Changing transmission fluid and filter

glennyjaglennyja Member Posts: 8
edited April 2014 in Chevrolet
Just left Jiffy Lube, where they offer a service called T-Tech. Supposedly, they replace close to
100% of the transmission fluid but do not replace the filter. They claim, replacing the filter is not required for most vehicles. Has anyone had any experience with this service? If so, were you satisfied? Were they feeding me a bunch of Bull, when they said it's not necessary to change the transmission filter?

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Some cars do not, in fact, require a filter change, that's true. Nissan Maxima comes to mind as one of them. But other do require it, at certain mileages. So you need to read over the maintenance schedule for your particular car to know for sure, or call the dealer.

    The guys at Jiffy Lube are supposed to sell you these services, so unless your car is "due" for this fluid change, there is no reason to do it. Just putting a little oil on a piece of tissue paper (they love to do that---did they do that for you?) to show you is meaningless.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Actually, I prefer to just drain the fluid via the plug if it has one. Only gets half the fluid but by doing it more often is works and it is an easy do it youself job. The flush may actually loosen a lot of crap and by not dropping the pan and cleaning the screen or changing the filter you could cause problems. It does get all of the old fluid out but not sure it is in the best interest of the tranny. Newer GM cars have 50,000 mile severe service fluid changes and 100,000 normal so Jiffy Lube may just be lloking for more business
    Look in your manual
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I did two drains on my new vehicle to go with the Mobil 1 stuff (I know-it's not a true syn-more like the Castrol stuff). That gets you about 90% syn. I plan on doing one drain every year or two (with syn). Like you said its easy and safe, and relatively cheap.

    Somehow when I hear the words: Jiffy Lube and Transmission I shudder and break into a cold sweat. Scary!
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Why do you say that the Mobil synthetic transmission fluid is not a true synthetic?
    I use Amsoil but always thought the Mobil was a true synthetic?
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I can't get on their website (Mobil). I know the container says 100% synthetic, but I got the impression from their website it was a base petroleum stock. I was going to check on it but now that I'm retired I don't have the time (just kidding). I'll call Mobil today and also check their website. I'll post the link to that page. But if you beat me to it (likely), let me know what you (or others think). Why don't you use Amsoil ATF? I used it a number of years ago for my Ranger. Even though it was a manual, Ford recommended it in the Tranny and Transfer Case-many quarts.

    Al
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I do use the Amsoil ATF. They claim it is universal for all trannies including the Chrysler ones. I have used it in my Camry, Isuzu, Ford and Chev to date with no problems. I know that RedLine makes a different fluid for each manufacturer whereas Amsoil claims that theirs is universal. Anyway, it has worked for me Longest experience for me is in my 92 Camry with 133,000 on tranny changed to synthetic at 25,000 (drain and fill only) and have done the drain and fill every 30,000 since, relatively easy as it has a plug. Isuzu was a bear though as it has no dipstick, just a filler plug and drain what a pain!!!! Chevy swiched at 49,000 and son forgot to stop at a redlight and totaled it at 128,000 but engine and tranny were fine, changed that every 30,000 also. Ford switched at 30,000 when purchased, Isuzu at 57,000 when purchased.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    Man, Jiffy Lube really takes a beating here on Edmunds. This is how I see it: It all depends on which Jiffy Lube you go to. Like any shop, there are good ones and bad ones. When I worked there, we recommended services STRICTLY based on mileage, NOT on the way the fluid looks, yet people would always come in a say "hows my oil look, or hows the transmission fluid look" Unless the fluid was obviously very old (like black ATF in which case we wouldn't change it anyways for fear of "loosening up gunk"), we recommended based on mileage. It is true that many new cars do not require replacing the filter, and on some of them, you need to split the transmission open in order to do so.
  • brucer2brucer2 Member Posts: 157
    The machines used for doing a transmission fluid exchange don't flush anything, or have so much as a pump in them. The only pump used in the process is the pump in the transmission. Fluid flows out of the transmission, into the heat exchanger, and returns to the transmission. The machine is put in the return line. The old fluid goes into the machine and forces new fluid out of the machine and back to the transmission. Nothing new will be loosened up.
    For a true flush, a flushing agent has to be put into the transmsission. On an older transmission that has never had its fluid changed, a flush to remove the build up of varnish and gum is a good idea. 30k miles is the refill schedule, under severe use (which almost everyone falls into as far as the transmission goes).
    Any synthetic ATF, of the proper type, is better than conventional ATF. I use Mobil 1, which is Dexron III compatible. For longest life, have a transmission fluid cooler installed.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes, that last comment is very good advice...the REAL enemy of an automatic transmission is HEAT, no so much dirt except in the extreme of course. Trans oil coolers are a great investment, presuming it's well engineered.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    The severe service schedule for fluid is 50,000 miles and normal is 100,000 miles. Since no drain on these things I will probably pump mine out at 25,000 and go with synthetic. Will see. As to a flush, some machines advertised do the true flush which does get all kinds of gunk and unless you drop the pan and clean the screen I feel you are asking for trouble. This was sold (the machines) as a huge money maker for shops but many now seem to have let it rust in the back due to breakdowns, problems etc. Like engine oil flushes too many unnecessary flushes sold and the public has been turned off!!!!!
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Every auto i ever owned came from the factory with a cooler installed,why would i need to install one.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I think that term gets used in the generic sense around here and that's probably not fair.

    The "Quickie Lube" places get blamed on a lot of mishaps due to screwups and poorly trained personnel.

    In reality, given the large number of cars they work on, they probably do a fairly good job.

    Still, the overselling of services and mistakes that happen once in awhile tend to paint them all with the same broad brush.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Any car with an auto tranny comes with a cooler/heat exchanger in the radiator. The neat trick is to see if a tow package is available for your vehicle and if the price is reasonable, check to see if it includes an EXTERNAL cooler, which looks like a little radiator and is mounted in front of the cooling system radiator. Earlier posts are correct in saying that the boogie man for transmissions is heat. These little external coolers can also be purchased aftermarket for less that $100 and are easy to install. I have a '95 Safari with >60K and the first thing I did when it arrived was add the cooler. Had I known then what I know now, I would have ordered it with the towing package.

    Jim
  • brucer2brucer2 Member Posts: 157
    If you are refering to the part of the radiator that the transmission fluid goes to, that really isn't a cooler: it's a heat exchanger. It actually warms the fluid up faster when the trans fluid is below normal operating temp. It should help a with over temp fluid, but really can't. I know that the fluid in my Nissan transmissions should be between 50 - 80 C (122 - 178 F). The engine has a 195 F termostat. Now, even with the transmission cooling coil being located by the water outlet of the radiator, the temp is still going to be close to the upper limit of the fluid temp spec. In hot weather, under loads like bumper to bumper traffic, it's easy to get the fluid temp much higher than 200 F. The heat exchanger in the radiator will never get it down to where it's supposed to be. This is why you need an external cooler. BTW, this is also why many transmission shops insist on installing a cooler after rebuilding a transmission: they want to make sure it gets through its warranty period.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    one could use use synthetic ATF oil. Corvette was able to do without an external engine oil cooler by using syn.
  • brucer2brucer2 Member Posts: 157
    The fluid isn't the only thing in the transmission that is heat sensitive. The seals and friction materials become damaged from excessive heat. Synthetic ATF is still a good idea with an external cooler, because the viscosity remains constant to lower temps than conventional ATF. This is a factor because it takes longer for the fluid to come up to normal temp with the external cooler. Cold, thick, conventional fluid is hard on a cold transmission.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes, I could see that. Your trans (or engine) won't run any cooler with synthetic but it could run smoother when cold.

    Automatic transmissions are basically "controlled bleeding" with hydraulics, so the viscosity and type of fluid is important...it's more than just a lubricant, the oil is a form of "transmission" itself.

    I have a trans cooler on my older Benz, and it still has the original transmision after 200K miles.
  • markd7markd7 Member Posts: 8
    a replacement oil pan with a drain plug (and maybe even an extra bit of capacity) for a 1997 Ford Taurus? It appears that the transmission has a less than sterling reputation and the ability to change the fluid annually, cheaply, might help it to at least a normal life. It's only got 39K on it with no problems and I'm hoping for 100K/10 years.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Why would all the transmission manufactures in the world under cool their units?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    You can buy a drain plug kit most anywhere and install it your self.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Since the origional owners never keep most cars beyond the warranty, why would a manufacturer be concerned with extra longevity. It is costing them money to have a unit last much beyond 100,000 miles [a design point to minimize warranty cost on even high end lux cars].
    Domestics [with exception of GM] generally fail before this time and 200,000 mile life is an exception except in LS400 which was way over designed but they are trying to build a reputation as a better than MB and cheaper than MB car to buy and own long term.
    Even Lexus has had complaints by dealers that the transmission last too long and they are losing money in their repair facilities.
    Unfortunately even Lexus techs must be paid or they will find a brand with lots of failures where they can make a living.
    A fine balancing act you can't make a car to good or you won't sell new ones!
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    It couldn't hurt to go with say Mobil 1 or maybe even better Red Line synthetic fluid. I have it in one of my Corsicas ('92) the vehicle has 127K and the syn has been used since 50K. It operates perfectly. I'm not saying that it is the silver bullet. Like was said earlier GM builds a good auto trans now (after the auto trans debacles of the 80's)
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Did you know that transmission problems before 1973 were minimized by the use of Sperm Whale Oil?

    That oil transmited heatand kept the transmission oil from forming acid and varnishes. There is now a substitute called Lubegard (www.lubegard.com)developed in conjunction with the government after 20 years of research. It is made from vegitable oils It is very slippery, and temperature reductions are impressive. It also reduces acid, This is RECOMMENDED by auto manufacturers, and more important does not have any FTC claims against it. See the site above, but I have also seen other auto manufacturer's recommendations.

    On a Ford Transmission, I would change the fluid every year at a transmission specialist shop, and add the lubegard. You will notice significant changes, or rather a reduction of problems.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    for being skeptical, but before I use sperm whale oil I'll use Mobil 1, Redline or Amsoil Syn ATF. Which I have. Fords and Sperm oil probably go together LOL.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Actually, he's right. As a member of ATRA (Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association), allow me to introduce you to the pro's who use it every day:


    http://www.atra-gears.com/

  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    It is my understanding Whale Oil was a prime ingredent in GM additive for Posi-trac read ends.

    Never heard of it being used in transmissions.

    And yes, they stopped using it some time ago. The replacement comes from tumbleweeds or some such desert 'weed' that they found also has superior lubricating capibilities.

    The 'sperm oil' was also extensively used in machine shops to lube parts being milled.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Yep. Was used as a friction modifier in GM Positraction and other manufacturers' limited slip differentials, as fine grade machine oil, and extensively in the cosmetics industry. A worldwide ban on the harvesting of sperm whales as an endangered species in 1974? (all but USSR and Japan initially complied) forced manufacturers to find other, generally inferior, substitutes. To date none have met the performance of the original oil rendered from sperm whale blubber.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I assume that Dextron III has all the additives in it that are required for the transmision (even if it does not come up to the quality of blubber).I am not a fan of additives in lubricants,(Prolong, slick 50, et. all)

    But is there something that will help auto-trans in terms of additives???

    Like I said I'm using Mobil 1 syn because I don't know of anything better. Auto trans deserve the best lub they can get.
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