GMC Yukon

dagwoodq

I have noticed that my '97 GMC Yukon has a very bouncy ride at road speed if the surface is the least bit wavy. Other than that, it is a great road vehicle. Anybody have knowledge as to the best brand/model shock absorber to cure this?

0patience

Rancho and Rough Country make excellent shocks for trucks, but you should understand, it is a truck and shocks may help a bit, but they aren't going to cure it.

Mr_Shiftright

It's rather the nature of the less sophisticated suspension of a truck. You might try some Bilstein shocks if you don't mind paying the price, or Opatience's suggestion is great if your budget can't relate to Bilstein prices.

ryanbab

edelbrock IAS shocks

jgmilberg

I have used Monroe Sensatrac shocks on all of my vehicles, with a great degree of improved ride on every model. Took all the bounce out of my wifes S-10 and my old full size Dodge passenger van. Have put them on my family's vehicles too, and all have had extremely positive remarks on ride and hadeling improvements, the other cars/trucks are a 87 S10, 87 Chevy Astro, 85 Chrysler K car(rear shocks front struts), 91 Olds Delta 88 (struts on all 4 corners)

They have just become available at my local parts store, Murray's

Good Luck

drej

Hey troubleshooters out there.
My 95 truck is really acting up last few days, if anyone has a solution before it gets worse & I take it in to the dealer let me know.
Its a "Starting problem" The truck starts fine in the morning or after its been sitting a long while ( or right after you shut it off... & turn it on again) , But after driving it, if you shut it off... and come back after 20 minutes or so it just won't start. All I get is cranking...(I left work once and couldn't start to get back)(on another occasion I did get a start out of it on a 6th or 7th try once, it was like the 7th try when I turned the key it didn't even struggle and started right up at the touch of the key). Also once, I did try pressing the pedal all the way down "as maybe it was flooded" but no luck.
Notes: I did a tuneup about a few months ago, its got ~68K mi. Its' a 5.7L V-8 with a TBI Rochester carb. I did a top end cleaning today to see if it will help. I also checked for loose fittings as I pressure cleaned the engine compartment a while ago.
Help with Ideas & Thanks in advance folks:
DREJ,(with his fingers crossed as he starts the truck)

jgmilberg

I had a Buick Le Sabre and 2 Astro vans that had the same problem. It was the ignition module, the one under the distributor cap. If you are looking at the dist. the part where the wires hook up and the cap is notched out for. Thats the ignition module, replace that, costs around $35 in my area, at the local parts store, dealer of course will be more. You can have it tested, but most of the time it will test good until it gets warm/hot. Good luck and keep us posted.

Mr_Shiftright

It's not a bad guess, inasmuch as the problem seems a) intermittent and b) heat related.

jgmilberg

It only goes out after the truck is shut off because of heat soak. The heat in the engine increases when shut down and the fan and water pump stop moving. The heat then creeps up the distributor and causes the no start problem. If you raise the hood and wait 20 minutes it should start again. For $30-$35 it is worth changing out ignition module just to rule it out as a problem. The tricky part about this is that no computer code will be set to give a helping hand in the trouble shooting. If all else fails take it to the dealer, it will cost $80 to have it checked out and a definite problem traced. Beware of the sticker shock of the repairs at the dealer, check with your local parts store for prices, and see if you can do it yourself, it will save loads of money in the long run. I would put money on the module being the culprit.

sonjaab

i HAD A 94 YUKON with the same problem (under
warranty) And Mr. dealer couldn't find it
the first time . But he did say it needed
$800 worth of brakes. LOL !!!!!!!!!Not under
warranty either............Geo

tracycgoodrich

Two weeks ago I replaced the complete fuel pump assembly due to the vehicle not starting and no fuel reaching the enging. Yesterday evening I again experienced the same problem and had to call AAA to have the vehicle towed home. It appears to be another fuel pump problem. Can anyone tell me if they have had similar problems? Its a4WD with the 5.7l Vortec engine.

Tracy Goodrich
tracycgoodrich@cs.com

jgmilberg

Have the mechanic check the following sensors, one bad one will cause the fuel pump to not pump.

Oil pressure sending unit
Crankshaft Position sensor
Ignition module

No oil pressure will shut the pump off to protect the engine from severe damage.

Crank sensor tells the computer when to fire the injectors, if no signal from that, and the computer will not fire the injectors.

Ignition module failure would not fire the plugs, but fuel will still be sent to the cylinders. It would act like no fuel.

You also could have gotten a bad fuel pump, or the mechanic may have re-installed the old fuel strainer on the bottom of the pump. If that strainer is clogged up the pump will suck it up against the intake port stopping the gas, and shutting your truck off.

How many miles are on the truck? Is the problem while you are driving or after you drive and stop, then get back in to go, like if you stopped to fill up or the like? Who are you taking the truck to? Is it still under warranty?

jgmilberg

Have you figured out what was wrong with your truck? Keep us posted if any thing else comes up, and if you have fixed it.

rtqk

Have 1996 Yukon 5.7L 58K miles, auto trans. Approx 2-3 months ago, engine began pinging and spark knocking when under load, i.e. driving up mountain or pulling a boat. I have cleaned/gapped/changed spark plugs without improvement. Also changed brands of gasoline, all 87 octane, but no improvement. Problem does improve during night driving. Has anyone had similiar problem? Is this computer related? Would appreciate input from anyone with experience and cure for this problem.
Richard
RichardQuillen@msn.com

jgmilberg

It could be a bad sending unit for the computer. Not sure about '96, but my old '92 had 2 sending units, one for the computer and one for the gauge. I had to go to the dealer to get the thing because none of the parts stores carried it, or even knew what I was talking about. Try flushing out the cooling system and changing the thermostat, as well. Sender was around $30. Timing could be off too, have it checked by a service center, the computer timing has to be disabled to set or check the timing correctly. Have you changed the plug wires, cap and rotor? If not get ONLY GM/AC Delco parts, the aftermarket cheapy stuff is junk and will cause more problems that they are worth. Only other brand I would use would be Accell, you can find that stuff at the high performance auto stores, like Summit, or Jegs. If the cheap stuff is what you used it could also be the culprit. Only other thing I can think of is a stretch out timing chain, but the computer can compensate for that with the cam and crank sensors, I think.

drej

Yes, I fixed the "Starting problem" by drying out the engine compartment or distributor.... Must have got it wet with the engine cleaning.
Thanks for Support.