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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair



  • jasjas Posts: 115

    Not sure about the lights, if you don't get a response, I would check with a dealer. I am sure it is possible.

    I looked into the various BMW rims, which I think they have some of the best options (typically in the upper $300's to low $400's per wheel). You can get a BMW wheel catalog from a dealer - it is about a 1/4" thick and has all of the BMW wheels and applications - which is alot.

    If you have a style number you can call a boneyard to see what their price is (If they exist in any boneyard, they can usually obtain them) but it might not be a significant savings. Chances are it will be hard to find somebody upgrading their M rims. Not sure where you live, but there is a California selling website you can search ( search on BMW wheels. Good Luck.
  • lovemyclklovemyclk Posts: 351
    You may wish to check your local high-end wheel/tire upgrade shops. There is always someone exchanging OEM wheel/tire combos for something outrageous! You may find that they can hook you up.

    Here in Atlanta, Butler Tire resells OEM combos...
  • manybmwsmanybmws Posts: 347
    get a nice set of BMW wheels and tires.
  • ryanmryanm Posts: 1
    For the past year and a half, I've been having a strange, intermittent problem with my car. Every now and then, it will start acting up for 1-3 days, during which, the tachometer will get stuck up around 3 or 4 rpm and my car will feel as though it's locking up. The car also makes a loud revving noise when this happens. I will take my foot off of the gas, but nothing happens. I have to hit the brakes hard in order to release the car. Sometimes when this problem is happening, the tachometer will jump up to 3 or 4 rpms as soon as I turn on the engine. Other times it just happens as I'm driving, sometimes at 30-40 mph, other times at 60-70 mph. The car will act up for a day or so and then may be fine for the next few months. Then one day, it will happen again. I've taken the car in to two different BMW dealerships and they can't find anything wrong. They say the transmission is fine and that the onboard computer isn't reporting any problems. However, I know I'm not crazy because I've had plenty of passengers in the car with me who have experienced this. I am at a loss as to what could be causing this and what I can do about it. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. -RyanM
  • warthogwarthog Posts: 216
    The poor A/C performance in city traffic was indeed a faulty auxiliary fan. Fixed under warranty.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Hmmm, I don't know why, but my gut tells me that you may have a problem with your cruise control. I don't know if it has a separate circuit breaker/fuse, but if it does, you might want to pull the breaker/fuse to see if the problem is eliminated.

    Best Regards,
  • vsaxenavsaxena Posts: 203
    DSP = Digital Signal Processing.
    But you go one to say that it "enhances it through analog signal processing". Am I missing something here?
  • jasjas Posts: 115
    I don't have a real solution for your problem, but an option to seek out. I have run into similar intermittent problems and found that in most cases dealers are worthless. With all of the electrical systems, if the computer does not detect a problem, they don't know how to trouble shoot. Further, the good mechanics usually leave the dealers and go out on their own. I would seek out an independent BMW mechanic that could possibly do some real trouble shooting AND try the suggestions (like shipo recommended). You may have to eliminate some options to get to the real problem.
  • cmr530icmr530i Posts: 278
    Cool! Literally. Happy to hear the problem was fixed.
  • rich545rich545 Posts: 386
    I hear what you're saying about the software muddog. I just brought in my month old 545 for something else (not anything wrong) and there were two recalls, and one was the software upgrade. They gave my a 325i loaner and I felt the same way without active steering. I went real wide around several turns!
  • tam2ktam2k Posts: 16
    About 16 days ago, I purchased a 2003 CPO'd 525i with about 12K miles. While driving it yesterday morning, I suddenly had a tire blowout( not a flat) on my front left passenger side. The tire blew without any warning. The car has the original factory tires. Was there any recall on these tires? Has anyone had this experience? I'm going to call the dealer today to discuss. Any advice would be appreciated!
  • riezriez Posts: 2,361
    tam2k... BMW's CPO program does have some standards in regard to the tires and tire wear. You should ask to see the dealer's data on these criteria, esp. measured tread wear. And see if they have any data regarding whether they properly inflated the tires. Also, ask if these were the original tires.

    What make/model/size tire was it?

    You don't discuss how fast you were travelling, what sort of load (passengers & luggage) you were carrying, outside temperatures, road surface conditionss, tire inflation info, etc. which might be related to your situation.

    Most importantly, what was the diagnosed cause? Was it punctured at all by anything? Had it just hit a big pothole at speed? Were you driving long distances at higher speeds in high heat?
  • tam2ktam2k Posts: 16

    Here are some additional details.

    The tires are Michelin Radial XSE 225/55R 16 95H M+S.

    We were on the interstate at around 10 am about to begin a 200 mile trip. There were 3 people in the car and a couple of medium size bags in the trunk. We didn't hit any kind of pothole or anything in the road. We were riding along talking and then we heard a loud explosion sound. Then the steering wheel shook and we immediately pulled off to the side of the road. That's when I saw the tire had exploded around the rim of the tire.

    I was told that these were the original tires when I bought the car.

    I'm going to take the tire for someone to review today.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Happy to help; I'm glad your problem was easily resolved.
  • enkkenenkken Posts: 10
    I would like to get feedbacks from other owners for a problem, at least I think it is, with the front suspension.

    I have a 2000 528iT with 46K miles. Under braking, say approaching a stop light, and hitting a pothole or bump causes the front end to shake violently. It seems like the front end is moving up and down with the steering wheel shaking vigorously. In normal driving, bumps and potholes are swallowed up like they should be. What's disconcerting to me is that when it happens I feel like I have no control over the car. When I took the car in to a BMW dealership, mechanics found all mechanical parts to be fine. Their explanation is that when I hit a bump, ABS kicks in and that's what I am feeling. Does this sound right? Do other owners have similar experience? I have owned other cars with ABSs, but they never kicked in with such intrusive vigor. One complicating factor with diagnosing the problem is that it does not happen all the time, and I have to be braking and hitting decent size potholes just right.

    Thanks in advance for your feedback.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 18,646
    If you are braking and going over bumps at the same time it's almost guaranteed that the ABS will kick in. I'd try going over bumpy roads a little more slowly.

    If this persists to an annoying degree find a tech who is willing to take a little ride and feel for himself what's going on but I think you're getting the straight scoop.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • vsaxenavsaxena Posts: 203
    Whenever the ABS on my Pathfinder kicks in, I can hear it and feel the vibrations. True that the Pathfinder is no E39 but still..
  • dallas92dallas92 Posts: 5
    I have a 545i but it doesn't have this problem. However, I experienced the same problem in my 2000 A6 2.7T, my service advisor recommended a nice trick that helped get rid of the problem:
    1. Roll down the windows
    2. Set the temperature to Max., and fan speed to High
    3. Get out of the car, and let it run for 10-15 minutes
    4. The generated heat should dry up the A/C ducts and release any mold that had accumulated due to cold and high moisture environment

    It works, good luck and please let me know if it works. You can repeat this process every couple of months and save yourself painful frequent dealer visits.

    My car has a fold-down back seat and I am experiencing a rattle noise from the back seat area, took it to the dealer 5 times w/ no luck. Has anyone experienced a similar problem. It's driving me nuts.
  • vanaldervanalder Posts: 29
    What brand/model have you used?
  • All, need some help. Bought my 5iver in Germany and they installed the long european plate holder on the car. When I got back from Germany I took the long plate holder off to install the American plate holder and got a big surprise. There are 2 holes on either side of the American plate holder that are not covered. The dealer used more self tappping screws than holes that were originally in the bumper. I'm looking for an oversized front plate holder for a 525i 2004 BMW to cover the holes made by the dealer. Body shop wants $350 to fix the holes, I might go back to Germany so if I can just cover it I will be happy. Does anyone know where I can buy one?????
  • selooseloo Posts: 606
    I purchased a 2003 525 in Belgium. I found out that BMW has an US and an overseas plate holder. They are easy to pop in and out. Additionally, you can purchase a piece of plastic to replace the plate holder. The car looks much better with a clean front end.

    I would hope that the same parts would be available for the 2004 model.

    Good luck
  • jasjas Posts: 115
    If anybody has a 545 produced after May 04, there is a recall for a problematic ECM that just quits. I just found out today that my 545 is sitting in a parking lot at the VPC with a whole lot of V-8 and V-12 BMW's which cannot be delivered until the ECM is replaced. So if you had a problem, there is a fix.

    If you are waiting for one, take a number. There is three months worth of production that needs to be replaced.

    Also, if anybody was interested in the E60 bumper reflectors (US cars have a black plate, European and European delivery cars have the reflectors), they are available for special order through the Dealer.
  • pen101pen101 Posts: 238
    The following items have caused unscheduled service visits (MY2002 530i):

    Clutch failure - 14K miles
    Cupholder broken - 16K
    Passenger-side seat belt locking mechanism defective - 22K
    Rear bumper - 26K (replaced by insurance as a result of rear-end collision)
    Foglight - 31K

    All but the clutch (most expensive repair) was covered by warranty. At 32k miles, the car still has the original tires, which should last another 5K miles. The oil was replaced only twice, and Service I was performed at 31K miles.
  • designmandesignman Posts: 2,129

    As you can see the screw is in a precarious spot on the right front tire. Would like to know whether the tire can be salvaged. I've been here before and they always say no, need a new tire. Have 8300 miles on tires. Looks like they can go to 15,000. If the tire can't be repaired should I replace all four or just this one and wait? I know what dealer service is going to say… convention says this can't be fixed but I'm not convinced. Would like to hear from people here who have no interest in taking my money. Div2, Riez, Shipo... are you prepared to do your Godfather service? Thanks.

  • ny540i6ny540i6 Posts: 518
    D-man, while I am not among the gurus here, I'll toss an opinion based on a long history of flats, (fixer and fixee)... Looking at the photo, it appears that the screw is exactly on the edge of the "real" rolling area (you can see the color line difference). Based on that, and based on the apparent angle that the screw is at, it should come out in a rather sharply angled corner area of the inner tire carcass. A patch would not hold here. The only solution would be a plug, and that is iffy, besides which, I am not a fan of plugs at all. My suggestion would be to replace both tires on that axle. Nice cross-drills, by the way.
  • carnaughtcarnaught 'zonaPosts: 2,338
    Almost same thing happend to my bro-in-law's 2003 540i with SP and Dunlops. At the dealer, the screw was taken out, being prepared to purchase a new tire. The screw came out and the tire over a month later has not deflated. No patch had been placed.

    Keep in mind that every situation is different but a tire dealer initially had told him to just buy a new tire.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Yes, it's right on the ragged edge, though I'd think an internal plug would probably work. These articles appear to agree:
    If replacement is required, you can get away with just buying one tire. That said, if(like me) you are going to make a habit of collecting screws and nails you might want to look at a less expensive tire that are still performs quite well-such as the Kumho Ecsta MX.
  • capriracercapriracer Somewhere in the USPosts: 855
    The problem with the screw in the tire is where it is. The belt edges are the most highly stressed area of the tire, which is exactly where this screw is.

    Even though the screw didn't penetrate deep enough to cause the tire to leak air, it did penetrate far enough to expose the steel belts to the outside contaminants, insuring that rust will follow, and tread separation after that. I'd advise replacing this tire.

    Hope this helps.
  • designmandesignman Posts: 2,129
    Today is wrangle-with-cars day as wife leaves reminder note on keyboard to take 530 in for state inspection appointment. Tire screw is on Boxster. This and a spit load of work… drats.

    Porsche says replace both tires on axle if tread wear exceeds 30%. Not sure if this is recommendation or if it affects warranty. (Div2… came upon this as a result of your links.)

    I'm inclined to go with the internal mushroom plug contingent upon tire inspection at least as a temp, then maybe order new set of Kinesis 18" turbo wheels/tires which I've been wanting anyway, keeping full spare to replace donut.

    BTW, tire lost 3 lbs of pressure in 1 1/2 days since discovery.

    And so begins another great week. Cars shmars.

  • riezriez Posts: 2,361
    designman... Do what the tire manufacturer/tire dealer and automaker recommend.

    Have the tire inspected by a tire expert to see if it can be patched or otherwise repaired.

    If you replace the one tire, I'd replace both on the same axle.

    Some tire manufacturers don't recommend patches for speed-rated tires. Thinking there are only a few that allow patches, but that once patched, the speed rating goes away.
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