remedy. The previous recalls updated diagnostic software.

The automaker says in documents posted Thursday by U.S. safety regulators that there have been three fires in the U.S. after previous software updates on the vehicles. No injuries were reported.

“Owners who have previously had their vehicle updated with the improved diagnostic software are under the impression that their vehicle is protected from thermal overload which, for 2019 MY (model year) vehicles, may not be the case,” the documents say.

Documents say that the I-Pace batteries were made in Poland by LG Energy Solution, whose products are under investigation by the U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.

Keeping you all up to date!

snakeweasel

@stickguy said:
vanilla is a mess

Thanks for the information, now can you tell me if water is wet, asking for a friend.

tjc78

@stickguy
If you have a good amount of returns elsewhere I wouldn’t worry about it. If you were really worried about take the grill off to gain a bit of airflow. Also if there is a filter in there take that out for the same reason.

@qbrozen
I guess I could have said no but after pretty much rebalancing the entire fund I would have felt like an [non-permissible content removed] saying no. It’s not a big deal - three or four bills a year to pay, a trip or two to the bank, and I’ll email a statement update every month

jmonroe1

tjc78 said:

@stickguy

If you have a good amount of returns elsewhere I wouldn’t worry about it. If you were really worried about take the grill off to gain a bit of airflow. Also if there is a filter in there take that out for the same reason.

@qbrozen

I guess I could have said no but after pretty much rebalancing the entire fund I would have felt like an [non-permissible content removed] saying no. It’s not a big deal - three or four bills a year to pay, a trip or two to the bank, and I’ll email a statement update every month

————————————————-
If you do the bookkeeping right you can have a new golf cart by the time the season opens in 2025.

jmonroe

stickguy

we decided to order the tall hutch instead of the sideboard, so taking care of the issue that way. Besides, I already know that the top of a sideboard would just collect junk. Speaking from experience here....

JMonroe, I know I broke your heart agreeing to buy a new dining room set. Even got 2 extra chairs for a total of 8. for the 1 day a year we need them! But it made someone happy.

also put a deposit down on a nice new bedroom set. That hurt. But, we have had the current one for 38 years so got our money's worth out of it. and will parcel out the pieces to the other bedrooms (at least that is the plan, assuming it all fits, if not, it goes on sale.

roadburner

Our house has the returns at baseboard level on the first floor and ceiling level on the second floor. The original HVAC contractor told my parents to open the second floor returns and close the first floor returns in the summer and in the winter close the second floor returns and open the first floor returns. My current HVAC contractor says just leave them all open so that is what I do.

tjc78

We have returns all over. Some high some low. It’s an over complicated system with the dual zone controller … but works well.

Not sure why they didn’t just go full dual units instead of a monster single unit with zoning.

roadburner

@tjc78 Just wondering, but how often do you check your EQE for spontaneous combustion? I used to throw on my fire suit, grab my halon extinguisher and conduct a 360 degree inspection of my 4xe every 15 minutes. I've backed off to every 30 minutes, but I'm still a bit nervous.

tjc78

@roadburner said:
@tjc78 Just wondering, but how often do you check your EQE for spontaneous combustion? I used to throw on my fire suit, grab my halon extinguisher and conduct a 360 degree inspection of my 4xe every 15 minutes. I've backed off to every 30 minutes, but I'm still a bit nervous.

Haha … it spent 2 months in the garage without moving! So far so good

laurasdada

Warning: I may have gotten carried away here...

I hope your houses aren't heated with gas! Or you have cars fueled by gasoline! Thankfully, my horse and carriage has never spontaneously combusted.

"It seems like something that could only appear in a movie, but on Friday, it was reality: The ocean was on fire. A gas leak west of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula broke out of an underwater pipeline, causing bright flames to appear to boil up to the Gulf of Mexico's surface and create what many described as an "eye of fire."

"Oklahoma gas pipeline explodes, shooting flames 500 feet into the air"

"Three fires broke out on Thursday at different facilities in Mexico and the United States operated by state-owned Mexican oil company Pemex..."

So, make sure you don't park your boat anywhere near the Gulf of Mexico, put gas in your car, or park your electric car in Oklahoma.

Many things catch fire and blow up.

In my direct neighborhood, several BEVs (including a black Jag I-Pace and a Fisker Ocean! And I've seen it on the road!)) and PHEVs, we remain un-singed. (Roadburner, perhaps like me, you should setup a cot and sleep in the garage with a fire blanket close at hand)

And, even as a Jag fan, TBH am I surprised by a British electric vehicle with... wait for it... electrical issues? Ok, let's primarily blame LG. That'll make me feel better.

And, fair and balanced, I acknowledge the potential severity of a BEV battery fire. As well as the potential severity of being hit by lightning, bitten by a rattlesnake, attacked by a Dingo and swimming in the ocean (sharks!). Not to mention the following:

• Lions
  
• Tigers
  
• Bears
  
• Oh, my!
  

tjc78

In terms of home catastrophes I worry more about a burst pipe pouring in thousands of gallons of water than I do a fire (especially one caused by an idle vehicle in my garage)

driver100

I just don't like buying a new $70000 car and being told not to park it in the garage because it might explode.......but, some people don't see a problem with that!

My friends new Lyriq had to be left in an empty field until a replacement battery arrived from Detroit. It took a few weeks to arrive and it cost $20000 for the battery and installation...if he had to pay. Those are problems I don't want to deal with....I jump in my gasser and would rather play tennis or pickleball personally.

stickguy

I saw 2 lyrics today in the space of 20 minutes while out shopping. Someone must be buying them. And I would bet that very few people pay attention to those warnings and just park in the garage anyway.

laurasdada

I understand, driver100.
Thank goodness there has never been an ICE car fire in a garage.

laurasdada

And while merely a very minor blip in the pantheon of world problems, this Vanilla issue is just a bit annoying. But, minorly so.

roadburner

I suspect everyone here (but one person) will get this:

oldfarmer50

roadburner said:

@tjc78 Just wondering, but how often do you check your EQE for spontaneous combustion? I used to throw on my fire suit, grab my halon extinguisher and conduct a 360 degree inspection of my 4xe every 15 minutes. I've backed off to every 30 minutes, but I'm still a bit nervous.

You can never be too careful:

abacomike

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

not on the floor. at floor level, on the wall. basically replacing the 6" baseboard at that point. 9' ceilings, not vaulted.

at my prior houses the returns were up near the ceiling on the wall, so out of the way. Not used to seeing them at floor level. and very inconvenient since it takes up a section of the wall.

————————————————
I’ve never seen a house built with all the returns at the top. I’ve only seen that in the South where it’s a lot warmer than in the North and even then only with vaulted/cathedral ceilings. But if it worked that’s fine.

There is a conventional way to do HVAC and that is cold air returns are to be at the bottom and discharge is to be at the bottom also but not on the same wall as the discharge. The house I live in now was built in the mid 70’s and someone, more than likely the people who built the house, had the right idea to install high and low discharge vents. I’m sure that was an upcharge because of the work and extra material to do it that way and it works great.

When we moved in, Mrs. j was so conditioned to knowing not to block the discharge vents that she said, “I guess I’ll have to arrange the room like this” (she was standing in the living room at the time). I told her not to worry about furniture arrangement in this house because it had high and low discharge vents. She was thrilled to hear that. I told her I’d set all the discharges to be at the top since we were still in the warm time of the year and if it didn’t work for heat she’d have to rearrange later. I have never touched the discharge vents again since we’ve been here. Both heat and cooling come out of the top vents and it’s been that way since we got here in August of 1998. I know the conventional theory of HVAC but practically for a given house trumps the theory.

As for your cold air returned, put the furniture where you want it and see how it works. If there is good cold air return draw, you should be fine. You can get a pretty good idea of the draw by putting a facial tissue close to the return and see if it is quickly drawn to the cold air return. But like I said nothing trumps a real word test.

FWIW, we have a large sofa under the living room bay window that is blocking (about 3 inches from the wall) a 30 inch cold air return and that room is warm in the Winter and cool in the Summer.

And another FWIW, when I extended the original deck to go across the back of the house (40 feet along the house), since I decided to do that I wanted a door out of the dining room to the deck. So I had to remove the large window to install a sliding door at the same point. There was a cold air return dead center below the window on the wall at the floor so that had to be removed. I took measurements where the duct ran under the floor to that return vent that was removed just in case I had to install a return in the floor. Turned out I didn’t need to go through all of that work after all. The dining room is warm in the Winter and cool in the Summer even without a cold air return. Again, there is theory and there is real life. So, do what you want with your furniture, you’ll know soon enough if it works.

Let us know how it worked out.

jmonroe

Just had to replace my HVAC unit in the ceiling of my foyer in my condo. The compressor on the roof is working fine, but the air-handling unit became seriously corroded. They charged me $1805 for the part (which is huge) and installation which took 4 hours. My system is a Rheem. The air-handling unit and compressor were 9 years old. He inspection on the roof revealed that the compressor was good for at least another 6-7 years. The corrosion caused the drip pan used for condensation to become detached from the air-handling unit and was being held in place by the hose leading into the wall entry for the four units on my line - I'm on the second floor.

Hopefully, the system won't have to be replaced for awhile. The air-handling unit is much quieter that the old unit which you can barely hear when it switches on.

laurasdada

roadburner said:

I suspect everyone here (but one person) will get this:

This shook me all night long.

Kirstie_H

explorerx4 said:

If you are looking for another symptom, I have a draft(which eventually posted) that I can't delete.

SAME. This is really annoying for everyone.

Kirstie_H

Vanilla says that the issue is isolated to very long discussions, and the fix may take weeks (or more) to implement. Since the current state of errors is pretty unbearable, we're going to close this discussion for now and continue in the same titled discussion, part 2.
https://forums.edmunds.com/discussion/71504/general/x/edmunds-members-cars-and-conversations-part-2/p1?new=1