Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rugby65rugby65 Member Posts: 81
    My 03 HL V6 shakes a little at stop signs when the air conditioner cycles on and off. If you take the transmission out of drive and put it in neutral the RPM's will rise and take care of the extra load the air conditioner is calling for.

    Some vehicle's have over come this problem by the computer automatically raising the rpm's as the air cycles on and off. I have heard this while driving other brands of cars.

    I think the reason this is so noticeable is the design of the motor mounts on the high lander. In a front end crash the motor mounts brake away so the engine doesn't get shoved through the fire wall and injures the driver.
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    Thanks for your input, it made more sense than the babble I get from a Toyota service manager. The vibration is annoying to me because there is a defect that is not going to be resolved. Every time I come to a stop light I hope it it turns green FAST!!!
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    I have a Limited V6 AWD with the Auto Temperature Climate Control. I operate the system in Maunual Mode 95% of the time. One thing that I have noticed and don't understand is that the recirculate button lights up in warmer weather with the compressor off. I simply press the button to change the mode to fresh air, but why does it start in the recirculate mode? Any ideas?
  • bertdabertda Member Posts: 2
    I've read the posts including #1132 regarding the tow package trailer wiring. I'm still unable to find the "canister by the gas tank" where the wiring is located. Has anyone found it yet? Is it on the driver or passage side; front or rear of gas tank? I have a 2004 HL limited with 3rd row seating. I understand I need to purchase an additional wiring harness. I need help finding the wiring.
  • eenglisheenglish Member Posts: 22
    I had posted this question a while back but didn't get any responses. Now that people have more miles on their 2002's perhaps someone has run into this.

    When I first drive my 2002 V6 and I go over the first few bumps, I hear some kind of moderate noise from the rear. It sounds like the sound you would get if you had a bad shock.

    After going over a few bumps more, this goes away (like a few hundred feet). If I stop and let it sit a while it happens again. It sounds like it's the right rear but I can't tell for sure. I'll have to ride in back and ask my wife to drive.

    The dealer says that this is normal and has something to do with the brakes setting.
    There have been a few threads here where people have been complaining of noises going over bumps on the highway but I have never heard this.

    If I put one foot on the brake and the other on the gas, it seems to be less but it still seems to be there.

    Has anyone noticed this?
  • bikerjohnbikerjohn Member Posts: 52
    The outside temperature reading on my 2002 limited has intermittent problems. Sometimes it will take a good 1/2 hour of driving before it shows the correct temperature. After that 1st 1/2 hour, it seems to be correct the rest of the day.

    Last Saturday & Sunday, the temperature gauge read 73 when I pulled out of the garage, even though it was in the high 80s & low 90s. After about 10 minutes of driving it began to very slowly inch up, but took almost 30 minutes until it was accurate.

    Has anyone else had this problem, or know how to fix it?
  • apopapop Member Posts: 16
    You will need to purchase P/N 00016-48205-01 '04 Highlander wire harness ($38)from your dealer. The two rearmost side panels and the panel running across the very rear (interior) of the car will have to come off. The harness plugs into the turn & stop lamp sockets and runs out through a prexisting hole in the drivers' side rear fender area. If you're at all handy, it's no big deal.
  • lamontbondlamontbond Member Posts: 15
    firstly, the moderator will not let us start our own thread on the issue unless we have enough complaints. SO i would like to encourage everyone that has the problem to post something.

    second, with regard to your solution about obtaining records of how many HL owners complained about the problem, you should contact a lawyer before going to arbitration, I think you can make a good argument that the information is discoverable which means toyota is required to give over the information.

    as to your third suggestion of putting notes on people's cars, I think it is a little overboard but worth a shot. The problem is that there aren't enough owners that look on the internet and i think that this site is not very user friendly.
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    Edward - The noise sounds like it might be coming from a right rear inner seal that needs lubrication and/or replacing. I had that problem with my 2002 about two years ago and the dealer diagnosed and fixed under warranty right away. I heard the noise only when we started moving and it sounded like a far away siren. Several others at that time had the same problem. You might want to do a search on this forum for 2 yr old postings to get more info.
  • eenglisheenglish Member Posts: 22
    Carlos,
    Thanks for the suggestion. I already had the inner seal replaced. I had forgotten about that. Perhaps they messed up something when they did the repair. I'll have them check this on my next service.
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    The Homelink on the HL is a pain to set but once set-up it works great. Make sure to clear the system first! Then, set the handheld remote second. Once the computer blinks fast, set the button again to your electric opener. It took me forever because the instructions in the book are horribly hard to understand.

    KOHO
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    There is no way I know of to change this by yourself. I to had my setting changed so that one push on the unlock button opened all the doors at once. I went to three dealers and the first two said this can't be programmed on my 2004 HL. This was after they tried for an hour. The third dealer made the change in about 5 minutes at the most. It did cost me $40.00. Worth every penny.

    KOHO
  • oldmanoldman Member Posts: 35
    Somebody earlier asked about minimum brake lining thickness calling for replacement of pads. That number, in the industry, is 2mm of friction material is the minimum, if memory serves.

    How many 04 HL v6 drivers have experienced excessive tire roaring and cupping? If I don't rotate every 4500 miles, the noise gets unbearable. The root cause is excessive toe in settings. Do we have to ask re-set to zero toe to get rid of this stupid problem??? My Land Cruiser can run 10K without a rotation, yet no cupping or noise develipos at all. This is just stupid!!
  • loucapriloucapri Member Posts: 214
    Yes, it's a pain in the butt to set the homelink. On the other hand, once you have it set, it works great. I remembered spending $30.00 for an additional remote for my other car just few months ago before I traded it for the HL. Now I feel like every car should have homelink (or something like that) so we don't need to clip the remote opener on the visor.
    Now the other problem is what can I do with the other 2 buttons? Maybe I will go check out some light switch that support homelink
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    I thought it was a breeze to set the homelink system. Took me all of 5 minutes including getting the ladder. Of course I have set this system in two prior cars so that might be a factor. Once you have it, you'll always want it.
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    v6 2 w 2 wh drive base model. Has a bad brake vibration at 40 - 60 mph like on freeway. not the usual side to side shake that you get with warped rotors and feel in the wheel but like when you mash on the brake you feel as if you are on a rough road. first 3 times salesman in back of car said he could not feel the vibration. this car made in japan 12/03.
    my wife inf ront seat said I can feel it.
    finally salesman said maybe it was rust on the brakes (rotors?) and it would "go away"
    car had 32 miles on it.
    whats causing this - really severe vibration. Icaught his eye in mirror and asked have you seen this before? he said yes
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    Re: My Posting #1291. If the outside temperature exceeds the inside temperature on the display panel, the vent or air conditioning always starts in the recirculate mode. Is this normal? I have a 2004 Limited AWD V6. I am asking for advice before approaching the dealer. It starts in the recirculate mode if the compressor is on or not. I simply press the recirculate button to default to fresh air, but I don't see why it should always start in the recirculate mode. Anyone else notice this?
    Thanks
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If the outside temperature is above a certain level when the engine is started the system will ALWAYS go to recirculate mode, presumably until the cabin cools.

    The flaw goes all the way back to the 91 LS at least.

    I simply remember to reach over and change it to fresh each and every time.

    Accoring to Lexus it works that way intentionally in order to cool the interior quickly. Most folks know that the quickest way to do that is to FLUSH the hot air from the interior and even Lexus advises lowering the rear windows to help in this. While simultaneously chan ging the system to recirculate to TRAP that air.

    WEIRD!
  • mccannrmccannr Member Posts: 13
    In my case the 20 amp fuse was missing from the panel, so even with the wiring hooked up there would have been no circuit. (I am one of the owners of an 04 with the "mulroney sticker" that says I paid for trailer prewiring.)
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    Thanks for the info. on the Highlander recirculate mode. This is the first Toyota that I have owned with the auto. temperature control and I agree WEIRD is the right word.
  • oldmanoldman Member Posts: 35
    I like Toyota but....
    04 v6 HL with howling tires and noisy blower on lowest speed. These two flaws can ruin the driving experience of an otherwise good machine. Suspension adjustment must be junk or flimsy. No thought to control NVH with noisy blower. If this is the best of Japan, they are finished.
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    I had both front mudguards replaced today, they were both cracked in the same place. On 4/21/04 I went to the dealer for replacement and the service mgr. said that mudguards are not a warrantied part. His reasoning was that they are subject to be damaged by road objects.

    To make a long story short, I called Toyota INC. the same day about the problem and within four hours I received a call from same service manager. He said that Toyota told him to replace the mudguards. To be sure I was shocked by the fast customer service provided by Toyota. That's why they are #1 and want to stay there.
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    I just received a recall notice that affects certain 2001 to 2004 models. It relates to the rear child protection locks. It says that if the doors are closed with excessive force there is a possibility that the lock lever may come into contact with the vehicle body due to insufficient clearance. As a result the protection lock lever could move from the locked position to the unlocked position. The driver would be unaware of this happening.
    Just thought I would let my fellow Highlander owners know of the problem.
  • apopapop Member Posts: 16
    The Toyota harness for the '04 that I referred to piggy backs on and gets it power from the tail light and stop light sockets so it requires no additional power. I think the 20 amp fuse socket is a throwback to previous HL model years.
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    for the $160 for the "to" option you get a wire(s) that run the stop and turn and running trailer lights?
    thats it - just the wire?.
  • apopapop Member Posts: 16
    NO NO NO!

    You hopefully get as per the brochure and sticker: upgraded radiator, transmission oil cooler, 130-amp alternator and trailer prewiring, 3,500-lb. towing capacity, engine oil cooler, 160-watt fan coupling and power steering oil cooler.

    The trailer prewiring is not there. Hopefully the other items listed are there. Toyota wrote me back and denied my claim for reimbursement. I plan to take it higher up the ladder.

    You have to buy the wiring harness from the Toyota dealer for an additional $38. If you're handy you can install it yourself. If the dealer does it, he will soak you for the labor charge as well.
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    is one of the Highlander options that is really worth the money, even if you never do any towing, because of the upgrades mentioned above. It's too bad there is a discrepancy about whether the wiring harness is included or not since that creates customer problems from an otherwide excellent option.
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    Can anyone give me information on changing the cabin pollen filter on a '01 Limited AWD V6? First question is, am I correct in assuming I have one? Don't remember seeing mention of filter in literature when new, but can't imagine that would be an option on the Limited and I know the pollen filter exists (about $23 on-line). If someone has changed one of these, I would appreciate some guidance.
  • shl72953shl72953 Member Posts: 53
    I also have a 2001 V6 LTD and had to purchase the cabin filter as an option. The service manager changes it every 6000 miles so I don't actually know much about it except you get to it through the glove box.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    My 2001 did not come with one, but it's an early 2001, purchased in March. I'm told the later 2001s came with them. If you don't have one, I think you have to buy the holder and the filter. It's in front of the glovebox, you have to squeeze the sides of the box or some such thing to get it to rotate toward the floor out of the way.
  • superkid168superkid168 Member Posts: 2
    Since I have my 2003 HL V6 AWD, I had problem with the fuel gauge sending unit/sensor twice..when I filled up the tank, the fuel gauge still shows only 3/4 full...The dealer just replaced the unit 2 months ago and the problem happened again 2 days ago. Does any one have the similar problem??
  • superkid168superkid168 Member Posts: 2
    Does any one still have the instruction on how to program the keyless remote to have one push to unlock all doors?

    Thanks in Advance!

    superkid168
  • bertdabertda Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone had the dealer install the trailer hitch on their 2004 HL w/3rd row seats with the tow package? On the passenger side, does it go over or under the tail pipe? After market hitches (Hidden Hitch & Draw-tie) go under. So I was wondering what the Toyota hitch looks like. My local dealer does not install these hitches, they send you to a trailer place. They do not have any hitches for me to look at. After I install the hitch, the trailer wiring is next! After reading these messages, I guess I'm in for some fun.
  • dominor5dominor5 Member Posts: 58
    The 2001s didn't come with the cabin (pollen) filter, but you can certainly install one. Purchase one from your dealer or from an online vendor like brandsport.com. You open the glovebox and push on the sides 'til the rubber stoppers clear; the glovebox goes all the way down and you'll now have enough clearance to the filter compartment. The filter comes with the holder--remove the compartment cover and insert as directed on the filter holder. That's pretty much it.
  • hrguyhrguy Member Posts: 5
    Bought 04 LTD V6 AWD w/3rd row seats,from Toyota Knoxville with the tow pkg and "drop hitch receiver". I got everything needed except the actual ball and the drop plate with the 2" sq. tube that slides into the 2" sq. hole in the hitch. The wiring was there (on the DRIVER side). I don't remember if the tube went over or under the exhaust on the passenger side. (Wife's car, I'll look tonight and get back to you tomorrow.)
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    To change the keyless remote so one push of the button unlocks all the doors at once, you must go to the dealer. Prepare to pay $40 - $60.00. Worth the $$$
  • 2003tls2003tls Member Posts: 100
    Just tried to move my cross bars on my roof rack. Read the instructions: turn the knobs (5 total) counter-clockwise to losen, move the cross rail, then re-tighten. Simple enough. Except when I tried, I couldn't budge the knobs at all! I even used pliers to get a better grip but they still wouldn't turn. Anyone else have this problem and have a tip? Otherwise, I am going to make the dealer loosen them up.
  • hrguyhrguy Member Posts: 5
    Bertda: Looked under Wife's car last night. The "factory hitch" loops under the muffler and connects to a plate/bracket that is bolted to the frame on the passenger side of the car. I have not yet hooked up to a trailer, so I only assume the wiring and connector on the other side of the hitch will actually work the lights. All was dealer installed. The dealer stated that they, too, usually send their cars out to a "trailer place" to install hitches, but that the 3rd row seat messes that plan up and the trailer place could not do the job. So the dealer had to use the "official" hitch. (Do not really understand, as Hidden-Hitch makes one specifically for Highlander LTD w/ 3rd row seats???)
    Maybe the problems everyone is talking about with the wiring is because the dealer is using aftermarket hitches which, of course, do not include wiring. It's a puzzle! Good luck.
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    Thank you for the information. I an familiar with the cover over the blower motor as ours falls off every 6 months or so. Easy to stick back on and seemed the cabin filter would have to go in that hole if anywhere. Glad to hear the holder comes with the filter. The local dealer's part's dept. sends you to the service writer who recommends bringing it in and they will see what can be done. Not much help on DIY jobs. I guess everyone has to make a living. Thanks again for the info.
  • hljoehljoe Member Posts: 5
    Mine were very tight! Used channel locks and towel over the knobs to protect them. Still you need someone on both sides to evenly move the rails or if by self, move little on one side then go over to other side. Make the knobs very loose.
  • 2003tls2003tls Member Posts: 100
    Thanks for the tip. I understand "Channel lock" is a brand of wrench, but what particular type of wrench did you use to loosen the bolts?
  • racerx1racerx1 Member Posts: 35
    Mine were very tight too - knobs are too small to get any leverage from your fingers/hand. I used a slip joint pliers with an old t-shirt to protect them and loosened quite easily.
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    Is there a highlander forum anywhere on the web that has Do it youself info?
    like the trailer hitch wor
  • 2003tls2003tls Member Posts: 100
    Thanks for the tips. Finally got mine loose over the weekend.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    The filter I recently bought from a local Toyota dealer DID NOT come with the tray (holder). For a 2001 without a filter installed originally, you need to purchase the tray & filter. I originally got mine from Toyotaguys.com which I think is now RomaniaToyotaParts.com)for about $25, which is coincidentally what I just paid for the filter alone. Seems a bit much now that I've seen with little filter, perhaps I'll discuss it with them when I have the child lock recall done.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    2 or 3 can be made from good furnace filters at home depot.
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    I have a new Highlander. 500 miles on it. the driver's side window makes a rather sharp clack or click noise when you lower it. It makes the noise going up or going down when the window is shut fully or if the window has been lowered down about 5 inches.
    If the window is down lower than 5 or so inches the window is silent (or like any other power window - a little thud as it changes direction - like the other 3 windows. .

    The noise is a clack noise like the arm (or whatever raises the window) is hitting the glass. Kinda a metal on glass monemtary noise

    Anyone know what this could be or how the window internal looks?
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    I tried ordering a cabin filter and bracket from my toyota dealer (he showed me the drawing with both parts under one number). Only the filter came in under a replacement number. Toyota's parts number book is messed up. I had already paid for the filter and bracket and am still waiting for a callback. If no luck, I'll go on-line (thank's for the info).
  • paulredpaulred Member Posts: 5
    I just went to pick up my Highlander and they gave me the wrong color interior. I ordered the grey (not leather) interior with the Oasis Green exterior since the lighter color interior will definitely show the dirt more.
    The dealer asked me if this was a 'deal breaker' and I said I had to think about it yet. No other offer has been made as of now.
    With the fact that I usually keep cars 8 years or more, I would have to live with it. What should I ask as compensation?
  • dominor5dominor5 Member Posts: 58
    The part # I ordered from toyotaguys.com about a year and a half ago was 88508-48020, this came came with the holder for around $25. Actually, I just received a replacement from brandsport.com and this did not come with the holder. I didn't pay attention to the part # when I ordered and it turns out to be 87139-48020 apparently just for the filter but also for around $25. No big deal, I just reused the old holder.

    Toyotaguys (now romaniatoyotaparts.com) still sells the set, but now for around $28. I don't think they offer free shipping anymore though unlike Brandsport. Yeah, this part is ridiculously priced that's why I just replaced it recently, vacuuming every 4 months or so before. You'll be amazed at how dirty this thing gets which I think makes it a necessity. If you have the patience to make the filter as Wwest mentioned, you probably should.
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