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Comments
While I am sure that all of us are well aware of the potential for damage to the driveline in locked mode and high traction conditions, how many are aware of the problem with ABS?
Most, if not all, Anti-lock Brake systems are automatically disabled when the center diff'l is locked. If the rotation rate of the front driveline is "locked" to the rotation rate of the rear driveline then the front ABS can no longer function strictly independent of the rear ABS.
Potentially resulting in loss of control during severe or hard braking.
I suspect that to be one of the reasons Toyota is restricting the use of "hard" diff'l locking to 4lo and first gear only. One cannot need the brakes at a very severe level if no "speed" can be attained.
this has some good explanations about how and why. it's good reading and should help clear up some of this techno babble that's been going on
You can go to Lo range WITHOUT locking the center diff.
Also, unless altered aftermarket, as Steelcruiser has discussed before, the center diff is always locked in 4LO. Apparently that feature can be disabled by unhooking one connection on the transmission or transfer case.
AccessCab and DoubleCab - not identical from the B-pillar forward, correct?
WHY?? Isn't it more expensive for Toyota to make the DoubleCab dimensionally different?
The "conversion" is pretty straight forward if you'd like to install this option.
Dropped by the dealer today and read the 2004 4runner owners manual. Nothing I've seen here adequately explains.
Article is at http://drive.fairfax.com.au/content-new/news/general/2004/06/04/F- - FXIOPX61VD.html
Quote:
"However, the middle-of-the-range model tested, the CVX, had optional electronic stability and traction controls that can't be shut down. The result is that when confronted with slippery or sandy terrain with which its electronics can't cope, it simply stops.
There are times when a bit of wheelspin is handy. Our Kluger refused to go up a steep test hill (the Widowmaker, near Alice Springs) which both the Territory and the Adventra were able to climb."
The 04 RX no longer has a viscous clutch, just three open diff'ls and a TRAC system which uses moderate or modulated brake application on the slipping wheel(s) to prevent wheelspin and thereby apportion engine torque to the wheel(s) with traction. If the driver don't react quickly to prevent "over-revving" the engine then the system will dethrottle the engine within a few seconds.
I have come to believe that the TRAC brake apportioning system has about a 45 to 60 second timeout to prevent the ABS pumpmotor from over-heating and burning out.
If this were a Sequoia I would advise you to simply slip it into 4lo and drive away. But if your Au HL has ther same drivetrain as the US 04 RX then you're simply stuck.
Or like me you can put 45mm wheel spacers all around, allowing 17x8 wheels and 235/65-17 tires and then you can use snowchains SAFELY on the rear only.
Toyota tells us under "CAUTION", first, that greater traction on the front than the rear can lead to loss of control, and then they advise us to us snowchains ONLY on the front.
Without the spacers snowchains cannot be used on the rear due to tight suspension clearance between the tire and strut.
In the past I have advised posters to disable the ABS pumpmotor to prevent the brake apportioning but I haven't yet any feedback as to whether this also prevents the dethrottling.
And the ABS light does not come on (verifying that ABS is disabled) until the rear differential is locked via the optional electronic switch. My manual verifies this. Therefore, even with the center differential locked in both 4 HI and 4 LO, the ABS is functioning on my 99 LC.
The reason for ABS being disabled with the center diff'l locked is because otherwise the vehicle would be highly subject to loss of control.
The front wheels/tires expend ~70% of the braking HP, which means they rotate significantly slower than the rear, during braking at the level at which ABS would be useful.
If the center Diff'l is locked then the rear driveline must turn at the same rate as the front driveline. ABS cannot be effective at the rear if the slower turning front wheels are dictating rotational rate.
Some vehicles, mostly the ones with an electrically controlled AWD system, simply release the clutch which locks/unlocks the center diff'l during braking. Another approach is the way the Chrysler T&C AWD system works. The rear driveline has an integral over-running clutch so that the rear wheels can "over-run" the fronts during braking.
4WD vehicles which use a transfer case (for LOW gear ranges) typically use a dog clutch to lock the center diff'l. Dog clutches almost always take a few, if not many, revolutions of the driveline to engage or disengage, not quick enough to release effectively during braking.
But please be aware that you vehicle may have an over-running clutch or some other method of dealing with the problem.
Just a guess.
These posts are from the Landcruiser board:
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#2844 of 3807 Best Free Offroad Mod for 100 Series by fj100 Jun 30, 2003 (2:22 pm)
Hey guys,
The best FREE off road mod for the 80 or 100 series is having a driver selectable center diff lock. Go under the truck, unplug one wire on top of the transfer case, tape up the end of the wire and tape up the connector on the transfer case.
This mod allows the driver to select center diff lock in high range or low range. In low range with the center diff unlocked, the vehicle turning radius is just like normal. This is crucial in tight offroad spots with these large vehicles.
2 Notes
1. Do not forget to engage the cdl when in normal low range situations.
2. If your 80 series did not come with cdl button, it can easily be added. The switch is $50 bucks and the install takes about 10 minutes, just make sure you tape up the end of your flathead screwdriver before prying the dash apart.
Later,
Andrew
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#2845 of 3807 Center diff lock by steelcruiser Jun 30, 2003 (2:28 pm)
This is std on my ('02) 100. Didn't have this feature on my ('94) 80 though. It's a great feature.
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#2846 of 3807 gear lube by bryan28 Jun 30, 2003 (4:00 pm)
thanks for the tip! It looks like I have to pull the plastic under engine cover for the front. Thanks again, Bryan
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Anybody confused yet?
Hank
and yes I know that from experience! : )
Just scout out the corner before you go into it!
2. some people say that it causes damage when it is not needed but locked, this is untrue unless you are wheeling on a surface with alot of traction i.e. oiled gravel ect. but in those cases there is not point in having it locked anyway.
But yes the lockers should be engaged before getting stuck, if their locked then you might just power through what you normally would get stuck in, therefore saving time, energy, and possibly the use of a winch.
I can believe that the connection to the lever would be more robust and reliable than the electric shift connection.
Oftentimes the vehicle must be moved forward or backward very slowly to allow the splines to align and be driven "home".
PB electronics to do all of that automatically would get to be pretty complex.
For most owners the low range is used so rarely that it isn't worth the cost to the manufacturer to add synchomesh or other addaptions to overcome the nuisance factor.
Toyota is very glad you think so....
SUV for Beach Sand
Steve, Host