BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

shipo

Regarding the 540i, the block recall was for cars back in the first half of the 1990s, which was well before the E39 5-Series (1996 through current) saw the light of day.

Regarding how they do in the snow, assuming that you are willing to invest in winter tires, or better yet, a winter tire/wheel combo (about $1,000), a 5-Series will do better in the snow than any FWD car shod with "All-Season" tires you have ever driven.

Best Regards,
Shipo

div2

You really need to drive both models and see which one you like best. There really isn't a "wrong" choice. It seems that earlier 540s were prone to radiator failure caused by the upper hose placing stress on the plastic hose inlet. Leaky valve covers are also a problem on some V8s. 528s suffer from thermostat/thermostat housing failures as well as water pump failures at @60K miles. I've been real pleased with the 1997 528iA my wife uses for her work hack; handling and acceleration are fine and fuel economy averages @22 mpg in mainly suburban driving. If it was my primary car it would have to have the Sport package and a manual transmission, but it suits Mrs. div just fine.

need4speed1

I'm considering a 2001 530i w/ PP and SP. It's got 22k miles, so it's still under factory warranty. My concern is the post-warranty maintenance. How much should I expect to pay for scheduled service out of warranty? How would an oil change or a 60k mile service cost me?

I hear the parts and maintenance on these cars are outrageous! I've never had a German car and currently own a 1999 Acura 3.0 CL and have not had ANY problems with this car and paid about $250 for a 30k mile service.

shipo

Hmmm, you should probably call your dealer or your local indy mechanic and ask about the 60K serivce. That said, I am sure that it will be more than $250, and not because the parts and labor are any more expensive than what you paid for your Acura. The extra cost is involved in the "Extra" things that BMW puts in the maintenance schedule. Things such as a complete flush of the brake system and all new fluid as an example. Other cars SHOULD have that done to them as well, however, it seems that few companies recommend this level of detail.

For the sake of argument, lets just say that the 60K maintenance was $800, would the extra $550 every 30K miles prevent you from buying the car?

Best Regards,
Shipo

div2

Most of the "experts" who talk about high maintenance costs on BMWs usually have never even sat in a BMW, much less owned or driven one. These morons usually have a friend who had an uncle who knew a guy who had a kid who was friends with the cousin of a girl who owned a BMW back in 1982. In other words, they don't know what they are talking about. Here are some facts:
BMWs calculate service intervals based on a predetermined base amount of fuel consumed. A 530i will likely require an oil change(Oil Service in BMW-speak) at @15000 mile intervals. After another 15000 or so miles the car will require an "Inspection I" which is essentially an oil change with a fairly thorough check of vehicle systems. Another Oil Service will be called for in another 15000 mile. Next will be the Inspection II after yet another 15000 miles. Inspection II is the major service and calls for changing the oil, spark plugs, air and cabin filters-as well as a plethora of system checks. This sequence will repeat for the life of the car. As for prices, here are some ball park figures:
Oil Service-Dealer:$75-$100 BMW Independent:$50-$75
Inspection I-Dealer:$250-$450 BMW Indep:$150-$200
Inspection II-Dealer:$600-$800 BMW Indep:$400-$700
In addition, coolant is changed every three years($75-$125) and brake fluid is changed every tw years($65-$90). As for consumables, brakes are a bit pricey-go to the dealer and new pads and rotors front and rear will run over $800 installed. A good independent using OEM parts can cut that figure by 50%.
As you can see, finding a good independent BMW tech can save you hundreds of dollars while still providing quality maintenance. Join the BMW Car Club and you will find many dealers and independent shops offer 10%-25% discounts on parts and/or labor. As for my 528i, I perform the oil services myself using an oil extractor, Mobil 1 oil and BMW filters. The cost is @$30 and 45 minutes of my time. My BMW shop charged $125 for my last Inspection I. The prior Inspection II was $441 but it also included replacing the fuel filter(which BMW does not call for), front pads, a tie rod and a front end alignment. Whatever you do, DO NOT-repeat-DO NOT use Jiffy Boob or any other quick-lube type place. I've seen way too many horror stories ranging from cross-threaded/stripped drain plugs to the use of incorrect filters-not to mention over/under filling the sump.
So yes, you may pay a bit more to have a BMW serviced; but in my opinion, the joy of driving it far, far outweighs the slight additional expense.

vinu_neuro

Are there any significant/consistent reliability issues with the 2001 530i?

div2

The six cylinder 5ers have been very reliable since 1998. As I noted above, the thermostat and housing and the water pump usually go out at @60000 miles. Everything else is pretty bulletproof. In my opinion the 530i is the best 5er you can buy.

vinu_neuro

I found a 2001 Silver 530i with 35k miles and Sport Package and Tiptronic, with xenon and sport seats for $33k. Is this a good price?

martents

Have the '03 528. Much better mileage than 540.
agree with div2, "no wrong choice" Have driven many a BMW and am most fond of the '03 528 w/sport package.

As far as snow goes 4-Blizzack snow tires, otherwise park it when snow is forecast. cause it don't go in the snow.

shipo

Ummmm, there is no such thing as an '03 528, with or without Sport Package. There is however a 525i and a 530i.

Best Regards,
Shipo

martents

you are correct it is the 525. the 528 was a short lived vehicle that meet an un timely demise when my wife went deer hunting. totaled at 1,800 miles & 2 months of age.

shipo

"Is the deer alright? No little Tommy, sadly the deer did not make it." If memory serves, Larry Lujack didn't make it either. ;-)

Ouch! I have always been amaized at how much damage a deer could do to a car. I trust that you wife was unharmed.

Best Regards,
Shipo

P.S.
Unless you spent some time in Chicago during the late 1970s or the first three quarters of the 1980s, you probably won't get the first part. ;-)

div2

I had a friend who hit a deer with his E30 318is. It just barely crunched the left front corner of the hood and grille. The thing was, the airbag went off! The deer ran away- no signs of blood anywhere. Now, you want to see a big mess, check out a car that's hit a horse. In the 70s I worked summers for the state highway department. Once we had to go pick up a horse that had been hit by a new Chryler New Yorker. The impact knocked Sea Biscuit onto the car's roof and nearly flattened it. The driver was unhurt.

zeen

Two warning light issues on my 97 528i:
1. Light went on indicating bulb out in right rear. I found the burnt out bulb and replaced it. All bulbs are now working fine, but the warning light won't go out. Any suggestions
2. ASC light is staying on indicating traction control is not working. ASC switch has no effect. Am I looking at an expensive fix? Is it a do-it-yourself job?
Thanks

div2

My 1997 528iA had similar problems with bulbs. I finally found a solution that worked. First off, you need to understand how the bulb monitoring system works. In essence it looks for high resistance in the tested circuit. The system is so sensitive that a bulb that is about to fail may trigger the light, as will small amounts of corrosion on the bulb and/or socket.
Now for the fix: First, always use quality European silver base bulbs of the correct size and wattage(check the owners manual if you aren't sure). The dealer should stock the proper bulbs but you can also find the excellent Sylvania Osram bulbs at AutoZone. While you are there pick up a package of Bulb Grease. Next, remove all the bulbs and clean their bases and sockets with a quality electrical contact cleaner that is SAFE FOR PLASTIC. I use a product from the German company Wurth but Radio Shack should have something similar. After all the bulbs and sockets are clean wait a few minutes to let all traces of the cleaner evaporate. Finally, apply a thin coating of bulb grease to the base of each bulb and button everything back up. The contact cleaner should have removed any corrosion and the dielectric grease will prevent further corrosion. I hope this helps.

zeen

Thanks div2. It turns out that it was my center brake light. Previously, when that bulb went out I recalled seeing a warning on the dash that was pictured on the back window of the car. This time, it was indicating the right rear lights. Sure enough, it was the center light. I did take your advice and clean out all the sockets. I'll try the grease if the problem crops up again.
NOW, if I can just solve the ASC problem

realsox3

I have a 2001,528I. I am having problems with it over heating? I have had it at the dealership several times with no solution! It doesn't do it all the time, but has occured several times and it's pissing me off! Bought it used. Any help would be helpful...... Thanks

finecom

I have an new 2003 540 - it's been to the dealer three times and unable to fix completely a creaking sound from rear passenger side when I go over bumps. Sounds like the door is not closed properly or seat is lose. Dealer checked with BMW - no real solution. I had a 525 loaner car and tried an M5 and they all seem to have this sound. Is it my imagination? Drives me crazy! Any ideas please.

crete

I have a new 2003 540i for about one week now and the last few days I've noticed a rattle sound coming somewhere in the back seat or trunk area. I can't narrow it down but I only get it when I go over bumps. It sounds like a plastic fitting or part is loose. I've checked the trunk and back seat areas but can't determine where it is coming from yet.

cbgb1975

Have you checked to see if spare tire in trunk is locked down , or maybe there's a part in the toolbox that's loose...

karmikan

If you've had your car into the dealer, they should have checked all of the obvious things such as blocked/collapsed hoses, thermostat, fan operation etc. Do you know what they checked?

Do you know if the dealer checked the temp gauge and the temp sender, if there's nothing obviously wrong mechanically, these are possibilities that could make it look as if you're overheating.

When does the car overheat - highway, stop and go traffic or is it weather-related?

Sorry, lots of questions but there could be a number of causes.

crete

I haven't gone to my dealer yet, but I've checked all things possible that would make this noise. It happens going over bumps and quick/hard acceleration. I looked at the tool kit, spare, cd changer, nav unit, luggage straps, even the fold down seats and just can't seem to pinpoint the noise.

cheeks

It could be the leather beaking in or the fold down rear seats (if you have them)

finecom

Cardboard around the fold down seat -- making it a tighter fit -- seems to have almost eliminated the backseat noises

redzone

I just purchased a '98 528i, after owning an'85 325e for about 6 years. Overall the car is great, but like any used car, it has issues. First, even though I filled the window washer container, the solution does not spray when I depress the wiper arm. Second, on occasion the steering wheel and seat movement mechanisms do not work, and then they will. Lastly, should I do anything about the burnt/broken housing over the electrical wires in the engine area?

bmwguru

Redzone, where did you buy this car? It sounds like it has been in a fire or had major electrical problems. It's very possible the wiring harness is fried. The washer pump may need to be replaced. The comfort relay may be going bad or loose.

jjohnjohn

Hello all, I am moving to Atlanta. Does anyone know of any really good independent BMW mechanics? I hate going to the dealer and getting raped!. thanks everyone.

cab10

Have the dealer check the vapor locks in the door panels. I had the same problem. Unfortunately, I had water leaking into the floor on both sides in the exact spots. The vapor locks keep the water out, and both were bad. Since then, the noise has gone away.

seloo

My 2003 525iA is shifting hard into 2nd and 1st gear when I am come to a slow stop. The car has a little over 2000 miles, it started doing this at the end of a 500 mile trip from GA. Any ideas?

spyderred

Have them check your EPROM. My '98 528ia was doing the same thing and one of my friends told me that dealers may have a software upgrade. The dealer ended up replacing my EPROM.

Good luck,
Spyderred,

sb55

I too am getting a very annoying sound on the 'b' pillar or rear door of my '02 530i. Dealer said they could not replicate it (of course), even though it does it over EVERY bump now.
What are vapor locks, and why do they make noise?
Is there DIY fix?
Thanks,
sb55

sharris

Like a couple others here, my 2003 530i 5sp has also started exhibiting a rattle from the rear or trunk of the car. I don't have fold down rear seats. In my case, the rattle seems to happen most at speeds of 60 mph or higher, and more on hard acceleration. I haven't noticed it much or at all at 30 mph or below, and there doesn't seem to be a correlation with the rattle and bumps in the road. The rattle sounds rather metallic, almost like the sound of a broken filament in a light bulb, though a bit deeper and more resonant than that. I've checked the tools in the tool box, looked for anything loose in the trunk, but didn't see anything obvious. I haven't taken it to the dealer (yet). Any ideas?

dinanger

I have a 1999 528 Sport. It's currently at the dealer because it would not start...would not even turn over. They said it was the EWS module (apparently it controls the key lock system and lets the car know that your key is indeed the one for your car). They replaced the EWS and said it still will not start, but they feel a new key is needed as well and should solve the problem. I'll know in a couple of days. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

hasanas

I just bought a brand new 03 530i...and i use a radar which i connect to the cigarette lighter. I just realized recently that when the car is off, the radar still works..hence the battery being drained. Anyone knows how to fix this or will i just keep on having to turn my radar off.

Also surprised that there is only one plug in connection for a car..so if i want to put a cellphone charger, i have to remove the radar..unless i get an outlet.

nh

div2

Radio Shack sells an inexpensive two outlet adapter that should solve your problem:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&cat- - egory%5Fname=CTLG%5F009%5F001%5F002%5F000&product%5Fid=270%2D- - 1535

srfast

plugs into the glove box flashlight receptacle. Check the link. Also, a good radar detector should power itself off after a short period if "inactivity."

http://www.circlebmw.com/parts/access/0004073.htm

Hope this helps....JL

carshopper46

I am picking up a new 530. It currently has Pirelli P6's on but I have read about some problems with the sidewalls. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge about these tires?
 My 97 528 has had two sets of Continental Contitours and I have been satisfied with them and inclined to switch for those.

1stbmw540

I am the proud owner of a new 540 with SP(slate green). Has anyone ever seen or put mud flaps on one. I am concerned that road debris will chip the finish. My 94 Maxima came with them and they complemented the car. Not so sure about putting them on the 540. Dealer wants $58 a set and $80 to install. Any help in this matter would be appreciated

div2

First off, BMW mud guards integrate pretty well with the vehicle styling. Of course, they will be more noticeable on a light colored car such as yours. That said, I have a set fitted to the front of my Bright Red E36/5 and they look fine. You should be able to do better on the price, say $45-$50 per pair with a BMW CCA discount. And $80 for installation? Yeah, right- it's a simple DIY job; one hour, tops. Paying to have mud guards installed is almost as bad as paying for wiper blade installation...:P

riez

div2... I can understand your comment, but I play it extremely safe during the warranty period. I have the dealer pretty much do everything. That way I have all the records and the records show a BMW dealer did all the work. BMW can't complain, the dealer is happy, and a future buyer will be a bit happier. (Don't forget that wiper inserts are a covered maintenance item. Why wouldn't you have the dealer put them on?)

div2

I agree with you with regards to required maintenance-and yes, I'll let the dealer install wiper blades if I don't have to pay(the BMW Store used to include them as part of InspectionI/II). That said, more than a few dealers charge ridiculous prices for accessory installation; I know of one dealer who charges $800 for purchase and installation of the Alpine CD changer. On top of that, they go on to lie outright and tell the poor [non-permissible content removed] that the warranty is void in the case of a DIY install. In contrast, I installed the BMW Keyless Entry/Alarm in my 1995 Club Sport back in 1996. The control unit turned out to be one of a number of units that were prone to false alarms. I went back to the BMW Store to exchange it for the new improved version and I was told to wait until the next Inspection and-since the car was still under warranty-they would install the upgraded unit for free. YMMV, but unless the owner is a complete mechanical moron,I can't see how a DIY mud guard install would void the BMW warranty. Of course, I do know of one dealer in the Northeast who combs the BMW CCA local chapter newsletter for Autocross results so that they can deny warranty coverage in case one of the auto-x competitors shows up in the service department... Who said all the ex-[non-permissible content removed] live in Argentina???

1stbmw540

Thanks for the advice on the mud flaps. Rather than putting them on, I am now considering the 3m clear protective covering for the front, mirrors, and around the wheel wells. Has anyone used that product and do you have any comments? I'm told it is barely noticeable, won't yellow or damage finish and can be removed without damage. I'm also told it's better than a hood mask. Some people have even installed it on the lower door jam where shoes scratch the finish when entering/exiting the vehicle. What do you all think?

jbf5

1stbmw540, I installed the X-pel 3M front end and bumper kits on my 03 530i about a month ago. So far, I'm very pleased with them. The plastic is barely noticeable and seems to have protected the front of the car completely so far. The front end kit wasn't difficult, but I had some trouble with lower part of the bumper kit. I might go with professional installation if you decide to go that route.

1stbmw540

Thanks much for the advice. I think I will have it installed professionally. The cost is minimal compared with the stress level

tigrhwk

Any help would be appreciated with this problem. We recently purchased a 2000 528i with manual. At idle it overheats, to the point where if the car doesn't get moving again the gauge goes into the red zone. Overheating doesn't seem to occur at higher speeds. The dealer checked it out once--after it overheated and required a flat bed transport to the dealer--and replaced the thermostat. More recently the chief mechanic said via phone that the car has two fans, one with the engine and one in the very front that comes on with air-conditioning or if the car overheats. He says both checked out OK before and we have heard the front fan come on a few times ourselves (very noisy). Anyone have any experience with this problem? My wife needs to take the car on a long trip early tomorrow (the dealer can't look at the car again until tomorrow) and this problem makes her (and me!) nervous. Thanks for whatever help you can provide!

dzuba

Good info - I wonder if it will show up "even less" on a black car?

Ball park - what does it cost to have it professionally applied?

div2

With the engine off, try to spin the engine driven fan; it shouldn't rotate more than @1/2 turn. Next turn the key to the "Run" position without starting the car. Turn on the A/C by pushing the "Snowflake" button. The electric fan should start running. Does the car overheat with the A/C on? How about coolant level-is the coolant up to the "KALT" mark when the engine is cold(under 90F)? One other possibility is that the cooling system was not bled properly after the t-stat replacement(BTW, the dealer should have also replaced the plastic t-stat housing-BMW calls for its replacement whenever the car overheats).

tigrhwk

Thanks for the insights, div2. The overheating problem occurs at low speed whether the air is on or not. Wouldn't that point to the engine-driven fan since the front fan does come on with the air conditioning and helps cool it down. FYI, in a subsequent conversation, the dealer surmised that it COULD be the fan clutch (whatever that is) and he will look at that tomorrow. Unfortunately, we do not feel cmnfortable driving the car as is and have made alternative travel arrangements.

jbf5

Dzuba,

Yes, I think the kits would be even more difficult to see on a black car. Mine's Sterling Grey and you have to be at a certain angle to see the font end kit at all. The trailing edge is the most visible part.

Not sure about installation cost. I was looking at it more as a project (ok, I might have a slightly warped sense of what constitutes recreation), so didn't look into that.

1stbmw540

After two days of research, the installed price for the hood, bumper, front spoiler, and mirrors on a 540 with sp is $400-500. Most will throw in the lower door rocker panel (keeps that area free from entry/exit scratches)for free with their extra material they have on hand. Lights/fog lights are about $60. Of course that is not through the dealer. It's best to do your research for your area and try to find the guy the dealer uses. It is a very time consuming project and most dealers sum-contract it out. The experience level varies. Most have been doing it less than two years but all seem well trained. There are about three to four companies that design and cut out the product. All use the 3m product and application process. Their technique at fitting it to your car is what varies. Beware, I've read e-mail testimonials where this process is costing near $800 on the west coast. I plan on getting more written estimates tomorrow and will share the info. Hope this helps