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Toyota 4WD systems explained
I frequently get asked questions about various 4 wheel drive system on Toyota products. In the past, I replied on an individual basis. Finally, I wrote a fairly comprehensive piece on it but felt it was too long to post here. I have broken this up into four parts. The first is a list of terms and definitions. Next is an explanation of the Active-Track system on the Sequoia, Land Cruiser and 4Runner. Next is conventional 4WD systems like the Tundra and Tacoma have. Finally is a discussion of the AWD of the Highlander and RAV4.
I hope this is helpful.
I hope this is helpful.
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So in a 99 0r 00 RX300, absent LSD or some inertia, any one of the four wheels having lost traction and you don't GO! Add LSD and now you have a vehicle that only gets stuck if either front wheel loses traction or both rear wheels.
All RX300s have a viscous, fluid, clutch between the center differential output and the rear driveline. You can think of this as a rubber band drive belt with the exception that the more tension you place on the rubber band the harder and harder it gets to stretch.
As you can see, if all four wheels have good traction then the rear wheels will most readily turn at the same rate as the directly driven front wheels. But, are they turning at an equal rate due to traction with the roadbed or due to "rubber band drive tension". Since in this example, and only for this example, all four wheels have traction it really doesn't matter how or what is driving the rear wheels. Lexus can honestly claim that in this circumstance each wheel is getting 25% (50% to the front and 50% toi the rear) of the engine torque and no one can ever prove otherwise
Viscous Clutch: I'va always been puzzled by the "fact" that science has come up with a fluid that increases its viscosity as it is heated. I have now come to believe that what is actually happening is that the fluid's "effective" viscosity increases, not its actual viscosity.
A viscous clutch is composed of two sets of interspersed clutch plates, one set attached to the "input" shaft and the other to the "output" shaft, which are immersed in a fluid in a sealed container. Almost all fluids will expand their volume with increases in temperature, and the silicon fluid in a viscous clutch is specually formulated to increase its volume dramatically with even slight increases in temperature.
Center Differential: A devise that allows the power to be split between the front and rear in different amounts.
Front or Rear Differential: A devise that splits power to the right or left side of the vehicle. It looks like a ball when viewed from the rear.
Open Differential: A differential that is very rugged and reliable that splits power 50-50 but if one wheel begins to slip, power is routed only to that wheel.
Limited Slip Differential (LSD): A differential that splits power 50-50 but if one wheel begins to slip, power is routed to the other wheel. This is accomplished in one of two ways: Either by a series of clutches or multiple plates encased in a heavy oil. The clutch type needs rebuilt somewhere between 60K and 100K miles. When the clutches fail, you will have no indication of it unless you become stuck.
Rear Locking Differential: A push button mechanism that sends a worm gear into the rear differential to physically lock the axle together. NEVER use this on dry pavement.
Center Differential lock: On certain vehicles, you can lock the center differential, which creates the effect of a transfer case. NEVER use this on dry pavement.
Traction control (TRACS): A system that uses your ABS sensors to detect wheel slip. TRACS operates in one of three different ways. It can either apply brakes to the wheel that is slipping, it can reduce the engine RPMs to slow down the wheels or it can do both. In any case, by reducing wheel spin, forward movement is accomplished, albeit slow and controlled.
Vehicle Skid Control (VSC): A lateral skid sensor that detects understeer or oversteer. If you begin to skid sideways, one, two or three corners of the vehicle have brakes applied and throttle is adjusted to get you moving in the direction the steering wheel is turned.
Two Speed Transfer Case: Gives one the ability to gear the vehicle down for maximum pulling power. Works best with a transfer case or locked center differential.
Part Time 4WD: This generally refers to a system that allows the use of the vehicle in 2 wheel drive. Prior to the Active Trac system, a part time system meant a transfer case type system.
AWD, All-Trac, Full time 4WD: These terms refer to a 4WD system that is always engaged. It implies the use of a center differential rather than a transfer case. The A-Trac system defies this as a simple definition now.
These systems operate in essentially the same way with a few exceptions. When engaged, you have three open differentials working for you (front, rear and center). Open differentials are extremely reliable and require very little maintenance. If you have equal traction at all 4 wheels, power is evenly divided between them all. If one wheel begins to slip, the open differentials begin to send all available power to that one wheel. Normally, this would be very bad. This is when a traction control system (TRACS) takes over. TRACS, applies brakes selectively to a slipping wheel. This braking action literally fools the differentials into sending power everywhere except the slipping wheel.
When you are in 2WD (in the Sequoia and Runner), you still have traction control working for you. Obviously, this only will send power left to right but this is better than nothing. There is one thing to be careful of in this condition. When you are in 2-wheel drive, there is a second part of the TRACS that can be hazardous if you are not paying attention. This is the engine speed limiter. This combines the braking action of TRACS with a rev limiter. Your engine speed will be cut back to 1500 to 2400 RPM. This allows for controlled forward movement but it will be slow. The danger with this is if it engages when you are trying to pull into fast moving traffic. This rev limiter only operates in the 2WD mode, so if you know you have any reduced traction, make sure you are in 4WD.
On all three vehicles, you have the option of locking the center differential. It is rare that anybody would ever need to do this. On the Land Cruiser and 4Runner, this is accomplished by pushing a button on your dash. On the Sequoia, you shift into 4 wheel low and shift the transmission into “L”. This turns off the TRACS computer and the VSC system. The vehicle is now in a conventional 4WD mode. All 4x4 Toyota trucks have operated in this condition. You should not ever use this mode on dry pavement as you will damage the drive system and tires.
The other part of this system is the VSC or vehicle skid control. VSC will selectively apply brakes and throttle to prevent understeer or oversteer. It works in both 2 and 4 wheel drive. This is a rather amazing system and does an incredible job of giving the driver control of the vehicle. Understeer is responsible for a large number of SUV rollovers and oversteer is very common on icy surfaces. The Sequoia will allow you to turn off the VSC but only when you are in 4WD. The only reason to turn this off is if you are off road and want to be able to slide sideways. On the Runner and Land Cruiser, the VSC and TRACS are disabled when you lock the center differential.
The Land Cruiser is always in the 4WD mode. The 4Runner and Sequoia can be used in either 4WD or 2WD. It is safe to leave either in the 4WD mode at all times. You will loose a bit of fuel economy, but will handle better. Unexpected loose gravel and slippery surfaces will not be a problem.
To engage the 4WD system on the Runner and Sequoia, press the button. The green and amber lights will flash on you dash. While it is flashing, the system has not fully engaged and you should avoid sharp corners at this time. If you are accelerating up a hill, these lights will continue to flash. If this happens, take your foot off the gas for a moment and tap the brake. This gives the differential a chance to engage fully into the 4WD mode. The same procedure applies to disengaging the system.
To get into 4WD low, you must first be in 4WD. Stop the truck and place the transmission in neutral. Now, move the floor shifter forward to the low range. This takes a firm hand. This mode is only to be used to remove yourself from a very difficult situation. Once you are unstuck, shift back into the high gear range.
With this part time system, you can engage it up to 62 MPH (50 MPH if you don’t have a push button system) but it really isn’t appropriate to drive it at this speed. Because the front and rear axles are turning at exactly the same speed, you can damage the system on dry pavement. This system is only appropriate for more severe conditions.
The advantages to this type of 4WD are simplicity and speed of engagement. You are not relying on brake sensors for your 4WD system and it should be more rugged. Also, unlike the Sequoia and 4Runner, the system engages the moment you shift into 4WD. The other models take several seconds and feet to engage.
It is possible to become stuck with this system. This is because of the open front and rear differentials. If both right tires were on ice, all power would be routed to these wheels. This is a fairly unlikely occurrence on a light duty vehicle like these. On the Highlander, you can get VSC, which includes traction control. If the right wheel begins to slip, brakes are applied to this wheel and power is sent to the left. On the 4WD model, there is no rev limiter associated with the traction control.
Leo
tbird45 "Toyota 4Runner" Jun 4, 2001 8:03pm
Drew
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Leo
If you are talking about an older one, they had a conventional part time system. Read back to the section here that discusses the Tundra and Tacoma systems. That should answer your questions.
Thanks for all your informative posts.
JM
Leo
Leo
On the awd highlander there is a sticker on the center differential that states 85w-90w , would it be ok to use mobile 1 syn 75w-90w gear oil? you mention that when the front wheels spin faster than the rear, the heavy liquid firms up. so should a 75-140 be better?
thanks
tc
A friend took his 2000 Montero out into a field to to take his son to a well-stocked pond to do some fishing. Here in Central Ohio, we have gotten 8-9 inches of rain in the last few weeks. All went well for him until he got stock in a low area that quickly turned into a mud hole. He called me and I came over with my tow chain. As I went off the pavement, I continued to stay in 4WD-H mode and easily travel 1 mile back into the field over rolling hills and muddy trails. I place the TL into 4WD-L (after stopping the Cruiser and placing the sifter into "N", I moved the 4WD sifter into the "L" position.) and pulled his Montero out. I then followed him back towards the road. Here is where the problem arose - we needed to go down through a gully that was mud on both sides (down into the gully as well as back up on to "normal ground)and the low point of the gully was 10-12 inches of thick mud. Believe it or not, the Montero went down and up and over to the "dry" side with no problems. The TL and I (still in 4WD-L mode)followed him at a safe distance. All went well until I started to spin the right front wheel. I sat there 1/2 way up the side and started to slide into some trees. I stopped and backed down into the gully until I reached the flat muddy area at the bottom and then tried again - still no luck. Finally, I backed down and turned off the VSC via the dash button, placed the transmission into "N", shifted the 4WD into "H" and hit the gas - up and over I went. My questions are:
(1) What should I have differently so as to avoid the mess that I got into;
(2) under what conditions do I use the 4WD-L mode and when should I ever have to turn off the VSC system?
The TLC owners mannual is useless from this perspective.
Thanks for your time and assistance.
As to when to turn off the VSC (by locking the center differential), this is only a good idea when you need to be able to slip laterally. Driving in sand is a good example of when this works best. I would suspect that you would have been able to get out of the mud with the differential unlocked and the VSC functional. I wasn't there, but it sounds like you handled it well.
Drew
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I have three instruments, the 4H N 4L shifter, the locking differential knob on the left of the steering wheel, and the differential button in the main controls near the air conditioning buttons. Which controls which?
As for the center and rear locker, again unless you are doing some fairly serious off roading, don't mess with them. If you are, send me an e-mail at sclifford@kjtoyota.com and I'll go into it further.
Thanks for your indulgence!
Here's something that may help you to decide.
http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/tractionturn2.html
http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/need.html
Drew
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Assuming what I've said is right, then it seems that it would take some work to get the HL stuck. I know very little about driving in "off-road" conditions, and would like to know if I am likely to get stuck in say mud of different depths, snow, etc. Also, is it ok to drive my HL in off road conditions so long as I don't encounter serious ground clearance obstacles? (i.e. are the suspension and other components "tough" enough to handle rough but not abusive terrain?)
Thanks
My '99 is coming up on 60,000 miles - what sort of maintenance should I look into for the AWD or LSD?
What I was wondering was what sort of maintenance considerations should I take into account for my AWD with the LSD? Is there any special needs for maintenance at 60,000 miles because of the AWD and LSD?
Many thanks!
Thanks again for all the informative postings. My question, which by implication you may have already answered, is whether the sequoia's transmission must be in "L" to engage 4wd low? The reason I ask is that you imply that 4wd low is essentially designed only to extricate the vehicle from a bad situation. My experience with 4wd was with a 76 LC, the ultimate in conventional 4wd as you say, in Colorado, and I rarely ventured off road without 4wd low engaged simply for the ability to handle steep grades. I rarely got stuck, but I was always going uphill. I love the idea of the 3 open miff's saving wear and tear with the tracs computer easing any potential bog downs, but can it work in 4wd low. (trans in "D" ?) Thanks for any info.
Great user name by the way.
Thanks for your excellent explanations on these systems. You mentioned that the HL center diff maintains (with the transfer case) a 50-50 split between front and rear. If there is Front slip then the viscous coupling thickens and routes more power to the rear.
Two questions: 1) Can the opposite happen? That is, if there is rear wheel slippage, can power be transfered to the front so that the front wheels are getting more than 50%?
2)Does the system work when the transmission is placed in Reverse?
Thanks!
I'm not positive on the answer to number 2, but I don't see why it wouldn't. The viscous coupling center differential is pretty simple and if one drive shaft begins to spin more than the other, power is transferred. I don't see why direction would impact that.
Everything is going along with power to the front and rear wheels until one of the rear wheels begins to slip... Does the power then move forward to the front wheels?
At what point does the transfer stop? When there's no longer any wheel slippage?
I apologize if I sound completely ignorant on this, but I am in a way and merely want to understand what my RX is doing in conditions when the transfer occurs. Thanks!
Good job on helping folks out on the Toyota systems. I found that the dealers couldnt even explain it and they go to the training.
I would disagree on something you said in an earlier post. It is not the unibody that would limit the HL. It is suspension design, one aspect of which is the ground clearence you mention.
Then again, I hope nobody is considering much off roading in the HL anyway. So my point is, the highlander should do fine for its intended purpose just as the whole line of Toyota products seem to do.
The trick is to figure out what you want to do then find the SUV to match it.
My wife was driving my '99 SR-5 through Kentucky on I-75 while I slept in the back. It rained hard and fast and she hit a puddle and hydroplaned at about 55 mph. I awoke and saw her turning into the skid but knew she wasn't going to be able to correct it. We ended up rolling over 3 times, landing back on the wheels. Luckily we walked away from it. She doesn't drive my truck very often and isn't familiar with it's handling. Could this have been prevented if this vehicle was equipped with VSC and in 4WD?
Goto LexusSafety.com for good explanations of Toyota active and passive safety systems.
Thanks for your time.
On another note, unless you often have loose gravel at the end of your driveway, I'm not sure I would be overly concerned about the rev limiter. If it rains, hit the 4WD button. If you are on a dirt road, hit the 4WD button. Once you are on a major road, turn it off. If this is too much hassle, just leave it on all the time.
Many thanks for your time.
Drew
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So what's my question? With high water and gravel, what's the best setting on a Sequoia? 4H with gearshift in second? 4L with gearshift in second? 4L all the way in Low? (Seemed like overkill.)
My username says it all---I'm just learning how to do this stuff.
I don't understand why the RX 300 got stuck. Shouldn't the viscous coupling in the center diff thicken and kick in to engage the rear wheels?
Les
Here is a picture for a stuck AWD RX300. Notice the front wheels spinning but the rear wheels stationary. The ramp simulates a slight uphill snow/ice covered grade.
Drew
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